Stand up faggio EV 3.7kw 16s

Ianhill

1 MW
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Sep 25, 2015
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2,871

As picture above but with off road tyres.
My plan is to take a stock 48v brushless scooter and swap out or improve the drivetrain to make it a little faster but not too power hungry around 2700w, I will be using lipo cells at 20s 84v 16ah for a 1.3kw hour pack so should be good for around 30miles or a hour of blasting about up the mountain.

The parts I have so far are :-
Bidirectional shunt 120v 300A
44tooth sprocket for 4-1 gearing from 5-1
Stock motor will be rewound by myself to drop the kV
Sunwin 48-72v 1500w controller 18fet, 100v caps, the shunt is set to 58A and has bridgeable pads to set it for 84v and 4.6w max I've changed the connectors to a Xt90 (battery) and Mt60(Motor) jst (halls) I know there are more capable connectors but these are compact and more than capable of my design needs.
View attachment 1

Battery normal 4.2v lipo cells,16s is the goal I want with a fairly eco motor to get a large distance i can travel but still good speed and light enough to carry up steps etc.
 
Got the scooter home yesterday and had a potch with it today as it was sold as having a broken motor and crunching sound but all it needed was its chained tightened and brakes adjusting and it was good to go very happy with it overall its like new very little wear or abuse.
I'm thinking of making a dual motor beast, its the easiest way for me of lowering my kV l, i would have to open and pair the windings in series from 2 motors mark the output shaft on the rotors so i can time them and they will be locked togeter then when the chain is fitted so only one pair of halls will be needed to please the controller and run it off 84v with star delta switching hopefully.
 
I got one of those motors new. If your interested.

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I bought a new motor off eBay but turned out I got this one working so I have two cheers though can I interest you In the controller for your motor ?.
Got my wireless shunt today its a 300amp version but on the actual shunt itself it says 500A 75mv so it will be more than capable of the few amps I chuck at it
 
Wow this thing feels massive compared to my razor and its got like half the torque with a far from progresive throttle jerking about everywhere and it used about the same power and took the same time to cover my normal 13 mile trip so the gains are very minimal, makes me see how good my razor is now but this has potential just needs tapping into, first to go is the controller its pants swap that out tomorrow and go from there.
 
awesome looking scooter, i bet that will be good off road. looking forward to see how this turns out :D.
 
Here's mine.
dbb488ac1fb5cbc5f68e88729fad69b8.jpg


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Lyen 12fet controller. Clocks 35mph. 40 downhill. Has a radio. My Wall-E headlights. Made for motorcycle lights the road. The deck is hand made (wood). It have the knobbies like op. Leds horse race lights looks badass at night. And a horn. Soon will be a air horn. 48v lifepo4 pack 20ah.

Ooo and I painted it like that so it's unique.

PS: I change bearings often and I only way 120ish lbs. It's the speed that kills them ill make my own thread soon I'm going to change a few things.

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Thats a nice build spec, I think I'll follow your design a bit on the deck and I'm going to add a magnetic catch at the rear to stop it opening slightly when I get air.
I think if I can get to 40 on the flat I'll be happy and I know I said I'll go 20s at the beginning of the thread but after riding it my intuition says 16s lipo may be the sweet spot after a cooling mod im cooking up to the case.
I find the front drifts about alot at speed ive had a close call already on a hump back bridge, So I'm going to experiment a bit rearrange it so the wheel sits forward 2more inch's so it moves the scooters pivot point and give it a try.
My razor feels bang on at speed put your weight were its needed and its good sharp turning this is like a bucking bronco at the moment needs some work.
 
Yep I've hit a bump in the road at about 20mph and went flying. (Broke my wrist)

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They not the best designed machine the front setup is terrible it flops at the headset bearing and the folding point for a double flexy ride the suspension makes things much worse I find specially if its set up soft its just springs back no damping.
I've got a few mods for the front I'll put a few pics of what ive done, I'm taking the folding mech off and welding it on direct its just dangourous there's very little meat holding it all together one big hit and the front will collapse and I'm moving the wheel forward a bit and make it feel all sturdy no flex.
The rear seams OK when its suspension is at max just a bit squeaky but ive seen a fix for that grease them and flip them 180 so the grease can't run out.
 
Ianhill said:
They not the best designed machine the front setup is terrible it flops at the headset bearing and the folding point for a double flexy ride the suspension makes things much worse I find specially if its set up soft its just springs back no damping.
I've got a few mods for the front I'll put a few pics of what ive done, I'm taking the folding mech off and welding it on direct its just dangourous there's very little meat holding it all together one big hit and the front will collapse and I'm moving the wheel forward a bit and make it feel all sturdy no flex.
The rear seams OK when its suspension is at max just a bit squeaky but ive seen a fix for that grease them and flip them 180 so the grease can't run out.


on the one i had the u shape steel bit the locking bolt dropped into had worn. so i had to weld it up and it was never perfect. the handle bars had a good 2/4in movement front the back. and it reduced the the ground clearance aswell on the front bit you stand on in the back posistion.
 
I had a zipper 500w no suspension few years ago and that was bad enough lots of flexy bits but it was a easy fix to just take the fold mech off and bolt it solid, this one looks lethal a small pin 8mm thick that take all the weight and it can move about on that a few mil so the bracket hits that with force and dents and bends it and it can not be removed as easy as my zipper but I still have the zipper front end so I will swap the necks over and weld it direct won't move one bit then hopefully.
 
