replacing controller

Joined
Jul 16, 2019
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I have an ebike with a broken controller, (troubleshooted by trying the controller from an identical bike, works fine)

I have not found an exact replacement for sale, I bought what I hoped would be an alternative, but it's not working either.
The connectors don't match, so I'm not sure on what cable should go where, I've tried going by color, but that didn't do the trick (the little red led at the pas sensor did light up when pedaling backwards) .


Hoping someone here might be able to nudge me in the right direction

original controller:
IMG-20210615-WA0003.jpg
IMG_20210616_173322.jpg

the replacement:
download3.jpg
IMG_20210616_173315.jpg
 
If you don't know how to solder, it looks like you are going to learn as there is no standard when it comes to Chinese connectors.
Although this would be a good excuse for many of us to start customizing (more Volts, better display, better connectors, etc), if you just want to keep it like it is, your best bet is to find the closest match and graft the connectors from the failed unit to the new one.
Even if the new wires don't all color match, we can guide you.
We can also give you tips for the soldering as well.
 
Neither controller has a a display, right? The original ebike had no throttle? It was pedal assist only?

You took the wires that went to the flat six pin plug on the original controller, and connected then to the 2x3 white plug on the Brainpower? I would have matched by color. The the yellow, blue green wires with the bullet connectors also match by color.

The intelligent idenfication leads are connected when you power up the controller. The controller looks at phase and sensor leads and figures out how to spin the motor. The wheel will either spin once or spin slowly.,If it spun in the right direction, you disconnect the intelligent id leads and power down. The controller will retain the motor wiring info. If it didn't spin ib the right direction, you have to keep powering up with the leads connected til it spins right. If you don't' do this intelligenbt ID startup, the motor isn;t programmed and won;t run.
 
the original controller does have a display.

I figured out what the connectors on the original controller connect to:
the flat 5 pin plug (red blue white green yellow) goes to the display
the 3 pin plug (red blue black) goes to the pas sensor
the 2 pin plug (black grey) goes to the brake sensor
the red, blue and yellow bullet plugs go to the motor
the red and black bullet plugs go to the battery
1uitlegE.jpg


With the battery connected

I connected the red, blue an yellow bullet connectors from the new controller(brainpower) to the bike, and the red and black to the battery.
When connecting the intelligent identification leads (green) the motor keeps spinning in the right direction, disconnect and connect again and it makes noise and spins backwards very slowly.


When I connect the 3 pin connector (black red blue, labeled assist sensor) from the new controller(brainpower) to the bike, the led on the sensor lights up, but the motor does not turn when pedaling.
when I switch the colors on the 3 pin connector (black red blue, labeled assist sensor) on the new controller(brainpower) to match the old controller the led on the sensor lights up but flashes while pedaling (as it should), but the motor still does not turn.

connecting the 2x3 white plug (5 cables, red yellow green black blue) to the corresponding colors on the bike controller does nothing

when connecting a throttle to the 3 pin connector (black red white, labeled speed steering handle) nothing happens , not even when connecting and disconnecting the intelligent identification leads.
 
Is there a way to run this setup without hallsensors or display? But with pedal assist?

Right now I've set up a switch on the electric lock (long wire to the handlebars), and with the intelligent identification plug connected, this switch gets my motor running. But this setup is far from ideal
 
OK. I looked at the first photo and thought the top connector was for the Hall sensors, but you corrected me and say it's the display, There is no Hall sensor connector, and you have a sensorless motor,

That means the Brainpower unit can''t work. EVen though it has learning, it needs Hall sensors to run the motor properly.. You have to buy a sensorless controller.
 
docw009 said:
That means the Brainpower unit can''t work. EVen though it has learning, it needs Hall sensors to run the motor properly.. You have to buy a sensorless controller.

And a compatible display, if you want a display. Displays are brand specific, or even model specific, so you if you need one, get a sensorless controller with compatible display, together.
 
Dominique DB said:
Is there a way to run this setup without hallsensors or display? But with pedal assist?

Right now I've set up a switch on the electric lock (long wire to the handlebars), and with the intelligent identification plug connected, this switch gets my motor running. But this setup is far from ideal

I buy all my controllers from PSW Power. They are prompt and I think their products are quite good.
Here is a controller that will do what you want;
https://www.pswpower.com/products/36v-48v-350w-brushless-dc-square-wave-controller-ebike-electric-bicycle-hub-motor-controller-with-right-output-31
It comes w/ a jumper installed in the display connector, but I would suggest you get the minimal LED analog display. It is unobtrusive and would allow you to turn on/turn off the system and to set different PAS max speeds. I have personally used this set-up and it worked fine.

https://www.pswpower.com/products/24v-or-36v-or-48v-electric-bicycle-kt-led-890-control-panel-display-electric-bike-parts-52
 
motomech said:
I buy all my controllers from PSW Power. They are prompt and I think their products are quite good.
Here is a controller that will do what you want;
https://www.pswpower.com/products/36v-48v-350w-brushless-dc-square-wave-controller-ebike-electric-bicycle-hub-motor-controller-with-right-output-31
It comes w/ a jumper installed in the display connector, but I would suggest you get the minimal LED analog display. It is unobtrusive and would allow you to turn on/turn off the system and to set different PAS max speeds. I have personally used this set-up and it worked fine.

https://www.pswpower.com/products/24v-or-36v-or-48v-electric-bicycle-kt-led-890-control-panel-display-electric-bike-parts-52

This looks to be exactly what I need, sadly a change in tax policy is making ordering straight from china or anywhere else not in the EU very expensive, just the handeling fee by my local postal service would be more than the cost of the goods and then taxes will be added to the total amount.
Do you maybe have any info for a seller with shipping from inside the European Union?
 
What is your location> Not Australia as your first post indicates? UK? Is the UK still in the EU prior to Brexit? Same thing on Ebay.UK, and also a UK vendor.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254201533813?hash=item3b2f979575:g:DLIAAOSwnI9cuB6d

https://torquetech.co.uk/collections/controllers-lcd-displays/products/ebike-sensorless-brushless-motor-controller-dc-24v-36v-250w-6-fet-15a-kt-square?variant=11815425540143
 
I'm in Belgium, and prior to brexit the UK was in the EU, but post brexit they are no longer part of the EU. So starting Juli 1st ordering from the UK comes with the same (ridiculously high) extra cost as ordering from china .
 
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