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Posted: Apr 17 2020 9:00am
Droupouts aligned for welder , This method ive used before on my bike, clamping the swingarm pivot and the flat bar on a extrusion should keep them nice and straight, im going to stress this to the welder... this is dam important to get right .
Posted: May 04 2020 7:58am
playing around with bar mount ideas ..i like the 45 deg idea so im going with that.
Single leg swinarm mounts done , simple but effective , might reshape them a little to look better.
So waiting for swingarm welding then i can mount motor and attach to frame for a mockup
bit by bit its happening.
Posted: Jul 11 2020 8:52am
Swingarm welding is done, good clean welds just need to cut the old shock mount and brace out and clean it up.
This was a 6 + week wait to get done, not stressed though.. nice to move on to the next stage....
Also first stage of bar- mount and down-tube done.
Posted: Jul 12 2020 2:42am
You mentioned that you used 5xxx alloy. Afaik this needs to be heat treated. Just in case you didn't know that.
Posted: Jul 15 2020 2:41pm
Yeah izeman good point .... the 5083 i used is good as it retains exceptional strength after welding. Its used in marine environments. boats ect.
On top of that ive over engineered it a bit just in case ... my swingarm and fork are a bit over the top but ill never have to worry about those parts.
Im working on the handle bar down-tube connection to the fork ..i must have changed the design 10 times
this has to be strong especially as its a dam long lever against this connection..im trying to incorporate some polyurethane bushing to soak up handle bar vibrations.
Also i want it folding so i can slip it in the car easy , scooters have a big advantage over bikes like this , its a cool feature.
Posted: Jul 15 2020 6:28pm
I liked the idea of using a downhill stem and handle bars if it's going to be alloy I'd suggest 5mm for the thickness for the downtube with the ID of 28.6mm if I can remeber correctly for a standard fork, I got a tapered fat bike fork with a frame i can get the headtube from and was going to use it as the basis to make an alloy scooter after my current build and want to go alloy on everything so I'll be watching your handle bar design closely.
You may want to take a small piece of your material heat treat it in your over for 16 hours then do a scratch hardness test scratch one vs the other, hacksaw cuts in alloy look ruff when it's soft hard alloys cut cleaner plenty of ways to judge it but you could nearly double the tensile strength in some cases.
To be honest it looks like when it comes together it will be the cyber scooter it's quite futuristic in its design choices and I like it for that keep it up get there in the end.
Posted: Jul 16 2020 10:14am
Ian In photo,s above is my handlebar mount / down-tube [ 75x50mm rhs x 3mmm thick] so its about 5x stronger than needed....
Went to my engineer buddy today and picked up my motor cover as it had to get re-drilled / re-tapped disc brake pattern to 44mm bcd ..
Even from new my motor bearings were Bad / notchy - chi
nese quality...... so i have some nice Japanese quality bearings coming...
Posted: Oct 17 2020 8:01am
Sadly im not going to be able to finish this so im going to sell it with Motor spare front wheel / tyre+ kelly 300/350 amp contoller for $2400 Aus
With loads of stainless socket head cap screws + materals to finish. 2 much to list.
So if theres anyone in australia pm me.
Posted: Oct 17 2020 9:15pm
I've got my scooter build unfinished, I had a disagreement with my welder and I'm left with a pyle of rusting metal.
The welds were stupidly poor rusted from the get go thought I was stupid or something as he tried to save in gas but cost me in shit weld so after the front fork being welded in the wrong spot and the front on the frame looking like arse I pulled the plug.
After covid starts up I get an abusive txt message and calling me out I owe £30 for his 10 minutes of failure, at that point I told him how his maximum £20 in materials has cost me a £60 fork in the bin and countless hours cutting it up and to this day I still can not find a replacement in the same 135mm size.
What i see it is I'll save up the £1300 it will cost me for a decent pfc ac welder and I'll be able to do aluminium myself, it's going to be a learning curve and I'm skint at moment with the world's state buy I'm not giving up in just progressing my design, I guess I'm lucky having a bike aswell so I still got some thing to ride but that just cost me £350 when my stock charger failed and the pcb was potted to the case so i upgraded as we do to a chargery c10325 so I can cut charge time to 40 mins from 2 hours, i checked my battery and with new cells I can charge quick as tesla does it.
If i was you I'd sit on it becuase I was going to sell my bike few months back but thought what's the point I end up getting knocked down give a away a gem that I can not replace so I'm keeping my rubys time to box clever more than ever.