Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics

Hmm, must have mucked up google image sharing setting or something. Anyway It doesnt matter as I am going to have to return the wheels. They aren't compatible with disc brakes AT ALL. partly my mistake for not checking the listing thoroughly but the listing wasnt entirely clear either. Anyway what kind of mob builds mtb wheels with no disc brake options at all? wtf. So probably another month or more will go by before i get some front wheels! FFS! :evil:

My carbon seat posts turned up though and a few things to keep progressing, so that will give me something to do!
 
Hi there :
Just like to introduce myself. I am Gary from the Netherlands. Newbe at e-bike building Seems like this forum is the holy grail !!!! . I love all the information i can find here. Did already send a pm to Jay of Hyena Bikes... Cant wait to start building myself. :D
 
gary said:
Hi there :
Just like to introduce myself. I am Gary from the Netherlands. Newbe at e-bike building Seems like this forum is the holy grail !!!! . I love all the information i can find here. Did already send a pm to Jay of Hyena Bikes... Cant wait to start building myself. :D
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Welcome Gary, Hyena is a great place to start. What kind of build did you have in mind?
 
Thanks Rix,
I love the looks of the Beta. Single crown DNM, ATS speed drive, 24 or 26 wheels, adaptto midi (?) and a big powerful batterie and motor.... Although i live less than 2 km from the beach and dunes I also like to use this bike for the street a bit. I still need the look of a 'normal' MTB. :lol: I've seen some great looking bèta's here. I hope Jay will put a nice little package together but since i discovered this forum, i know I am in more then capable hands. I still have a lot of reading up to do but it seems Jay , you , a few others here realy know their stuff !! Thanks a lot for your welcoming me to this forum.

Gary
 
gary said:
Thanks Rix,
I love the looks of the Beta. Single crown DNM, ATS speed drive, 24 or 26 wheels, adaptto midi (?) and a big powerful batterie and motor.... Although i live less than 2 km from the beach and dunes I also like to use this bike for the street a bit. I still need the look of a 'normal' MTB. :lol: I've seen some great looking bèta's here. I hope Jay will put a nice little package together but since i discovered this forum, i know I am in more then capable hands. I still have a lot of reading up to do but it seems Jay , you , a few others here realy know their stuff !! Thanks a lot for your welcoming me to this forum.

Gary
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You bet Gary, looking forward to your future pics and vids.
 
Couple of FB FUTR Videos. Nice editing and high quality.

https://www.facebook.com/1484068655178945/videos/1888628394722967/

https://www.facebook.com/1765060787094961/videos/1926334187634286/
 
So guys I want to tell you my experience about hubsinks.

1)I have upgraded my motor to a mxus V3 4T with FF laced on a 24" rim. The torque is amazing but I'm not so happy with the top speed I think I had to go for a 3T motor. Only when I use OVS 7 I have good acceleration from 50 to 75 km/h otherwise the accelation after 50km/h is very weak.

2) I had to install two sets of hub sinks because the motor was overheating after 15-20 minutes of use at the boost mode 9000W peak power.
It took me two hours to install them and went for my first test drive.

Hub Sinks they Do work, they give me about 40-50% better cooling results. I was able to climb on a small mountain without to stop for a break and then to drive for about 50 km with reduced power at the most of the time.

The conclusion is: this is not a non stop riding cooling solution as advertised from many people. I forgot to mention that ambient temperature Today in Cyprus is about 33C degrees, this makes things worst.

When I stop the motor cools down 3-4 times faster so I haven't regretted hubsinks installation even that this is not the perfect cooling solution that we all waiting for.

This system works better when the motor is really hot
So I had to set the cut off temperature to 140C. Mxus's temp sensor is not accurate and it jumps from 125 to 140 instantly so if you set the cut off temp very low the hub sinks won't work well.

