Razor e200? repair/modification

Hey y'all... I picked up a slightly defunct e200 (I think) and the thing has a busted "controller" (really it's just a relay w/some extra bits. The shitty sla batteries seem ok, and the motor checks out. I have a brushed controller from one of those tnc type scooters but I'm not sure if it works and someone lopped the connectors off. I found the color call out on the wiring so I'm pretty sure I can fake my way into hooking up the throttle correctly. The question is do I go that far with this symptom:

The motor out put reads roughly 2v when I plug it into a 24v battery. Shouldn't it read zero??

If this means a fried controller I'm going to be looking for brushed controller between 250 and 350 watts and can PayPal you some dollars for one.

dequinox said:

The motor out put reads roughly 2v when I plug it into a 24v battery. Shouldn't it read zero??

Click to expand...

What does the throttle input signal read? If it's not zero, then that is probably why there is output at the motor wires.

amberwolf said:

dequinox said:

The motor out put reads roughly 2v when I plug it into a 24v battery. Shouldn't it read zero??

Click to expand...

What does the throttle input signal read? If it's not zero, then that is probably why there is output at the motor wires.

Click to expand...

There was no throttle hooked up when I tested it. It is a CT-201C6 controller available at a lot of scooter parts websites.

See photo for current... "status" of the wiring:

dequinox said:

amberwolf said:

dequinox said:

The motor out put reads roughly 2v when I plug it into a 24v battery. Shouldn't it read zero??

Click to expand...

What does the throttle input signal read? If it's not zero, then that is probably why there is output at the motor wires.

Click to expand...

There was no throttle hooked up when I tested it.

Click to expand...

The question still stands.

amberwolf said:

The question still stands.

Click to expand...

I'll have to figure which ones are the throttle wires... should be easy enough. I'm at work now, but will try testing that this evening. I get a spark when I hook up the controller to the battery... I don't think that's so abnormal though.

Get two heavy duty car relays and wire a live feed up to throttle through orange and brown wires and back to relay pull throttle and the car relays will close just add your battery, motor and a fuse and you have a throttle just push to start so u don't pull loads of amps, I use this on my 41v lithium scooter and covered around 100 miles no issues, I use 2 80amp relays to make and brake the positive and negative with one relay on it's back the other on its side so bumping around doesnt activate them but this is a simple on off switch for motor that's all. The razor throttle has 2 contacts when its closed orange for one brown for the other so u can use a 12v feed to both brown and orange at the beginning of circuit but after the throttle keep these separate orange for one relay brown for the other, otherwise the throttle will stick on

The thing automotive relays lack is the cutoff for the brake... thought about it but I'd like to train my 3 year old on this when she's a little older and I'd like to retain the factory safeties.

I'm thinking I'll just get a replacement controller with a variable throttle. Those aren't that expensive.

Brake cutoff is easy--if the brake switch is the type that stays "on" (shorted) untl you pull the lever, just wire it in series with the relay coils.

If it's the other type, that shorts only when lever is pulled, then you could use it to control another relay setup so that the relay's "off-when-powered" output is wired in series with the other relay coils, so they are able to turn on until the lever is pulled.

I find you need a very strong relay my 80amp large relay can stick now and then even though I don't brake much over 30amp at 41v plus voltage drop my load is capable of welding the relays now and then for an extra fun ride pumping the throttle soon frees it up, I have seen solid state relays but have no experience of these I imagine they would eliminate the problem and be better with the high inductive dc load been switched on off

I ended up buying a brushed controller on ebay to replace the relay one. This will allow variable throttle w/o my having to splice nine things... maybe it's about equal work as the auto relays but I would like this to have variable throttle. $20 saves me what I view as a headache...and I don't have to wait for it from China... just TX.

I plan on putting a tool-pack battery in this... I have a bunch of Konions I tore out of makita packs recently, and plan to stick them in here in lieu of lead.

Hey man I have several motors in that range if you decide to upgrade that 200 a bit, is what I did with my 300 and I love it!!