Electric Longboard Build Help (beginner)

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Dec 19, 2015
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4
I'm a college freshman back home for the holidays (Southern California) and I've always wanted to build my own electric longboard for a winter project. After doing a couple weeks of research and reading forums, I'm ready to start buying parts—but I really want to make sure I have the right components that are compatible with each other.

I'm wondering if anyone would be willing to take a look at my parts list and tell me what you think. I'd be extremely grateful for any help I can get—especially because I'm brand new to this.

Here's my list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1DpdlOwrATxSocK_tMFF1URGoi58XzJ_X4BJB6SkWo_o/edit?usp=sharing

Notes: I don't have access to a lot of equipment besides a power drill, so no welding or machining parts for me (hence why I'm getting an enertion motor mount, even though it's a bit pricey). Also, because of my limited time I don't want to backorder any parts.
I'm hoping to order my parts in the next day or so. Thanks so much for reading, and if you do decide to give me a hand, thank you so much in advance.
 
Any recommendations for the ESC? Trying to keep my overall costs sub $500. Thanks for looking through the list, really appreciate it.
 
6S Car ESC and/or 12S VESC

I also sell a 6S Car ESC and 12S ESC.

It's worth spending the added money. If an ESC breaks on you then you'll end up having to buy another one anyways plus your safety is worth more then that as well.

Car ESC is best unless your going with the VESC.
 
6s = 22.2volts and 12s = 44.4volts. More voltage = more power and hill climbing ability.
 
2 things with your build:

I'd go with a GT2B because that transmitter and receiver has a lot of drop outs and they can cause accidents because you don't have control over the board. You could always get diyelectricskateboard.com 2.4ghz controller which is just as small and much more reliable because it's not using a bluetooth connection. Enertion and Ollin Boards are coming out with a wii nunchuck that doesn't have drop outs if you want to wait for early next year I think it is.

For a charger go with an iCharger or IMAX B6AC V2
 
Thanks for the help. How do these look:

ESC:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-Ezrun-150A-Pro-Esc-1-8-1-5-Car-Hwi81010300-/121517091330?hash=item1c4afbaa02:g:UYsAAOSwj0NUjIy


Transmitter:
http://www.amazon.com/FlySky-FS-GT2B-2-4GHz-3-Channel-Transmitter/dp/B00FS2U9BA

Receiver:
http://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-GR3E-Receiver-FS-GT2B-FS-GT3B/dp/B00IZUIHPM/ref=pd_sim_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41KLS6zIWBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DVVJ4RJ1YJZKNYFXX4X
 
Ezrun is a decent esc for rc cars, not sure on it's skateability - haven't looked. The FVT is probably the most "proven" rc car esc, or maybe I'm biased as I run 2 of them...

For those parts, there are actually some issues:

Trucks - if you are going with enertion mounts, I think you NEED the caliber trucks to fit (or the re-badged ones enertion sells). I believe the mount system here can be fitted to the paris/randal style trucks you have linked http://diyelectricskateboard.com/ Most mounts are either permanently on the truck (welded) or bolt on without modifications, just need some allen keys.

Transmitter - the transmitter should come with a receiver in the box as well, but it might depend on the retailer. The ones from hobbyking do, or as a non HK alternative the link above have by far the smallest 2.4ghz system I have seen.

Battery - This one is too small. You will kill it if you are a larger rider or hit a hill. It's a 4000mah which is a little smaller than usual, and a 10c discharge. This means it has 4000mah x 10 = 40 amp draw rating. Most people run a 5000mah and a 20c (100 amp draw). I am running a 5000mah 25c and it's better (IMO). Batteries don't struggle, barely even sag.

Wheels - These might be a little small. Check what the pulley size is that you are fitting to it, make sure you will have enough ground clearance and remember to add a few mm's to the pulley diameter for the belt thickness. Also, you will have to drill out those wheels to mount - not impossible but make sure you have it perfectly centred (use a jig, glue it down and spin it; off centre will vibrate, snap belts and sap power).
 
Hi There

Also had a look at your parts list, seems you have bought everything already?
If so I think you may have been a bit quick and may spend a lot more improving the build in the future.
Believe me I know what I'm talking about, I have been there..
I agree 100% with what bandaro said - the batteries are to weak, you will kill them quickly with that 63mm motor.
One of my boards has exactly that motor, and it is great. I am very pleased with it because of the power it has, amazing actually - but power comes ultimately from the battery and you are going to be sucking every ounce out of those 10C batteries.
Soon you are going to wish you had larger wheels. I started with 83mm which was OK but have since gone on to 97mm. Maybe not everyone's cup of tea but for me it makes all the difference.
If you are on a budget get the ABEC clone wheels - they are easy to fit gears to. (Richard at Alien Drive made me one that fits perfectly)
Also no need to drill through the wheels which may not be 100% concentric.
Transmitter GT2B is good. I, and many others, use that and it is pretty bullet proof.
I hope the mount fits those trucks, they seem a bit tapered. Hopefully you do not have to do much filing or grinding.

I hope all goes well, let us know.

Cheers
Weech
 
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