Cycling through the Aux functions would have some pretty bizarre effects on operation because of the interpretation of the other releated settings that configure those different functions. Here the option would instead to allow it to be configured to control presets as does the 2 or 3 postion switch for AuxA.
Is it possible to enable the option to choose AuxD input function based on preset? That would be nice too. I could switch presets by 3-button switch and use AuxD for levels? Would this help for "bizarre effects on operation because of the interpretation of the other releated settings"?teklektik wrote: ↑Jun 11 2018 12:58pmCycling through the Aux functions would have some pretty bizarre effects on operation because of the interpretation of the other releated settings that configure those different functions. Here the option would instead to allow it to be configured to control presets as does the 2 or 3 postion switch for AuxA.
This was considered, but it didn't seem an option many would find attractive so the Presets option for DigiAux didn't make the cut.
I might suggest you switch out the pot for a 2 or 3-postion switch to control presets and set up the DigiAux buttons with a bunch of levels to replace the pot functionality. You could try this to see if you like it by configuring the CA for a three position switch but just keep the pot installed. You can then switch presets by dialing the pot. Not really very nice in general, but it would give you an opportunity to try the buttons with 20 or so levels to replace the pot.
This won't allow you to apply the buttons to different max settings (ThO, PAS, etc) but you could control one setting by buttons (PAS) and just use the various presets to set some other different max limits in a general way.
These are all good ideas, but a simpler solution is to lift the bike's drive wheel(s) when parked or when it is being worked on and to keep the drive wheel clear of other objects.methods wrote: ↑Jun 12 2018 11:11amNOTICE:
Any HIGH POWER DIY ebike activity, which is responsible, involves a SAFETY INTERLOCK.
(low power activities... say under 1hp... are not as critical)
This may be as simple as a mechanical switch inline with the controller throttle input along with a "pull down resistor".
This is not mandated (of course...) but a wise option.
The idea is... that you should be able to "do anything you want to the system while powered" and have a single point at which you can block these changes from developing at the wheel.
Lots of options...
And we know that we often have to work on the system powered...
I have in my possession
A bike which will "randomly take off full throttle" (FYI it does not have a CA... but same theme)
The root cause is corrosion on the three throttle input pins.
The controller is not of the type sold by Grin - its an Ebay Special
I can lower the probability of full throttle run-away by spraying "terminal cleaner" into the contacts and cycling the connection 5 times. The bike then does not display the run-away behavior... but after a few months... it returns.
Its pretty much my favorite bike
I have an "Anderson OH SHIT E-Stop on it"
I have pulled it many times... as my 12S battery is strong enough to overcome the mechanical disk brakes.
(hence why I spec hydraulic brakes on anything better than a hp)
It is a little different, but there's this, for low current. I'd guess there are versions of the sensor chip that can measure current from the field created by current thru the main battery wires (though the one linked below doesn't work that way):
Personally, I'd fix that specific problem by removing the connector that is problematic and making a direct connection. Or filling the connector with dielectric grease to keep the water out, at the least.
Oops - been away from that code for too long and 'misremembered' the final outcome.
Both the Setup Utility Help File and Tool Tips explain these modes.
I can't seem to duplicate the battery issue.battery:
-if I switch between battery A and B, the voltages are shown as 0V (Ah value are correct, battery set-up is correct, ect)
Hmmm - not so good. The rpm logic was revised somewhat in this release and was checked for accuracy on the scope early on. It may be that a subsequent tinker fouled it up...pedal cadence:
-average RPM is to low (checked the set-up several times)
I'm using a Patterson Metropolis with 12 magnets on the chain ring and mostly ride in 'overdrive' gear (rpm x 1.6).
Usually the average cadence shown by the CA is between 115 and 125 rpm. Now, after the FW update to v3.11b2 its between 90 and 100 rpm.
Battery voltage in the main screen and 'Electrical Stats' is correct (anywhere else its correct as well).
Ratz - missed that one.
Frankly, we've been swamped with Justin's Sun Trip efforts and four different CA firmware products in the last months. The battery thing just never had a chance to see the light of day. Sucks, but...
The latest release is 3.11b2 but a b3 is about to be released to fix up a display glitch discovered by Marc S. (thanks Marc!).
No magic there, just fiddle around. Be sure the magnet lines up with the indented ring on the reed body. I would go to Console Setup at the Speedometer category preview screen where you can see the 'P' with little arrow. Then give the wheel a good spin and mess around with the magnet position and connectors while watching for the arrow to start flipping. Not much, but all I've got on that one.
Sorry 'bout that - misunderstood the question...izeman wrote: ↑Jun 18 2018 12:08amMy question about the speed sensor was on the electric side: Can i test it? Do i test resistance of it? Or apply voltage? Is this a hall sensor?
If i open the 2 pin connector between the CA and the sensor what can i measure on the CA side and what on the sensor side? This would help me narrow down the problem.
Edit: it's a reed switch?
Oops. I just checked the schematic - I had forgotten about the Schottky diode there with the cathode on the the Sp pad. So - electrically dissimilar from the ebrake input after all. This is arranged as a current-sinking input - only works by sinking current to GND.