Off the grid Chicken coop

wr200man

1 µW
Joined
Aug 6, 2019
Messages
2
I am involved in a neighborhood project to build a chicken coop. It is not connected to any power so it needs an alternative source that creates enough energy to power some lights and a couple of water heaters. I live in southern Iowa...so winters are pretty mild but we will usually see about 2 months of temps as low as zero degrees with daytime temps in the 20s and 30s.

What would be a good solar setup/battery/inverter to run such a system? Plug and play would be great because we are all idiots when it comes to this type of thing.

Thanks!
 
Before you can decide on a power source, you need to know how much power you need (Watts W), for how long (Watt-hours Wh).

If the coop is open-cage, it's going to need a LOT of power to make enough heat for those 20-30 degree daytime temperatures to keep them up to "room temperature", and way more heat for the nighttime temperatures that must be even colder.

If the coop is closed-up, like a shed or barn style, it'll take a lot less heat, but it'll need to be well-sealed against air leaks especially if there is any breeze, and if it's windy especially.


So, what equipment do you have right now that you use, for how many hours in the daytime?

Then, what equipment do you have right now that you use, for how many hours in the nighttime?

What extra equipment you do you have right now that you use for extra cold times?


Knowing hte power requirements for these will help us help you figure out how big an alternate power source you will need, and how many Wh of storage you need for the times the alternate source is not available, worst case.

For instance, if there is a stormy week that you don't get any sun, or not enough, the storage battery would have to be able to supply the entire power needs for the entire time until the sun is available again.

Additionally, the solar systme would need to be able to not only supply the entire power needs for the system while it is generating, under worst-case daylight conditions that the solar could still operate under, it would *also* have to be able to supply enough power at the same time to fully recharge the storage system, so that it can run the equipment at night, and be ready to run the system for however long the whole system needs to run worst case (like the stormy week instance).

If the "off grid" is an *optional* thing, where you *can* run power out to the coop in an emergency (like the stormy week or whatever), then you don't need as big a battery--just big enough to run whenever the panels can't supply the load and charge the battery at the same time.

How large a budget do you have?
 
you might try digging a hole, fill it full of compost with a waterpipe loop in it for hot water heating, if youre lower than the chicken coop you wont need a pump, just a valve to control temperature. heres a video to get you started if you want to look into it. tons of videos on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJYd7rOHJLY

even rocket stoves

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwCz8Ris79g
 
Go here to learn how I learned about chickens.
Chickens
wr200man said:
I am involved in a neighborhood project to build a chicken coop. It is not connected to any power so it needs an alternative source that creates enough energy to power some lights and a couple of water heaters. I live in southern Iowa...so winters are pretty mild but we will usually see about 2 months of temps as low as zero degrees with daytime temps in the 20s and 30s.

What would be a good solar setup/battery/inverter to run such a system? Plug and play would be great because we are all idiots when it comes to this type of thing.

Thanks!
People like to have some lights when its dark. Chickens need no lights

People like to have some heat in their houses in the winter. Chickens need no heat. [Might depend on what breed of chickens you start with?] I had Rhode Island Red. It gets cold in Rhode Island.

Need to keep the water from freezing. I used a 110V chicken water heater. You don't want to heat the water. Just keep the temperature a little above freezing. Think my chicken water heater has a thermostat so it only comes on when the water temperature gets close to 32°.

Cheapest way to get solar going is to use 12V DC. Problem is I am not seeing any commercially available 12V chicken water heaters.

Question for all ya electric experts. If one was to get some solar panels and 4 - 12V batteries wired in series would a 110V chicken water heater work on 48V DC? 72V DC? Try it? A freezer would be a good place to test this in the summer.

Setting up a solar system with a inverter to make 110V AC, big enough to run a bunch of heaters and lights could cost thousands. Important that this type of set up is done according to all codes and is safe.

Another way to prevent water from freezing is to keep it moving. Ever see a frozen fast moving river? 12V DC pumps are everywhere. Pump might use less electricity then a heater.

Accidents happen. Chickens WILL poop in the water. Important to change water frequently and clean all water equipment. Need a large supply of clean drinkable water.

Poop is another reason ya never want warm water. Nothing good happens with bacteria and warm water. Can ya smell it? I like my drinking water to be about 40°.

Also keep in mind that when you need solar electricity the most. Cloudy winter wither. Solar will have lower output. Keep that in mind when designing. Also might want to look for power lines. Call the utility company to see what is involved to get some electricity to your chicken farm.

My chickens were the most wonderful pets. I miss Gertrude, Helen, Maxine, and Sofie.
 
I gotta disagree with Marty- Chickens in the winter will need heat outside of a couple of breeds, or you'll wake up to frozen birds.

