E-bikeKit Front Wheel vs BMC

I scooped up one of those $144 26" front hubs that ebikekit was offering a few weeks ago as a spare to my BMC hub.

The wheel arrived well packed in about a week. There was a small dent in the rim, but it doesn't look like it will interfere with braking.

The right wire combination that works with e-crazyman's 48V 30A controller involves swapping blue and yellow on the hall and phase wires. I did a speed run with gps and got up to about 26 mph on the 48V 30a controller before running out of road. Didn't want to go much faster since I haven't set up the front brakes yet. My guess is that the top speed will be around 29or 3 mph faster than the BMC 400W. However, the BMC has better acceleration, is smoother and suprisingly quieter, and would have pulled to 26 in much shorter distance. The BMC was more than 3 times the cost though.

The spokes were really loose and making a creaking noise. I tightened and trued last night. Will hook up everything later to see how the brakes work with that rim. So far so good.

snowranger said:

I scooped up one of those $144 26" front hubs that ebikekit was offering a few weeks ago as a spare to my BMC hub.

The wheel arrived well packed in about a week. There was a small dent in the rim, but it doesn't look like it will interfere with braking.

The right wire combination that works with e-crazyman's 48V 30A controller involves swapping blue and yellow on the hall and phase wires. I did a speed run with gps and got up to about 26 mph on the 48V 30a controller before running out of road. Didn't want to go much faster since I haven't set up the front brakes yet. My guess is that the top speed will be around 29or 3 mph faster than the BMC 400W. However, the BMC has better acceleration, is smoother and suprisingly quieter, and would have pulled to 26 in much shorter distance. The BMC was more than 3 times the cost though.

The spokes were really loose and making a creaking noise. I tightened and trued last night. Will hook up everything later to see how the brakes work with that rim. So far so good.

Click to expand...

My $144 special in the 700C size also had a chip taken out of the rim however I'm going to lace it into a different rim so it's not a huge deal. I didn't even ride mine until I trued it up but it wasn't real bad to begin with and it has stayed true for the 150 miles I've put on it in the last week. Even though a geared motor may produce a greater volume of sound I find it more pleasing than the higher pitched noise from the 9C, though I am getting used to it.

I picked up a second controller from E-BikeKit while I was at it to add to the one I have from an unused rear motor kit I also bought from them on special. I did find that the controllers appear to be 15A models which they have tweaked to 22A so I could have saved a few bucks by buying a 15A E-crazyman controller. I did get a discount on the controller so I'm not really complaining. The motor should be quite strong with your 30A model though I find 22A to be entirely acceptable and am presently running it on one of the controllers I "unmodified" to 15A so I wouldn't tax my little 6Ah pack as much.

(EDIT: the controller with the solder mod was from an older E-BikeKit rear kit, the controller I recently purchased has two shunt wires with no solder blobs)

For the money I've spent on three kits so far I could have bought an Ezee kit or a BMC but it is fun messing around with this stuff and one day I might just splurge on one of the premium models

-R

the 350W controller from ecrazyman is the 6 FET version of the infineon and the 9 continents kit from jason has the 9 FET infineon controller and it can handle much more current, which is why it is rated at 22A.

i just upgraded two of the 9 FET controllers to 72V and almost 40A so it can run on two 36V packs of lifepo4.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10222

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yes, for 2 FETs per phase=15A, 3 FEts=22A, 4 FETs=30A.

did you you think about repairing the one with the problems? did the output FETS pop?

pictures of the damage?

That was before I got a solder sucker. I destroyed a couple of the FETs and solder pads trying to pull them off. I also couldn't tell which ones were bad just by looking at them in the circuit. It was easier to order a new controller than mess around with the 12 FETs. I may try to resurrect the old one when I get a chance.

there is a ton of solder holding the FETs on. not easy at all, even with a solder sucker. or the heat and slam method. plus you never know if the ones you don't remove will pop next.

dnmun said:

the 350W controller from ecrazyman is the 6 FET version of the infineon and the 9 continents kit from jason has the 9 FET infineon controller and it can handle much more current, which is why it is rated at 22A.

i just upgraded two of the 9 FET controllers to 72V and almost 40A so it can run on two 36V packs of lifepo4.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10222

Click to expand...

Yeah I know the controller from E-BikeKit has 9 FETs but it also appears to be modified from 15A to 22A via the tried and true "solder mod". This is a picture of the controller I got from Jason where you can see the extra solder blobs on the shunt to raise the current.



I removed the extra solder and the controller allows 15.35A which leads me to believe that's what it started at.

Oh and I can't say how many FETs the E-crazyman controller has but the 36V/350W model is rated at 25A

http://cgi.ebay.com/36V-350W-brushl...3998807QQihZ020QQcategoryZ11332QQcmdZViewItem





-R

i tried to help. if you feel the need to reduce the current, you can just cut off one of the shunt wires too, that would cut the current capacity in half. but i still don't get it. i always solder up the shunt to increase the capacity of the controller, always.

dnmun said:

i tried to help. if you feel the need to reduce the current, you can just cut off one of the shunt wires too, that would cut the current capacity in half. but i still don't get it. i always solder up the shunt to increase the capacity of the controller, always.

Click to expand...

Was this directed at me? The controller I show above only had the ONE shunt wire and was modified with solder to run at 22A. I removed the solder because I wanted it to run at 15A. That controller was also one I got from E-BikeKit a few months ago with my rear kit. I just opened the one I got with my front motor and it has two shunt wires with no solder mod.


View attachment 1

I have no intention to modify it to go higher.

-R

yes, the standard setup is 2 shunt wires. mine were cut halfway through in order to get the shunt resistance high enuff with the 2 shunts present to get the rating down to 22A. the heatsink and FETs can handle about 2kW for short periods, from a 48V pack. with the 100V caps then the controller will run easily at 72V. actually it ran well and was spinning like a bat outa hell at 86V.

i can't wait for jason to install it on his new bike. it is a radial spoked 20" wheel with the same 9x7 front hub motor as yours. we hope it will go over 40mph.