Goped ESR750 hoverboard convert to SLA battery.

BlitzKrieg

10 mW
Joined
May 16, 2018
Messages
24
Hello guys.
I have bought used goped esr750 hoverboard with dead LiPo batteries. They are almost dead. I have no money and purpose to buy new LiPo batteries because the weather in my country does not let me use goped often. So i need an easy care batteries. I will use iCharger 106B+ to charge it and don't need an on-board charger at all. Is it possible to use hoverboard controller with SLA batteries without any changing and programming? It is expensive to buy new controller for SLA batteries too. Especially that i don't really know will i use hoverboard or not. I would like to try it with minimal costs.
And the second question. How can i check if on-board charger is working properly. I try it output with volt tester but it shows only 0.
Maybe i should to connect two of four wires together to start it like computers power supply?
Thanks a lot.
 
As far as I know, the ESR750 uses a brushed motor and controller. This is not compatible with a Hoverboard.

Lead acid batteries suck. New Lipo or Li-ion batteries will perform much better and weigh less. These days, lithium batteries are about the same price as lead-acid anyway.

Some chargers need to 'see' the battery voltage before they enable the output. If the batteries are too discharged, it may be too low to enable the output. If you have some other voltage source like 9v battery, or PSU, you can turn on the charger and breifly connect the other source to see if the charger will start. Once it starts, you can check the output with a voltmeter.
 
My hoverboard is old, and uses brashed motor is the same like here http://goped.com/motor-esr-model-111130020/
I know all about lipo batteries, i used them from 2006 year, but i can buy 4 SLA batteries tommorow for 100$ but lipo is more expensive and i cant buy them tomorrow.
Another problem is that i need to balance them, charge them carefully and check them some times to let them stay healthy :)
I have a few lipo batteries that died just because i don't check them to often. I cant use goped more than 6 months in a year. So i need SLA batteries.
 
Presuming the series set of SLAs is about the same voltage as the Lithium it's replacing, and you can physically fit them into the battery space, my only concern would be the onboard charger. SLA and lithium use different charging profiles, and while SLA isn't likely to burst into flames or anything crazy like that, you could end up shortening their life substantially if they're not being taken care of right.
 
Is the a way to detect controller version by its marking? Is it SLA or LiPO or something else. I have doubts that it is a true hoverboard.
I heard that the acceleration lever is different to SLA and LiPo batteries. Yeap charging is ve problem, cuz LiPo charge cutoff is on 4.2 V per cell. The SLA batteries charges till the current will stop to flow AFAIK. Charging is not the problem, as i tell before i have iCharger 106B+. It can charge SLA up to 22 V. But discharge process can make a problem.
 
amberwolf said:
if you dnot tedn the sla regulraly itll die sitting taht long
Yeap but i have moped with SLA battery from 2012 year and i never change its battery and never check it for this period. And its still alive, not as new but it is working.
And the price of SLA is 100$ but the LiPo cost is between 200 and 400$. After the next sanctions we will not have money even for SLA. Putin will make us to eat grass :lol:
 
The controller doesn't know or care what kind of batteries are feeding it, only the voltage and current. You can use any type of battery as long as it has the right voltage. There may be markings on the controller showing the voltage. A pair of 12v lead-acid batteries would be 24v nominal and as high as 30v hot off the charger. Pretty much any controller can handle that much voltage but some may have a different cutoff point. This can generally be changed either in software or hardware.
 
Guys pls explain how goped programmer working. It has firmware on its own board and rewrite it every time when you set any values or it just rewrite this values. Do you need PC to do this?
There is pic16F88 on controller board, i have pickit2. So i can read firmware if they did not to lock it and save, read and save firmware from esr750 (i know a guys with it) and write it to mine.
 
BlitzKrieg said:
Guys pls explain how goped programmer working. It has firmware on its own board and rewrite it every time when you set any values or it just rewrite this values. Do you need PC to do this?
There is pic16F88 on controller board, i have pickit2. So i can read firmware if they did not to lock it and save, read and save firmware from esr750 (i know a guys with it) and write it to mine.

No clue. Years ago there used to be a GoPed forum. It may still exist somewhere.
 
picf1688 firmware is locked as i expect.
Guys is goped sell parts to rear brake kit separately? My mudguard is crashed and one of aluminum part is strongly scratched. They are did not answer me on my messages.
 
