FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

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FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Jan 05 2014 6:58pm

Interesting Reads Frequently Asked Questions This guide is made for a single or dual 63mm motor setup using a 6S lipo battery. The reason why I choose 6S as it is much cheaper and can effectively ride up around 20-23mph easily. Single motor works well and is much cheaper than going dual motors. The best part of this setup is you can always upgrade later to dual motors if you wanted too as the parts will all be compatible for a dual motor. Benefits of dual motor are less stress on one motor and a bit faster, more torque more power and better stopping/braking power IMO.

Step 1 - Welded Longboard Motor Mount
Step 2 - Building The Drive Hubs
Step 3 - Choosing The Electronics
Step 4 - Choosing The Board
Step 5 - Putting It All Together
Step 6 - Building An Electronics Enclosure


TorqueBoard's Welded Motor Mount Single/Dual Motor Pricing
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 38#p831538.


If you are looking for a faster electric longboard, your equipment will be different as well as voltage. I hope this guide helps most people. If you have any questions, please post and I or anyone else can help answer any specific questions. This guide is based on my own experience and results can vary.

Step 2 - Building The Drive Hubs

This is the second most important part of building an electric longboard. To build the drive hub, you simply need to attach a pulley wheel to the longboard wheel. The easiest way to do this is to use a plastic wheel and you can drill through it yourself.

Choosing Your Longboard Wheels
(1) 83mm, 90mm, 97mm ABEC 11 Flywheels or eBay Blank Pro Flywheels *I prefer the eBay Blank Pro Wheels. You can use M6 bolts that fit and hold onto the Blank Pro Flywheels (ABEC Clones). M6 bolts hold it pretty well and is better with the torque that you put behind it. For ABEC 11's something would need to be used to drive the torque from the wheels through similar to the inside retainers that lpbug uses here - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=54938.
(2) 75mm Orangatang In Heat Longboard Wheels *These work but you would have to drill through the wheel itself to mount them.

83mm, 90mm, 97mm eBay Blank Pro Wheels are recommended for an easy setup. 83mm's work well but if you want to ride over bigger side curbs and run over potholes 90mm/97mm wheels are better.

Image
These wheels are the 97mm Blank Pro Flywheels above.

Gearing Ratio
Depending on the wheel that you use, you may need a diff gearing ratio. The gearing ratio that works for more torque would be 1:3 to 1:4 which is the ratio between the motor pulley wheel and the longboard wheel pulley. For a more top end, more speed you would want to reach more along the lines of 1:2 ratio.

More Top End Speed - The reason why this works like this is because for top end you want less drag so a motor pulley of 15T and 30T going at higher speeds there is less drag when the 15T pulley pulls the 30T pulley.
More Starting Torque - For more torque you want a smaller motor pulley and a bigger drive wheel. What this will do is when the motor pulley pulls, you want it to pull a bigger drive wheel as it will pull harder from the start.

This is the reason why multiple gearing bikes (ex. 5/6 speed mountain bikes) have multiple gears. You use the lower gears which will switch to the bigger chain pulley and will help you climb hills better. When you switch to the 5 or 6th gear (higher gears) it will allow you to peddle faster with less drag.

Unfortunately, for a electric longboard we do not have the option of being able to fit multiple gears so we are stuck with choosing only one gearing ratio to help us along the way for both starting and top end speeds. We must find a medium that gives us enough torque on start and our own personal required top end. This means 15mph, 20mph, 40mph etc. Although, with a single motor on a 6S voltage battery we are limited to about 20-23mph due to the lower voltage. Higher voltage would give us more power to reach higher top speeds although this will cost more in the long run.

My medium gearing ratio is a 14T motor pulley and a 40T drive wheel pulley. This gives us a gearing ratio of 1:2.85 which is meant for more torque than top speed/top end. Doesn't matter too much since we are limited to about 20-23mph with a 6S voltage battery. Partly, the reason why I use this ratio is that there are plastic 40T drive wheels that make it easy.

Image
Image

Gearing Belt & Pulley Type - The most common pulley pitch that is used for electric longboards DIY and manufactured boards is HTD 5mm pitch belts and pulleys. The manufactured boards use 15mm width pulleys which I would recommend but currently I am using 9mm width. 15mm pulleys are more durable and longer lasting because of the extra width which is why production typed boards would use them IMO although they would also cause more drag. 9mm width works well for a dual motor rear wheel as there isn't much space to use 15mm. If you are using a dual motor or single motor diagonal setup 15mm width would be nice. 15mm works well for 20-23mph but if you are trying to reach speeds that are 30mph or higher a 9mm width belt would be better because of less drag.

What does more torque do for us? More torque allows us to be able to not kick push to help the motor go, less stress for the motor on start. Although, it does help to kick to push it's not needed. It also allows us to reach 10-20mph much faster with more torque and allows us to climb hills with more ease.

My Standard Drive Train Setup using HTD 5mm Belts and Pulleys.
These parts are standard and work with my own motor mount. If you have a different motor mount, you may have to double check to see what your motor mount will allow/fit.

Motor Pulley - SDP-SI.com - Part Number: A 6A25-014DF0908
* This is a 14T HTD 5mm pitch and 9mm width aluminum pulley with 2 flanges, 2 set screws M3. This comes in a standard 6mm center which will need to be 8mm to fit through the 63mm SK3 motor shaft. I use 14T as this allows more room for a threaded M3 set screw since the hub itself is a bit thicker so it can get more threads through. I use actual M3 socket cap screws instead of set screws as I find them a lot durable and stronger than a regular M3 set screw. They have quite a bit of force on them as well. I also get this with 2 flanges so the belt stays on the motor pulley. I make sure the drive wheel pulley only has 1 flange so I can easily get the belt over the motor pulley + drive wheel pulley.

