DIY Boosted inspired electric longboard

Squad

100 W
Joined
Jun 28, 2015
Messages
148
Hi, I'm dentistry student, and hobbyist knifemaker from Poland. Few months ago I found boosted boards on IG and decided that electric longboard is my next must-have thing, doing reaserch I found ES forum and I've been reading it for a while now :D In june I ordered all necessary components and the adventure begun. I wanted to keep this built as much DIY as possible, in my workshop I have small manual mill with rotary table, small lathe, and knifemakers best friend- belt grinder. I sketched motor mounts in autocad, and milled them out of aluminium, and motor-mounting plates out of 3mm stainless steel (heat-threated after machining). Drive wheel hubs were turned by me out of industrial grade pulleys so it required a little bit of turning. I also made mosfet-based power-switch (theoretically capable of 200A peak). Battery pack was soldered using 8AWG wires, and the "power stripes" glued (I did not wanted to mill the deck) below the deck are cut out of 1mm thick copper sheet and 10mm wide, so generally it's a little bit of overkill compared to what I see here mostly. The most characteristic for boosted are beautiful enclousures, my initial idea was to make them out of kydex I use for knife/gun holsters, but then decided to use carbon fiber, after second, non satisfying attempt (and lot of wasted money) I returned back to kydex. I modeled enclousures positives out of wood and car putty, then gave them to be painted (in order to make fine molds). The controler is my only issue right now, I need to stabilize connection between 2 arduino nano's and NRF24l01, I'll get rid of onboard antennas and make my own. The controler visible in my first photo got fried reciever due to APS faulty BEC (replaced by Bruno), then I decided to use nunchuck based solution. Used erwincoumans code and instructions he posted on forum (thanks!).

When my longboard was still in construction phase okp posted build thread with similiar goal, I was curious how will his board look, now all of You have opportunity to compare. All right so now lets move on to the technical data:
Motors are NTM 50-60 270 KV, geared at 2/1
ESC is APS 120A dual
Battery pack is 10000 mAh 7S2P (5000 mAh per cell)
Deck is Vanguard flex 3, orangatang kegel wheels, caliber trucks
Weight is about 7 kg
For now I reached 45 km/h, but there was some power left (I calculated for about 55 km/h)
During testing I rode 12 km consuming 3500 mAh, (calm commuting).
Now photos:
http://imgur.com/a/6achp <- link to entire album

4lTLzxG.jpg
 
any chance you would consider making more of the enclosures for sale? Id be interested in buying a set.

Very nice build!
 
I highly respect people without lots of equipment creating nice things (like knifemakers using files instead of belt grinder :eek: ), so congrats for Your both builds okp, been looking at both threads for few months, I just decided to reveal myself when I finish build! And when it comes to motors and ESC your bulid is waaay ahead of mine :) It was interesting to see and compare different approach to reach similiar goal. Thanks!
 
Congrats, this looks great. It might help to keep a few extra cm. distance between Arduino /nRF24l01 and ESC (especially mosfets). Also the nrf24 version with PA+NLA+longer antenna might be better.

What mill did you use to mill aluminium? How did you attach pulley to motor shaft? Did you grind a keyhole or flats for set screw?
 
Very impressive, looking great.

Can't really compared to okp build, both of you did amazing job, but with different tools.
 
wow, this must be the most professionally looking build I have ever seen here on the forums! incredibly nice looks on just about everything. your motor mounts are stunning and I LOVE the supporting rod between the 2 mounts!! you set the bar way too high :D
 
I got the supporting bar idea from one of ES build threads, decided that it's great way to support and make whole drivetrain more stiff, also give a little protection for the motors (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=60280 thanks for the idea to the author :) ) . Thanks one more time for all the positive feedback, I did my best and used the possibilities my workshop gives me. I bet this build when it comes to costs reached commercial available eboards price level (And I, fool, thought it'll be cheaper than getting ready one :D ) but I think it outperformes most of them and Iearned a lot (and that is priceless :wink: ).
 
Great Build this is the reason i dont post my build. Your DYI Build shames me.;P just amazing
 
That is beautiful. Impressive skill and execution - my hats off to you!

