Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Lightweight / Folding / Portable EVs - seats optional

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Sat Dec 24, 2016 6:20 am

The 80-100 is a dead stick. I slammed it down on the concrete floor tonight and smashed it to bits. I never got it wound, never got the stator removed. I was working on the shaft so that the bell where it transfers power to the shaft would hold up. It originally had 2 tiny set screws holding them together which were insufficient to the job. I tapped four holes in the bell for 6-32 set screws and then also drilled the shaft for 6-32 threads. Being uber careful, I snapped off a tap in the shaft...not once but twice. Then I cut off the end of the shaft since it had broken off taps in it. I then started again and did the same thing again except this time, I had the bell on the shaft and completely screwed that up too...at that point after hours of careful effort and failing over and over, I finally lost it and slammed the thing on the floor. GRRRRR! Time for a new motor. frock!!!
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby Ianhill » Sat Dec 24, 2016 4:41 pm

Ah tamping fella enjoy your poison and have a merry Xmas
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Tue Dec 27, 2016 11:29 am

Doesn't happen often, but I def feel stupid afterwards.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Sat Dec 31, 2016 11:18 am

I bought an Alien Power C80100 outrunner with hall sensors built in and 80kv. The 80-100 I wrecked was at 130kv. I was going to rewind it for a little lower Kv since the stator teeth weren't very full. Anyway, 80kv ought to do just fine. The new motor will be here in a week or so. This motor is rated for 6000 watts. That's gonna be awesome on such a small platform! I'll have to cut off the end of the motor shaft coming out the top of the motor bell. There's a small adapter plate with 4 holes that comes with the motor for mounting a prop to top of the bell. I'll probably use it to give a little more support to the bell to shaft connection by running an 8-32 set screw through it and into the shaft end. I intend to run from the shaft out the bottom of the motor. The bell end will be outside the scooter and will I mount the motor similarly to how the factory motor was mounted. I have a cage that I'll put around the motor to protect it from getting bashed. I'll need to make a new mounting plate for the right side of the scooter out of some 1/4" aluminum plate.

Image


I cut up the sprocket that was on the back wheel to get at the center part of the sprocket. It has standard freewheel threads inside it so I have drilled it for the 5 hole bolt pattern that better freewheels use and the freewheel to KART adapter that Lightning Rods makes. My intention is to bolt a KART adapter to the reworked sprocket and then bolt whichever 219 wheel sprocket is appropriate for the job. I have 12, 14, 15, 16 and 18 tooth driver sprockets and 40, 50, 60, 64 and 72 tooth wheel sprockets. I probably have whatever I need for gearing and lots of 219 chain.

Image
Image
Image


I also want to convert everything to disk brakes so I have purchased 4 of these adapters for bike brake rotors. I already have the calipers from the blue scooter which will work for here. The back wheel has freewheel threads on both sides of it so the adapter will allow me to bolt a disk rotor to it. That's the easy one. The front wheel needs new bearings so I have them coming. I also need to adapt the front wheel...somehow...to take a brake rotor. I might be able to drill some holes through the hub, between the spokes to take a brake rotor. There's 12 spoke holes per side in the hub so that ought to be doable since the brake rotor had 6 bolt holes.

Image
Last edited by ElectricGod on Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:28 pm, edited 2 times in total. View post history.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Tue Jan 03, 2017 1:49 am

More work done...
I finally got enough electrical done to be able to power up the lights. It takes a bit to get this all going. There's the battery pack, then the contactor and then the power buss, then the mosfet switch, then the DC-DC converters and then all the wiring for the front end and the switches and making sure it's all connected up correctly...lots of things to possibly go wrong. Of course I tested each thing individually before connecting it all together. In testing it out, I found one wiring mistake which is impressive considering that there are two 24 position wiring blocks and an 8 position block connecting together 8 lights to 5 switches and a horn and a flasher module and brake switches and a wye/delta switch. Lots of stuff going on in this scooter.

Side lights on the battery box and down tube on separate switches.
Image

Dual 18 watt head lights.
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Directional lights on the down tube and front.
Image
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Tue Jan 03, 2017 2:02 am

On other notes, I purchased some 1/4" aluminum sheet to make a new motor bracket. I'm also looking into better wheels that have disk brake mounts on them. My existing back wheel is easily modified for a disk brake. All I have to do is cut down the drum brake rotor and drill some holes though it for a disk rotor. Or use those thread adapters for rotors. In either case, it threads onto the back wheel...easy peezy. The front wheel is the harder of them with that tiny hub. I'm waiting for the rotors to get here and then I'll figure out how to mount it.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Tue Jan 03, 2017 2:08 am

I've been working on this too. I found a long time ago that documenting the build electrical system was a great tool if there's ever a problem. This isn't the final product, but took several hours to get it to here.