2017-08-02 14.50.20.jpg
 
icherouveim said:
The conclusion is: this is not a non stop riding cooling solution as advertised from many people. I forgot to mention that ambient temperature Today in Cyprus is about 33C degrees, this makes things worst.
When I stop the motor cools down 3-4 times faster so I haven't regretted hubsinks installation even that this is not the perfect cooling solution that we all waiting for.
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Hotter ambient temps certainly make it tougher to keep a motor cool.
All that said, re: a perfect cooling solution, you have to be realistic. You're using a motor rated at 3000w, running it in a large wheel and pushing triple the rated power into it for sustained periods of time. Of course it's going to get hot. Alot of us push big power, and we accept that things will get hot - it's the price you pay for having a lighter motor that you only sporadically punch high power into. If you constantly want to fly up steep hills at high power you need to select an appropriately sized motor for the task. If it takes 15-20 minutes to overheat at those power levels with relatively hot ambient temps, that's actually a great testament to how effective they are. To get any better cooling you'd have to significantly step up cost, weight and complexity to go with a watercooled system with pumps and a radiator.
 
You're using a motor rated at 3000w, running it in a large wheel and pushing triple the rated power into it for sustained periods of time. Of course it's going to get hot. Alot of us push big power, and we accept that things will get hot - it's the price you pay for having a lighter motor that you only sporadically punch high power into. If you constantly want to fly up steep hills at high power you need to select an appropriately sized motor for the task. If it takes 15-20 minutes to overheat at those power levels with relatively hot ambient temps, that's actually a great testament to how effective they are.
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I was going to post a similar comment, buy Jay covered it. MXUS 3k are work horse motors, but 9kw for extended runs is pushing things. Between the hub sinks and 9KW peaks, you probably still want to exercise a little mechanical sympathy on hill climbs. I like your style though, it just wouldn't be good ES etiquette to run only the rated current through the motor. :lol:
 
Good morning,

Yes there is FF inside the motor. Don't get me wrong this is was the worst case scenario, I wanted to test this cooling solution as hard as I could to find where the limits are, what it can really do.

I know hot summer weather with boost mode 9KW peak power are too much for this motor.

Normally I drive only at flat urban roads and sometimes with normal mode 5KW peak power. My next test will be with normal mode
and I think I will have "non stop cooling solution" for sure.

So congratulations to the Australian guy that had this idea to manufacture this nice kit for us.

My advice is to install two sets if you really want to see a difference except you run your motor in low power mode.

Ioannis
 
How did you all run the rear brake cable? On the outside or did you disassemble the brake and ran it through one of the cable holes in the frame?

 
Cricket_Swe said:
How did you all run the rear brake cable? On the outside or did you disassemble the brake and ran it through one of the cable holes in the frame?
]
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And this is why I like mechanical disk brakes. I know people think I am batcrap crazy, but its way easier than dealing with hydro's. I sold the Alpha yesterday to a guy that has historically owned Qulbix and other bikes, but not any Stealth or FUTR before yesterday. When I did the sale, I showed him how easy mechanicals were to adjust, and set up. Not sure if he is a convert, but he could appreciate the simplicity of it.
 
I just mount the cables on the outside of the frame and hold them in place with plastic screw down clips.
 

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The other thing you can do in the absence of those proper clips is use a loop of zip ties poking out from under one side cover. I did this on a build recently where I didnt want to have to bleed the brakes and if you put a one next to every screw then tighten them all down you can actually get the brake line to follow the exact contour of the side cover and it looks like it was meant for it!
I haven't got a picture but if you imagine a small loop around the brake line poking out from under the cover, then the fat end of the tie on the inside of the frame and pulled up tight

BTW I dont think I posted my latest build before, but here it is - a decked out alpha in gunmetal with carbon and red highlights. Big 35ah battery, 10kw power, hubsinks, schlumpf and alot of other customisation. I like the angular front moto mud guard, I think it fits in with the square edged look of the alpha and the owner was keen on the e-moto style look. The rear mudguard won't offer total shielding from sprays of mud but it will keep the shock clean and hopefully much of the controller (it's a different model of modified dirtbike front mudguard)
I'm using a a modified sabvoton with shaved down sides and new heavy duty mounting plates on each end. The controller is exactly the same width as the frame with the side covers so but using a thin Al plate this raised is up just enough to clear and still get the side covers on but also not overhang to risk rubbing your legs. I also hate the sort of messy wiring and connectors you generally have with these so naturally have made that tidy as well. It'll be a shame to see her get dirty, but that's what she was built for :)

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Thanks guys! I will first try the zip tie side cover thing. Sounds pretty smart. And Hyena's post reminded me about mudguards! Front isn't an issue but how do you mount one in the back? I've only ever mounted seatpost mudguards but you seem to have mounted yours on the rear shock mount? Could I have a close-up pic?
 
