Got it Running!! Cursed Anderson connectors..

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Deepkimchi   1 kW

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Got it Running!! Cursed Anderson connectors..

Post by Deepkimchi » Nov 12 2007 4:49am

Finally. Went for a short test ride right before dark here. Everything works except had to pedal back because of those flippin Anderson connectors.

I never had so much crap trying to crimp the connectors. You can get the wire secure, but then the crimped area has to be square & even for the terminal to fit into the plastic housing.

I probably spent 5-10 minutes per connector, after I ruined 3 of the terminals. Thank God I bought a bag of 25..

Then the d---m things don't stay connected to each other. I scotch taped one, and when I hit a bump another one in the battery box came loose.

ANYWAY - everything works, cycleanalyst, motor, controller.

Surprised my wife when it took off, completely noiseless.

It pulls the hills on both sides of our house fairly easily. Had the toolbox bungee-d to my rack with the battery loose inside, didn't want to go too far.

I'm in business !!
Bike: Cheap Korean Alton
Motor: 5304 Crystalyte rear mount
Controller: Crystalyte 72V 40A
36V (10ah) Lifebatt - the last from Gary G before Apr 08
36 V (10 ah) cells from AndyH - assembled, tested and ready to ride
Tires: Maxxis Holy Rollers
Down to 19 cells..

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BiGH   100 kW

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Post by BiGH » Nov 12 2007 6:30am

thats cool :)

sounds like you got some dud andersons, mine clamp together with such force i risk stripping my skin off when i go to disconnect!.

nothing like the surprise of someone who thinks its "just a bicycle", especially when you're running high voltage!
Bike / Motor: Electric specalized rock hopper with Crystalyte 504 / 26"
Batt: Yesa 72v (36v*2) (getting 6.7ah) LiFEPO4 in a Topeak bag. OR 1x eMTB 48v 20ah pack (straps to frame) -depending on range requirements.
Controller: Unmodified 48a digital with 4110 Fets
Current Prob: Bike is in parts getting painted / drying / testing replacement BMS
Trail of Dead Parts:Avanti Frame, 408 motor *melted*, 35a controller - i broke by trying to mod it 2nd controller - blew it up.
My Ride

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Ypedal   100 GW

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Post by Ypedal » Nov 12 2007 7:13am

Congrats on the first voyage !

Andersons work very well when done right, i can strip,crimp,install housings on a pair under 2 minutes. I have not yet had one fail. :P

What crimp tool do you have on hand ?
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Mark_A_W   100 kW

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Post by Mark_A_W » Nov 12 2007 7:34am

I solder them because when you crimp them they don't fit in the housing properly anymore and then it's impossible to fully insert the inner bit in the housing...grr..
Under construction: Giant DH Team, MAC Shanghai, Infineon 18 FET controller, 64v Headway battery. LINK!!

Retired: Kona Dawg Dually + Bomber Triple Clamp forks with Nine Continents front hub motor, 48v 10Ah Headway LiFePO4 Pack + 12v 10Ah Headway LiFePO4 booster pack (nominal 64v).

Powered by the sun :)

Dead: Jamis Dakar frame, Mongoose Pro Downhill frame, cooked Lipo booster pack....and various other bits and pieces...

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knoxie   10 MW

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Post by knoxie » Nov 12 2007 7:56am

Hi

Good news on your ride, where did you get your Anderson connectors from? there are a load of Chinese copies on the Market that are really poor ( a lot of the Point-1 packs had them on).

I used to solder them but you don't need to, buy a decent crimping tool and they slide in the housings and hold the wire perfectly, I can strip and fit one in seconds, I buy them in packs of a 100 from here.

http://www.powerwerx.com

I use these crimps, they are nice and cheap and do a great job.


Image

Another tip is make sure you get the little dowel pins as well, if you have 2 wires to pairs to connect (i.e. battery to controller) then slide the housing together and fit the dowel pin in-between the 2 of them, this makes them connect together so much better than having them on their own.

