I ended up getting a general purpose pwm controller from Amazon. This one:nioko wrote:Hey Todd, did you have any progress in your project? I'm curious about the results..
I'm surprised by some of that. It looks like most people are using the plastic props when they modify their trolling motors. Are you using yours in salt water? Maybe the larger, heavier boat you have has something to do with it? I, of course, purchased the plastic props. Actually, I don't know if they are plastic or the glass composite. Time will tell I suppose.Current wrote:I just did a Minn Kota C2. The 30lb thrust freshwater version. I pulled out the switch that goes down to the resistor pack and wired in the ESC directly to the motor. I started with a Hobbywing QUICRUN 1060 Brushed ESC for $20 from Ebay that seemed to work great with a "servo tester" for $1.50 also from Ebay. Then it started over heating after 30 min because in was all closed up in the minn kotas upper housing. I decided to get the bigger ESC Hobbywing Quickrun RC QUICRUN WP 860 DUAL BRUSHED. Mainly because I wanted to use a 4s Lipo set up but also because it is beefier. Then I drilled vent holes and installed a CPU fan and a little fan directly on the ESC that came with the bigger HobbyWing ESC. Now it seems to be happy even in 90 degree weather for 2 hours at a time.
I was using a 10X6 RC prop (wood or glass composite because the plain plastic ones bend and stop working properly) but they really seem to catch anything in the water. Weeds, plastic, anything. Now I am running the original prop and it is much better at untangling itself from the weeds.
Definitely a HUGE improvement from resistor speed control and Lead Acid batteries! I really like being able to use 2s-4s lipo and have even built a 20AH 18650 4S pack for it. I use the setup to push my Chesapeake Light Craft Northeaster Dory http://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/wood ... g-kit.html
You don't want to over volt Minn Kota brushed motors too much. They will melt for sure
I wasn't really asking about the batteries but I was killing around one battery per year before because it was a typical flooded lead acid battery that I wasn't taking very good care of. Back when I first started using a trolling motor on the canoe I would run the battery down too far and no, I wouldn't trickle charge it over the winter. That's not my biggest issue with it though. The big problem is weight. It sucks using that big of a battery in a canoe.tomcat58 wrote:I am trying to understand why your going through your batteries in less then a year ? Not knowing what battery your using and how much you draw it down it's not possible to understand the problem.....
As far as a PWM controller I have the Minn Kota 45 Endura max which has a PWM controller in it already. I am running a walmart 29 series deep cycle battery and have been for more then 3 years now. I normally don't draw the battery down below a 80% charge and in rare conditions never below 50%...... How far are you taken your battery down to ? Also while storing the battery do you trickle charge it or just charge it once a month ? These simple guidelines have a great deal to due with how long a battery life is....
Or maybe I am having this long battery life because I am using solar panels to keep the battery charged ?
Here is my project and I am always looking for feed back to improve my solar boat. Lithium batteries are a future dream battery for me but till then Lead Acid is all I have to work with.
Serenity Solar Canoe