Vanarian wrote:Quick updates : I couldn't get enough budget for 2 skates but I ordered batteries and BMS for 1 skate! It will run 10S4Ah with max 70A of current, not that I will feed this much to the motor (or maybe I should?)
Thank you for the feedback 12S40A is around 2.000W peak, I envisaged that's around the motor's limit before saturation and burning copper. If you have time please post another video !saul wrote: I finally got my board out for a ride, set the current limit to 40A (on 12s) on vesc, motor still heats up a bit but not a problem yet.
trying to go up a mediumish hill the motor struggled and a bit of smell for really one second. probably wouldn't turn out well with 50% more power.
I want to see this, will be cool!grindz145 wrote:I can't wait to power-backslide ... that's all I have to say
Ok that's good newssaul wrote:Since you'll have two motors I think you'll be ok! but hill might be a problem since your direct drive with bigger wheels then i have...
So far I was able to ride about 5 miles total, I have to kick start and then hit the throttle when i moving at walking pace. I think if it were dual drive I could take off and handle most hills.
I got some video but it was really dark and I didn't do a good job at pointing at the board..I try to post some more on my thread when i get out again.
How is this even possible... amazing. Even with moderate efficiency that's like a 30 mile range....Vanarian wrote: that's 450Wh per skate, with total of 900Wh
Well I stacked 2 layers of 15x and 18x 18650 cells (that's 30 and 36 cells!) and it turns out that it fitted right in and plenty of space was left for all electronics I was shocked too hahagrindz145 wrote:How is this even possible... amazing. Even with moderate efficiency that's like a 30 mile range....Vanarian wrote: that's 450Wh per skate, with total of 900Wh
I get your worries bro but don't worry I'm working to take these worries downgrindz145 wrote:I would try to get the UFS frame only done first. I bet you will sell these as kits wired to a backpack, and the full productization is going to be a nightmare. Plus, I still don't love the idea of having the cells strapped to my feet, especially on an aggressive boot ... It's too tempting to do mean things to them Plus I like to have my feet extremely low and close to the frame. Thick frames are a bit annoying and make the skate feel vauge. This will be a problem at 30mph
Nice video Ryu! Yea you need to smooth the plates with some teflon, it would greatly help and allow some side grinds I think.Ryuudan wrote: I'm guessing that after you build these gigantic frames and put 110mm wheels you'll notice that its way too tall to use with an aggressive boot. you have the 110mm from the wheel, plus let's say 10mm spacing and the batteries width that should be around another 50mm in which worst case (i know you have all the numbers) would give us a stilt-like boot 170mm (maybe taller) from the ground (against a 65-70mm normal UFS frame with 55m wheels). From my experience, aggressive boots are made to be flexible laterally to allow for grinds. I'm having a hard time with my Xsjados with the 125mm wheels which put me in 140mm height. You might need some ski boots of sorts.
other thing to consider is 4x110mm that would put you in 335mm wheelbase that its way too long for urban use, BUT would be great for those 30-35km/h speeds.
And lastly, 450Wh is a lot of weight. how much weight is that? I'm guessing that you are getting around 1kg+ just from the batteries.
if you add everything you will get a too tall, too long, too heavy, too expensive skate. It's fine for an experiment, but to make it a product it's a long shot.
what if you could reduce the height and weight by putting less batteries? maybe go for 3x110mm instead of 4x110mm to save on the weight of the frame and one wheel, also making it for maneuverable.