eZip 750 overvolting 24V->36V?

I have this:
http://www.amazon.com/Currie-Technologies--Zip-Electric-Scooter/dp/B004HL01S4/

The max speed is 14-15 mph with me on it (according to my phone's GPS). I would like to go faster, but not spend too much money to do so, so would like to overvolt to 36V (as opposed to 48V, where I'd have to replace the motor and throttle (I've read that 24V->36V = don't need to replace the 24V motor)).

Please confirm my choices.

I need a 36V controller (the controller on my scooter specifically says "24V" and is a 5-pin):
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=177

I need 36V battery set:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/schwinn-mongoose-gt-izip-ezip-36-volt-battery-pack.html

As the battery set will not fit inside the 24V enclosure, I would need to cut the connection between the 2-pack, and extend the wires to wherever I decide to put the 3rd battery.

I need a 36V charger:
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=17_72&product_id=68

Is that it? So just unplug the old controller, plug the new one in, plug the 36V battery set (with extended 3rd battery), and it's good?

How much faster would it go? If it's only couple MPH faster, I don't think it'd be worth the ~$170 it'll cost to upgrade this.

Thank you in advance =D

do u usually stand or sit on that scooter?
how does it ride standing?
i want to get that model for standing only,
that platform would need to be wider...

for 24v > 36v
seems like ur on the right track,
but sla is just so damn heavy..

regarding the throttles,
isn't all these throttle 5v?
and shouldn't the throttle work on all 24v/36v/48v controller??

sk8norcal said:

do u usually stand or sit on that scooter?
how does it ride standing?
i want to get that model for standing only,
that platform would need to be wider...

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I use this for commuting, so I sit. I tend to stand when I want to actually enjoy the ride, though. The seat = optional, and you can not install it if you so desire.

sk8norcal said:

for 24v > 36v
seems like ur on the right track,
but sla is just so damn heavy..

regarding the throttles,
isn't all these throttle 5v?
and shouldn't the throttle work on all 24v/36v/48v controller??

Click to expand...

I have no idea, I read on forums that you should replace the throttle if you want to go 48V. I guess it's more for safety reasons? >.>


As an update, any idea on how much faster it'll travel?

TRhe only difference in the throttles is the isiot lights. If you want to use the 24v throttle just be sure not to connect the light plug to the controller. It will work fine but not indicate the remaining voltage in your pack. IF you want that capability then you will need to replace the throttle.

Running a 24v Currie motor on 36v is pushing it so I would not use full throttle until you are up and running. Heat is your biggest problem.

Bob

dumbass said:

TRhe only difference in the throttles is the isiot lights. If you want to use the 24v throttle just be sure not to connect the light plug to the controller. It will work fine but not indicate the remaining voltage in your pack. IF you want that capability then you will need to replace the throttle.

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I see. Thank you.

dumbass said:

Running a 24v Currie motor on 36v is pushing it so I would not use full throttle until you are up and running. Heat is your biggest problem

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What do you mean "up and running"? I intend to go full speed for most of my commute (of 2.5 miles each way), and it is relatively flat ground, with one traffic light (no stop signs), so it shouldn't be an issue stressing the motor, right? >.>


Also, I'm sorry to repeat, but how much faster would this be? I really feel like a slowpoke going at ~15mph; hell bicyclists go faster than me >.>.

Bob, thx for the info on the throttle

BlueberryJam said:

As an update, any idea on how much faster it'll travel?

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guessing, maybe 3-4 mph faster,
i haven't overvolt one of these smaller motors,
but i do have a 24v and 36v scooter,
the 36v have very good torque, but its got a big 800w motor
not sure if there is performance difference between the bigger and smaller motor other than the big motor can take more heat.

one thing I like about my 24v scooter is its linear throttle response,
my 36v have a touchy throttle which i dislike, annoying if you have to ride slowly around pedestrians on sidewalks, not sure if this could be solved with a better controller.

