The don of Razor e300's dual 6374 + vesc 6.6

If any of you have read my stuff before then you'd call me Mr Razor as I cut my teeth on these things and now I sharp as one.

I have a current build with a razor e300, hydraulic disc brakes and 140mm rotors all round with a 68tooth rear and 10 tooth front for a 6.8 reduction, I can use a single 130kv 6374 motor and vesc 6.6 to be geared for 30mph at 12s with 60amp constant rated it should get down the road decent and rev to around 6k rotor rpm but I'll have to get a high quality 25h chain the cheap crap will do for mock up but I got a source of high quality industrial stainless chain.

So I've thought why should the skateboarders have all the fun of dual vescs with CAN connection and motors with foc and field weakning on a ride that weigh's next to nothing.

Below I have included a picture of my back wheel setup as it stands it's been converted to 6.5 inch rims and I have a quality set of pmt wet tyre's to go on, with no freewheel mech so it constant drive suitable for regen.

As you can see there's not much spare room around the disc side of the wheel but it's possible to fit a 68tooth sprocket either side of the wheel with a spacer to set out the sprocket on the disc side and run a dual chain rear wheel with regen rear brake only and hydraulic disc front, remove the stock 250w motor and drop 2 6374 motor's side by side on a big alloy heatsink/bracket so there's differing chain length's each side and the motors sit side by side with the width of a motor can and a little breathing space to different the chain length, the ground clearance will be excellent and two stainless 25h chains will be more than upto the job keeping the tooth step small so the gearing is compact.

The motors could then be geared for 52mph with a 190kv motor, 68tooth rear and 12 tooth front giving 5.66 gearing with a rotor rpm of 8.5k rpm so it would sound sexy when its blasting along, it's a dream and an expensive one but it would weigh nothing and go like the clappers, but I'm more likely to go single motor it's more suited to my pocket, Anyone want a dual drive one built give me a shout I'll happily put the death trap together and be the first to one wheel peel her out and drop 12s 120amp (5.3kw nominal) into the back wheel and part the road like bruce almighty.



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Any tips on how to install disc brakes on front and back? Was it a kit?

No its not a kit, I got the wheels from my larger brushless scooter thats been stripped and i had a set of hydraulics for a mtb, the front at the moment is attached with a plate I made that locks on the wheel axle and a pipe clamp, it works a treat.

On the rear I just drilled 2 holes in the correct place to line up with the caliper mount and then used 6mm sleeving around 10mm to space the mount out.

I've got a bracket for the front fork to weld the disc mount on but I'm waiting to work out my motor dimensions so a friend can tig an alloy bracket for the motor mount that I can then finish up and weld my disc brake mount to the fork.

Had a lucky find today and scored some new wheels. they will need a refurb and one hub is missing along with the discs so I'll need a new hub, sprocket, discs, valves, bearings and axles, On the plus side they are alloy and two piece rims so I can take them apart to get the stubborn sized tyres on with less hassle and no damage and they come with a decent spare pmt tyre so I have 4 decent italian spare racing tyres now.

I can still use them tubeless with a little lick of seal up and threaded valves, get them balanced so I got a road worthy set of wheels all new with race grade rubber and then put them in a scooter with some serious power.

My razor is working on stock motor with a 24v brushed 500w controller and a 8s 24ah lipo pack, its got adjustable throttle and speed settings so Its kid friendly, I may keep this as is and start a fresh build custom frame so I can get the space I need to mount a lmx 8kw motor and 20s lipo while keeping it compact I've got my spare 1600w brushless scooter to pinch the headset from and then start from scratch around it with a decent quality build budget as possible.

Ianhill said:

No its not a kit, I got the wheels from my larger brushless scooter thats been stripped .

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What scooter did wheels come from? They look good.



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Mini moto I never used them as there's much better one piece rims.

any updates on this procjet? just bought super cheap e300 and looking for some inspirations

I wish I could deliever a war speech that will send you into battle and make the best yet but I've been stuck on mine for ages lose the will pick it back up and so on,

If you got the frame I'd say drop a dualtron hub in there and use a sunwin controller or aomething cheap and rev the guts out of it at 16s or so, I got a build going on and it's not gonna be slow at 12s but if you want mental 16s is the way to go and maybe dual hub motor but that will need a fat bike front fork with 150mm dropout to get the hub to fit upfront.

Hey man are you still posting?

Complete novice, need a bit of info. Sorry for hijack

Whats up

I just got an e300, it was dead. I put 2x 36v 5ah makita batteries in it with a 36v 800w controller. All works ok but it's only doing 17mph is that normal? What kind of mileage should I expect from it? I'd like to get an hour out of it but not sure if possible.

Sounds about right not much there stock motor wise, 3 batts should be close on hour unless it's costant on 800w and that would need 5 but the motor won't take that abuse for to long the brush carrier ain't up to much that's why people used dual motor or just went my1020 depends in what you want to spend and get out of it.

What if I drop battery voltage to 12 and use 3 rated at 4or5 ah?

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Would 3 x 18v be too much for the 36v controller?

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Tbh its fast enough for what I need, just want a decent ride time.
Brakes are a bit rubbish though.

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3×18v is too much for the motor too.

Everytime we up the voltage the motor trys to draw more amps so 24v is say 20amp and 36v close on 30amp and 48v would see 40amp and for this motor that's too much it melts the windings and brush carrier.

12v your top speed would be like 5mph so stick with what you got but add capacity to increase run time.

The brake are crap I sold one that did 30mph the next few days the boy struck a car sliding down a hill and had a compound fracture it looked like bbq rib hanging put his leg so I advice sort the brakes out big time get a disc front set up at least.

Ok I get it, I wont put too much through the motor, ooof poor lad sounds like that left a bruise or 2.
I meant 3x12v batts to keep it at 36v but would be rated at 15ah instead of 10 that I currently have.


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Makeitfarster said:

Ok I get it, I wont put too much through the motor, ooof poor lad sounds like that left a bruise or 2.
I meant 3x12v batts to keep it at 36v but would be rated at 15ah instead of 10 that I currently have.


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No probs with that as long as they can put out the rated current you will see increased run time.

Nice one mate thanks a lot for your help.

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Just got over 20 out of her, think that's her limit, motor was pretty warm after.
Sorry one more question..
Would 3x 12v 5ah deliver the same power as 2x18v 5ah units but with more running time?
Apologies if these are silly questions I'm still very green.

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Makeitfarster said:

Just got over 20 out of her, think that's her limit, motor was pretty warm after.
Sorry one more question..
Would 3x 12v 5ah deliver the same power as 2x18v 5ah units but with more running time?
Apologies if these are silly questions I'm still very green.

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Manufactures state 12v but it's really 14.4v nominal in most cases, so that is 4s2p normally 8 cells in total 4 in series 2 in parallel to give 4 × 3.6 to get 14.4v and 2× the 2.5 ah to get the 5ah.
But the 18v batts are normally 21v hot off the charger or 10 cells in total 5s 2p 3.6v ×5 to get the 18v nominal
So 3 12v batts would be 12s and 2 18v will be 10s so that's why your top speed has gone up but the motor will draw more current and get less range.
Got to remember that a 12s pack 3×12v batts will have a full charge of 50.4v while the 10s will have 42v max cell voltage gets to 4.2v so that's why your speed increases, when I run 12s my motor melted within 300 yards with lots of smoke so your on the edge now be careful.

Ok wow thanks for that info and warning mate.

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Sorry OP. How would the speed/mileage react if I swapped out the 800w controller for a let's say 300w? Would it just be weaker uphill?

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Is it the 800w eating the batteries?

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