I have some new information about controller. There is no any battery protection in it. Protection is in the LiPO battery. It has 2 PCB with balancer and protection.
If i use 18.9 V to power up controller it works, led on the throttle leveris blinking but motor starts. But if i use 15 V to power up controller throttle lever is blinking but nothing happens if i push it. So i think there is no any difference in controller between LiPO and SLA versions.
 
Praised American quality :oops: Axial play of rear break disk is about 7 mm !!! Every of 4 fastener holes distance to axial are differ. Shame on goped factory :oops:
And i'am look like an idiot while trying to align it with my clock indicator with axial play 7 mm !!! :mrgreen:
 
I can't believe they built it with 7mm of axial play. Maybe someone took it apart at some point and put the spacers in wrong or left out a part. Sounds like you need a new spacer.

No low voltage protect is unusual but you can monitor the voltage manually with a voltmeter. A new controller is fairly inexpensive these days and some of the newer models have displays and more features than the stock unit.
 
Oh, sorry. I have made a mistake. Not axial play, but radial play of break disk. Axial was not so big, it was about 1 mm and i align it in two minutes.
I read a lot of posts and calc battery price. The most rational way is to set 8S2P 38120 Headway with Chargery Power BMS8. The price of the 16х38120 is bigger than the SLA but its not so expensive as LI-ion as i want to use earlier. Earlier i want to made a two packs with 5P7S 2600 mAh Samsung 18650 with original goped BMS that i get from original Li-Po battery pack.
But now is the main problem is where to get Chargery Power BMS8 when its discontinued :-(
If you are interested in, i can post photo of original goped BMS. I was wonder that it has only 6 wires for 7 cells. But in fact there is a 7 resistors on balancer PCB. Its BMS and balancer can be extended up to 10S, it has the place for the electrical parts, but PCB covered with epoxy or something for that parts.
 
Goped li-on conversion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7uu5jzCxgo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwSBlHaHXN4&t=99s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCmMJ-FSBNU
 
Thanks a lot, i have already saw this video. I thought about the conversion goped to Li-ion batteries. And i can use stock BMS with that batteries. But it is more expensive than 38120. Another plus of 38120 is easy assembling. Li-Ion batteries i should to solder carefully, it is not the problem but it is not so easy.
I already calc this way. I need 70 Li-Ion cells with 2600mAh and maximum current 15A for every cell.
I should to make two packs with 35 cells in it. 5P7S the size of this pack is near to size of the BMS pcb so i can to put them together.
Summary capacity will 2600*5*2=26000 mAh for two packs. And there is a place for the third pack, i have 3 goped original packs.
I think that this way is more prefered than others.
Guys pls help me to check if the onboard charger is work or not. I know that red and green wires is + and -, what should i do with others two wires to start the charger?
I have only iCharger 106B+, but its voltage is not enough to charge batteries up to 29.5 V.
 
I've made this.

I used 18650 5p7s with original goped BMS. I checked with voltmeter that every parallel group of cells after 1 hour of charge has the same voltage. And than pack battery. Now it is on charge. It took a lot of time (about 9 hours) to charge it successfully. I checked charge current with onboard charger its ~2.88 A
 
Guys, pls help
What should i see when charging is complete? It is blinking with 3 led 1+2+3 and than turn off but summary voltage is 29,7 but it should be 29,5
I afraid of overcharging :)
Thanks a lot.
 
Right, it should not go over 29.4v. Some chargers have an adjustment pot inside. If you can't find an adjustment, you might try placing a big diode in series with the charger output. This will drop the voltage by about 0.6v. It would be safer to slightly under charge the cells and will make them last longer.
 
I have only onboard ESR charger. And i dont know how it will show me that charging complete. Its just blinking with leds while the voltage is 29,7 and do nothing, maybe i should to wait a few minutes and it will turn off, but i afraid.
 
A lead-acid charger won't shut off but may have a float charge mode where the voltage drops a little. I wouldn't worry so much about it not shutting off at end of charge, but I would worry about the voltage.

I don't know what that model of charger looks like. Some models are relatively easy to open and adjust the voltage. If it is sealed, potted or otherwise hard to take apart, then I would suggest placing a diode in series with the output to drop the voltage.
 
I have hoverboard that was with lipo batteries by default. So charger should to stop charging when it is fully charged i think. Or BMS should to disconnect batteries. It doesn't start charging until the batteries will have specified voltage AFAICS.
 
If it was made for lithium batteries, then it should shut off at end of charge. But 29.7v is still a little too high.
 
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