BlueberryJam said:

What do you mean "up and running"? I intend to go full speed for most of my commute (of 2.5 miles each way), and it is relatively flat ground, with one traffic light (no stop signs), so it shouldn't be an issue stressing the motor, right? >.>

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he means don't do a full throttle fast start from stop, ease into it.

sk8norcal said:

guessing, maybe 3-4 mph faster,
i haven't overvolt one of these smaller motors,
but i do have a 24v and 36v scooter,
the 36v have very good torque, but its got a big 800w motor
not sure if there is performance difference between the bigger and smaller motor other than the big motor can take more heat.

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I see alright. Yea, was wondering since the eZip 1000 is a 36V, but travels the same speed. I guess it's because it's 1000W as opposed to 750W, so more torque, less speed?

sk8norcal said:

he means don't do a full throttle fast start from stop, ease into it.

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Gotcha; thank you for clarifying.

BlueberryJam said:

I see alright. Yea, was wondering since the eZip 1000 is a 36V, but travels the same speed. I guess it's because it's 1000W as opposed to 750W, so more torque, less speed?

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I know that on Ezip's site, they "claim" both ezip 750 and 1000 have the same top speed.

not sure if that's true, or they limit the top speed, or they have different max amp controller.

because more volts should equal more speed.

(btw, i am no expert, so take it with a grain of salt

BlueberryJam said:

dumbass said:

TRhe only difference in the throttles is the isiot lights. If you want to use the 24v throttle just be sure not to connect the light plug to the controller. It will work fine but not indicate the remaining voltage in your pack. IF you want that capability then you will need to replace the throttle.

Click to expand...

I see. Thank you.

dumbass said:

Running a 24v Currie motor on 36v is pushing it so I would not use full throttle until you are up and running. Heat is your biggest problem

Click to expand...

What do you mean "up and running"? I intend to go full speed for most of my commute (of 2.5 miles each way), and it is relatively flat ground, with one traffic light (no stop signs), so it shouldn't be an issue stressing the motor, right? >.>


Also, I'm sorry to repeat, but how much faster would this be? I really feel like a slowpoke going at ~15mph; hell bicyclists go faster than me >.>.

Click to expand...

Up and running meaning don't use full throttle at startup. Start the bike by peddling and with the motor and not full throttle. REmember as long as you don't exceed say 3/4 throttle it's the same as running at 24v. So after you get up and running (moving at a good speed) then start adding more throttle. The idea is to not load the motor anymore then you have to. As I said HEAT is what you want to avoid.

Bob

PS....I forgot...adding 33% more voltage will not add 33% more speed. If you getting 15mph now likely 18 to 20mph maxed. Keep in mind when you look for a new controller that it's not just voltage but amps too. Your 24v controller maybe 35a (840w) so do your math to be sure the amperage is what your increasing. The problem is also going to be your batteries capasity. IF the pack can't provide the amperage output the controller, throttle or motor can't do it ether.

dumbass said:

Start the bike by peddling and with the motor and not full throttle. REmember as long as you don't exceed say 3/4 throttle it's the same as running at 24v.

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FYI, this is a sit down scooter, no peddling...

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/escpa.html
both 24v/36v controllers selling here are 30A
I do see a 700w vs 900w motor for 24v..... (not sure its worth it though...)

dumbass said:

PS....I forgot...adding 33% more voltage will not add 33% more speed. If you getting 15mph now likely 18 to 20mph maxed.

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LOL really awesome statement .. . .. .33% of 15 mph is 5 then 15+5=20.

Hi guys, I am new to the forum and have some questions on this topic!

I have an ezip 750, and am not happy with the speed. I took a 12 volt 7ah battery and squished the wires between the place where the battery pack connects to the scooter. I am now running 3 12 volt batteries. Im not getting more speed, just more range, how do i use this setup to get more speed?

TxChristopher said:

dumbass said:

PS....I forgot...adding 33% more voltage will not add 33% more speed. If you getting 15mph now likely 18 to 20mph maxed.

Click to expand...

LOL really awesome statement .. . .. .33% of 15 mph is 5 then 15+5=20.

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Wow, you caught an error ... and on your very first post too. You must be so proud. The point is he can not expect an equal return of speed vs. added voltage. But I bet you knew that. Now didn't you?

Bob

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/currie-36-volt-5-pin-controller-throttle.html Controller AND throttle.

