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Get real world experience and user feedback on the electric bicycle products.
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D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Nov 28 2006 11:35pm

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Last edited by D-Man on Aug 08 2011 5:09pm, edited 16 times in total.

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29a   100 W

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Post by 29a » Nov 29 2006 12:21pm

hi D-Man

nice review ty

curious what your normal non assist speed was (pre conversion) and your speed now (after conversion ) with extra weight without assist over same conditions.
Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted.
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D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Nov 29 2006 3:29pm

Hello 29a,

With me on the bike, total rolling weight of me plus the bike is about 240 lbs, not something you want to pedal too far. Especially up a hill. I think I pedalled it at 8mph in the flats without assist. Its not that difficult to pedal, just takes more effort. It coasts fine down hill.

I forgot to mention that the hub motor did get hot at the end of the hill climb I did above. Not super hot, but I would say it was the beginning point of hot. I could smell it. It was a 10 mile round trip hill climb. There was a 15 minute rest I took at the halfway point. Usually it only gets warm in the flats.
Last edited by D-Man on Feb 14 2007 12:33pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Elmweaver   10 W

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Post by Elmweaver » Nov 29 2006 5:03pm

I have a couple questions, how are you connecting batteries to get 42 volts and what was the original distance you could travel at 36 volts (15mph).

Nice write up and great looking bike. - Dan

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Nov 29 2006 7:55pm

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Last edited by D-Man on Aug 08 2011 5:08pm, edited 9 times in total.

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Nov 29 2006 8:11pm

Wiring and connectors
Last edited by D-Man on Mar 15 2007 10:07pm, edited 16 times in total.

knightmb   100 kW

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Post by knightmb » Nov 29 2006 11:55pm

I think it looks great, very clean and straight forward design. I recognize the pack in the back because it's the same one I'm using, hehe. I love those things because they hold so much (including batteries). I love the pannier pockets on the side though, great for getting things from the store.

knightmb   100 kW

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Post by knightmb » Nov 30 2006 12:05am

Also I wanted ask, have you thought about running the wires through the front of the pack or are the new ones completely blocked off in the front now?
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29a   100 W

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Post by 29a » Nov 30 2006 12:13pm

D-Man

Not meaning any diss
If u where to do your bike again from scatch would u still use the 408 motor or something else given your experiences.
Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted.
- Albert Einstein

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Nov 30 2006 1:50pm

Knightmb - thanks for the idea but the key switch wiring is in the way anyhow, so I ran the wires in the same way.

29a - If you don't have big hills, the 408 works fine. If I had lightweight batteries, 48 volt, it would be even better on hills but they cost too much. I noticed my bike will go up 7 degree hill easily with me walking next to it!

If I lived in the hills and didn't have a bike, I would look closely at the new elec trec electric bicycle with 600 watt motor. You can change the gearing. (evdeals.com) And because it runs on only 24 volts, (frame mount batteries), you could double up, and triple up with nimh on the back for more range.

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Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh   10 MW

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Post by Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh » Feb 22 2007 5:58am

knightmb wrote:I think it looks great, very clean and straight forward design. I recognize the pack in the back because it's the same one I'm using, hehe. I love those things because they hold so much (including batteries). I love the pannier pockets on the side though, great for getting things from the store.

Of course it looks clean. That's cuz the post is blank!

Sure wish I coulda seen it. :cry:
Kick down the barricades Listen what the kids say.
From time to time people change their minds But the Frock is here to stay.
I've seen it all from the bottom to the top Everywhere I go the kids wanna Frock.
Around the world or around the block Everywhere I go the kids wanna Frock.

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Feb 22 2007 4:09pm

Picture of the bike is over in the "photo section". (Specialized E-bike Conversion) As soon as I get the suspension fork installed, I'll update this thread with new pictures. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Update: There won't be a suspension fork. I'm sending it back. It has loose parts inside of it and I don't like the crown. Mail order sucks. I'll stick with the steel fork. Going to look into high volume tires so I can use less pressure to get better "suspension."

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Mar 10 2007 7:09pm

Just wanted to say a few things about the Go-Hub kit. The problem with it is that you get very little slack in the wire harness that goes from the controller to the motor, at least in my kit. If you had a bike with a large travel suspension fork, you would have to lengthen it. Of course you can hack the harness if you want but too bad they didn't make it longer. From this picture, you can see it only has 1 inch of slack with no suspension.
Last edited by D-Man on Mar 11 2007 4:32pm, edited 1 time in total.

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Mar 10 2007 7:16pm

Here's some before and after pictures of the battery wiring. I removed the various guages of wire they used and replaced with 8 guage wire I got a local hardware store. I stopped short of the controller as you can see from the picture above where it returns back to 12 guage wire. I got rid of the 6 volt battery isolation switch I didn't need and the anderson connectors. Looks more basic now.

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Ypedal   100 GW

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Post by Ypedal » Mar 10 2007 9:08pm

Nice pictures.

One tiny suggestion for you, would be a good idea to isolate each battery tab with non conductive material and then tape them with filament or similar tape.. this prevents the wires from moving in the first place.. and accomplish that and you will never risk sparks in the event something moves..

How far are you traveling on this rig ?
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D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Mar 10 2007 10:04pm

Thanks for your concern Ypedal. I forgot to mention about the plywood hatch they give you with the Go-hub. It goes on top of the batteries. It keeps them from jumping around and short circuiting. Plus I have two large dowels on either side of the batteries. The wires are somewhat stiff. They were laminated with thin clear plastic. I unwrapped the plastic to make them in some spots more pliable. One good thing about the plywood, you can stick another battery on the front side of it. I had a 12v-7ah (borrowed from a relatives alarm system) battery on it when I was testing it on 48 volts for hill climbing. I could stick another 6 volt in there also but don't really need it here in the flat terrain. Plus the roads are being torn up and you can't go that fast anyhow. I use to go around 13 miles regularly but have backed off due to construction.

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Mar 15 2007 6:16pm

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Last edited by D-Man on Aug 08 2011 5:09pm, edited 4 times in total.

giveahoot   100 W

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Post by giveahoot » Mar 17 2007 2:15am

This is very interesting and useful information for newbs like me. Especially on such a popular and highly-praised kit like this one. Thanks!

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Mar 17 2007 12:07pm

No problem giveahoot, yeah, its not a super fast bike or anything but its a lot of fun. :)

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Mar 20 2007 7:39pm

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Last edited by D-Man on Aug 08 2011 5:10pm, edited 16 times in total.

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