How frequently will you be out there, what will the coop be, and what kind of wildlife will you have to look out for? I live in your area, and coyotes are just a fact of life out here- bastards WILL get into anything.
 
My Rhode Island Red chickens lived happily outside in a plastic unheated coup for two Buffalo NY winters and did not seem to mind. In the summer chickens say cou, cou, cou. In the winter chickens say cold, cold, cold.
 
The chooks will likely survive a bit of frost and snow, and even wait for someone to break the ice on the water for them.
BUT they will stop laying eggs when it gets cold.
Also, if you have a few ....10+.. they can keep themselves warm in a closed coop.
 
amberwolf said:
Before you can decide on a power source, you need to know how much power you need (Watts W), for how long (Watt-hours Wh).

If the coop is open-cage, it's going to need a LOT of power to make enough heat for those 20-30 degree daytime temperatures to keep them up to "room temperature", and way more heat for the nighttime temperatures that must be even colder.

If the coop is closed-up, like a shed or barn style, it'll take a lot less heat, but it'll need to be well-sealed against air leaks especially if there is any breeze, and if it's windy especially.


So, what equipment do you have right now that you use, for how many hours in the daytime?

Then, what equipment do you have right now that you use, for how many hours in the nighttime?

What extra equipment you do you have right now that you use for extra cold times?


Knowing hte power requirements for these will help us help you figure out how big an alternate power source you will need, and how many Wh of storage you need for the times the alternate source is not available, worst case.

For instance, if there is a stormy week that you don't get any sun, or not enough, the storage battery would have to be able to supply the entire power needs for the entire time until the sun is available again.

Additionally, the solar systme would need to be able to not only supply the entire power needs for the system while it is generating, under worst-case daylight conditions that the solar could still operate under, it would *also* have to be able to supply enough power at the same time to fully recharge the storage system, so that it can run the equipment at night, and be ready to run the system for however long the whole system needs to run worst case (like the stormy week instance).

If the "off grid" is an *optional* thing, where you *can* run power out to the coop in an emergency (like the stormy week or whatever), then you don't need as big a battery--just big enough to run whenever the panels can't supply the load and charge the battery at the same time.

How large a budget do you have?

Sorry, that I took so long to reply....I was not getting notifications

So right now the whole idea of powering this coop is in the thinking phase....It is a neighborhood effort so I have to run ideas past other before making any solid decisions.

The coop is going to be well insulated and sturdy construction. Winter here is pretty mild....Most days with highs in the 30's, but cloudy days can last for weeks in Iowa in the wintertime.

It is probably 200 feet from the nearest building and I think that the running of power is probably the best idea. I'll run it past the neighbors and see what they think.

Thanks again for the input from everyone....I be back with pictures and updates.
 
wr200man said:
The coop is going to be well insulated and sturdy construction. Winter here is pretty mild....Most days with highs in the 30's, but cloudy days can last for weeks in Iowa in the wintertime.
Then depending on the actual power requirements, which you have not yet specified, solar is probably not a complete solution, without an alternate power source (gasoline generator, etc). It would probably require either too large an array to gather enough power under poor conditions, or too large a battery, or both, to be affordable/practical.

It is probably 200 feet from the nearest building and I think that the running of power is probably the best idea.
That's a reasonable distance, and depending on your power requirements, you can probably use 12awg underground buried cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Wire-Direct-Burial/s?rh=n%3A495310%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3605513011
with just 2 conductors (plus the ground wire). That way you don't have any overhead wiring to be dealt with or damaged by windstorms, icicles, etc., and don't have to run conduit, just directly bury the wire.
 
wr200man said:
The coop is going to be well insulated and sturdy construction. Winter here is pretty mild....Most days with highs in the 30's, but cloudy days can last for weeks in Iowa in the wintertime.
When designing a chicken coop think ventilation not insulation. People like to live in insulated buildings. Chickens will eat insulation. Need ventilation so things don't get moldy. My plastic chicken coop has some vents at the top with louvers that open and close. Open in summer. Close in winter. Coop has lots of small holes to let air in. Need air, not water leaks. Door on my coop was open all the time. Its a chicken coop not a prison.

Coop should be easy to clean. Plastic chicken coop has trays on the bottom that pull out for cleaning.

Also pay attention to design and height of the coop, nest boxes, and roosting rods. When I was looking at chicken coop plans on the internet, I became overwhelmed. That's why I bought the plastic chicken coop. Someone told me about a poorly designed coop where chickens were roosting in the nest boxes, then a dog ate them.
20170719.15.jpg
20170719.16.jpg
20170719.14.jpg
20170719.22.jpg
20170719.02.jpg
20170719.06.jpg
 
Back
Top