Bird 3 scooter throttle issues

Lightweight / Folding / Portable EVs - seats optional
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Jedimack23   1 µW

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Joined: Jun 20 2022 1:12am

Bird 3 scooter throttle issues

Post by Jedimack23 » Jun 20 2022 1:37am

Hello, I have a bird 3 scooter and I'm converting it to personal use. I have a brainpower 48v 500w controller in using and I've wired everything up the way I'm supposed to based on other videos I've seen and researching and learning via these forums and YouTube. However my throttle has 4 wires, it has red and black which I know is 4.3v and gnd and the yellow and blue are supposed to be my signal wires so I've been told to hook up the yellow to my white signal wire and that's it. I've tried this and I get nothing. If I hook it up to the blue wire with my white signal wire from the controller it works the opposite as it should. It runs immediately upon getting power and then if I push the throttle it shuts down. Obviously I need it to not run with no throttle and then run when I give it throttle. I also want to mention that I am able to learn it to the proper direction wth the green learning wires. Thanks in advance for all your help. I am a noob so please be patient and kind! Again thanks so much!

Jedimack23   1 µW

1 µW
Posts: 2
Joined: Jun 20 2022 1:12am

Re: Bird 3 scooter throttle issues

Post by Jedimack23 » Jun 20 2022 1:47am

One other thing. I saw somewhere someone talking about shorting k1 to k2 or something like that to reach top speed. Is that necessary? They didn't say anything like that in the YouTube videos i watched where they'd done this same mod.
Thanks so very much in advance!

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amberwolf   100 GW

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Re: Bird 3 scooter throttle issues

Post by amberwolf » Jun 20 2022 7:53pm

with system powered on and throttle black/red connected to ground/5v, but both signal wires not connected, what voltage range do you read with a voltmeter:
--black meter lead on battery negative
--red meter lead on yellow, throttle off, then up thru the whole range
--then move red meter lead to blue, throttle off, then up thru the whole range

a normal typical throttle uses only one hall sensor and a pair of magnets, so that it outputs from around 1v up when off to around 3-4v when full on.

there are two wire throttles that use two sensors, where one does the above, and the other simultaneously does the opposite.

this is a rare type, because it requires a controller that can use both signals, but it is "safer" with that kind of controller because if the controller does not read both signals correctly it won't respond at all...but a single-signal controller/throttle can have unexpected full throttle when a single wire (ground) breaks, which can be very very dangerous under the wrong conditions.

as long as the throttle you have has both signals working correctly, you can just use the signal that works the first way..but if that one isn't working, you will probably have to replace the throttle with any typical 3-wire hall sensor throttle type (there are potentiometer / pot throttles, those are not what you're after).

you can alternately use the opposing throttle signal, passed thru an inverting op-amp circuit:
(see images below)

or, if you find it's just a broken wire inside the throttle or cable or connector, you may be able to just repair that. if it is a bad sensor, you could move the sensor from the working side to the nonworking side, so that it's where the magnets are positioned to cause it to go from low voltage to high voltage instead of the opposite.
opamp6[1].gif (6.55 KiB) Viewed 102 times
opamp-opamp6[1].gif (6.55 KiB) Viewed 102 times
opamp-opamp7[1].gif (4.34 KiB) Viewed 102 times
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