Link to EU warehouse http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html
It will take some days to do this write up and i have a lot of mods i want to do, like voltmeter to get an accurate battery %, and i have an extra battery from my previous bikes/mopeds i want to add to this.
"Modded" bike so far
To begin with ill talk about assembly of the bike.
It comes very complete, all that needs doing is:
Battery holder needs tightening up
The front fender was a BIG hassle to get on with the light, had to get creative to get it to fit.
* 350W motor, pulls nicely but of course nothing vs my DIY 3000W friction drive bike
* Good Frame, nothing seems to thin or flimsy.
* It has a HORN
* Has a throttle and can be driven on throttle on Level 0
* 8.8Ah battery, tested to 7.5Ah, this might be where the low price comes in
* Built in Light, very cheaply made lamp that will blind on comers as it just throws without any "cutoff"
* PAS slow to react, but maybe it can be setup better in the MANY options in the computer
* Rear Fender is just crap, very little help from the elements
* Crank bearing seems "loose", will get it checked out
I did however have to mod the battery holder as it was loose and the battery would barely be held in place, this could cause the battery to come of in a big bump, so that is a -, any maybe im the only one that will have this problem, i will do some more on this with pictures.
So far im VERY impressed by the quality of this 730$ (shipped) bike, it does come with a "normal" seat so i changed it to my GEL-Seat very quickly
This is all i can see, and can't find anything about it
Also no info on this on the inet....
Display/Computer - Key-Disp KD21C:
Im really impressed by all the settings in this computer, have been used to just having a Motor & ESC with a few settings, but on this computer you can do all kind of things, and instead of me going through all things i will just post the manuel here instead.
Some Data so far:
* 7Km run (city) = battery at 38.6V, manuel says this battery needs 4 cycles to be "run in" and it should perform better, battery has a cutoff at 27.5V! (2.75V pr cell), looking at other 18650 they can actually go down to 2.5V, but i stil don't like pushing battery's to that level, also under 3.15V the capacity is VERY low, as can be seen in Post #3, from 3.26 to 3.16 only gained 0.1 Ah.
Another user on hobbyking got 16km in a hilly area till battery cut off, so that does not inspire confidence.
My run was pretty much on FULL power at 27km/h, pretty much no pedaling.
* A little battery update for me is changing from Li-Po to Li-ion and the much lower V pr cell where there is still power, normally i am use to the lowest voltage of 3.6V and this battery goes to 3.15V, so a longer run is required to get the full range city and "country", testing will go on when the weather is better, right now it is just raining all the time.
* 8.9km run (city) = Battery at 37.35V (65%), giving me a max range of about 25km, battery is now on 3 cycle
* 12.8km ("country") = Battery at 36.09V (45%), giving me a max range of about 24km (This run was with the bags and into the wind on a windy day)
* 12.8km ("country") = Battery at 37.03V (61%), giving me a max range of about 33km (This run was with the bags and with the wind on a windy day)
EDIT: corrected % left after many data points on last discharge, now i know my battery better
(more data needed)
* City Driving = 10.6 wh/km
* Country Driving = 10.1 wh/km
* Extra battery (1110Wh) (Still needs more data)
* City Driving = 13 wh/km (max)
* Country Driving = 12wh/km (max)
More to come.