I guess you've picked up by my "PopPopEd" handle that I am not one of the youngest to post on this forum. But here I am, having started a bike shop in Maryland 40 years ago, now living in the flats of Florida, but still doing single-track xc. About 6 months ago i began doing the homework to build pedal assisted bikes for me and my wife. My thought was to take some of the pedal mashing out of the hills (we vacation in Asheville, NC) and give us a bit of an edge on sugar sand xc and off road climbs.
The good news is that our bikes turned out much better than expected. Simply amazing. I picked up the name "Paul" with EM3EV on this forum and he was patient as I battered him with my early questions and followed up with wonderfully accurate technical support after the sale. Paul is a good guy and we are in the process of buying additional kits from him.
Our conversions started with decent hard tails, good front fork, wheels etc. I was careful to set up the 9-speed cassettes to have gear five aligned with the Bafang front chainring. We've never had a chain slip off.
I eliminated the use of the hand throttle and EBrakes. We simply pedal and within 1/2 turn of the crank, the motor is running. Stop pedaling and within 1/2 second the motor stops. Our hydraulic disc brakes can easily stop the bike, even before the motor stops in a panic. We use one of the "big green button" switches on the left side of the handlebar, shifter on the right. EVERY TIME WE SHIFT GEARS the green button is used to instantly kill the motor, pedal crank to switch the gear, release the green button while you are pedaling in the gear you want and away you go. Perfectly simple and if I need to kill the motor, the green button is always there if I need it.
The Bafang system takes a bit of getting used to....like 5-minutes. Basically, you start pedaling using the pedal cadence you like, say 60 cranks per minute. Then...and here is where it is more of an art than a science....select the gear that you'd generally use if you didn't have the motor. Pedal along as you increase the pedal assist level. You'll go faster and select a higher gear to avoid pedaling too fast and wearing yourself out. When on a single track XC I find that I'll play within a few gears and a few up or down pedal assist levels while I'm riding. For example, say I'm clipping along, pedaling normal and I see a patch of sugar sand. Without the motor, I'd get off and walk. But just for the fun of it, I'll downshift to 1st gear (remember to use the green button while you shift), punch up the pedal assist and crank like a madman. Sand flies and I plow through. Really too much fun.
Hills? Like 45 degree climbs? Again, with 750watts and a quick pedal cadence, up up and away.
Some tips...
1. Get the C965 controller and use the instructions to select the 9 step PAS program. I've checked the power of PAS 9 against the throttle only and the throttle is only a very slight increase in power, say 10%. I've removed the throttle since, just 9 step PAS now. I don't want an electric scooter. Hey, I have a 650cc motorcycle, why do I want an electric scooter? The feeling of PAS is truly fun. Like an Iron Man suit that looks like a bicycle. You pedal and the bike amplifies your effort. Bionic biking is here to stay.
2. I decided on a 9 speed cassette as I can use a heavier chain and I think the wider physical gap between the gears makes gear selection more precise. Sure I can get more gears with a 10 or 11 speed cassette but the chain is thinner and the cassette gear gap is thinner. Chain angle also increases to the crank. So I like 9 speeds, it's working for me.
3. Gotta have the green disconnect button to allow crank turning without the motor pushing during gear changes. Get used to using it.
4. Keep the motor spinning. If you can't find a gear to pedal at a steady pace and mash the pedals, slowing down the motor, it will overheat. Electric motors want to spin quickly. Slow them down under load and you will hurt any electric motor. Downsize your crank gear, increase the size of the granny gear in the rear cassette to keep from overloading the motor if you are really pushing on the climbs.
5. Place the green button and the PAS controller for the C965 next to each other and the next to the left handlebar grip. Rotate them such that you can use your left thumb to depress the green motor kill button while you change gears with your right hand, or use your left thumb to add/detract PAS. Make it ergonomic so your left hand stays on the grip and brake levers.
6. Be sure to adjust the chain length so there is good tension when in high (small cassette gear) but one or two links left to avoid over tensioning in the lowest "granny" gear.