Ah, the Currie playground. You take the batteries out and you have 2 - 12v with plug connections. You get one more wire with those plugs to insert a 3rd battery. But a 3rd fullsize battery won't fit below the footboard. I'm assuming there's some protrusion with that smaller 3rd battery.

The 750w and the 900w use the same 24v controller. The 36v equivilent would be 1350w, right? They all use the same sprocket and pinion, the old 350w really struggled. These bigger scooters all claim 2,600rpm but with differing winds in the motor, so it would be a question of can you get to speed as well, carry a load as well, go uphill as well as you would with the 36v motor. If I could get my hands on the 900w and 1000w I could test all that out.

Since it's getting argued, 24v to 36v is 50% more, theoretically you get to 3,900rpm but probably not really. So a current 14mph peak might fall short of getting up to 21mph, 16mph may or may not make it to 24mph, etc. It is good to reference the exact theoretical gain rather than 'Rounding,' the difference won't be much. The multiple plugs on the throttles let you ramp up slowly on the speed, as suggested. You can't get far on these, but you might take a few minutes off the trip to work.

I remember my 350w claiming it was 40a but inside was labelled as "24v - 440w" actually passing through. So 18a? What your 24v controller REALLY passes through is a good guess. The experience I have so far with MY10## motors is they've been durable in experiments but haven't provided huge gains.

Do you have the open chain drive or the enclosed housing? I'm wondering if the enclosed is as durable. I have one of each of the 750w at the moment and since I might have some time on my hands right away it's time to get back to work.

Bossmatt123 said:

Hi guys, I am new to the forum and have some questions on this topic!

I have an ezip 750, and am not happy with the speed. I took a 12 volt 7ah battery and squished the wires between the place where the battery pack connects to the scooter. I am now running 3 12 volt batteries. Im not getting more speed, just more range, how do i use this setup to get more speed?

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First off are you sure you really wired the 3rd battery in series with the first 2? Or did you make a boo-boo and wire it in parallel with one or the existing batteries? This would explain why your speed didn't change but your range increased. On Currie EZip/Izip bikes they set the controller to not turn on over approximately 29.2v. They did this I think in 2007. They likely did it on the scooters as well. So you may not get away with increasing the voltage without a new controller.

If you do go all out and change to a 36v controller be sure to use the same size batteries. Your range is limited by the smallest or weakest battery.

Bob

Dauntless said:

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/currie-36-volt-5-pin-controller-throttle.html Controller AND throttle.

Since it's getting argued, 24v to 36v is 50% more, theoretically you get to 3,900rpm but probably not really. So a current 14mph peak might fall short of getting up to 21mph, 16mph may or may not make it to 24mph, etc. It is good to reference the exact theoretical gain rather than 'Rounding,' the difference won't be much. The multiple plugs on the throttles let you ramp up slowly on the speed, as suggested. You can't get far on these, but you might take a few minutes off the trip to work.

Click to expand...

Actually this is not true. I ran a 24v Currie EZip motor for 2 years at 48v. The original controller was a 24v 35a whereas, the replacement controller was a 48v 50a. I clocked the "free motor speed" at 510 RPMs on the 24v controller and over 1000 RPMs on the 48v controller. But in practicality the added motor speed it's self does not double the speed of the bike or scooter. You have to consider many factors preventing this like added wind resistance. The faster you go the high the power ratio needs to be. But there will still be a good increase in speed and power but also much higher battery usage due to added motor heat and of course a heavy hand on the throttle.

I agree that the "true" 36v motor while the RPMs are the same will have more torque. Therefore, being more capable to handle larger loads like weight or up hill terrains.

Bob

Wait a minute, the 510rpm is the WHEEL? You're saying it DID about double as you doubled the voltage. You don't even know that the VOLTAGE was exactly double.

And the correct way to estimate the change is with the theoretical numbers. You don't round or reestimate in the calculation. The big problem is that the motor might not be up to powering the bike at the increased rpm, which is far more important than wind resistance. But you really don't know when you're crunching these numbers. With so much unknown you calculate what it's supposed to do then accept that nothing is perfect.