Tip for the motor shaft would be to use a dremmel and create a flat on the motor shaft. You can do this by sanding a part of the motor shaft with the dremmel so it's a flat. The reason why you want to create a flat on the motor shaft is the set screw will sit on top of this flat and it will give it a better position to hold that set screw in that spot rather than the set screw trying to hold the pulley in that position on a circle shaft. I would highly recommend this be done and not to pass this part up.

You can do one better and either make the motor shaft and motor pulley a D shape and/or a keyway. If you can make it a D shape or Keyway the motor pulley will never spin around the motor shaft as it will be keyed in a way where it won't spin. The idea is you want the motor shaft to move the pulley and not have it spin around each other because nothing is holding it in.

Drive Wheel Pulley - SDP-SI.com - Part Number: A 6L25-040SF0910
* 40T HTD 5mm pitch 9mm width pulley available from SDP-SI.com - Part Number: A 6L25-040SF0910. This needs modifications to get it to fit properly. You will need to widen the center hole and either use (3) or (6) M6 bolts that go through the Blank Pro Flywheel and the 40T HTD pulley. This means drill in 3 or 6 holes to fit the bolts through. You can then have M6 lock nuts on the other end. Make sure to get it as centered as possible as this can cause issues when riding.

Pulley Belt - SDP-SI.com - 57T HTD 5mm pitch 9mm width
*A 57T Pulley Belt should be good for a 14T and 40T HTD 5mm pulley. Last time I checked I think it works well. 56T might work as it seems at this moment that's all that SDP-SI has available.

Step 3 - Choosing The Electronics

Things you need to complete your build would be the following:
(1) ESC - Electronic Speed Controller
(2) Lipo Batteries
(3) RC Electrical Connectors
(4) RC Transmitter & Receiver

(1) ESC - Electronic Speed Controller
For a 6S setup, I would highly recommend purchasing the Hobbywing EZRUN-150A-Pro from ValueHobby.com which is about $85. Also purchase the programming card to make life easier. This ESC works better than the HobbyKing 150A or Trackstar 150A from HobbyKing.com.

Image (2) Lipo Batteries
I would use (2) 3S Lipo Batteries as they are cheaper and much easier to charge. If one battery breaks you can simply purchase another and they are fairly cheap. They are also thinner/smaller than a regular 6S as a 6S is 6x 1 cell batteries versus 3x 1 cell batteries. The 6S 5000mah setup should give you about 6 to 10 miles and I normally carry 2 or 3 sets of these batteries as they are light. I just simply swap them on the board with a new pair which takes about 2-4 minutes.

[*]ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 20C (USA Warehouse) - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html - $22.07/each.

(3) RC Electrical Connectors
For connectors, you can use whichever that you like best. The cheapest way would be to use 5.5mm gold bullet connectors if you want it nicer looking EC5 or XT90 plugs are real nice and make things more neater. I would go with 5.5mm or EC5. XT90 seem a bit harder to take apart versus the EC5's. Other items that I occasionally use: You can use the HXT 4mm's to connect the batteries and/or you can cut them off and put on 5.5mm's and/or EC5 connectors.

(4) RC Transmitter & Receiver

The GT2B transmitter and receiver combo is cheap and pretty easy to use. The rechargeable battery lasts long and is simple to recharge with a USB cord. I still wish this controller was much smaller so it can fit in my back pocket but that would take some modification which I may do later on. I tried getting this one here working Quanum 2.4Ghz 3ch Pistol Grip Tx & Rx System - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ystem.html as it is a smaller controller but was not able to get it to work. It's a bit smaller but not small enough. If it worked I would switch over. If anyone got this to work let me know as I would like to use it too.

*HobbyKing HK-GT2B 3CH 2.4GHz Transmitter and Receiver w/Rechargable Li-ion Battery ( US Warehouse) - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html - $25.31

Step 4 - Choosing The Board

Choosing a longboard depends on what type of setup that you personally want. I wouldn't use a dropthrough at least if you purchase the pre-welded ones from me since the angle they are welded isn't meant for a drop through setup. If you are welding the motor mounts yourself it will work fine just make sure you account for the drop through. I purchase my longboard decks from MuirSkate.com and/or ebay. I'll also include a link to a few cheap boards if it doesn't matter to you. I would pick a board without a deep concave underneath the board as it will be harder to mount the electronics underneath the board. I personally like 33-36" longboards as they are easier to carry around and more portable since they aren't so long. A board with some good foot pockets help for going uphill and downhill it helps you stay on the board better.
  • 36.5" Longboard - 9.75 x 36.5" NATURAL LONGBOARD SKATEBOARD Deck KICKTAIL - http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-75-x-36-5-NAT ... 1e854158a3 - $33.99
    *This setup works well for a single motor mount a dual diagonal setup and there might not be enough room for all the electronics underneath the board.
  • 34" Longboard - Landyachtz 2013 Ripple Ridge Longboard Skateboard Deck w/ Grip - https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/dec ... -Grip.html - $78.00
    *This board was purchased for a single motor and/or dual rear wheel setup as the wheelbase is shorter there isn't as much space to mount the electronics. It might fit though with a diagonal setup.
  • 34" Earthwing Hoopty 34 Fiber Weave Longboard Skateboard Deck w/ Grip - https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/dec ... -Grip.html - $85.00
    *This board was purchased for a dual diagonal motor setup as the wheelbase is bigger to fit the electronics.
My pre-welded motor mounts on Paris Trucks fit any of these longboard decks above without any modifications.

