Building an Electric Longboard

Hey guys
im new to Endless-sphere, but iv had a good look over the topics and it seems everyone is really cool here and helps each other out, I don't know that much yet, but i hope to learn more and help some others out

Right down it business..
so I want to make an electric longboard and I'm quite good with tools and mechanics, its just the electrical side of all this I don't know much about, And this is the bit that makes me a bit worried about my project.
So these are the outcomes that I want my board to have:
I want it to have 2 motors
Range at least 7 miles
Top speed 20 mph, a bit more would be cool but no slower then 20 mph.
Optional, but i would like to try get it a full charge in under 2 hours
I weigh 82 KG, The ground is mainly flat but there is some slight hills and slops, Thats why i want the 2 motors, so I have enough power to do a 20% incline.

But what i don't know is how to make sure I get parts that are compatible with each other and to make sure the parts meet my required specs for the board,

So what parts/components do I need? (Please point out anything I have missed and suggest models and specs, Links swell if you're feeling generous :wink: I don't really know where to buy the parts from too, I found sites that sell kits and parts individually but they are very expensive)

Dec, Trucks, Wheels - Im ok with getting and choosing those
Motors (I was thinking to aim for around 1000W per motor, but then I'm not sure if that makes my aim for range of atlas 7 miles out of the question)-
2X Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5055-280kv Brushless Outrunner Motor
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__18175__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_5055_280kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html
Motor mounts - Still looking but i was thinking Bolt on motor mounts?
ESC - No idea
On Off switch On Off High Voltage Anti-Spark Power Switch 2-14S:
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/on-off-high-voltage-anti-spark-power-switch-2-14s/
Remote - was thinking something like this (It would be cool if i could have something that indicates battery life of the board):
http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/2-4ghz-radio-hand-controller/
Battery I saw on a page that 'turnigy 5000mAh' are good? But i have no idea? I was thinking 2 batterys so i can get the range?
Now I have no idea what more I need?

Sorry about lack on knowledge

Thanks Guys

I wouldn't use the SK3 5055-280KV. It's a damn great motor IMO especially on a dual 6s setup. I was flying on that thing. The only downside is the 6mm motor shaft. I actually snapped a 6mm motor shaft probably not likely but happens.

Also with the price of a 5055 IMO.. Might as well go 63mm as they are much more durable.

You can go HobbyKing or HobbyPartz. HobbyPartz has 63mm motors for about $55/ea. Get the 245kv option, I think.

If you go with one of the DIYElectricSkateboard.com, EnertionBoards, etc. Most of our motors are customized and have a keyway slot. The keyway slot allows you to drive more torque and the setup is of course much more durable since the torque is going through the keyway versus the set screws on a motor pulley.

Motor Mounts are usually bolt on unless you plan on welding your own.

ESC - You can go 6S Car ESC's, 12S VESC or TorqueBoards 12S ESC. Of course, 12S would allow for more upgrades in the future.

On/Off Switch - You can go with ours.. We can send you the new upgraded one once we receive our new switches. We modified Vedder's new SparkSwitch to add more copper traces and make it a bit more easier to use.

Remote - You can go with our 2.4ghz Mini Remote w/ a throttle trigger and/or Enertion's new remote.

Battery - 6S 5ah or 2x 3s 5000mah in series for 6s 5ah will get you about 5 to 7 miles. You can get multiple packs and swap packs for added range and/or move up to a 2x 6s packs for 12s 5ah which is double the power/capacity.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for such a quick reply,

so dose this look better?

So you say 2 of these for the motors:?
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__18128__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6364_245kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

ESC: would 2 of these work?
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/vesc-the-best-electric-skateboard-esc/

if not would this?
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/vesc-the-best-electric-skateboard-esc/

batteries:
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__9176__Turnigy_5000mAh_6S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html
did you say just one? and i can take one around as a spare!?

on off witch and remote i will get from you guys

Yeah, the SK3 6364 works. You'll need to dremmel or file down a flat spot and use two bolts to hold the pulley against the motor shaft.

Yes, the ESC's would work. You'll also need a CanBus connector, XT90 Parallel Cable, STLinkv2 Programmer with it.

You can use (2) 6S 5ah wired in series which would make 12S 5ah.