The front end definitely needs work. I don't want to weld mine solid because I fold it occasionally

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I have managed to tighten the bottom of the bearing cup, remove the lock nut and fit another bearing cup on back to back then the aluminium bracket goes on with the through bolt very snuggly so the bearing cup can not back off then the lock nut fits on underneath the bracket so there's no spare threads left and all is tight just need to sort the bearings now I will test it with out a bearing holder just greased bearings I need to get a better fit as the bearings crunch and allow travel even when tight at the moment.
I have also flipped the two front fork side plates 180° and redrilled the disc brake attachment holes it gives the affect of the front wheel being one inch lower and further forward, after a test run it felt a lot more stable but I think the off road wheels are very flat so they are suited more to a 4 wheeled vehicle than a 2 so I will order some 90/65 6.5 front and 110/50 6.5 rear minimoto tyres and hopefully it will stop the front straying about make it a more pleasurable ride.
View attachment 1
 
I'll be interested in the tires if you don't want them.

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I suppose they would be available for £10 for the pair with no tubes, very good condition too don't think they have done a skid ever.
You know it would ride much nicer mind with a mini moto treaded tyre set if its used on tarmac and dust roads.
 
Is that with shipping. I'm in the states.

I messaged you.

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Fitted the new controller to the side of the battery bay with the connectors facing the rear, this way I can shorten the motor cable by more than 3/4s so that will drastically improve its current handling ability.
I have fitted the shunt as close too the load (controller) as possible so it reads as accurate as possible with the main conductors as short as possible.
This shunt can be used wireless or wired, in wired mode the usb cable acts as a data lead rather than sending a signal for anayslsis so the cable can be long or short and it won't make the readings inaccurate and is more robust interference wise over wireless mode making it much better than my previous volt current meter, it can also control a relay for high low voltage and over current with time delay and battery's gauge very good little meter.
I have also fitted a air intake fan for cooling the battery bay I will put a cover on this and make sure it is blowing out of the case, I will be using one battery pack to power everything on this scooter rather than using 2 separate systems.
Ive also changed the stand to a razor style one as the standard one on this was flimsy design.
The voltage control knob on the controller will be going soon and I will be fitting a small axial fan inside there not to high tech as I won't be pushing the current to high but for the motor I will be using a blower radial fan directly mounted on the side sucking direct on the case and dumping towards the back wheel in already turbulent air so I will have 3 fans in total then and running 16s 16ah multistars.
 

I could see 2 potential problems with my scooters standard setup
No1 getting a wide input voltage range from my batterys and converting it into a efficent voltage drop for my lv items .
No2 The handlebar mains switch is switching battery voltage to turn my controller on so I want low voltage sent to the handle bars.
I have decided to use a wide range dc step down converter 18-75v to 5v dc 15amp 90% efficiency and can be trimmed up 10% and down 20% so it can imatate a 1s battery with a 3.2k 1/4w resistor on the sence line, then it will directly power my lighting and switching on of the relay for the controller on off, then I will use a 15w dc step up to convert 5v to 12v to power my battery bay cooling fans, motor blower fan and shunt gauge, both converters will have enough load on them then to be in a high efficient state.
I will send the 12v to my shunt gauge to power it external because I'm not sure on its internal converters efficiencys or if it will show its power usage if i used it in internal power mode, so I will power it external so I know the figure it displays I'm using is correct to battery usage and it is easyier to switch on.
I will have to add a mains switch in such a way so there is no current drain what so ever when turned off but all turns on with one beefy rocker switch to arm the 5v rail then the keys first turn activates the controller relay ( switches 16s low current) while a second relay turns on the fans and shunt gauge, then the second turn of the key does the lighting.
My controller can be used in 48-72v mode so this converter set up allows me to use the 12-18s setup and still have all my lights and fans etc function at the same brightness and fan speeds through out the discharge or cell count and switch on in the same way no fiddling.
 
I have wired up my controller, shunt gauge and dcdc convertor and few other things ive been thinking of a cheap way to do dimple die cutouts to lose a bit of weight and add some strength larger dies can be expensive specially for a set and are designed to be hydraulically pushed through no problem but I will try wind a large socket in a pre cutout hole while heating with a torch and try my best not to split the metal once i succeeded in make some new uprights to suit the dual motors ill then cut the rear apart and swap them over weld it all back up and powder coat it fit some nicer chainstays, a 38 tooth rear sprocket and new chain, seem weld the battery box and powder coat this to in pink.
 


I have used a piece of 4mm hardened plastic and made a bezel to fit a voltmeter/ammeter as pictured above and then a simple bike speedometer display underneath it wired direct from the controllers hall signal for reference to speed.
I have wired the controller up and the DC convertor I just need to order a three speed switch and a hall sensor to repair my thumb throttle as I hate the twists and I'll be good to go at 48v then order 16s 20ah of lipo, 38tooth rear sprocket and another identical controller to push it into its mk2 phase then with the dual motors and around 4.5kw.
 
Short vid of the motor spinning up on 48v with the sunwin controller with speed set to max for some reason on max setting it sound like it has a rev limiter but not on low or med anyone now why [youtube]PPSvlvHVrQs[/youtube]/
Edit
After a quick run on the stand there seems to be reverse current going through the shunt gauge so theres regen when off throttle as well as when lo braking so hopefully I will have increased the speed and efficiency one things for sure it sounds alot faster.
Make a new battery series connector and refit the deck and go for a test run.
 
Motor seems faster than mine. Hmm. What's that controller rated at. The Rev limit noise is a sign your sending to much current. Mine did that and I had to cut down the current.

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