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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: Oct 28, 2017 9:00 pm
by ElectricGod
Minor changes in the scooter...

I noticed that my watt meter was running down the battery pack too quickly. It ought to need 10-15 mA to run, but it's pulling down more like 150mA. I was running it direct to the battery buss previously. Now it gets power through the enable switch so it's off when the scooter isn't enabled.

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: Nov 18, 2017 2:55 am
by ElectricGod
I got a tire pressure monitoring system on ebay. It cost less than $50 and monitors 2 tires...assuming you have schraeder valves. It took no effort at all to fit it to the scooter. Thread on a locking nut, thread on the sensor, tighten the locking nut and you are done. I know it's going to add a little weight and make my wheels a little out of balance, but that's just a small wheel weight opposite the valve stem to fix that. As soon as I turned on the computer unit, it showed front and rear tire pressure. With a little button pressing, I had it set to Fahrenheit and had my high and low pressures set. There is also a setting for max tire temperature. Exceeding any of these 3 settings will set off the alarm function. The LCD screen flashes red and you hear a beeping sound. I simulated a tire problem by unscrewing a sensor and within a second or so, the unit was alarming. I had filled my tires on my air compressors regulated output which was set to 40 psi. I was glad to see that the sensors also were close to 40 psi. The sensors use a small lithium watch battery that is replaceable. They also go to sleep when the wheels are not turning. It takes like 5 minutes and they shut off. As soon as you start moving, they turn back on.

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It came with a standard ring clamp for mounting to the handle bars, but mine are quite full so there was no place to mount the TPMS unit. I chose to cut off most of the clamping mechanism and use the original screw hole, a 6mm screw and a mirror mounting hole on the brake lever to mount it. It's out of the way and yet right where I can see it. The battery is fully charged. I'll see tomorrow...assuming the weather is cooperative how far I can go on a charge. The monitor unit has a screw mount on the bottom of it and locking nut to keep it mounted. The other end of the screw has a ball on it so that the whole thing can be tilted to your needs.

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As you can see my handle bars are quite crowded with stuff. Soon the app on my phone will replace the watt meter, speedo and the temp meter that is currently hidden. when I lock up the scooter somewhere, I'll need to grab the speedo, TPMS, phone, bike light and camera before I walk away.

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I have been riding around with my phone in my pocket and been wanting to use the great app and telemetry module that Vadym has worked hard at creating. I finally got a quad lock mount for my phone so it can securely mount to the scooter.

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So far, I've been enabling the scooter via a rocker switch in this spot. I found a key switch that is compact and capable of several amps so I installed it. Of course if you remove those 4 screws, you can get to the back side of the switch easily enough. It's meant to keep the curious from flipping on the scooter, not be Fort Knox.

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Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: Dec 13, 2017 10:43 pm
by Raisedeyebrows
I got one of the Currie Flyer scooters included on a recent package deal, from skimming this thread and another thread with info from Dark Angel regarding the Currie stuff am I correct that the original internal controller will likely fail if run at 36V? The 2 SLA's in the thing we're pretty much totally discharged when I got the thing and after an attempt at charging them they only went up to about 19V.

I hooked up 2 Greenworks 18V NMH 3ah powertool batteries I had sitting around to it on a bench test and it ran real good at 36V, just ran it for maybe 20 seconds. After searching the forum I couldn't see any info on what the internal controllers were rated at and was hoping someone might know so I don't have to open the motor up to check.

I don't think I want to put an external 36V controller on this thing so my question is am I better off just running it at 24V or will the controller handle 36V, or are they a maybe you might get away with it type thing?

Thanks in advance to anyone who might know.

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: Jan 11, 2018 5:45 pm
by ElectricGod
Raisedeyebrows wrote:
Dec 13, 2017 10:43 pm
I got one of the Currie Flyer scooters included on a recent package deal, from skimming this thread and another thread with info from Dark Angel regarding the Currie stuff am I correct that the original internal controller will likely fail if run at 36V? The 2 SLA's in the thing we're pretty much totally discharged when I got the thing and after an attempt at charging them they only went up to about 19V.

I hooked up 2 Greenworks 18V NMH 3ah powertool batteries I had sitting around to it on a bench test and it ran real good at 36V, just ran it for maybe 20 seconds. After searching the forum I couldn't see any info on what the internal controllers were rated at and was hoping someone might know so I don't have to open the motor up to check.

I don't think I want to put an external 36V controller on this thing so my question is am I better off just running it at 24V or will the controller handle 36V, or are they a maybe you might get away with it type thing?