Let's see. With the wheel at 1,000rpm, the scoot would be doing almost 40mph if it could keep it up with the wheel on the ground. YIKES! NOT on one of those.

I realized i had the batteries in parallel, not series. I tried them in series, and the speed controller would not take it. So i guess I'll have to get a new 12v 12ah battery, and a new speed controller. Do i need a 750 watt speed controller cuz the motor is 75o watts, or can i use any 36 volt one. And also, will the motor and throttle handle the 12 volt upgrade?

I have an open chain drive with a chain guard, and what do you mean by multiple throttle plugs?

FWIW I have an ezip 750 and run it on 12s lipo with a electricscooterparts controller ratedh for 1000w on 36v. I easily can cruise at 22 mph plus on that thing with the new controller. The motor holds up suprisingly well.
8)

How many lipos are you running? 2 or 3, and do you get good range? Also, would I need to get a 36 1000 watt speed controller if i wanted to go 22+, or could i settle for a 36volt 750 watt?

Bossmatt123 said:

How many lipos are you running? 2 or 3, and do you get good range? Also, would I need to get a 36 1000 watt speed controller if i wanted to go 22+, or could i settle for a 36volt 750 watt?

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This is the controller I have.
36V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller
Designed for 36 Volt motors up to 1000 Watts. Maximum current 40 Amps. Under Voltage protection 30.5 Volts. Current limiting feature prevents controller and motor damage due to over-current conditions. Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life. Uses standard 3-wire variable speed hall-effect throttle. 8AWG battery and motor connection wires.
Item # SPD-361000
I was able to cram 12s 10ah lipo in it and get easily 7 - 10 mph of full blast range. This controller can take 48v, but the lvc wouldn't be right for 36v I think you would be very happy with 10s 15ah of lipo if you can get in there..

Dauntless said:

Wait a minute, the 510rpm is the WHEEL? You're saying it DID about double as you doubled the voltage. You don't even know that the VOLTAGE was exactly double.

And the correct way to estimate the change is with the theoretical numbers. You don't round or reestimate in the calculation. The big problem is that the motor might not be up to powering the bike at the increased rpm, which is far more important than wind resistance. But you really don't know when you're crunching these numbers. With so much unknown you calculate what it's supposed to do then accept that nothing is perfect.

Let's see. With the wheel at 1,000rpm, the scoot would be doing almost 40mph if it could keep it up with the wheel on the ground. YIKES! NOT on one of those.

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If you had correctly read what I wrote you would realize your error. I said "I clocked the "free motor speed" at 510 RPMs on the 24v controller and over 1000 RPMs on the 48v controller." And to better detail it for you I had 2 24v 20ah lifepo4 packs wired to the motor in parallel (that equals 24v) and measured the 510rpm. I then installed the same packs and wired them in series (that equals 48v) and retested and measured over 1,000rpm. Most all of us know that any pack is not actually going to be exactly 24v. So there are just something's that are taken for granted and shouldn't have to be explained. Or are you just looking for something to find fault with?

Bob

Bossmatt123 said:

I realized i had the batteries in parallel, not series. I tried them in series, and the speed controller would not take it. So i guess I'll have to get a new 12v 12ah battery, and a new speed controller. Do i need a 750 watt speed controller cuz the motor is 75o watts, or can i use any 36 volt one. And also, will the motor and throttle handle the 12 volt upgrade?

Click to expand...

If you are using a hall throttle it is actually about +5v. The only issue as to 24v or 36v is if the throttle has a voltage indicator on it. In this case you can just leave off the indicator wires and use the same throttle. But if you want to maintain the voltage indicator then you will need a new throttle.

Anyway you look at it the motor is a 24v motor so increasing the voltage is always going to be a risk. As I explained I went from 24v to 48v but I used a temp monitor on the motor. I ran that motor for 400 to 500 miles that way and it's still running but I am using a different bike now. But as I said the motor is still fine.

Bob

dumbass said:

If you had correctly read what I wrote. . . .

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I DID correctly read what you wrote. If YOU correctly read what I wrote you wouldn't have wrote that.

Except you ARE looking for things to find fault with. Mostly failing.