DIY Boosted inspired electric longboard

Lightweight / Folding / Portable EVs - seats optional
bbcane78
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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Dec 30, 2015 9:05 pm

Squad wrote:For balancing if You plan to go 7S, like me, You need 8-way plug and socket (if 8S-> 9-way, etc...), so the balancing cable is 8-way cable too, the jst balancing connector is also 8 pin JST-HX female one. For charging I bought 2-way plug and socket, it was available when I ordered (http://www.distrelec.biz). The screw in caps were not right ones, the thread was different, caps had m16x1,5 thread, the socket M16x0,75, I lost one riding and don't use caps any more, BUT if You'll look at binder offer, they have protective caps, screw in or just plug ones.

Good luck!
Hi Squad, just looking back at your pictures and I was wondering how you attached the ESC, batteries and covers to the board without drilling holes through the board? Also what flat wiring did you use to attach the ESC and batteries, it looks really good the way you have it done.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Dec 31, 2015 4:25 am

Battery and esc, are mounted on a strong double-sided tape, as well as flat "wires" (it's a 10mm wide strip cut out of 1mm thick copper sheet, covered by heat shrink tube). You can see that the enclosures are held by M4 screws, there are milled holes in the deck (about 1mm of material is left) and threaded inserts for wood are screwed in there.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Dec 31, 2015 1:33 pm

Squad wrote:Battery and esc, are mounted on a strong double-sided tape, as well as flat "wires" (it's a 10mm wide strip cut out of 1mm thick copper sheet, covered by heat shrink tube). You can see that the enclosures are held by M4 screws, there are milled holes in the deck (about 1mm of material is left) and threaded inserts for wood are screwed in there.
I am not the best with woodwork so I probably wont mill the deck, will probably just use double sided tape or epoxy to attach the enclosure, and figure out a way to still get to the encasement inside.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Jan 01, 2016 4:43 pm

bbcane78 wrote:I am not the best with woodwork so I probably wont mill the deck, will probably just use double sided tape or epoxy to attach the enclosure, and figure out a way to still get to the encasement inside.
May work with stiff deck, but I'm afraid it won"t with flexy one. And it won't be easy to get access to battery ESC etc. You may as well use normal drill, I used square endmill because thickness of a deck was only about 1-2mm more than lenght of threaded wood insert and I wanted the hole to have flat bottom instead of tapered one.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 01, 2016 6:39 pm

Squad wrote:
bbcane78 wrote:I am not the best with woodwork so I probably wont mill the deck, will probably just use double sided tape or epoxy to attach the enclosure, and figure out a way to still get to the encasement inside.
May work with stiff deck, but I'm afraid it won"t with flexy one. And it won't be easy to get access to battery ESC etc. You may as well use normal drill, I used square endmill because thickness of a deck was only about 1-2mm more than lenght of threaded wood insert and I wanted the hole to have flat bottom instead of tapered one.
I will ask someone who is better with woodwork than to do it for me, I have a rayne nemesis and am just worried about snapping it. It is an expensive deck and I like it quite a bit. It is .5 inches thick or 12.7mm i found on a website, the vanguard is only 9.5 so if I used the supplies you used I should have plenty of space left if i use the 4mm screws with threaded inserts, correct? Also did you have to glue the inserts in the board? How do they stay when you screw and unscrew the enclosure on and off?

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Jan 02, 2016 3:27 pm

bbcane78 wrote:I will ask someone who is better with woodwork than to do it for me, I have a rayne nemesis and am just worried about snapping it. It is an expensive deck and I like it quite a bit. It is .5 inches thick or 12.7mm i found on a website, the vanguard is only 9.5 so if I used the supplies you used I should have plenty of space left if i use the 4mm screws with threaded inserts, correct? Also did you have to glue the inserts in the board? How do they stay when you screw and unscrew the enclosure on and off?
I found 8mm long M4 threaded inserts, it remains intacted when firmly screwed into the deck, without any glue. With almost 13mm thick deck You have enough material left to drill with normal drill bit for wood (brad point), blind hole and to be able to use threaded insert. Just mark required depth with tape on a drill bit and You're ready to go.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 02, 2016 11:25 pm

