In a new series "Inokim - the suffering of the lambs," you going to see:
1. How and why it can be useful to change hall sensors in your hub motor if you have Adapto controller
2. How much effort it takes to set high quality mechanical disk brakes Avid BB7 on the front fork of Inokim
3. What is the proportional regen and how to combine it with the front disc brake
4. And a bonus: the replacement of gray PVC mudguards to the black rubber, wire box printed on a 3D printer, new CST 4PR tires - the secrets of perfectly smooth installation and new buttons and throttle on-board.
1.Why do I decided to change the hall sensors? First of all I had some issues with the motor sound and wanted to be sure about what sensors do I actually have. Chinese solders sometimes different halls in the same motor. There were cases when the set of halls was a mix between analog and digital. There is a very important hall characteristic, namely a lower operating voltage. For some it is 4.0-4.2 volts and 2.7 volts for others. And as MiniE has a protective diode on halls output power and a current sense resistor 12 Ohm and a voltage power regulator is 5 volt and not 5.5 volt. So the actual voltage at the the output comes to the halls just near the boundary on 4.2-4.3 volts.
So if the halls installed in the motor works nominally from 4.2V they going crazy, MiniE can't detect and work properly and it leads to the motor overheat, high power consumption, noisy rotation and so on...
It make things even worse when the motor starts to warm up and hall sensors characteristics changes... So re-soldering halls was an attempt to akin the motor and MiniE even more. And it is fully paid off, howling disappeared and the maximum speed to knocking sound on the idling crawled from 45 km/h to 50 km/h. HH SS413A
Honeywell (with memory effect). On the photo black is earth, red is power and blue is signal.
- [+] AODUO Halls
2.New front wheel
was found on Tao market and two weeks was spent on rework Inokim's front fork to fit Avid. Of course it was not the daily work and a lot of time was spent to thinking, but still a lot has been done on the mechanics: the V-brake ears removed; old front axle remade with some new bushings and threads; made a new insert between the bearings; bearings replaced; made two prolonging inserts to mount Avid so it fit to the rotor and caliper is still as close as possible to the fork; drilled two new holes in the fork to attach the caliper. Photos:
- [+] AvidBB7SL
3. Smooth proportional regen built on the principle of the analog Hall sensor SS49E.
I had to use two tablet neodymium magnets on the superglue I had to file one of them and glue both in order to extend the area to the moment when the disc brake starts to be active. The whole sensor is covered by shrinkwrapping. It is important to be aware of the polarity of the magnets and the direction of the sensor. The pictures shows a hole in the underside of the handle, the hall sensor and the magnet when the handle is pushed. On the controller screen you will see a little slider below the graph to take care of the released and pushed state of the break. Continue pressing the break handle activate the mechanical front break.
- [+] Regenerative break
4. I have not liked the gray mudruards on a black scooter and eventually they became covered with some muck and get dirty. So in connection my upgrade I have spent a lot of time to found a millimeter thin rubber roll with a pleasant relief surface, glued it in two layers and voila!
- [+] Black mudguards
The real gentleman from Finland agreed to help me with the hub capsule. He printed it for me and sent for free. Bless God such an open heart. Some painting with five layers black color and here is it. Compare before and after.
- [+] 3D capsule
For a long time I wanted to simplify the controlling bar. Finally, all the extra stuff (such as an indicator of the charge and needless switches) is gone and everything become quite simple. Two red buttons, ON and the light on the right and the throttle on the left (so that you can finally scratch your nose, or reset the phone with the right hand, without releasing the gas). And all breaking on both wheels is done by the right break handle (instead of the left plus button). My point with having it on the right was also that the right hand is stronger and that's mean extra inches that can be necessary to save my bones in emergency case.
And finally, the secret installation of tires is disclosed:
1. Release the air fully and push with your fingers on the sides of the tire to detach the tire rubber from the wheel (back fender should be removed of course)
2. Put some YES (washing dishes liquid) + little water (or if you have the special liquid for this purpose use it instead) to every place where the tire touches the disc from the inside on both sides of the wheel. I'm using a brush to smear because the fingers is to thick.
3. Pump the tube to 0,5-1 Atmospheres and standing on the Inokim move it back and forward several times on the floor until the tire is sitting properly and symmetrically.
4. Pump it fully and check the result by rotating the wheel with your hands
5. If it did not help, you can try to turn back to 0.5Atm and find the places where the circle of the tire changes it's perfect line around the wheel disc. Push on that particular place with your thumbs to get it right (liquid should help it to glide).
Enjoy your ride.
And the result was beyond my expectations, new tires gave "Volvo effect" - stability, softness, almost flight effect and confidence in turn. Brake just kicks, everything became simple and effective.