Step 5 - Putting It All Together

1. Setting up the Motor Mounts, Drive Train and Paris Trucks.
2. Setting up the Electronics

1. Setting up the Motor Mounts, Drive Train and Paris Trucks.

The easiest way is to purchase the pre-welded motor mounts on Paris Trucks and simply bolt them onto your board. If you didn't you will need to weld the motor mounts to the Paris Trucks or any longboard trucks of your choice. When welding the motor mount to the trucks. Make sure you have a raw pair of trucks and there is no color coating on the trucks or you can't weld it. You will need to sand it down and then weld it so might as well just get the trucks raw. If you wanted too you can use any type of trucks the hole on the motor mount will just need to be widened to fit through.

Image

1. Bolt the trucks with the motor mount to your longboard.
2. Bolt the motor to the motor mount.
3. Bolt the motor pulley to the motor shaft and use the set screw.
4. Bolt the drive wheel pulley onto the wheel and attach the wheel to the truck axle.
5. Slip the belt onto the motor pulley first and then slip it onto the drive wheel as well. You may need to simply put the belt on the drive wheel pulley and turn the wheel to pull the belt over the entire pulley. This makes sure that the belt is snug and won't cog. Cog meaning it won't skip any teeth because the belt is too loose.
6. Now you are done with the motor mount + drive train. You simply need to connect all the electrical parts and mount your electrical parts underneath the board.

2. Setting up the Electronics

The basics for electronics should be the batteries are connected to the speed controller positive and negative wires. The speed controller has a built in BEC which converts the 6S voltage to 3v to power the RC Receiver. The speed controller ESC should have a positive and negative wire that will power the RC receiver. There should then be another wire coming out of the ESC which will send the commands from the RC handheld transmitter to the RC receiver. This wire should come out of the ESC and plug into the RC receiver. In the RC Receiver, you should have a power and another one coming in from the ESC, usually on channel 2. The top plug on the RC receiver should be the power.

1. Connect the (3) motor wires to the ESC.

You will have to make an adapter which is 4mm female gold bullet connectors to 6mm male connectors that connect to the ESC. 3 adapters which are the same, you can use 10AWG. Each will be 4mm female bullet connectors to 6mm male bullet connectors to fit into the ESC. This means that you will have to purchase 6mm gold connectors.

The (3) 4mm female connectors will be plugged into the motor wires and the (3) 6mm male connectors will plug into the ESC.

2. (2) 3S batteries connected in series.

You will need to connect the (2) 3S batteries that you bought in series. To connect batteries in series, battery 1 needs positive to be plugged into battery 2 negative which will then give you a negative and positive connectors left over which will be plugged into the pos/neg into the ESC pos/neg. I will try and include pictures in the future once I take some from my new build. The best and easiest way to set this up would be to use EC5 connectors for all batteries and creating a series adapter for (2) batteries in series to go to the ESC.

3. Connect batteries to ESC positive and negative wires.

Connect the battery pos/neg to the ESC pos/neg to give power to the ESC.

4. Connect ESC BEC wires to RC Receiver.

Connect ESC brain wires and ESC power wires to the RC Receiver. There should be a plug for the power and Channel 1 to 3 for the RC Receiver. You can put the ESC brain wires to Channel 2.

Conclusion
That's pretty much it to complete the electrical connection for the board. The best way to turn on your electric longboard would be to turn on the RC Transmitter Controller first and then plug in the power from the ESC to the Batteries to give the Eboard it's power. The RC Receiver will then beep to say it has been successfully connected. You can then hold the throttle on your RC transmitter and the motor should then pull the wheels.

On/Off EC5 Adapter - What you can do to make life easier is create a connector for the positive from the ESC and positive to the battery. Simply, create an adapter with the EC5 plugs where one side goes to the ESC and one side goes to the battery. You then have the other connector of the EC5 which just loops around to complete the full connection. You can then remove the EC5 plug with the loop and it will act as a connector to finish the final connection for the battery to the ESC. I will post pictures when I set up my new board.

That about sums up the complete build of an electric longboard skateboard. The final piece is how to mount all the electronics underneath the board without getting dirty and so you can easily swap the batteries.

Step 6 - Building An Electronics Enclosure

You could setup your own electronics enclosure from heated ABS sheets, heated kydex sheets, plexiglass, thin aluminum and many more materials. Although, I want something that's easy and simple. In my opinion and the countless hours that I've spent searching for the best electronics enclosure. I ended up finding this company Polycase to have the best stuff, almost - http://www.polycase.com/. To make your setup as neat as possible, you want to make all the connectors and wires as small/short as possible to avoid having a big bunch of wires all over the place. You will have to drill holes into these enclosures to fit the wires through. To make them neater, you can use 1" rubber grommets which you can find on ebay and use a 1" drill bit and/or 1" hole saw to make the holes into the enclosures. You can also use a stuby philips screwdriver to undo the enclosure covers and/or a small electric screwdriver to make it faster. I usually keep a bag of extra parts just in-case things fall apart or I end up needing them.