Thanks in advance to anyone who might know.
i have no idea. I got my Currie with a blown controller. Not that I cared, I wasn't going to use it anyway. But yeah...most likely it was designed for 24 volts and it will blow up at 36 volts, but I don't really know. Honestly, crack open the motor and bring the halls and phases out of the shell and run a real motor controller! The built in one is crap.

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: Jan 22, 2018 11:40 pm
by Gaffler
Great thread for a scooter build and very nice work. I have learned a great deal for my upcoming conversion of three Schwinn Stealth 1000w scooters with all original parts still working great. But out with the old tech and in with the new goods. Would you have any suggestions for my particular scooters? Using your links on the rims/wheels I found them no problem. Do you have links for the ceramic bearings, brake rotor and sprocket mounting plates for the hub on the wheels, and the better tires you finally settled on? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and very detailed build. Cheers

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: Jan 30, 2018 12:16 am
by GeriatricGeoffrey
this looks fun as hell. about how much have you spent on it in total?

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: Apr 20, 2018 10:24 am
by armandd
Wow! That's a really crowded handlebar. Do you plan to do cross country trip or something like that? :D

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: May 18, 2018 10:44 am
by ElectricGod
Thanks folks for the comments.

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: May 18, 2018 11:12 am
by ElectricGod
I'm doing a little rework on the Currie.

The ignition switch is a bit problematic. I'm switching a good bit of current and the contacts didn't last very long. I was using this switch..which is rated for 2 amps and I'm definitely pulling a good bit more than that. I need a higher amperage key switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/On-Off-Key-Swi ... Sw5cNYSIf7

Since I'm working on the scooter, I though I'd add a 3 speed switch control. I've got the controller wiring done and added the 3 new wires into my terminal block in the battery bay. I've also ordered some new wire so I have more conductors going to the handlebars. This will end up being a fairly large change, but will fix a couple of things I didn't like how I originally implemented them.

1. New connector at the controller that now incorporates speed, enable and throttle, new cable from the controller to the terminal block.
2. New battery bay terminal block since the original one was full.
3. Replace the cables to the handlebars with one that has more conductors.
4. Replace the handlebar terminal block with something weather proof. I have 8, 18 and 24 pin IP68 connectors for this.
5. My handlebars are fairly busy. I really went over the top on the Currie! I've come up with a new switch cluster that combines all my current switches into a single cluster.
6. I'm adding USB charging. My phone gets used a lot on the Currie and on anything future I build as well. I need USB power. Also, my GPS speedo and the TPMS all have micro USB ports for charging. Currently I remove them from the scooter for charging. Why?

I had an issue with my Yimia dumb BMS on the scooter. It let my pack get too low on some cells and badly out of balance without shutting off. One cell was at 2 volts and several more were less than 2.5 volts. The rest were nearly fully charged. As a result the watt meter was showing I had plenty of charge left and the scooter was riding like nothing was wrong. I've replaced the BMS with a smart one that has bluetooth. I'll be able to see pack status on my phone. No more surprises from a malfunctioning BMS!

This is the new BMS. I've been fairly active on this thread. I now have 6 of these things and while inexpensive, they work really well.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88676

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: May 18, 2018 11:47 am
by ElectricGod
I think this will be my new key switch. It's dual pole and the contacts are rated for 4 amps so parallel those contacts for 8 amps...that will lake care of my current switching needs. Also the key is removable in either position. I put super glue around the tumbler to tighten it up on the old key switch. Riding around, sometimes vibrations and bouncing would dislodge the key from the ON position from the weight of the keys. NOT leaving the key in the ignition will take care of that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Philmore-3 ... 0#viTabs_0

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: May 22, 2018 11:15 am
by ElectricGod
I replaced the terminal block in the battery bay with a slightly larger one 30 connections instead of 24. I've purchased some new wire which has 15 and 24 conductors in them. I think the way I wire up the handebars will be different. The left switch cluster needs 12 wires for 2 3-way switches and 5 buttons. I might as well just run that in it's own 18 pin IP68 connector and add the 6 throttle wires to it. A second cable can incorporate brakes to it direct to the battery bay instead. I want IP68 connectors at the handlebars so that I can disconnect if a switch cluster or some other module goes bad. Pulling the wires back up the steering tube is a royal pain when a connector eliminates the need for that.

Re: Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Posted: May 22, 2018 11:16 am
by ElectricGod
I'm at 1699 posts as of the last post so this one takes me to 1700. Posting for no other reason.