Image
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Fri Jan 06, 2017 6:13 pm

Can't wait! The C80100 is on it's way. I should have it Monday.

The 1/4" aluminum sheet arrived last night. I bought a good bit more than I need for this project 24x24 and all I need right now is something 7x7. The metal was cheaper the more I bought so when it got to $70...I figured that was enough. I have enough for quite a lot of stuff now. There's been quite a few times that I wanted a piece of 1/4" aluminum and didn't have it. I should buy some 1/8" too. 1/4" is pretty much too thick to bend more than 30 degrees, but 1/8" can do 90 degrees. One of the things I want to do with the 1/4" sheet is make some motor brackets. All my existing ones are made of several pieces of 1/8" and cobbled together. A real motor bracket with screws and welds will be super strong.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Sat Jan 07, 2017 6:36 pm

I was hunting around and found that several bike part manufactures made fixed sprockets that thread onto freewheel threads. Some of them are quite solidly made. Anyway, I found this sprocket for $13. It's made of chromoly as is all machined. It's really well made. I'll use it instead of the #25 sprocket I cut apart to make into a sprocket adapter which is 100% stamped sheet metal. This is machined.

Image
Image
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby Ianhill » Sat Jan 07, 2017 7:23 pm

I like the thread on sprockets thats a great find do they come with any higher teeth count ? The alloy adapter you posted is another good find there are oset sprockets with #25 chain that will fit on that be good for a simple non pedal direct drive bmx with a few kilowatt, I've noticed builds advancing fast and more cool stuff on the way its a very busy start to 2017.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:29 pm

I tried to drill that sprocket for a 5 hole pattern to take an adapter for KART. The steel is hardened. I dulled 3 bits trying to drill a single hole and barely put a dent in the metal. They come in whatever tooth count you want, but they are bike chain only. I'm using it to adapt freewheel threads to a KART adapter so I can use 219 on everything. I intend to grind the teeth off of it.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Mon Jan 09, 2017 2:45 am

A friend of mine has a mill and carbide cutters so I gave him that sprocket to drill. I've given him other parts before that I couldn't drill. He will get it done for me.

More work done...

I prototyped the motor bracket in cardboard. This is the second iteration which is pretty much exactly what I need. There's some minor details to work out. The elongated slot on the aluminum is for the motor shaft so I can slide the motor up or down a little to take up chain slack. In the cardboard version is a second elongated slot for the part in the third pic which is a chain tensioner. It's essentially a couple of washers and a bearing on a 10mm bolt. The bolt will go through the longer slot and allow me to slide it forward or backward a little to suck up chain slack. Despite it being steel chain on a steel bearing, there's very little noise from it. The motor will be here tomorrow and then I can cut elongated slots for the motor bolts. I will then also cut the slot for the tensioner. I'll also round the front corners a little once the rest of the slots are cut.

Image
Image
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby Ianhill » Mon Jan 09, 2017 6:16 pm

A magnetic drill press is on my list of shed tools they are handy because they are mobile'ish and the most stubborn materials are normally magnetic, I'm undecided on what to build next i may just stick with the faggio scooter and drop a 2000w 48v in there and run it 20s 4.3kw on the trapiz controller, it would need a new dc-dc converter, connectors and wiring upgrade, 1 more 4s 16000mah lipo and 219 sprockets and treaded tyres, it would have 20s16ah multistar and 20s 10ah graphene then it would be a bad bitch if I solder the shunt up.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Tue Jan 10, 2017 3:08 am

Ianhill wrote:A magnetic drill press is on my list of shed tools they are handy because they are mobile'ish and the most stubborn materials are normally magnetic, I'm undecided on what to build next i may just stick with the faggio scooter and drop a 2000w 48v in there and run it 20s 4.3kw on the trapiz controller, it would need a new dc-dc converter, connectors and wiring upgrade, 1 more 4s 16000mah lipo and 219 sprockets and treaded tyres, it would have 20s16ah multistar and 20s 10ah graphene then it would be a bad bitch if I solder the shunt up.



Upgrade until you reach whatever is the best a platform can be and then move to a new one. I stopped further development on my blue scooter for that reason. I was quite content with how it performed and how it rode. More would have been frivolous. If your scooter is all it can be in your heart and mind, then leave it be, but if you feel that you can do more and make it perform even better, then by all means you should.