1. Enclosure for EZRun 150A ESC + RC Receiver + Wires
2. Enclosure for (2) 3S Batteries

1. Enclosure for EZRun 150A ESC + RC Receiver + Wires
The size requirements for an EZRUN are the following: 2.55 inches Length x 2.16 inches Width x 1.77 inches height. Although, you need some space to also add the wires and receiver. I would use something like this here from PolyCase - XR-34F and/or XR-44F - http://www.polycase.com/surface-mount-xr-series. These are plastic so once you can find the proper placement inside the enclosure, you can cut through the top if you wanted to to give room for the ESC. With the XR-34F, there should be enough space to include the On/Off EC5 Adapter as well as the wires.
Image

2. Enclosure for (2) 3S Batteries
For the (2) 3S batteries they are about 6" length x 4.5" width x 1" height you still need some room for wires as well. Unfortunately because of the big length and width there are no enclosures with a 1" height. The best I was able to find was 2.22" in height. I found the XR-57F was the best option http://www.polycase.com/xr-57f it has a max inside space of 6.957" x 4.650" which is enough room for my 6" x 4.5" almost barely. There are also a few other options listed below as well. I bought a few of each to report in the future how well they work.

XR-57F - http://www.polycase.com/xr-57f - Outside - 7.25 x 5.00 x 2.22 in. Inside - 4.650 x 6.957 - $8.72
JB-65 - http://www.polycase.com/jb-65 - Outside - 6.75 x 6.25 x 1.63 in. Inside - 6.496 x 5.941 - $9.85
DC-47F - http://www.polycase.com/dc-47f - Outside - 7.62 x 4.62 x 2.25 in. Inside - 7.323 x 4.318 - $9.18

Conclusion

Hope this helps you build your electric longboard. If you have any questions please let me know and I'd be happy to help. If anyone has any comments and/or suggestions they are all welcome.

Great Electric Longboard Build Threads I may have missed some but these are the most helpful for me. If you know of any which I can add please let me know.

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions!!!

How much will I spend?
It's not going to be cheap :). Especially if you have a lot of requirements and you want the best parts. I would say it would cost you about $600-$800 if not a bit more. That's about what everyone else around here spends.

Regardless, spend the money and/or save up. You will enjoy it as pretty much everyone on here does.

What kind of range in miles can I get?

ELECTRIC SKATEBOARD RANGE ON 6S 5000mah
If you want 10 mile range on 6S with hills. You would need about 5,000mah 6S in batteries total but it would be close to pushing it depending on your terrain. I personally would keep another 5,000mah as a spare as I do in a backpack.

I'm averaging about 6-10 miles on 6S 5000mah. I get about 6-9miles at 3.70-3.80v left. 4.2v - 3.7 = .5volts. This means .5 volts gets me 7 miles to be on the safe side. 3.7v to 3.3v is .4v difference so .4 left to get to 3.3v means about another 4-5 miles or so. You cannot go lower than 3v per cell but best to stop at about 3.3v if not higher. I stop at about 3.7 - 3.6v not sure if its better or not. That means a 6S 5000mah battery will get me about 10-12 miles with pretty much empty batteries. I personally run each of my (2) 3S 5000mah batteries to about 3.7 or 3.6 and I swap batteries with another set I usually care in my backpack. Not sure if this is better or not but I would assume so since the batteries are never fully discharged it means longer life.

With that said, 6S 10,000mah should get about 18-24+ miles in range. That's with batteries fully depleted almost. With my current route which is a combination of hills and flat ground about 60/40. 6S 10,000 mah would be (4) 3S 5000mah batteries and 2 Series and 2 Parallel aka 2S2P. The problem is this would add to the weight of your board.


BATTERY SETUP for 6S Setup

Things To Know About LiPo Batteries
- LiPo batteries can be dangerous and fires can happen without proper care.
- 4.2v per cell is max. 3v is the lowest a cell can go. Do not discharge or use LiPo batteries under 3v per cell. 3.3v is a decent low voltage cut off meaning stop using batteries after 3v.
- Do not connect the red/black wires on a battery to each other. It can start a fire!
- LiPo batteries can become unbalanced naturally. No two batteries are alike. If you want your batteries to last longer you will have to keep them balanced before you charge. LiPo chargers can balance batteries but to a certain extent. If they are .2-3v from the other cells in the pack they should be fine. Personally, I would balance them so they are equal and then charge at all times. Do not charge your LiPo's if the cells have a .5-.10v difference as if you do. They will be so far off that it won't balance completely. I would run the "standalone battery balancer" to get them the same cells. I personally would not risk trying as I have already ruined 3 sets of batteries which probably cost about $200-300 total and only had less than 10 runs on them which cost me too much!

LIPO BATTERY ACCESSORIES - Must Have!
- Standalone Battery Balancer - $13.00 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... em_6S.html
- Low Voltage Alarm w/ LED & Alarm - I would get one of these for each batteries. At all times you will know exactly how many volts are on each cell.

OPTION 1 - CHEAPEST OPTION
The cheap option for a 6S Battery Setup would be a simple 6S charger and power supply. The negative is that this charger setup would only charge at about 2 Amps or 2C max.

LiPo Chargers for 6S
- IMAX B6 Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (GENUINE) - $24.99 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... UINE_.html
- Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ accessories - $22.99 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ories.html

Charger Power Supply for 6S LiPo Charger
- Hobbyking 105W 15V/7A Switching DC Power Supply - $13.99 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... upply.html

OPTION 2 - SEMI-CHEAP OPTION
Buy 1 or 2 of the IMAX B6 or Turnigy Accucel-6 chargers and they can charge at 5-6 Amps which is quite fast. The faster you charge the worse cells can become unbalanced. This setup is perfectly fine for me and I don't think I will need the more expensive options.
- BATTERY CHARGER - I would get (2) of the IMAX B6 and/or TURNIGY ACCUCEL.
- POWER SUPPLY - HobbyKing 350w 25A Power Supply (100v~120v) - $41.99 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 120v_.html - This power supply I use currently it allows both of the chargers to charge at about 4-5 Amps with both chargers connected and/or 6 AMPS max with 1 of them being charged.

