9C on a tour easy clone

T

torker

100 kW
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
1,693
Location
Udall, Ks.
Well I finally got another e-bike going. Thanks to Jason and his sale at E-Bikekit.com. I started out with a 24v brushed rear on a cruiser bike and it was getting so much use I knew I had to get something for my recumbent. I am totally impressed with the service from Jason and the performance of the kit. Right now I am running it on 36v sla 7.5 ah Not much range but the batts fit on the lower tube end to end. The tour easy is long and low so it rides nice. I got the front 20 in. kit. Now that I'm riding faster approx. 20 mph. I noticed my backwheel is not true. I never noticed it before. I noticed Justin has the rear 20 in. kits with disc brake mounts at ebike.ca I'd love to get that for my EZ-Rider. I will see if I can get a pic uploaded to my photobucket tonight. Right after I take another ride :D

I'd also like to thank all on here for lots of info, I really like Dogmans reviews.. Take care.. http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/rolinfun/
 
Ok I think I got the link on my post. Still need to figure out how to attach the image directly. I am a relative computer noob..
DSCF5859.jpg
Lets see if this works.
 
Why thank you. I really like getting new motors cheaper than retail. I'm hoping for free someday, but that may not ever happen. What I really need is all the toys to do em right. Cyclanalyst for starters, and then battery testing stuff like others have. Right now all I really do is ride the crap out of em and report how fast they melt.
 
haha yea you do some pretty good torture tests. I am suddenly between jobs so I think I'll hold off on the extreme reliability tests. This 9c sure seems to have good pull for a dd motor. It'll spin on anything loose. I am pretty sure my speedo is whacked. It does not jive with my other bikes at all so I need to get my wife to pace me in the car or something. Plus I still need to get the battery mounting/ ductape cleaned up. Actually the rear wheel will have to come first, not only is it out of round but there is a loud knock in the hub when I pedal. :x Sure is fun though. This bike has got more miles in the last 3 days than all year..
 
You can calibrate a speedo by checking the odometer against a known distance. You can also do the measure the tire thing, but for me, I know the Kmart is exactly 6 miles from home, so I just look at the odo as I go by when I have changed a tire or something.
 
I've got one hiway going north with wide shoulders that I'll try with the mi. markers. As far as the rear wheel, I may just look for a good single speed rear wheel to try out. Kansas is pretty flat and I have been in 5th gear almost the whole time. A 3 speed would be plenty. I'll try to get a couple more pics today too.
 
Well got alot done today. Finally changed out the rear wheel and tire, much smoother. And made some covers for the batts and wiring. Coroplast. Here is my hitech coroplast forming machine. Actually couldn't get it hot enough but it did help.
coro-form.jpg

Then I'll skip to the finish product/ mama called for dinner.
done-fornow.jpg

I have more pics but have to upload. Riding better all the time...
 
did you file off the lawyer lips and file into the shoulders inside of the dropout too when you mounted the axle? can you show a close up of the torque arm and how it works on that fork?
 
Actually these are old mountain bike forks. No lawyer lips. I did have to use a dremel and a flat file so the axle would drop all the way into the slot. Also on these forks the slot is parallel to the fork so the torque arm lines up with it. I'll get a good pic tomorrow. I wanted to install this kit on my EZ-Rider recumbent, it has rear suspension and disc brakes, but I would have lost the disc brakes, plus spread the forks a quarter inch and the slot was at an angle so I would need different torque arms and also grind off the lawyer lips. It was a little more than I wanted to do to that bike. It's my most expensive bike in the garage and it rides so nice I didn't want to screw with it.

I will get some more pics up.
 
