Steelhubs.com

Lightweight / Folding / Portable EVs - seats optional
Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 05, 2016 9:19 pm

Ur avatar picture looks a lot like a razor scooter with skate trucks on the back! That's what I want to make!


They won't sell u parts. places I found to sell me a stator on alibaba, the cost was more than the cost of buying a whole motor.. I forget the name of the place but if u ask me again I could find it. Not worth it thought. Gobrushless.com is the only place in the country with stators it seems, other than scorpion kits, and they're always out of the big stator.


I can almost say these are done. I have to come up with a quicker way maybe just a syringe with a fatter hole
Attachments
image.jpeg
Here's both sides done. Finally. Just needed to add retaining fluid to the bearings which takes 5 minutes.
image.jpeg
I'll be sending the most garish speckled colors to those who wanted black.
image.jpeg
With the rubber remains I made 2 battery trays. The clear I made earlier. Can't decide on which I like more.
image.jpeg
I'll put these in for connections 12s 2p per tray, and then pour rubber on top and compress it with duct tape maybe
image.jpeg (193.23 KiB) Viewed 26 times

206monkey32
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by 206monkey32 » Apr 06, 2016 1:25 am

Words cannot express how excited I am to get these motors...


Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 06, 2016 11:33 am

monkey and anyone else who I'm sending these to please pm me and confirm the shipping address. And pm me telling me how u plan to mount them. I was pouring thermal epoxy in the motor last night, then remembering how I definately wanted something very thin, low viscosity, to pour in and fill all the voids between the axle and motor. Luckily it has a long set time and I got it out. Then I decided fuk it I'm sure it's strong enough and with one of my many plastic 1.50 pipettes/syringes I filled the hole about 3/4 full. I screwed the axle in and it bottomed out before hitting the motor! I forgot again Paris trucks need additional threading. The new Arsenal are a great match at 180 and 165 but the longer 180 and 195 give me lots of board clearance w the 80 wheels. Anyway I got it out w the long cure time luckily. Don't do that.

Im not gluing anyone's on. Sorry. But do want to know what u plan to use and make sure it's not just red loctite. I'm repeating myself but I'm worried people will mount these...I don't know how. As I said before even red loctite is strong enough for the rotational force of the motor. It's kind of ideal because u can remove it with not too much force on a wrench and then the bearing on the inside can be accessed. But the motor spinning off isn't very dangerous probably wouldn't unwind and lose a wheel before ripping a wire and coasting ..if you just used loctite there is all the forces between the rider and the wheel transferred between an almost bare aluminum thread and the steel axle. Sounds like a recipe for disaster. Fill the voids with something thin u can pour in. I don't know what! I used j and b and it was fine but I've since heard its brittle. Maybe a polyurethane glue instead of epoxy? Maybe less filling in the resin for flexual strength? Maybe more for the thermal transfer keeping the motor cool? I don't know.
I'm now going to track down a die to further thread the Paris axle. It'll take forever. Hopefully buy one. This is a rare item and San Francisco has 20,00 types of ethnic food but getting a thread made is hard. I remember last time. I'll buy one and if u want to us it I can send it to u to borrow. If I find one to buy today.
It'll be another day till the glue dries, whatever I decide on, and then I will run them. I'm sending motors I haven't run but checked them for shorts with my LC meter which is really reliable. Ive checked them over and will be adding "retaining fluid" to the bearings and ring. U will need to press the motor apart with a clamp or something (harbor freight 14$) to open it again. U and the ring is a bit of loctite. Make sure the ring doesn't fall off and stays put.
Ok I'm done ..please pm me confirming ur address. If ur in the us please send me 20$ for shipping and I'll reimburse u the difference. Money is tight.
Last edited by Hummina Shadeeba on Apr 06, 2016 10:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Vanarian
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Location: France!

Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Vanarian » Apr 06, 2016 3:40 pm

That's seriously awesomeness in craftsmanship there!

I'm eager to see a review or even a contest with LEVer's hubs :P you rock guys!
I needed to turn Air Gear stuff into reality so I am making this!
-+Electric inline skates - no remote control - weight / angle sensor - hub motors - one frame for all wheels sizes between 80/125mm - from 3.2 to 12 KW :mrgreen:

Rollo Ergo Sum!