OPTION 3 - SEMI-RICH OPTION
Any of the iChargers are great. Make sure to get an equal power - power supply. They are in the medium price range as far as LiPo batteries go and are great for the price.
- CHARGER - iCharger 1010Bplus 300W 10s Balance/Charger - $118.99 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... arger.html
- CHARGER -
iCharger 106B-plus 250W 6s Balance/Charger - $79.99 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... arger.html
- POWER SUPPLY - HobbyKing 350w 25A Power Supply (100v~120v) - $41.99 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 120v_.html

OPTION 4 - FILTHY RICH OPTION
If you are filthy rich. The CellPro PowerLab 6 and 8 v2 are one of the best if not the best battery chargers. It's not needed but if you want the best.
- CHARGER - FMA POWERLAB 8 V2 - $239.99 - http://www.progressiverc.com/fma-powerlab-8.html
- POWER SUPPLY - Turnigy 1200W 100~120V Power Supply (24VDC - 50amp) - $142.35 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 0amp_.html. This one is a good one but you can get better ones from ProgressiveRC which are 1500watts to 2000watts.

BRUSHLESS MOTOR OPTIONS

By far the brushless motors from HobbyKing are the most affordable and pretty durable and reliable as far as I have experienced. Specifically, the Turnigy SK3 motors. You can use 42mm, 50mm, 63mm motors.

NTM 50mm motors work but there have been known issues of people having problems. There have been no issues for SK3 motors as far as I have heard/read.

ESC OPTIONS

Most of the ESCs that will work for an Electric Skateboard will be specifically the CAR ESCs. Car ESCs have brakes and Airplane/Helicopter ESCs don't have the same brake features. Unless you don't want brakes then try an airplane/heli ESC. However, the actual dollar amount will only be about $30-50 which means you might as well save and/or spend the required amount to do it right the first time around.

Why do I not want more torque?
I would go with higher KV rating. The KV rating for a 168kv and 1:2.25 would be a bit slow.

IMO more torque does absolutely nothing except lower top speed and no power.

I would like others to try it themselves as I and a few others whom tested it have come to the same conclusion.

Low KV and High Gearing + any battery pack does no good and no benefit even on 12s. If motors can't spin with the current load = heat.

You'll end up noticing your setup running harder because it has no momentum or RPMs to push you quicker.

IMO for any setup. 230-260KV a little lower, higher isn't too bad either 200-280KV. I wouldn't go higher than 280KV. Then adjust as needed through your gearing ratio.

It's much more effective to adjust higher gearing through your gearing ratio versus changing to a lower KV motor. Lower KV motor will add to drag and RPMs will be much lower for the exchange of what people say "more torque" but in actuality you don't get any benefit from it.

Your motors will struggle to make a revolution/rotation due to "torque" and very low RPMs.

We are better off aiming for a decent 25-30mph range even if you only go 15mph. IMO since higher torque + higher gearing = no benefit.
Last edited by torqueboards on Nov 04 2015 11:09am, edited 12 times in total.
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Jan Christian   100 W

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by Jan Christian » Jan 06 2014 9:13am

WOW great effort:)

torqueboards   100 MW

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Jan 06 2014 2:58pm

Jan Christian wrote:WOW great effort:)
Thanks! I hope it helps people looking to build an electric longboard. I'll post some finished photos once I get my bigger polycase enclosures.
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r3volved   100 kW

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by r3volved » Jan 06 2014 6:01pm

Good on ya
Open source knowledge all the way
Charge for skills, not data ;)

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beto_pty   1 kW

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by beto_pty » Jan 06 2014 8:24pm

Awesome info...just ordered 2 of the aforementioned smaller remotes a couple days ago..hope they aren'trash...
Do or Do not. There is no try
PATY/neta http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=65384
MIni-motor Build http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=56839
Destroyer http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=58504
Adrianas Board http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=61171
Gargoyle http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=61569
Velociraptor: 6s 10.4ah, Ezrun150, 9.8 mm abec11s, Quanum, 5060NTM, 16/48 hdt5, Piggyback Charge

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Jan 06 2014 8:55pm

beto_pty wrote:Awesome info...just ordered 2 of the aforementioned smaller remotes a couple days ago..hope they aren'trash...
Let me know if you get them working. I wasn't able to get them working. I bought 2 as well. The receiver wasn't finding the transmitter.
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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by daverobson08 » Jan 07 2014 4:03am

Great, well written resource torqueboards - informative and accessible. I'm sure this will help a lot of people save both time and money.

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by nechaus » Jan 11 2014 8:07pm

I use to have an electric skateboard, it was a longish board, I have never been able to really ride skateboard... but i thought id give a powered one ago, a bit stupid..

Do you get a sore back breaking and accelerating ?

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Jan 11 2014 8:23pm

nechaus wrote:I use to have an electric skateboard, it was a longish board, I have never been able to really ride skateboard... but i thought id give a powered one ago, a bit stupid..