OK Got a couple more in photobucket. I am so slow at this puter $h1t..
cut-station.jpg

Here is the wheel..
wheelleft.jpg

And the other side. Yea I haven't hooked up the torque arms. I have checked the bolts after every ride though. I guess I am gonna use some hose clamps, wish I could come up with something better. If I get the chance to build a bike strictly for e-power I will do some custom fab up front..
wheelright.jpg
 
Heres a shot of one side cover. The other side is sheet metal. I plan on mounting a key switch so I did one side metal and one coroplast. In this you can see my Radio Shack connectors. Not the best but ok for 25 amps I think.
covers.jpg
 
I am up to 50 mi. on the 9c motor and it runs good. Fixing lots of stuff now that I'm putting some miles on it. Now I've got a pedal knocking. Everything on this bike was used except tires and cables so no surprise. All the knowledge gleaned here made the switch to electric painless though. Now I need another/better job so I can try out some more toys.
 
No problem with traction. It does spin on loose sand/gravel/grass. I tried a dirt/gravel road the other day.I don't think I'll do that again. It wasn't so much the loss of traction but the tiller in the steering. Also no big hills around here so as long as I stick to the pavement it's all good..
 
Um....Torker. I would be wary of those Tamaya type connectors from RS. I have had them melt down at 15 amps! I can't think of the company that makes them, but they universally suck!
otherDoc

Edit: Molex! and they still suck!
 
Otherdoc, Yea I was thinking the same thing. I had those connectors for my 250w 24v bike and never used them so they got used here. I need to get some Deans or Andersons. Not sure if I need a special crimper. I haven't researched them yet.
 
I went back to soldering my Andersons, since my crimper (and crimping skills) seem to be below par. Luckily I can solder well. I think a good crimping tool really helps!
otherDoc
 
I have found the regular crimper from home depot quite adequate, but it has to be used properly. Aligning the pointy part of the crimper with the seam in the connector barrel is the key thing. Then rotate 90 degrees and squash again with one of the flatter parts of the crimper jaws. Crimpers that are part of a set of wire strippers won't do it, you need some kind of dedicated crimping tool.
 
Yea on the cheap molex I crimped and soldered them. That may be why I am getting away with using them. I figure the flat speaker type connectors on the batteries are worse. I didn't have any bare ones so they are only crimped. Always upgrades to do..
 
a lot of times you can put a tiny bead of solder on the edge of those blade connectors to hold it in place and it can carry most if not all the current through a small spot, not big, and they don't come apart later. then just heat to disassemble the connector. put the controller current on separate switch and you can leave the mains attached permanently that way, just the in line fuse to open the circuit.
 
dnmun said:
a lot of times you can put a tiny bead of solder on the edge of those blade connectors to hold it in place and it can carry most if not all the current through a small spot, not big, and they don't come apart later. then just heat to disassemble the connector. put the controller current on separate switch and you can leave the mains attached permanently that way, just the in line fuse to open the circuit.
Click to expand...

That brings up another subject. Right now I unhook my battery to charge. I put female conn. on the controller and my charger and male on the battery. If I were to set it up with another connector just for charging would I need to use a diode to protect my controller while charging? Right now it is pretty simple though/for me anyway to just unhook it and plug in the charger. It might make it simpler for someone else not familiar with ebikes, IF I were to sell it..
 
no, just splice the charging lead into the BMS for lifepo4. then you can run the output directly to the controller through a fuse. some people put anderson disconnects in that line, and i was pointing out that once the bike is built permanent, then the mains can be soldered at those little spade connectors, not if you have the andersons. or you can solder the ground and put anderson on the positive lead from the battery to the controller, but you have to have switch for the controller current or it will drain your battery if you leave it connected..
 
No I don't have lithium, yet. I might leave it as is until I do. Everything is working good and it is workable for me. When I replace the SLA then I will rework the wiring. I'll probably want 48v by then. :idea: Maybe not on this bike though. One thing about a recumbent is you can't stand up for the bumps and with a hardtail 20 mph seems fast enough. It is awesome on smooth surfaces though. And I love the handling the way it is set up now but it'll really jar the back on rough stuff.
 
Yeah, torker! Recumbents really cry out for rear suspensions, at least. So do their drivers! :)
otherDoc
 
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