I use this DC-DC converter at 82 volts in my blue scooter. It has worked very reliably. There are 3 components inside that limit what its maximum voltage can be. There's a filter capacitor, small switching power supply for the control chip and a schottky rectifier. They are all good for 120 volts max so anything under 100 volts is just fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/converter-adapt ... 211215a7f8

I have one of these, but it's not being used in anything yet. It's spec'd at 120 volts, butI have never taken it apart to look at the components inside to know for sure what it can handle. It's a good bit larger than the previous converter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/electric-36v-48 ... 21126930d8


What's the maximum voltage your controller can handle? If you do solder over the current limiting shunt inside the controller, you risk burning out the mosfets. Most Chinese controllers have just enough mosfets in them for whatever they are rated for. Quite commonly they are cheap Chinese mosfets too, so consider replacing them with IRF4110 mosfets before you over amp it. That or run it more than its rated current and then have spare mosfets on hand for when they burn out. Be sure to reinforce all the power traces. I use 14 awg solid core wire for reinforcing power traces.

A magnetic drill press is useful for flat steel objects, but not for anything else. I would rather have a real drill press.

BTW...before you consider going with a larger BOMA, consider going this route instead. The Alien Power C80100 is rated for 6000 watts and physically 2/3 the size of the BOMA. I just got this motor today with halls already installed. It's a very stoutly built motor. Most outrunners are not intended to run from the shaft, but rather from the bell only. This is one of the few outrunners that have a 12mm shaft and will run equally well from the bell or shaft. Also, the C80100 can be purchased in a variety of Kv's which is not the case for the BOMA. I paid $180 for this motor. for how much more wattage it can handle compared to the BOMA for just a few dollars more is in my opinion worth it.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby Ianhill » Tue Jan 10, 2017 10:14 pm

Cheers for the links, I had the 120v on my ebay watch but if the 96v is upto the job of 82v no issues and half the size that's the one for me, I'm sure it will take 84v its only to power my rear lights and trigger my main power relay I use it.

I've been on aliens site and i do like his motors ive seen them used with good effect but the boma was a direct swap shorten the wire solder on some new connectors swap the dcdc convertor and test at 20s with 10ah see how it rolls only be an afternoons work.

Good work on the moped build the specs sound like its going to take off, Any big boy battery in mind ?
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Wed Jan 11, 2017 12:13 pm

Ianhill wrote:Cheers for the links, I had the 120v on my ebay watch but if the 96v is upto the job of 82v no issues and half the size that's the one for me, I'm sure it will take 84v its only to power my rear lights and trigger my main power relay I use it.

I've been on aliens site and i do like his motors ive seen them used with good effect but the boma was a direct swap shorten the wire solder on some new connectors swap the dcdc convertor and test at 20s with 10ah see how it rolls only be an afternoons work.

Good work on the moped build the specs sound like its going to take off, Any big boy battery in mind ?


Not yet, but I will have to do something. My 10,000mah battery isn't going to cut it. For testing purposes it will be fine, but I will have to do something larger. I have a bunch of 16,000 mah packs I made into a 20S2P pack for my moped. I'll probably take that apart and use some of the packs for the Currie. The moped is much further out and not even close to rideable right now.

I run all my lights and horn on that DC-Dc converter. That's 2 headlights, 3 sets of directional lights, 2 sets of side lights and a horn.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:25 pm

The wheels are coning along nicely. I found these brake rotors on ebay and they included a freewheel threaded adapter. The rear wheel rotor threaded right on. The front hub is too small to mount the rotor to it so I attached the threaded adapter to the wheel hub with epoxy. Hopefully it will hold up. The second pic is the front wheel.

Image
Image
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Fri Jan 13, 2017 12:10 pm

I got that sprocket drilled and now I'm waiting for the adapter that will bolt to it and then to a 219 sprocket.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby Ianhill » Fri Jan 13, 2017 12:35 pm

Must of spent some hours on this one its been completely remastered from vhs to bluray. I'm starting a e300 mk3 soon it won't be massively expensive or the best parts but I'll use what I've learnt to make sure she singing all the high notes.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:57 pm

Ianhill wrote:Must of spent some hours on this one its been completely remastered from vhs to bluray. I'm starting a e300 mk3 soon it won't be massively expensive or the best parts but I'll use what I've learnt to make sure she singing all the high notes.


Sounds like it's going to be good.

I need to work on the motor bracket this weekend. I should be able to finish the bracket in a few hours time...if I stick to it.
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Sun Jan 15, 2017 4:38 am

More work done...

The shaft coming out of the motor bell was 3" long. I had to cut it off since it stuck out of the motor too far. I taped up all the holes into the motor so no metal bits would get inside. Then any metal that was attracted to the motor bell, got wiped off and then any tiny bits still left I picked up with a piece of tape. I seriously doubt any metal got into the motor.