Do you get a sore back breaking and accelerating ?
No, it's actually less energy expended breaking/accelerating with an electric longboard/skateboard versus actually kicking, sliding, foot stopping with a normal skateboard/longboard.
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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by lpbug » Jan 21 2014 10:41pm

Very good effort. Excellent guide.

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by nerdoman » Jan 23 2014 11:29pm

your setup has two motors right how many esc did you use. can you use 1 esc - 2 motors? i have a dual 6364 setup in mind but if i need another esc im not sure if i will add it. also is there any connector or somwthing that i might need to connect with that extra esc?

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Jan 24 2014 1:28am

nerdoman wrote:your setup has two motors right how many esc did you use. can you use 1 esc - 2 motors? i have a dual 6364 setup in mind but if i need another esc im not sure if i will add it. also is there any connector or somwthing that i might need to connect with that extra esc?
I haven't tested it yet but seems like you can use 1 ESC for 2 motors as long as your amps is well below the required amount per motor. Start off with the single motor first and then if you really want a dual get a second esc later. You would connect the 2 ESC pos/neg together to make one. The 2 ESC with built in BEC attach to a Y connector that does the same which turns into one. In the end from two ESCs you have 1 BEC and 1 black and red wire too.
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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by kkEdlund » Jan 30 2014 11:54pm

nerdoman wrote:your setup has two motors right how many esc did you use. can you use 1 esc - 2 motors? i have a dual 6364 setup in mind but if i need another esc im not sure if i will add it. also is there any connector or somwthing that i might need to connect with that extra esc?
You will need 1 ESC per motor. It is possible to run two motors on one esc under controlled conditions, ie. in a lab, but in real life it is not practical.

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Jan 31 2014 12:33am

kkEdlund wrote:
nerdoman wrote:your setup has two motors right how many esc did you use. can you use 1 esc - 2 motors? i have a dual 6364 setup in mind but if i need another esc im not sure if i will add it. also is there any connector or somwthing that i might need to connect with that extra esc?
You will need 1 ESC per motor. It is possible to run two motors on one esc under controlled conditions, ie. in a lab, but in real life it is not practical.
Yeah, thought about that. I didn't think about that in the beginning. :)
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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Feb 03 2014 11:23pm

Step 1 - Electric Longboard Motor Mount

This is the first most important part of building the electric longboard and one of the hardest if you build it yourself.

There are (2) two types of electric longboard motor mounts.
  • Welded Motor Mount - The welded motor mount will be a motor mount that is welded onto your longboard trucks. This is by far the most durable and reliable method to attaching a motor to your longboard trucks.
  • Bolt On Motor Mount - The bolt on mount is a motor mount that you can bolt onto your longboard trucks. Sometimes the bolt on mount can work with specific longboard trucks such as Caliber Trucks and/or Holey Trucks.
How to make/where to buy electric longboard motor mounts.

You can make your life easier by purchasing my motor mounts or you can make them yourself:
  • Build Your Own Motor Mounts - You can build your own motor mounts and either weld them onto the trucks and/or bolt on a motor mount to your trucks. Using Center distance calculator helps to figure out what pulleys you need and what the distance between your two pulleys will be - center distance calculator http://www.sdp-si.com/cd/default.htm. You can use 6061 or 6082 Aluminum depending on what is available in your area.
  • Pre-Welded Motor Mounts on Longboard Trucks - Longboard motor mounts with trucks already welded pre-welded - single motor, dual motor diagonal motors and/or dual rear wheel motor mounts. You can purchase my pre-welded motor mounts - TorqueBoard's Motor Mount Pricing.
  • Purchase Individual Motor Mounts - Purchase just the motor mounts and get your mounts welded locally within your area. I sell them for $35/ea motor mount shipped within the USA. You will have to get them welded on your own in your local area if you choose this route - TorqueBoard's Motor Mount Pricing.
Image
Image

This longboard motor mount will hold the motor in place underneath the board. My motor mount specifically works with 63mm SK3 motors with a bolt spacing of 32mm and 40mm/50mm motors with a bolt spacing of 25mm.

Image
Image
Image

What 50mm motors should I buy?
Turnigy SK3 50mm motors would be IMO the best bang for your buck. They are lightweight and are more then capable of reaching your speed and torque goals. SK3 motors are very durable and reliable. I have about 800 miles on one of my SK3 63mm motors. To keep costs down, I would recommend sticking to a 6S 25.2V LiPo Battery setup. I recommend 5055 280KV motors if you plan on running a dual diagonal and/or dual rear wheel setup and/or even a single motor setup. If you need more length for your motors to fit then I would recommend the 5045-450kv motors. If you don't have too, stick to the 280kv motors. These 50mm motors have a 25mm bolt spacing pattern.

Benefits of Single vs Dual Motor - Single 6S - you will effectively get 1512 watts from one motor. If you use (2) 6S batteries powered to each motor, you can get 1512 watts from each motor for a total of around 3KW. If you have (2) motors on (1) 6S setup, you will not get the full maximum watts and the 6S will be shared with the two motors. However, you still get a benefit by having two drive wheels. If you want the added power - add the added voltage.
What 63mm motors should I buy?
Turnigy SK3 63mm motors work well and all have the same bolt spacing 32mm's for the bolt pattern. I'd recommend using the 6354mm 215kv as they are more than enough for a 6S battery setup (22.2v / 25.2v). Things to remember are that lower KV means more torque but higher KV means more top end. The longer the motor width wise the more power that you can get from a motor. The first two numbers in a motor number is usually the size of the motor in mm's so 6354 means 63mm motor diameter. 54 means the width so 6354 is a 63mm motor with a width of 54mm.