Thanks, I am also debating weather to get the APS 120A ESC or VESC. I was going through the FAQ for VESC and saw some people has issues with getting their boards burnt due to shortages and other issues because it has no protective casing. And I read that i should install a fuse on it to prevent short circuits. I only read this on one post but it is concerning to me now. What would you recommend, I am only using one motor so the dual feature on the APS wouldn't really be in use but it would be nice to have in the case of me changing up the setup in the future.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Jan 03, 2016 8:08 am

bbcane78 wrote:Thanks, I am also debating weather to get the APS 120A ESC or VESC. I was going through the FAQ for VESC and saw some people has issues with getting their boards burnt due to shortages and other issues because it has no protective casing. And I read that i should install a fuse on it to prevent short circuits. I only read this on one post but it is concerning to me now. What would you recommend, I am only using one motor so the dual feature on the APS wouldn't really be in use but it would be nice to have in the case of me changing up the setup in the future.
Get VESC, fuse is used to protect the VESC itself if anything fails, You have a chance to just burn the FETs and after replacing them get it running again, shorting circuit is usually just human factor, pay attention to what You're doing and everything should be fine :wink: You can isolate PCB with silicone or just heat shrink tube (heat shrink is a must in my opinion).

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 03, 2016 2:23 pm

Squad wrote:
bbcane78 wrote:Thanks, I am also debating weather to get the APS 120A ESC or VESC. I was going through the FAQ for VESC and saw some people has issues with getting their boards burnt due to shortages and other issues because it has no protective casing. And I read that i should install a fuse on it to prevent short circuits. I only read this on one post but it is concerning to me now. What would you recommend, I am only using one motor so the dual feature on the APS wouldn't really be in use but it would be nice to have in the case of me changing up the setup in the future.
Get VESC, fuse is used to protect the VESC itself if anything fails, You have a chance to just burn the FETs and after replacing them get it running again, shorting circuit is usually just human factor, pay attention to what You're doing and everything should be fine :wink: You can isolate PCB with silicone or just heat shrink tube (heat shrink is a must in my opinion).
Awesome, thanks for your help! I would want to add a fuse just in case of an error that I am sure I would make at some point, I am also getting a watt meter to monitor the board readings. Just checking, do I put the watt meter between the batteries and ESC correct? Also the fuse would go there too? I saw a chart someone put up of their fuse between the esc and motor but it seemed strange to me, maybe some people put them in both spots. I am buying 4 5000mAh 3S1P 20C batteries and am running them as 2 5000mAh 6S batteries. Since each battery can get a cont 100A and burst 150A I am wondering what this would mean for the VESC because it can do a cont 50A and a burst of 240A. When programming the VESC are their options to not draw as much power as the batteries can give? Also I dont really know of any good fuses for VESC's so if you know of any feel free to share, I am still looking around for some.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Jan 03, 2016 4:51 pm

bbcane78 wrote: Awesome, thanks for your help! I would want to add a fuse just in case of an error that I am sure I would make at some point, I am also getting a watt meter to monitor the board readings. Just checking, do I put the watt meter between the batteries and ESC correct? Also the fuse would go there too? I saw a chart someone put up of their fuse between the esc and motor but it seemed strange to me, maybe some people put them in both spots. I am buying 4 5000mAh 3S1P 20C batteries and am running them as 2 5000mAh 6S batteries. Since each battery can get a cont 100A and burst 150A I am wondering what this would mean for the VESC because it can do a cont 50A and a burst of 240A. When programming the VESC are their options to not draw as much power as the batteries can give? Also I dont really know of any good fuses for VESC's so if you know of any feel free to share, I am still looking around for some.
The battery C rating is almost always exagerrated, if You can get something higher rated, it will last longer. Also take the advantage that VESC gives, go with higher voltage (like 12S), lower ampacity, it's a little bit more efficient, no need to use super-thick wires. Yep, put the wattmeter and fuse between battery and ESC (any car fuse rated for the ampacity a little bit above planned in Your circuit will be fine). You can limit VESC amp draw when programming it, but it probably never will go any near standard 50A setting.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 03, 2016 5:09 pm