7. Buy from someone like Paul who is willing to email answers to questions.
8. Be safe, wear a helmet since you are now averaging 20 to 30 mph on your knobby tire mountain bike. Really your speed with at least double if not triple. Force = mass times acceleration. You'll hurt a lot more hitting a tree at 25 than you will at 10.
PopPopEd
The good news is that our bikes turned out much better than expected. Simply amazing. I picked up the name "Paul" with EM3EV on this forum and he was patient as I battered him with my early questions and followed up with wonderfully accurate technical support after the sale. Paul is a good guy and we are in the process of buying additional kits from him.
Our conversions started with decent hard tails, good front fork, wheels etc. I was careful to set up the 9-speed cassettes to have gear five aligned with the Bafang front chainring. We've never had a chain slip off.
I eliminated the use of the hand throttle and EBrakes. We simply pedal and within 1/2 turn of the crank, the motor is running. Stop pedaling and within 1/2 second the motor stops. Our hydraulic disc brakes can easily stop the bike, even before the motor stops in a panic. We use one of the "big green button" switches on the left side of the handlebar, shifter on the right. EVERY TIME WE SHIFT GEARS the green button is used to instantly kill the motor, pedal crank to switch the gear, release the green button while you are pedaling in the gear you want and away you go. Perfectly simple and if I need to kill the motor, the green button is always there if I need it.
The Bafang system takes a bit of getting used to....like 5-minutes. Basically, you start pedaling using the pedal cadence you like, say 60 cranks per minute. Then...and here is where it is more of an art than a science....select the gear that you'd generally use if you didn't have the motor. Pedal along as you increase the pedal assist level. You'll go faster and select a higher gear to avoid pedaling too fast and wearing yourself out. When on a single track XC I find that I'll play within a few gears and a few up or down pedal assist levels while I'm riding. For example, say I'm clipping along, pedaling normal and I see a patch of sugar sand. Without the motor, I'd get off and walk. But just for the fun of it, I'll downshift to 1st gear (remember to use the green button while you shift), punch up the pedal assist and crank like a madman. Sand flies and I plow through. Really too much fun.
Hills? Like 45 degree climbs? Again, with 750watts and a quick pedal cadence, up up and away.
Some tips...
1. Get the C965 controller and use the instructions to select the 9 step PAS program. I've checked the power of PAS 9 against the throttle only and the throttle is only a very slight increase in power, say 10%. I've removed the throttle since, just 9 step PAS now. I don't want an electric scooter. Hey, I have a 650cc motorcycle, why do I want an electric scooter? The feeling of PAS is truly fun. Like an Iron Man suit that looks like a bicycle. You pedal and the bike amplifies your effort. Bionic biking is here to stay.
2. I decided on a 9 speed cassette as I can use a heavier chain and I think the wider physical gap between the gears makes gear selection more precise. Sure I can get more gears with a 10 or 11 speed cassette but the chain is thinner and the cassette gear gap is thinner. Chain angle also increases to the crank. So I like 9 speeds, it's working for me.
3. Gotta have the green disconnect button to allow crank turning without the motor pushing during gear changes. Get used to using it.
4. Keep the motor spinning. If you can't find a gear to pedal at a steady pace and mash the pedals, slowing down the motor, it will overheat. Electric motors want to spin quickly. Slow them down under load and you will hurt any electric motor. Downsize your crank gear, increase the size of the granny gear in the rear cassette to keep from overloading the motor if you are really pushing on the climbs.
5. Place the green button and the PAS controller for the C965 next to each other and the next to the left handlebar grip. Rotate them such that you can use your left thumb to depress the green motor kill button while you change gears with your right hand, or use your left thumb to add/detract PAS. Make it ergonomic so your left hand stays on the grip and brake levers.
6. Be sure to adjust the chain length so there is good tension when in high (small cassette gear) but one or two links left to avoid over tensioning in the lowest "granny" gear.
7. Buy from someone like Paul who is willing to email answers to questions.
8. Be safe, wear a helmet since you are now averaging 20 to 30 mph on your knobby tire mountain bike. Really your speed with at least double if not triple. Force = mass times acceleration. You'll hurt a lot more hitting a tree at 25 than you will at 10.
PopPopEd