If you are looking for a fast electric longboard that reaches speeds of 30-40mph. You would need to increase the voltage/amps to the motor to reach higher speeds. You can effectively put 6S motor directly into 1 motor. This would mean that you need (2) batteries that are 6S and each powers (1) motor. Rather than a 6S LiPo into (2) motors which would divide the voltage/power between the two motors.
What 42mm motors should I buy?

You can also use 42mm motors if you are trying to cut the weight. 350kv isn't so bad.
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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by jetpilot » Dec 23 2014 9:03pm

Awesome guide

I love anything that says FREE jajaja!

you should add how to make a nunchuck style controller to replace the bulky RC transmitter

this one is a bit expensive (and I haven't tried it) but for those who don't want to build the IC, this one seems like a good option
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/produc ... wiiceiver/

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by tung256 » Dec 23 2014 10:36pm

"4.2v per cell is max. 3v is the lowest a cell can go. Do not discharge or use LiPo batteries under 3v per cell.
3.3v is a decent low voltage cut off meaning stop using batteries after 3v."

this is confusing because i dont know anything about batteries. how to know the voltage per cell within a battery pack? and once i hit 3v, why cant i deplete it further to 0v? in cell phones, i got the impression that it's best to use all the power before plugging it to recharge. now im all confused. could you elaborate or point me to where i can understand further? thanks for the tutorials so far!

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Dec 23 2014 10:55pm

jetpilot wrote:Awesome guide

I love anything that says FREE jajaja!

you should add how to make a nunchuck style controller to replace the bulky RC transmitter

this one is a bit expensive (and I haven't tried it) but for those who don't want to build the IC, this one seems like a good option
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/produc ... wiiceiver/
It takes some time to make which is where most of the cost comes from. I can sell bag o parts again but with shipping and all it comes pretty close to the about the same amount.

It's also much harder for most people to solder their own.

$25 + $14 (International) First Class - $39 (not including Nyko Kama Wii Nunchuck)
$50 + $14 (International) First Class - $64 (not including Nyko Kama Wii Nunchuck)

You can always go with the GT2B and Quantum Pistol Grip regular 2.4ghz RC transceivers which are only about $20 bucks.
Last edited by torqueboards on Dec 23 2014 11:06pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Dec 23 2014 11:05pm

tung256 wrote:"4.2v per cell is max. 3v is the lowest a cell can go. Do not discharge or use LiPo batteries under 3v per cell.
3.3v is a decent low voltage cut off meaning stop using batteries after 3v."

this is confusing because i dont know anything about batteries. how to know the voltage per cell within a battery pack? and once i hit 3v, why cant i deplete it further to 0v? in cell phones, i got the impression that it's best to use all the power before plugging it to recharge. now im all confused. could you elaborate or point me to where i can understand further? thanks for the tutorials so far!
Typical lithium polymer and/or your Lipo RC packs from HobbyKing and such have a max voltage of 4.2v. They have a nominal voltage (average) of about 3.7v. They should for no reason go under 3v per cell. This is a standard for all lipo rc packs. It's part of the chemistry and how you use these packs. You don't bring them to 0v. I'm not sure of the actual "definition" maybe someone else can chime in.

You can use a voltage led alarm to display the voltage. Image

Yes for the packs 3v is "using up all the power". The same goes for cell phone batteries. you just don't know it.
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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by tung256 » Dec 24 2014 6:53am

if i buy a good charger like this, http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__ ... UINE_.html
would it take care of my lipo packs automatically? or do i have to check manually with discharge, balance, charge up? i wonder what tech Marbel is using because they say their batteries can be used well over 10,000 cycles without user's intervention.

just when i thought i knew everything about building eboards, now i hit the wall with charging batteries....
thanks for the help

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Re: FREE Step By Step 6S Electric Longboard Build Guide

Post by torqueboards » Dec 24 2014 11:02am

tung256 wrote:if i buy a good charger like this, http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__ ... UINE_.html
would it take care of my lipo packs automatically? or do i have to check manually with discharge, balance, charge up? i wonder what tech Marbel is using because they say their batteries can be used well over 10,000 cycles without user's intervention.

just when i thought i knew everything about building eboards, now i hit the wall with charging batteries....
thanks for the help
That's a decently cheap charger. If you want a good charger - you would be looking at something along the lines of a iCharger 208B ($120 ish - I have this one.. best affordable charger IMO) and/or a PowerLab 6 or PowerLab 8 (like these too but cost is too high $250+).

It will balance charge your packs but the main issue is when riding as at times discharging can be a bit unbalanced but fairly close. To take care of your packs, you just have to make sure the voltages don't differ to far apart between the cells. You can manually check them with an LED Voltage Meter and/or Battery Medic from HobbyKing.

I believe, you are thinking of 1,000 cycles if even. That's also an optimal figure and may possibly not last that long depending on the usage of the battery. They are most likely using 18650 Lithium Ion which seems to be a standard.
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Should I buy a Production eBoard and/or a DIY eBoard?

Post by torqueboards » Jan 24 2015 3:39am

Should I buy a Production eBoard and/or a DIY eBoard?

DIY eBoard Pros
- Endless customization options for battery, motors and gearing ratios.
- Ability to choose deck.
- Vedder ESC, Jacobbloy Hub Motors and much more new innovate products coming out in the DIY eBoard Community.
- Easy to carry spare lipo packs for extended range.
- Easy maintenance and parts replacement.
DIY eBoard Cons
- No on-board charging.
- No available enclosures but DIY/Homemade type enclosures for now. Although, some are very impressive.
- No custom controllers currently available besides the Wiiceiver, AlienPowerSystem Controller (not yet available, I think), soon to be Vedder Hacked Nyko Kama Controller.

