Motor cut, whats going on here?

#boosted

100 mW
Joined
Jan 4, 2021
Messages
42
I'm getting a motor cut from stand still. Soon as its rolling however, it goes away. Any ideas whats happening?

75% charge, scooter is about 6 months old with only 70 miles on it. No codes are popping up on the display.

https://youtu.be/4_ecB8rzlQE
 
Possibly directly related to your voltage sag issue that you reported over here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109904
If the voltage drops low enough under load, the controller's LVC will kick in and not spin the motor.
 
amberwolf said:
Possibly directly related to your voltage sag issue that you reported over here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109904
If the voltage drops low enough under load, the controller's LVC will kick in and not spin the motor.

That was for a different scooter, but regardless its at 75% charge (50.8v) so It shouldn't be cutting out like that right? My other scooter stops the backwards momentum smoothly and then transitions to driving itself forward with no issues. And thats at 35% battery charge.
 
#boosted said:
That was for a different scooter, but regardless its at 75% charge (50.8v) so It shouldn't be cutting out like that right?
If the battery is either poorly balanced or has a problem, it could do it even from "full", if there is enough load on it.

If it only happens when at 75% or below, and not when at full, then that *really* points to a battery issue.


Battery issues (or connection problems, often enough *in* the battery) cause most of the issues that people have with EVs.

If the system will startup without a load on it (offground) but not with a load on it, then almost always it's voltage sag causing it, and that almost always comes from a battery problem.

WHen it isn't, it is connections between the batery and controller, or between controller and motor, that are either loose, damaged, or corroded, causing high enough resistance to drop a lot of voltage across them. But in high-current connections, that kind of resistance means a lot of heat, which usually makes the problem worse rapidly, and often makes it very easy to find from either the smell of heated plastic or metal, or an actual fire. When it's not quite that bad, it is still often visually obvious when examining the wiring harness due to deformed or melted plastics (connector shells, wiring insulation, etc).


But to find out what is actually the problem for your new scooter, you'll need to measure the voltage while riding, under working and non working conditions. At the least, you'll need to see the battery meter at the instant of shutoff, if it's a bar meter that reacts very quickly to changes in voltage (some don't, some do) then you should see the bars drop during the startup from a stop attempt much more than they do when it works.


ONce you report back with this info, then we can branch to checking other things from there.
 
amberwolf said:
#boosted said:
That was for a different scooter, but regardless its at 75% charge (50.8v) so It shouldn't be cutting out like that right?
If the battery is either poorly balanced or has a problem, it could do it even from "full", if there is enough load on it.

If it only happens when at 75% or below, and not when at full, then that *really* points to a battery issue.


Battery issues (or connection problems, often enough *in* the battery) cause most of the issues that people have with EVs.

If the system will startup without a load on it (offground) but not with a load on it, then almost always it's voltage sag causing it, and that almost always comes from a battery problem.

WHen it isn't, it is connections between the batery and controller, or between controller and motor, that are either loose, damaged, or corroded, causing high enough resistance to drop a lot of voltage across them. But in high-current connections, that kind of resistance means a lot of heat, which usually makes the problem worse rapidly, and often makes it very easy to find from either the smell of heated plastic or metal, or an actual fire. When it's not quite that bad, it is still often visually obvious when examining the wiring harness due to deformed or melted plastics (connector shells, wiring insulation, etc).


But to find out what is actually the problem for your new scooter, you'll need to measure the voltage while riding, under working and non working conditions. At the least, you'll need to see the battery meter at the instant of shutoff, if it's a bar meter that reacts very quickly to changes in voltage (some don't, some do) then you should see the bars drop during the startup from a stop attempt much more than they do when it works.


ONce you report back with this info, then we can branch to checking other things from there.

Thanks for the write up, very fair points. It really can only be a couple things, it does feel like a voltage cut of some sort. I dont think the wiring is bad in any way but I guess I'll have to look into it as well as the battery
 
So after doing research I found the answer here, I dont have hall sensors. My other scooter does so thats why they operate differently. Excuse my ignorance im new to PEVs :lol:
 
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