Squad wrote:
bbcane78 wrote: Awesome, thanks for your help! I would want to add a fuse just in case of an error that I am sure I would make at some point, I am also getting a watt meter to monitor the board readings. Just checking, do I put the watt meter between the batteries and ESC correct? Also the fuse would go there too? I saw a chart someone put up of their fuse between the esc and motor but it seemed strange to me, maybe some people put them in both spots. I am buying 4 5000mAh 3S1P 20C batteries and am running them as 2 5000mAh 6S batteries. Since each battery can get a cont 100A and burst 150A I am wondering what this would mean for the VESC because it can do a cont 50A and a burst of 240A. When programming the VESC are their options to not draw as much power as the batteries can give? Also I dont really know of any good fuses for VESC's so if you know of any feel free to share, I am still looking around for some.
The battery C rating is almost always exagerrated, if You can get something higher rated, it will last longer. Also take the advantage that VESC gives, go with higher voltage (like 12S), lower ampacity, it's a little bit more efficient, no need to use super-thick wires. Yep, put the wattmeter and fuse between battery and ESC (any car fuse rated for the ampacity a little bit above planned in Your circuit will be fine). You can limit VESC amp draw when programming it, but it probably never will go any near standard 50A setting.
Does the higher voltage give you better acceleration? What is the difference really, I get the discharge rate and capacity but I am confused as to the importance of having such a high voltage. Also the motor I am getting says it has a 10s lipo voltage: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... Motor.html
So would using 12s even work?

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Jan 03, 2016 6:34 pm

Higher voltage generates less heat in switchng fets, because to generate the same power when compared to lower voltage config, the current is lower. Acceleration depends on torque, which depends on motor KV and gearing, it's not straight forward relation, with the same KV motor increasing voltage will increase Your max speed. The best motor KV for 12S is below 200 KV (Benjamin Vedder wrote somewhere nice and backed with his knowledge text how to choose right motor and gearing for electric vehicle) If You ordered 10S motor then go 10S with battery, it'll be more efficient than 6S, and the battery amp draw will be lower.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by torqueboards » Jan 03, 2016 7:15 pm

@bbcane78 - If you wanted to add a fuse, I believe you can add in a 40A or 50A inline fuse on the positive wire between battery and ESC. Although, not positive.

Higher voltage does give better acceleration. Higher voltage will reach higher watts quicker due to more power so you use less amps in the process. Low voltage and to reach higher watts you need more amps so your setup will use more amps to reach the same watts.

Most 50mm and 63mm motors will run on 12S perfectly fine. We typically don't run our boards as hard as RC Cars.
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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 03, 2016 8:32 pm

Using this as an on off switch, would it also work as a fuse in the case of a short? http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-AMP-12V-DC- ... 0474856510

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Trbt555 » Jan 04, 2016 1:52 am

It depends on the weakest link in your circuit.
A fuse is meant to protect your components.
Can your weakest component cope with 200A just before the fuse blows ?
Shred.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 04, 2016 2:55 am

Trbt555 wrote:It depends on the weakest link in your circuit.
A fuse is meant to protect your components.
Can your weakest component cope with 200A just before the fuse blows ?
The VESC can reach 250 for a few seconds but my motors max current says its 70A. But I think the VESC protects the motor correct?

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by randyc1 » Jan 05, 2016 12:19 am

Hi Squad , would you happen to have more info on how you built your Wheel Gears Hubs ?

15mm wide wheel gears seem very hard to find !

Thanks.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Jan 05, 2016 8:35 am

randyc1 wrote:Hi Squad , would you happen to have more info on how you built your Wheel Gears Hubs ?

15mm wide wheel gears seem very hard to find !

Thanks.
If You have access to mill with rotary table and lathe, then look for something like htd 3m 15mm 48 teeth pulley. You'll have to bore it to fit over the hanger, also drill and tap holes.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 05, 2016 3:53 pm

Squad wrote:
randyc1 wrote:Hi Squad , would you happen to have more info on how you built your Wheel Gears Hubs ?

15mm wide wheel gears seem very hard to find !

