
these boats had an optional 23hp diesel, heres a right up on it
http://www.canadianyachting.ca/boat-rev ... =component
Only if you need ballast anyway. If you do, then it could be seen as a twofer.goatman wrote: ↑Jun 30 2020 1:51amfound these batteries, any good?
https://comoxvalley.craigslist.org/for/ ... 21911.html
It stays tthe same...less any losses in the gearing of course.[
im just curious what happens to the 3000 watts? stay the same or does it jump to 6000 watts?...
yes, if you look at my 30Q test, if im running with batteries and 700 watts of solar then drop anchor and the batteries automatically go from discharge to charge, they dont seem to suffer any noticeable degradation unlike the sony vtc6 and others ive tested. the mnke 26650 doesnt like to cycle for longer than 24hrs or it suffers damage. so ill be doing a motor battery but also 2 house batteries that can be paralleled to the motor battery for cloudy days.tai626 wrote: ↑Oct 26 2020 12:14pmI am in the process to convert a sailboat with similar size of yours: 26’ with 8’ beam.
Here is some random thoughts as suggestion:
I couldn’t find the displacement of your boat, let use mine instead: 4600lbs.
The hull speed is around: 7knots.
The rule of thumb for the electric power needed is 1500lbs/1HP. So I only need 3HP to reach the hull speed.
You can consider harness the wind power as well. It will take less real states from the boat.
I would focus on the batteries first before thinking of the motor/solar/wind. It is the most expensive part usually.
Check in the EV used batteries: you can often score $100/kWh Lithium batteries. For example:
https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volts ... lot-of-14/
https://batteryhookup.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQ ... 8EEALw_wcB
Good luck and let us learn from each other!
Tai
on fishing boats they put "trolling valves" on the transmission to reduce pressure and lower the temperature