Or use (2) 3S 5ah for 6S 5ah. Just depends how much power you want.

ahh ok, that sounds a bit annoying, SO what do I need to change so i wouldn't have to file it down,
these are the specs for the motor: SO what do i change so it would fit?
Specs.
Turns: 14T
Voltage: 10S Lipoly
RPM/V: 245kv
Internal resistance: 0.018 Ohm
Max Loading: 70A
Max Power: 2700W
Shaft Dia: 8.0mm
Bolt holes: 32mm
Bolt thread: M4
Weight: 718g
Motor Plug: 4mm Bullet Connector

So if i go for (2) 6S 5ah wired in series which would make 12S 5ah. I was thinking of getting this to make charging easer:
Hobbyking Parallel charging Board for 6 packs 2~6S (HXT4mm)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=41306&aff=1086883

Actually its a bit more confusing then annoying.
It sounds confusing at first though.

Here is what torque is referring too (if I may)

If you look at a normal motor shaft from the front (edge-on) You will not that it is round. This is normal.
However, when we stick a pulley on the motor shaft, we DO NOT want the pulley to be loose, letting the motor shaft rotate inside the pulley. So we need a way to 'attach' the pulley to the motor shaft, so that shaft will rotate the pulley, and not just inside the pulley.

There are a few ways of doing this, (without glue)
the simplest, for those without a small dremel or CNC machine, would be to grind one or two flat spots on the 'side' of the motor shaft.

Take torqueboard's motor for example. It already comes with a pre-ground motor shaft with two flat sides AND a slot for a keyway:
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/electric-skateboard-motor-6355-230kv-2650w/

Note in the head-on picture, the shaft is NOT perfectly round. Instead its a bit more rectangular, as two sides have been filed down flat. Also, you can barely see it in the photos, but a small 'trench' has been ground out parallel in the shaft. One can then place a small aluminum bar in there, essentially making the shaft a 'key' which will slide into a pulley with a keyway

Here is one of torque's pulleys.
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/16t-htd5-motor-pulley/
Note the screw holes (one on each side) of the pulley. The screws are threaded through these, so they can grip onto those flat spots on the pulley shaft.
You can also see a little slot ground into the inside of the pulley. That is the keyway.

So really, you don't have to change the MOTOR,
all you need to do is to grind a flat spot or two on your motor with a grinder or somthin', and find a pulley with a set-screw that you can screw down onto the motor shaft.


(Sorry for the 'baby talk' I have no idea how much experience with E-boards you have, and would rather I type one thing once, then repeatedly type something on one thing I did not clarify the first time :wink: )
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For my last build I just took a angle grinder and ground a good flat spot on my 280kv Turnigy motor.


Torqueboards has done a great job on making their motors and motor pulleys, and how they made them so compatible. For my current build (Dual motor longboard running 12S) I am using their motors (perfect KV for my build) along with their pulleys, which saves me some time in grinding a flat spot on a motor shaft, PLUS adding a keyway for additional pull strength!

Thanks torque!
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Correct, you got the wiring in series down, and looks like that charge board will work!

Curious about which charger you plan on using.

A REALLLLLYYYY Good source of information on LiPo battries, wiring, charging, discharging, and the like can be found here:
http://www.rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/

If you have random time to spare, that would probably be an interesting and educational read. It really cleared things concerning LiPos for me when I first started.

Enjoy!

Nice job CoolRextreme

@OP - The flat spot doesn't have to be completely straight. It's mainly there because if you have a set screw on a circular motor shaft. Due to the torque it will rock back and forth and the set screw/bolt will get stuck/jammed or loosen. With a flat spot and a M4 bolt against it. It will only push back on a flat spot.

Thanks coolrextreme, that was explained perfectly, Im new to electric longboards, but Iv read loads of posts and I'm getting the hang of it!
That all makes sense now
Im going to get a load of parts from dielectric... but i was trying to find some motors slightly cheaper,

awesome that the charge board will work!

charger wise I was thinking:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9005&aff=1086883
with
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17424__HobbyKing_350w_25A_Power_Supply_220v_240v_.html

I will take a read of that now, thanks so much, i really want to understand more about how the batteries work and how to work out what motors are powerful enough with the batterys!

Brilliant thanks Torqueboards, you have been so helpfull, i really appreciate it