- What kind of throttle do you have? (hall? Magura?)
- What are your ThrI->MaxInput and ThrI->FaultVolt settings?
These are the only remaining settings that I can think of that are uniquely in play when you are running flat out....
teklektik wrote:You can transfer your old ramp values by taking the inverse to convert sec/v to v/sec. (Press the "1/x" key on your calculator). For example:hjns wrote:
- ramp values of V/sec takes some adjusting, but is actually more intuitive. I changed everything to 99.99V/sec for immediate effect. Will report my experiences.
If you previously had a P5 ramp value of 1.25sec/v,
the revised P6 value should be 1/(1.25sec/v) = 0.80 v/sec.
Ok - well - it doesn't sound like temp, LVC, or throttle faults are causing the cutouts... seemed unlikely, but had to ask.Merlin wrote:(my limits are 120/150) because i have the tempprobe direct on one phase to windigs. in my opinion it is the hottest point.
after 150°c reading in my ca you have after 5 min only 90° still standing bike.... after reopened there was no black or brown melting....
vmin(77v) cant kick in because i have it 10v under my real LVC. (87v)
My throttle in and out and fail are: 0,83/4,24 /4,49
My knee-jerk reaction is to have you switch to Current Throttle which will directly tie the controller current to throttle voltage - typically nice and controllable. On the other hand, if you have a junk throttle with really dreadful linearity, the improvement may not fulfill you expectations. For me, Current Throttle alone is enough reason to get a V3 - there's that much improvement.Merlin wrote: I have a Hall Thumb throttle (but i like to have a magura but in germany i cant find/get one) since yesterday.
now i have a hall full throttle to test. now i try the cheap china lyen throttle....(and found another PRoblem ...i think i need a throttle mapper or something, cos it is hard to cruise on half thottle....MINIMAL movings on wrist the bike shoots forward (or get off throttle) that sucks a lot.
Ya - you could set it higher - maybe 4.9v. This might improve things if the max throttle voltage is jittery for some unknown reason, but what you have should work as it is.Merlin wrote:maybe set the thottle fault on 4,79?
Justin had scheduled a busy year in 2013 and the delays in getting PAS working properly for the projected 3.0 production release date were a real scheduling setback (we got all the way to P6 after the planned release of P1). He had to move on to address the other business matters that had slid because of the extended V3 effort. The V3 P6 release seemed stable so new V3 firmware work was of reduced priority.Merlin wrote:whats about justin? is he still alive? working on CA v4 huh? ;P
Well, the V3 does not normally work with that type switch but you could make a small wiring change to make it possible. We just need to use a pulldown resistor that will drop the uproc port sufficiently low considering the worst case internal port 15K pullup resistor and the extra 1K resistor in series with the uproc input.izeman wrote:does the CA support ebrake switches that are NC as well? i'd like to use a NO reed switch which is closed when the lever is NOT pulled. so if it's pulled the switch opens instead of closes (what CA expects afaik). any chance to use them as well?
Okay - I pinged Justin and here's his advice on setup:icecube57 wrote:ok Im making this post since there is absolutely no documentation for the tdcm torque sensing bottom bracket.
Looking to get this solved very soon and get more documentation for this BB.
He goes on to describe that with some experimentation he will be able to provide a table to assist in setting up Trq->TrqScale based on the chainring tooth count. I will get that into the Guide as soon as it is available.Justin_le wrote:The #PAS poles need to be set at 12, the sensor type needs to be set to 'custom', and the value for the gain actually depends on the chainring diameter. So for this what we do is apply the back brakes and then apply a known mass (like 50lb) on the forwards pedal to produce a known torque, while watching the change in voltage scale on the setup menu screen. So if it shows 2.45V with no pedal weight, and then say 3.1V with a 50lb mass on a 175mm crank, then the scaling is:
50 * 4.44 N/lb * 0.175m / (3.1V - 2.45V) = 59 N-m / V.
Since it measures the backwards thrust on the crank then it is chainring size dependant since a larger chainring produces less force for the same pedal torque. Most setups have wound up between 30-80 Nm/V. If you just select 50 as an initial guess it will work fine, just that the human watts might be off by a bit.
Does anyone know if this code ever got written? For now I am not worrying too much about my controller temp because of the cold weather and because of the new EB324 cooling design (FETs are heat sinked to the sides of the case instead of only to the top). I already have a 10K thermistor installed on a FET and would really like to see what kind of temps are going on inside of the controller and motor at the same time. If the motor could use normal temp input and the controller could use the AUX input that would be awesome. Then when I get my cycle analogger it would be cool to see controller temp vs. motor temp.justin_le wrote:In principle Aux could be made as a 2nd thermometer though I haven't coded for that. But your other suggestion actually works OK with NTC thermistors. If you get two 20K thermistors and wire them up in parallel, then it behaves like a single 10K thermistor that (due to the high nonlinearity) is mostly weighted to show the higher of the two temps.Fishmasterdan wrote:Wow that is very nice..
Would it be possible to make the aux into a second thermo?? or possibly series connecting 2 probes and get a read out of the highest one?