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Pylonflyer
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Pylonflyer » Apr 07, 2016 9:57 am

John and I were discussing the motor-to-axle bonding and I'll know more when I get my motors but it seems you'll want a structural adhesive and not something that's going to be brittle or get soft at running temps. I have tons of options because I work around this stuff, but you need something that is either locally sourced at Home Depot/Lowes or easily purchased online like McMaster Carr. We are thinking a 2-hour epoxy that's found at HDepot or any hobby shop, but there are also some good 2-part polyurethane adhesives on the market as well. The issue is not bond strength to metal, the issue is vibration and shock riding on rough pavement and if the adhesive doesn't have enough elongation and impact resistance, it will likely crack over time. Surface prep of the axle will also be very important since oils present will cause trouble with bonding. We've still got a little time to figure it all out yet.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 07, 2016 8:39 pm

If u haven't sent me money for shipping yours hasn't gone out yet. If you're in the us just send me 20$, if you're further away make a good guess and send it to me and I'll refund the difference.

Definitely use a very thin glue to put these motors on. I decided to use the super thick blue thermal epoxy. Poured some in the motor and thought I'd screw down into it with the axle and the resin would rise up to the top. No way. It wouldn't go at all and after completely cleaning out the motor I coated the axle and inserted it and still I chewed up the slot badly getting it to bottom out. The search for the perfect glue is on. Wish I'd found it already.

Justin
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Justin » Apr 09, 2016 4:57 am

Hey Hummina, how much would you est. the final shipping box would weigh? (So i can estimate the shippingcosts to The Netherlands).

Cheers,
J.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 09, 2016 12:01 pm

I'm about to go back to the post office and send a bunch and I'll be able to tell u after. But there are variable:insurance, tracking, time.

laurnts
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by laurnts » Apr 10, 2016 7:14 pm

I've also just wondered the same, hub + shipping cost to The Netherlands. Nicer if it's possible to do shipping together with Justin lol, but not sure how much the entire cost are.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 11, 2016 3:20 pm

Matias weisskapp w tracking (I'll pm u it later today was 65$)
Quin hulamm
Performance longboard inch
Hunter Mcallister.
Marcus Louie
Caden matson
Myrideables
Nicolas kapoor

All sent today and I have tracking for all domestic and matias and will pm it to u if I have ur name in my pm

I still have to check shipping to Australia and will do that today. Lots of people haven't sent me shipping money and I need it to ship!
I'll have a bunch more going tomorrow...should be everyone but elkick's

nickkapoor
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by nickkapoor » Apr 13, 2016 3:08 pm

Just opened them up. They look awesome!

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cmatson
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by cmatson » Apr 13, 2016 10:16 pm

So stoked for this!!! They look amazing Hummina, bravo indeed
Screen Shot 2016-04-13 at 11.13.05 PM.jpg
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Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 14, 2016 2:38 am

Phew. I just got my motors going after pushing for like a month...and get everyone's motors done except elkick's and they just need boxes and I'll be getting them to the po on my board tomorrow! Gaauireeeennnttteee. I had a surprise slow down finding it hard getting the bearings in again with retaining fluid.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 14, 2016 10:54 am

!!!i didn't send u screens that go between the aluminum flange and keep debris from going though the 6 holes. U can probably get some at a local head shop.!!!

!!! I ran out of shrink wrap and some of u I didn't add any extra from the single layer they sent. It's far from enough. Some of u I added two more layers then ran out. Add a couple layers if you're not sure and monitor the wires where they are held against the motor. Don't do what I did and lose the insulation there and short them!!

andysurfs
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by andysurfs » Apr 17, 2016 12:43 pm

Hi Hummina, I have been following your efforts here on ES for the last couple of months - super impressed with what you have been able to achieve!
I am about to kick off my first DIY build and was wondering if you still have any 100kv motors left? I'm looking for one for a single hub build, and would need it shipped to Australia.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 17, 2016 7:29 pm

Beyond what I said last time about the lack of screen(I actually don't have them either and there's a bigger airgap and I don't think it's a big deal)...but the lack of shrink wrap on some of ur motors is important. Most of them have a total of 3 layers and on my board I did four. I'd do four.


