Electric outboard build for canoe... Help
- Thread starter PeterA
- Start date
goatman
10 MW
golden motors has 1500 watt and 3000 watt motors
https://goldenmotor.bike/product-category/bldc-motors/
https://goldenmotor.bike/product-category/bldc-motors/
If your canoe is something like a 16ft Canadian you don't need anywhere near 3.5hp. I built a Turnigy C80-100 motor onto a Evinrude 3hp leg and it is much more than needed for my 14ft rowing skiff. It is steerable and mobile at 100W, 370W (1/2hp) is my chosen cruising power which gives about 5mph (GPS) and max power 1.5kW (with 9S lithium) just puts the bow up in the air and leaves a big wake. I chose this motor simply because I was familiar with model 'plane brushless motors and the Kv perfectly matches the propeller.
Well the marine law here where I am in Australia allow 6hp without needing a licence.
So, really I would like to get that maximum 6hp.
6hp =4.47kW I beleive.
Which brings me to another question. Every motor seems to have a continous kW rating and then a peak kW rating. If I buy a 4000watt motor it can probably peak at say, 5.5, 6kW..... So I think that would class as being above the maximum of 4.47kW allowed by law here where I live.....?
So, if that is the case. I would need to look for a motor that only has a peak of 4.47kW, so I guess then that would be around 2.5 maybe 3kW motor?
Regarding the nose of the canoe going up. This guy runsa 6hp suzuki on his and man, its awesome. He had to make some cavitation plate thing under the stern end though.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2lU2yzjZfkw
So, really I would like to get that maximum 6hp.
6hp =4.47kW I beleive.
Which brings me to another question. Every motor seems to have a continous kW rating and then a peak kW rating. If I buy a 4000watt motor it can probably peak at say, 5.5, 6kW..... So I think that would class as being above the maximum of 4.47kW allowed by law here where I live.....?
So, if that is the case. I would need to look for a motor that only has a peak of 4.47kW, so I guess then that would be around 2.5 maybe 3kW motor?
Regarding the nose of the canoe going up. This guy runsa 6hp suzuki on his and man, its awesome. He had to make some cavitation plate thing under the stern end though.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2lU2yzjZfkw
TorontoBuilder
100 W
Peter, I concur with Alan, but I expect you to do whatever you wish regardless because people always want more power, despite what the evidence says.
I am a life long canoe enthusiast. I spent most of my youth in the Canadian wilderness in canoes of all sorts, including many motorized canoes.
I used to own a 17' square stern Chestnut prospector I used to haul supplies to a camp ~50 km up a river to support large trekking groups of inexperienced paddlers. I had a whopping 1.5 HP vintage Evinrude powering it and that was all that was needed. Most other guide companies had similar set-ups between 1.5 - 3.5 only the very odd one had a 5 HP despite the ubiquity of 5 HP on other small craft.
Why did most guide operators use far less than 5 HP? Because canoes are very unstable at the speeds that can be reached with a 5 HP motor. BUT most importantly, it is the application of higher torque at low speeds that is especially dangerous.
If there is any steering input on the motor when power is applied, the canoe quickly responds to the turn input (due to the hull shape and motor location), the side of the hull on the outside of the turn tends to roll sharply downward towards the waterline since most canoe hull designs have low initial stability. In many cases the gunnels submerge and the canoe takes on water and sinks.
Canoe hulls are not designed to get up on plane either, and high speeds are just as unsafe, even when modifications to the hull are made as seen in the video you supplied.
You would get along very well with something long the lines of what Alan sugested
I am a life long canoe enthusiast. I spent most of my youth in the Canadian wilderness in canoes of all sorts, including many motorized canoes.
I used to own a 17' square stern Chestnut prospector I used to haul supplies to a camp ~50 km up a river to support large trekking groups of inexperienced paddlers. I had a whopping 1.5 HP vintage Evinrude powering it and that was all that was needed. Most other guide companies had similar set-ups between 1.5 - 3.5 only the very odd one had a 5 HP despite the ubiquity of 5 HP on other small craft.
Why did most guide operators use far less than 5 HP? Because canoes are very unstable at the speeds that can be reached with a 5 HP motor. BUT most importantly, it is the application of higher torque at low speeds that is especially dangerous.
If there is any steering input on the motor when power is applied, the canoe quickly responds to the turn input (due to the hull shape and motor location), the side of the hull on the outside of the turn tends to roll sharply downward towards the waterline since most canoe hull designs have low initial stability. In many cases the gunnels submerge and the canoe takes on water and sinks.
Canoe hulls are not designed to get up on plane either, and high speeds are just as unsafe, even when modifications to the hull are made as seen in the video you supplied.
You would get along very well with something long the lines of what Alan sugested
tomjasz
1 GW
I used an electric trolling motor. And added Grumman outrunners. Being not fully able I ended up selling it but the trolling motor was nowhere near as heavy as a converted 3.5HP would be.
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