Better skate bearings for drive wheels.

chaka

chaka

1 kW
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
303
Location
New Mexico
hmm... What bearings were you using before that started clicking? How many miles on them before they started clicking?

I've not seen this on my drive wheel, but don't have a ton of miles on it yet. Will keep an eye/ear on it.

Board looks good - what's the specifics on it?
 
Thanks sl33py!

The specifics are:
Bearings: Bones reds
Batteries: 6 x 2s 4200mAh LiFePo4 wired to 6s2p for a total of 19.8v and 8400mAh
ESC: EZRun 150amp
Motor: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 6374 192kv
Motor Mount and Drive/Pinion Gear: Alien Drive System 20:32 tooth and a 275mm pitch length on the belt
Wheels: 80mm Orangatang Kegels
Trucks: 50 Calibers
BMS: cell logger/balance charger/LVC

Top speed @ current gear ratio 185+ rider: 21mph
Range: unknown
 
Nice :) Ideally, there should be a bearing on the end of the pulley wheel which fits around the truck either how it is or lathed down to provide a better position. The drive wheel should be spinning on the bearing as well to provide much more free wheel.
 
That would be Ideal, I think I will try that on the next build. And thank you torqueboards! You really came through when I needed to re-fit my gear ratio. I think the problem for me is that I like to keep my locknuts torqued down pretty hard, if I loosen it a little it frees up and spins nicely. We will see how well these do until I get around to implementing torqueboards solution.
 
chaka said:
That would be Ideal, I think I will try that on the next build. And thank you torqueboards! You really came through when I needed to re-fit my gear ratio. I think the problem for me is that I like to keep my locknuts torqued down pretty hard, if I loosen it a little it frees up and spins nicely. We will see how well these do until I get around to implementing torqueboards solution.
Click to expand...

They should be fine. Switch the set screws out with the M3 bolts. I should be getting new ones in a week which are M4 bolts. M3 set screws have a 1.5mm head which get stripped easily. M4 barely get's stripped when using a cap head IMO.

I like to torque my stuff down pretty hard too.
 
it helps to keep the drive axel and nut prepped with a bit locktite.

Standard lock nuts loosen up and that will cause some side to side wear of the inner drive bearing.

Tell us about that board??

What does it weigh?

What is the construction? all wood ply?

Will there be dual (diagonal) option?

How thick is it?
 
CSN said:
it helps to keep the drive axel and nut prepped with a bit locktite.

Standard lock nuts loosen up and that will cause some side to side wear of the inner drive bearing.

Tell us about that board??

What does it weigh?

What is the construction? all wood ply?

Will there be dual (diagonal) option?

How thick is it?
Click to expand...

I managed to keep the deck down to 3.5lbs and about 24mm thick. A dual diagonal is definitely going to be in the works. I should probably start a new thread with all the details before I hijack this one. :D
 
The angular bearings arrived, a perfect fit. They don't have much in the way of dust covers so I will have to keep an eye on them over time. I will see how they feel under load this evening with a full charge.

Speaking of a full charge. I soldered up a nice little piece of kit for balance charging manually.manualbalancecharge.jpg
 
How does the angular bearing differ from the regular 608 bearing? I'm missing something here obviously, so maybe a stupid question. Looking at pics it looks "beefier" w/ thicker areas around the axle in particular.

While you are hijacking your own thread - why are you balancing manually? for charging a larger series battery that your charger doesn't support natively? Maybe greater than 6s limit of your charger?

Any bearing will sound better while new - perhaps swap one of each and see if it truly lasts longer than a regular bearing? Or perhaps a nicer but still regular skate bearing to compare? I like biltins and the new Seismic Tektons. But not cheap. Will see how they last. It is a wear item but i have a nice little cheap-o ultrasonic cleaner and don't mind occasionally cleaning/lubing mine to get a good life out of them.

How are they doing?
 
Conventional skatebearings are a simple cartridge type and are not designed to take axial loading. I found that they do not hold up well when heavily loaded with belt tension. The angular bearings eliminated the slight binding I noticed and are designed for axial loading similar to a bicycle hub bearing. They are doing well and actually freewheel longer than any bearing I have used to date, my only critique would be for a better dust shield. If I keep them lubed they should hold up, I'm putting in 8 miles a day so time will tell. I want to add that do to the high cost I am only running these on the drive wheel.

The manual balance charge lead is used if my charger is taking to long to balance my pack. If I use the manual balance lead I can keep charging at 2 amps 1 cell at a time through the balance lead on my pack. Usually a cheapo balance charger slows down when 1 cell peaks out slowing charging to intermittent burst of 0.5 or so amps until the remaining cells peak.
 
608's not for axial loading? Weird! All those years of dropping staircases and ollieing over park benches were in vain I guess.. Just youtube a few skate videos and you'll see what 608's are capable of. :p
 
Sweet man! I bet you were doing that on an old powell peralta kicktail. You really don't see much axial loading when pulling an ollie or dropping staircases, unless you are doing it all while sliding sideways? These bearings solved an issue I was having, I admit it was a minor issue but I tend to obsess on details.
 
Do you know what degrees your angular contact bearings are? This matter in terms how much load a bearing is able to take radially and axially. At higher speeds like 40 mph, angular contact bearings are not best suited. A bearing that more useful would be a tapered bearing for being able to handle both large radial and axial forces, but no one makes them in the sizes for skateboards.
 
These bearings are rated at 94000rpm in grease. If we translate that into mph on an 80mm wheel we get a speed of 880mph :shock:
More than adequate for what we are doing here. I've sourced a manufacture for the sealed and shielded version of this bearing and I will have them available in my shop soon if anyone else wants to try these without breaking the bank.
 
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