All is fantastic and I'm flying around on the 80kv. Everyone's motors have gone out except two of u and they will go tomorrow.
The bad news...while the peak power is better, or at least I can go up hills faster on the 80kv, the bad news is my potting was a bad idea and I should've just secured the stator and kept the holes open for air. The motors have a reduced sustained power ability because they will get hotter. I just hit 220f racing for 30 minutes. Boosted boards I don't ask to race anymore because there isn't a race on any terrain and the spandex clad guys fall as well...but 220f isn't good as the magnets demagnetize at 212f. The center aluminum hit 220 but I don't think the magnets lost anything even though the board sat and I should've kept it moving to get at least a bit of air going. I've since been out again today and the max speed is still the same at 26 which means the magnets are fine. Ironically if my top speed had gone up that means the magnets had been cooked and the kv would've increased. Still the same hill ability as well.

Im sure all of u should have them soon and I really want to hear ur feedback! I highly recommend the vesc with 12s (keep things cooler) on FOC.
All of u have pretty much the same thing. 80kv and a smattering of lost 90kv mixed in. Another mistake but it really won't matter. My inductance meter only works when the rotors are off and after getting all the motors back together and loctited and retaining fluid I want going to press them all apart to find such a minor difference. The only differences are a few of u have oil on the bearing seat of the big bearing, so retaining fluid on 3 surfaces and oil on 1. And one of u has oil on both bearing seats and the retaining fluid on the shaft side. This is actually how a fixed shaft and spinning rotor should have the bearings with the shaft to bearing connection fixed and the spinning load a bit looser. I get carried away with things sometimes going the wrong direction. U will not be able to open ur motors except one of u who I've talk to.

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cmatson
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by cmatson » Apr 17, 2016 10:05 pm

Hummina Shadeeba wrote:80kv and a smattering of lost 90kv mixed in. Another mistake but it really won't matter.
would it be possible to have one 80kv, and one 90kv? seems like that would mess some things up.. is there any relatively simple way to know if you have an 80 or 90kv?

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 18, 2016 12:11 am

It won't mess things up. In fact guiido over on the builders site has a much bigger variation between two motors he's running. For all we know it could be a boon. The simplest way to find out would be on the vesc look at the inductance readi ge of both motors if it's higher it's 80kv, lower then 90kv

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Nordle
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Nordle » Apr 18, 2016 2:02 am

Hummina Shadeeba wrote:.......the bad news is my potting was a bad idea and ....
What do you think about potting windings in thermal eopxy? Have in mind to do that with mine just ordered some high temp epoxy. I hope this will protect my windings from debris and water and then make some big holes in the front and rear of the motor for more airflow. Should also look nice to see the windings^^
4:20 Noob Hubz! BLAZE it
..sry for dat poor english..

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 18, 2016 3:36 am

I don't think it will help u. I thought in my situation it would help because the end winding, which is the part that gets the hottest since it has nothing connected to it to transfer the heat to, is right beside a thick aluminum wall. Anyway even in what seemed a great situation for thermal epoxy it was detrimental. I doubt it will help you. I used really good stuff too. Linked a bit back. Coating the windings to protect them seems a good idea though, maybe just use a thin coat everywhere.

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Pylonflyer
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Pylonflyer » Apr 21, 2016 2:40 pm

Got my motors in the mail yesterday, WOOHOO! Now I need to get my VESC's and 3D print an enclosure. Can't wait to charge the hills near my house. Will take video and report back for ya. :D

206monkey32
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by 206monkey32 » Apr 21, 2016 3:32 pm

These look sick.....just popped on some more heat shrink ( 4-5 layers now) and set to add connectors.

Need to set up VESC and add connectors.
Get battery sorted out/ built
Clean up and extend threads on trucks for deeper penetration (boom! got to use this twice)
Pick an epoxy.

Thoughts on trucks - are there any trucks we can use that don't need a die?

Image

Image

Image

206monkey32
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by 206monkey32 » Apr 21, 2016 3:47 pm

Aaaaand just found this stateside-
Apparently standard skate truck axel is
5/ 16 diameter axel with 24 thread spacing. Looks like home depot has you all covered assuming you want to make the mods yourself - Caliber trucks and sounds like Paris 180s

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-5-16-24- ... /204626050

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Apr 22, 2016 1:20 am

The new Arsenal trucks in 165 and 180 don't need extra threading. And their spacing is perfect

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