Looks better than most commercial/pro offerings...

Would love to see more detail on your anti-spark mosfet power switch and flat wire between the cases!
 
The mosfet switch is based on scheme I found on the internet (attachment) (https://www.alexrc.pl/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=10034&start=63 link to thread in polish, there is smd pcb layout, mine was similiar) I used 4 parallel connected IRFS7430-7PPBF mosfets, soldered on separate board on 1mm thick copper "trace" I machined, so this should handle very high currents. I'll post pics on weekend. The flat wire isn't actually "wire", it's 10 mm wide strip of 1mm thick copper sheet, covered by shrink tube, mounted using super-extra-strenght double sided mounting tape :wink: I decided that the board isn't flexing that much to cause any material fatigue to break them (and it's 10mm^2 of almost pure copper, at cross section, super low resistance).
 

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I would mistake that board for a boosted. All you need is some boosted grip tape :D

Did you mould those enclosures from the original boosted enclosure? Did you have a boosted before this build?

Very professional build.
 
Really nice.
What's the small hole on the steel part of the motor mount for? I guess it could protect. Or maybe they helped with the manufacture? All I can guess
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Really nice.
What's the small hole on the steel part of the motor mount for? I guess it could protect. Or maybe they helped with the manufacture? All I can guess


In the images there is a shot here... looks likes its for structural support/spacing and possibly to protect from impact.

r36dGUA.png
 
Squad said:
The mosfet switch is based on scheme I found on the internet (attachment) (https://www.alexrc.pl/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=10034&start=63 link to thread in polish, there is smd pcb layout, mine was similiar) I used 4 parallel connected IRFS7430-7PPBF mosfets, soldered on separate board on 1mm thick copper "trace" I machined, so this should handle very high currents. I'll post pics on weekend. The flat wire isn't actually "wire", it's 10 mm wide strip of 1mm thick copper sheet, covered by shrink tube, mounted using super-extra-strenght double sided mounting tape :wink: I decided that the board isn't flexing that much to cause any material fatigue to break them (and it's 10mm^2 of almost pure copper, at cross section, super low resistance).

Great built !
Very interrested by your antispark design.
The schematic you show has only two FETs right ?
If you would agree to share the 4 FET schematic and/or the PCB design, I'd love to make one for my board !!
 
akiraEC said:
Great built !
Very interrested by your antispark design.
The schematic you show has only two FETs right ?
If you would agree to share the 4 FET schematic and/or the PCB design, I'd love to make one for my board !!

First of all it's not my antispark switch design :wink:, I made the pcb using laser printer and chalk paper, heat transfered the trace-mask with iron, then etched it with ferric chloride. I added 2 more FET's parallel to those two on the scheme, BUT now I would just buy one high current FET like IXFN200N07 (the same price range as my 4 FET's). If You're interested I have .pdf traces layout for the boards I built, write PM if You want it.

Thanks onloop!
 
Sick build man. You've got me looking at mills now :lol: I was curious what thickness kydex you are using for your enclosures. Again...just awesome.
 
Awesome build. Maybe you can place those pulleys on a Bridgeport and cut a bit so you can place a bearing exactly as boosted so there is no movement and the wheels pull straight.
If you run it like that without the bearings the wheels will wobble after 6-8 months.
 
206monkey32 said:
Sick build man. You've got me looking at mills now :lol: I was curious what thickness kydex you are using for your enclosures. Again...just awesome.

Kydex is pretty thin, it's either 1,5 mm or 2 mm thick. As one of pictures shows I glued G10 reinforcements in places where screws hold the enclousures against the deck. Overall I think that's even better that they can flex with deck.

Silenthunter said:
Awesome build. Maybe you can place those pulleys on a Bridgeport and cut a bit so you can place a bearing exactly as boosted so there is no movement and the wheels pull straight.
If you run it like that without the bearings the wheels will wobble after 6-8 months.

Good point, this may be a weak point of this additional bearing-free solution, I'll se how this turns out in longer term, I use bear spaceballs bearings, and they have longer inner ring that acts as half of a spacer per bearing and I screwed on the wheel nuts very tight, maybe kegels will withstand...
 
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