The motor bracket is effectively done. The motor can slide up and down about an inch and the tension pully can move about 2.5 inches. There should be plenty of movement between the motor and pulley for removing any chain slack and for making it easy to put on and take off the chain. The chain can go on either side of the tensioner...depending on which way I need to pull slack. The C80100 looks so much bigger than the original 500 watt motor now that it's mounted. I'm waiting for a motor shaft adapter to arrive. It should be here Monday and then I can drill the motor shaft and secure the adapter to the shaft with a couple of long set screws. The adapter is keyed and so are the sprockets so they just slide right over the square key and then is secured with a couple of set screws. I will need to add some kind of spacer to the wheel sprocket to get it in line with the pulley and motor sprocket. The back wheel is centered between the forks so shifting the wheel a little to the right isn't the best idea. All I need is a couple of washers between the freewheel threaded adapter and the kart adapter to shift the wheel sprocket over inline with the tensioner pully and motor sprocket. Tomorrow I intend to add the back brake caliper. I have a new set of front forks that are already set up for a disk brake caliper. The steering tube is about an inch short so I will get it cut and welded together a bit longer. Otherwise it's a perfect fit. The tensioner is on a 10mm stainless bolt...should hold up well. My greatest concern it that the motor will slowly shift downward in its slides, but then the wheel sprocket will be nearly a straight shot over to the motor sprocket so hopefully it won't be an issue. Worst case, I put an aluminum spacer under the bolts and inside the slides to keep the motor from moving down. I will make a lighter bracket for the other side of the wheel that will mount the back brake caliper and will be the same height as the motor plate. Then I will build a platform over the back wheel. It will serve 3 purposes. 1. Keep tire spray from running up my back when I ride on wet roads. 2. Give me a place to carry stuff. 3. Creates a place to mount the tail lights.

Image
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Image

This is the tail lights I intend to use on the back. They contain directional, brake lights and tail lights in these LED strips. They stick onto just about any surface. The side lights on the battery bay stick on too. I have the same type of lights on my blue scooter. They stay put very nicely. I'll put 3 or 4 of them on the back of the scooter for maximum visibility. On my blue scooter I have 3 rows of them and they are very visible.

Image

I found some better tires. The factory tires are 12.5 X 2.25 inches and a bit skinny IMHO. I'm sure they will work, but not the best choice. There are basicly 4 options in tires of this size. One is a same sized knobby version, the tires I already have, a slightly wider knobby version and a wider street tire. I'm probably going to get the wider street tire. They will handle the power and speed better and provide better traction. This is the wider street tire. They are 3/4" wider than the factory tires.

Image
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby Ianhill » Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:32 am

Street tyre looks a good choice specially for wet conditions, I like indicators, I dont nw where you find the time for it all, What's the deal with that engine bracket how come you are swapping it ? Are you putting a cover to protect the motor like the cage fitted to the izip1000 etc.
Razor E3000 brushed 12s lipo 3kw viewtopic.php?f=35&t=78948
Stand up faggio EV 3.7kw 16s viewtopic.php?f=35&t=82374&start=75
A2b metro gti viewtopic.php?f=6&t=87836
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Ianhill
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Sun Jan 15, 2017 2:32 pm

Ianhill wrote:Street tyre looks a good choice specially for wet conditions, I like indicators, I dont nw where you find the time for it all, What's the deal with that engine bracket how come you are swapping it ? Are you putting a cover to protect the motor like the cage fitted to the izip1000 etc.


The factory bracket is cut in such a way that using it wont work. I had to make a new one. and it was made of stamped sheet metal so not very strong or stiff. I have a cage to put around the motor that came off a Schwinn scooter, but I don't know if I'll use it or not.
E-Bike XB-502 (Moped) conversion project
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=83302&p=1222730#p1222730

Currie kick scooter conversion project
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=83830&p=1227407#p1227407

My kick scooter project
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=75177
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby ElectricGod » Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:05 am

More work done today...

I added the motor cage. It's a bit short for this motor so I used longer screws so it could be away from the aluminum plate more. 10-32 stainless screws come in handy. The opening in the cage is large enough to allow the motor to slide to either extreme and not touch the cage. The motor shaft protrudes a little bit beyond the cage, but the motor is pretty much protected now.

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Last edited by ElectricGod on Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:42 pm, edited 1 time in total. View post history.
E-Bike XB-502 (Moped) conversion project
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=83302&p=1222730#p1222730

Currie kick scooter conversion project
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=83830&p=1227407#p1227407

My kick scooter project
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=75177
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ElectricGod
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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Postby beetbocks » Mon Jan 16, 2017 7:52 am

nice work- im thinking of converting my GT 200 scooter (which looks almost exactly like yours ..) already upgraded the Lead acid to a 7s lipo but kept the original motor and controller
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ill probably use all the electronics off my broken E-scoot so 10s and 6374 motor

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..it will be more than enough power i suspect .. just need some high ratio gearing ..
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