They only dont go in to the housing if you over crimp or fit too small a gauge wire, this causes the body of the crimp to skew off centre making it hard to get in, make sure your cable is a nice snug fit, if you are using smaller cable then it is wiser to solder.

Also its a good idea to put a little bit of Vaseline inside the contact housing as they will spark erode over time.

I only use the little 30A ones, I regularly pull 40A through them with no problems.

Good luck with the bike

Knoxie

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fechter   100 GW

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Post by fechter » Nov 12 2007 11:32am

I found that sometimes the body of the connector pin gets bent when you crimp them, causing them to not fit properly in the housing. You can bend them back, or just solder them and forget about crimping.

We'll wait for a more complete test ride and report!
You might have the most powerful ebike in all of Korea!
"One test is worth a thousand opinions"

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Drunkskunk   100 GW

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Post by Drunkskunk » Nov 12 2007 11:52am

Congradulations on the maiden run!

I share your frustration with Anderson's. They seem to be well loved by many, but they are still an aluminum connector, and even when crimped and assembled correctly, I find them to be a pain.

Unfortunatly, the only real alternitive in wide use is Deans. Electricly, its a much better, lower resistance conection, and its much easier to see and feel if you have a good conection or not, But its an open, unsheilded design on one side, and it involves solder only, with no provision for crimping.

I use both right now, but I prefer Deans. I've never had a Deans fail. I've never had one get hot, I've tested my wireing with Deans installed and found lower resistance, But I've also had the batteries at 74 volts decide to arc across the plug as I was hooking them up with Deans. Its not a perfect solution.

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Deepkimchi   1 kW

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Post by Deepkimchi » Nov 12 2007 4:02pm

I have the same GS type crimper Knoxie has and I believe I bought the contacts from Powerwerx.

How about a step by step with pictures of how to crimp the connectors? And what they should look like when finished?. I tried the rear crimp to start the tabs going down, and followed up with the front one. I consider myself somehwat detailed but Lord that was difficult.


Yeah bud, I think I have the only electric bike in this area, never seen one here.

Would have been more enthusiatic but getting over a cold. That was like the Phoenix on Star Trek's first contact.
Bike: Cheap Korean Alton
Motor: 5304 Crystalyte rear mount
Controller: Crystalyte 72V 40A
36V (10ah) Lifebatt - the last from Gary G before Apr 08
36 V (10 ah) cells from AndyH - assembled, tested and ready to ride
Tires: Maxxis Holy Rollers
Down to 19 cells..

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xyster   1 GW

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Post by xyster » Nov 13 2007 12:42pm

Glad it's finally running. :)

Crimping the Anderson's with standard crimpers is an art that takes a little practice.
Ebike: 5304/20", 72V 35A controller, 33AH 80V 20s15p (18650 sized cells) DIY lithium-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 47&start=0
Scooter: '06 Stealth s1000, 48V 30A, 4x10ah SLA
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=148
Ebike: '06 Currie Mongoose, 32V 35A, 32V 22AH hybrid SLA/Li-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1010

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Ypedal   100 GW

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Post by Ypedal » Nov 13 2007 1:12pm

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 59&start=0

cursed search feature.. had to browse thru 14 pages in the technical forum lol... 8)
ES site status page:
http://www.ypedal.com/ES/ES.htm
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deecanio   10 MW

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Post by deecanio » Nov 13 2007 4:38pm

http://www.prc68.com/I/PowerPole.shtml

this link i found quite useful when i first used the andersons - i only use the 30a ones too like paul and i have had no issues at all yet, they crimp really well (and i have the western radio crimps which are supposed to be poor).
i did have a few issues with the 45a ones but they dont have the round body like the 30a ones,these leave me a great crimp practically squishing the strands into a nice tight block,solid.


cheers


D

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oatnet   10 MW

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Post by oatnet » Nov 13 2007 6:45pm

I crimp my andersons using an aftermarket crimper like Knoxies, and while most held, some connectors eventually stripped off and left bare wire ends. Now I ALSO get a little solder in there - a 100w iron to the back of the spoon, rest the solder wire against the base of the connector, and it quickly wicks up enough solder to fill the gaps in the barrel; I quickly use the crimping tool to suck the heat out of the wire. If the iron is hot, this is an extra 20 seconds, and I haven't had one of these come loose... yet.