Thanks.
If You have access to mill with rotary table and lathe, then look for something like htd 3m 15mm 48 teeth pulley. You'll have to bore it to fit over the hanger, also drill and tap holes.
I am planning on soldering my batteries to XT90 connectors and making a harness that will connect the 3 batteries together to one XT90 port so I can take the batteries in and out of the series with ease. And put the two series packs together with this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=63485.
I am concerned about using 10AWG throughout, I am wondering if you think it would be a problem or if I should use a different gauge wire in certain parts of my harness. Just concerned because you use 8AWG and only were using 7S2P. The batteries are 10AWG and so is the parallel harness so I would think it would work but if not please let me know. I added a picture of what I intent to do and connect those parts with the item in the link.
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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Squad » Jan 06, 2016 6:28 am

bbcane78 wrote: I am planning on soldering my batteries to XT90 connectors and making a harness that will connect the 3 batteries together to one XT90 port so I can take the batteries in and out of the series with ease. And put the two series packs together with this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=63485.
I am concerned about using 10AWG throughout, I am wondering if you think it would be a problem or if I should use a different gauge wire in certain parts of my harness. Just concerned because you use 8AWG and only were using 7S2P. The batteries are 10AWG and so is the parallel harness so I would think it would work but if not please let me know. I added a picture of what I intent to do and connect those parts with the item in the link.
I think that 8AWG may be overkill for the current that will flow in the circuit (higher voltage, less amps to get the same power). 10 AWG should be fine. So from what I can see, You're going for 9S2P set up, connection scheme looks fine.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 06, 2016 7:12 pm

Squad wrote:
bbcane78 wrote: I am planning on soldering my batteries to XT90 connectors and making a harness that will connect the 3 batteries together to one XT90 port so I can take the batteries in and out of the series with ease. And put the two series packs together with this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=63485.
I am concerned about using 10AWG throughout, I am wondering if you think it would be a problem or if I should use a different gauge wire in certain parts of my harness. Just concerned because you use 8AWG and only were using 7S2P. The batteries are 10AWG and so is the parallel harness so I would think it would work but if not please let me know. I added a picture of what I intent to do and connect those parts with the item in the link.
I think that 8AWG may be overkill for the current that will flow in the circuit (higher voltage, less amps to get the same power). 10 AWG should be fine. So from what I can see, You're going for 9S2P set up, connection scheme looks fine.
I am going to go with 8AWG just to be safe, and when I spoke with someone else they advised I use 8. I am concerned though with using 8AWG if I can still use a watt meter that has 12AWG or would I have to remove the wires and solder on the 8AWG.
http://www.amazon.com/GT-Power-Analyzer ... B00C1BZSYO
I plan to use this one but if their is an issue with the amount of amps it allows or with something else I can look elsewhere. I also saw some that had 8AWG but they were 180A and more expensive than I would like to spend.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by torqueboards » Jan 06, 2016 8:50 pm

You don't need 8awg... 12awg is fine. 10awg at the most.
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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 06, 2016 9:02 pm

torqueboards wrote:You don't need 8awg... 12awg is fine. 10awg at the most.
So would I be alright with using XT60 connectors and not XT90? And how do I go about connecting the 10AWG to the watt meter that is using 12AWG? Will just using a simple XT60 connector work in this case?

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by Trbt555 » Jan 07, 2016 9:33 am

XT60 connectors will not be a problem.
I did something very similar on my build:
Image
XT90's are huge, I just used one for the loop key.
I used 5.5mm bullet connectors to connect my wattmeter but you could also use an XT60.
If you're planning on using a VESC, beware that these wattmeters don't seem to cope well with the inverse current due to regenerative braking, mine is already acting up after only 3 test rides.
Shred.

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Re: DIY Electro-Trampa and boosted inspired electric longboa

Post by bbcane78 » Jan 07, 2016 2:11 pm

Trbt555 wrote:XT60 connectors will not be a problem.
I did something very similar on my build:
Image
XT90's are huge, I just used one for the loop key.
I used 5.5mm bullet connectors to connect my wattmeter but you could also use an XT60.
If you're planning on using a VESC, beware that these wattmeters don't seem to cope well with the inverse current due to regenerative braking, mine is already acting up after only 3 test rides.
So what would you advise for a wattmeter with using the VESC?

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