If you don't mind fidgeting with your board and want more power. I'd opt for DIY. If you want something easy to use and not really mess with much a production board is ideal.

There still are some issues with DIY boards such as not main cover or enclosure options available. Not many on-board battery options. If the benefits out weigh the cons then a DIY board is definitely the route.

Production eBoard Pros
- Pre-built & Ready to ride.
- On Board Battery setup w/ on-board charging.
- Custom handheld controller
Production eBoard Cons
- No options for deck customization.
- Power is a bit less and restricted.
- Most are only single motor setups except for Boosted.
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Standard Wiring Sequence

Post by torqueboards » Jan 24 2015 3:44am

Standard Wiring Sequence

Ex. - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=66374

The standard wiring is in the following order:

Battery Pack > On/Off Switch w/ LED Switch End > On/Off Switch (Other End) > Watts Up Source > Watts Up Load > ESC

That way when you power on your board then the Watts Up will turn on. You do it the other way the Watts Up will always be on.

Independent BEC. You can solder to the main +/- wires. Simple option is soldering the tips of the UBEC +/- to the end connectors on the side and heatshrink over it. You can connect before the ESC.

If you don't plan on using a Watts Up Source. You can remove the Watts Up from the diagram.

All the components above simply just need to be connected together. Doesn't really matter what connectors you use and is more personal choice. Besides the obvious amp rating for connectors but we usually don't need to worry about that as much if we are using 5.5mm, XT90, EC5 type connectors.
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What is a Watts Up Meter / Turnigy 130A Watt Meter?

Post by torqueboards » Jan 24 2015 3:49am

What is a Watts Up Meter / Turnigy 130A Watt Meter?

Watts Up Meter $49.99
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... er_2_.html
Image

Turnigy 130A Watt Meter $23.95
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... lyzer.html
Image

A Watt Meter can measure the amps used, wattage used, battery pack voltage, battery capacity used of your setup and depending a few additional features as well.
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General eBoard Frequently Asked Questions

Post by torqueboards » Jan 24 2015 4:01am

General eBoard Frequently Asked Questions

This will be updated with any of the most frequent eBoard questions that are usually asked.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=66372 - Just starting out Eboard

- 15-20km range (10 US miles or so)
- What battery should I be looking at? 6s was my thought
Expect about 1 mile on the low end per 1,000mah. I would use a 8S or 10ah pack to get your mileage. You can run (2) 3S/4S in series for 6S/8S. 8S equals more power and more top speed 20-25mph depending on gearing ratio, wheels, etc. 6S can get you about up to 20mph but lacks additional power. Still pretty fast if you are just starting out. Definitely, much cheaper.

- Dual motors (so I can have the extra traction for hills etc, the single wheel setup confuses me. Dont the boards go to the opposite
direction from the powered wheel?)

You can change the direction of the motors rotation. On a dual diagonal setup, one motor pulls and the other pushes. Dual diagonal offers a more balanced ride. Dual rear offers a more wild ride. Single motor is perfectly fine for flat grounds. Uphill the dual motor definitely helps.

- Since I dont really have the means for fabrication should I look at torqueboards or alien drive or are there different options?
The the are DIYElectricSkateboard.com, AlienDriveSystems.com, EnertionBoards.com. Personal choice on whom you choose. For my kit I try to offer the entire mechanical kit at a cheaper price. ADS and Enertion both have great looking kits as well and is higher quality but you also pay for it.

- 35-40km max speed (25 US miles) (not hugely necessary but if it was fast that would be great)
You'll want to use 8S voltage and perhaps a 1:2.5 or 1:2 gearing ratio using 83/90mm ABEC 11 Flywheels or clones.

- I think from looking at the forum a motor in the 192-200ish range would be best?
Motors from HK the NTM 5065 are about $45/ea or so. Average price is about $50-$65 and/or $80-90+ if you look into 63mm motors. There are also Tacon motors which are cheap also http://www.hobbypartz.com/bigfooutrubr.html.

- Longboard setup so probably 35inches+ long
- Is there a certain type of board that I should look into or does that not really matter too much?

Depends, personal preference. Some people prefer longboard decks that have flex and/or are rigid. There's also an option to choose a kicktail and/or not. A longer wheelbase board. You can't go wrong with either. 35" inches is fine if you are ok with a smaller standing stance.

- An ESC that has a braking function that is progressive(basically isn't just like a ON/OFF ordeal)
All Car ESCs have progressive brakes.

- a weight around 15 pounds but hopefully doesnt tip the scales of 20 Lbs (7kg-9kg weight)
You should be able to hit about 15 lbs or less for a dual motor board at 35" deck. Might be a bit more depending on how much battery capacity you plan to use.

- Whats your preference wiimote or rc controller?(if rc controller which do you use?)
Personal choice and depending on your riding route. If you live in a busy city due the the Nyko Kama it tends to have issues with connection. Areas with no interference works perfectly fine. If you do plan to use it place the wiiceiver away from the motor wires.

As far as RC controllers go,
GT2B - By far the best and most precise controller. Throttle range is much longer so you end having more speed options.
Quantum Pistol Grip - Smaller size but a lot smaller throttle range which means less speed options. A bit different and not as reliable as a GT2B.
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