-JD

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Deepkimchi   1 kW

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Post by Deepkimchi » Nov 14 2007 7:22pm

Thanks Deecanio..

The link opened up a question I had, it states the finger of the plier type crimp presses on the solid side of the contact (not the split side).

I was positioning the finger across the split, trying to press both at the same rate. Maybe that's why I had so much trouble.

DK
Bike: Cheap Korean Alton
Motor: 5304 Crystalyte rear mount
Controller: Crystalyte 72V 40A
36V (10ah) Lifebatt - the last from Gary G before Apr 08
36 V (10 ah) cells from AndyH - assembled, tested and ready to ride
Tires: Maxxis Holy Rollers
Down to 19 cells..

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deecanio   10 MW

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Post by deecanio » Nov 15 2007 1:24pm

hey DK,

glad that it helped - it showed me that i had the first couple upside down too.


cheers


D

sabrewalt   100 W

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Soldering iron

Post by sabrewalt » Dec 20 2007 9:51am

I use one of these on my powerpoles. Butane Soldering iron

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... age=search

I also daub a lot of flux paste on them. No problems.

deardancer3   10 kW

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Post by deardancer3 » Dec 20 2007 1:12pm

I also have some problems with Anderson power poles.

Some things i have done; made little mini bungie cords (out of good rubberbands and plastic bottle cap) to hold the seperating connectors together,

For roll pins-I use appropriately sized tines from plastic forks; I dont like small metal roll pins around my battery stuff.


Dick

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EMF   100 kW

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Re:

Post by EMF » Dec 21 2007 3:37pm

deardancer3 wrote:I also have some problems with Anderson power poles.

Some things i have done; made little mini bungie cords (out of good rubberbands and plastic bottle cap) to hold the seperating connectors together,

For roll pins-I use appropriately sized tines from plastic forks; I dont like small metal roll pins around my battery stuff.


Dick
BRILLIANT!!! Dude, the bottle cap bungie cord thingy is very clever indeed. :D

swbluto   100 GW

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Re:

Post by swbluto » Feb 02 2009 12:10am

xyster wrote:Glad it's finally running. :)

Crimping the Anderson's with standard crimpers is an art that takes a little practice.
It's an art that I've mastered! After my first failed attempt, I searched online to see what they are supposed to look like(And the $50 tool you're supposed to buy to make them) and I eventually found a method to achieve the same basic shape while ensuring the wire is solidly secured. It's pretty easy now though it does take a little time(about 5 minutes or so for a pair.).

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Vim   10 W

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Re: Got it Running!! Cursed Anderson connectors..

Post by Vim » Feb 05 2009 1:08am

Anderson Connectors -
Sorry if somebody's already mentioned this, but I've found that if you hold down the spring in the connector body with some small needle-nose pliers, it's a whole lot easier to get the connector to push through and 'snap' all the way in. A whole lot easier.
Vim

chvidgov.bc.ca   10 kW

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Re: Got it Running!! Cursed Anderson connectors..

Post by chvidgov.bc.ca » May 05 2009 5:58pm

I've had good luck crimping Andersons with a standard crimper...the secret is to place a small nail in the groove of the crimp and push down on the nail with the standard crimper, which will "roll" the groove edges inward as desired. A little more general forming with the crimper and it is ready to snap into the plastic body.
I saw a video somewhere of this technique and it really works...

chvidgov.bc.ca   10 kW

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Re: Got it Running!! Cursed Anderson connectors..

Post by chvidgov.bc.ca » May 05 2009 6:03pm

Here is a visual of the nail tip for crimping them with regular crimpers...

http://wh7da.wordpress.com/2007/12/24/c ... onnectors/

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