Hyena said:
The other thing you can do in the absence of those proper clips is use a loop of zip ties poking out from under one side cover. I did this on a build recently where I didnt want to have to bleed the brakes and if you put a one next to every screw then tighten them all down you can actually get the brake line to follow the exact contour of the side cover and it looks like it was meant for it!
I haven't got a picture but if you imagine a small loop around the brake line poking out from under the cover, then the fat end of the tie on the inside of the frame and pulled up tight

BTW I dont think I posted my latest build before, but here it is - a decked out alpha in gunmetal with carbon and red highlights. Big 35ah battery, 10kw power, hubsinks, schlumpf and alot of other customisation. I like the angular front moto mud guard, I think it fits in with the square edged look of the alpha and the owner was keen on the e-moto style look. The rear mudguard won't offer total shielding from sprays of mud but it will keep the shock clean and hopefully much of the controller (it's a different model of modified dirtbike front mudguard)
I'm using a a modified sabvoton with shaved down sides and new heavy duty mounting plates on each end. The controller is exactly the same width as the frame with the side covers so but using a thin Al plate this raised is up just enough to clear and still get the side covers on but also not overhang to risk rubbing your legs. I also hate the sort of messy wiring and connectors you generally have with these so naturally have made that tidy as well. It'll be a shame to see her get dirty, but that's what she was built for :)

[i/img]
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As usual Jay, very nice top notch build. Those mud guards to look good with the Alpha's square lines. A hurricane type seat would be the icing of the cake.
 
Congratulations Jay!

It seems its in your DNA, you are a very good ebike builder!
We all know how hard you have to work for this nice build.

I have a question, why in Australia we don't see very often adaptto controllers ?
Is it because they are out of stock or because you are very far away from Europe and
it's difficult to import them ? :?
 
icherouveim said:
Congratulations Jay!

It seems its in your DNA, you are a very good ebike builder!
We all know how hard you have to work for this nice build.

I have a question, why in Australia we don't see very often adaptto controllers ?
Is it because they are out of stock or because you are very far away from Europe and
it's difficult to import them ? :?
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Its because guys like Jay have been running Sabvotan's for years now with great success. Don't get me wrong, Adapttos are great. And when Adaptto can keep up with the supply and demand, we will probably see them used more. Like right now, can't get a Max E. And there is a wait for the Midi. That said, Allex probably has a line on them for hismself. :lol: :lol:
 
As long as it works for someone no problem!

But 2-3 years ago when I was checking controller's prices Sabvoton was pretty expensive especially when you buy it with the cycle analyst. Actually it was more than 550 euros with shipping and taxes.
 
icherouveim said:
Good morning,

Yes there is FF inside the motor. Don't get me wrong this is was the worst case scenario, I wanted to test this cooling solution as hard as I could to find where the limits are, what it can really do.

I know hot summer weather with boost mode 9KW peak power are too much for this motor.

Normally I drive only at flat urban roads and sometimes with normal mode 5KW peak power. My next test will be with normal mode
and I think I will have "non stop cooling solution" for sure.

So congratulations to the Australian guy that had this idea to manufacture this nice kit for us.

My advice is to install two sets if you really want to see a difference except you run your motor in low power mode.

Ioannis
Click to expand...

Hey Loannis
What type of terrain are you riding in? Im mostly offroad. I have a crystalyte in my Bomber with FF and hubsinks..1 set. For me I have found that the hubsinks do work but not as well as they did for you.I do ride 95% off road and alot of uphills. They do seem to help a bit but no where near what the FF did. My experience is the Hubsinks do not help when the motor gets heat soaked (long off road up hill low speed). They do seem to cool the motor down faster approx 1/3 faster with low power inputs. I notice they work best w lower power higher speed (pavement or downhill 2 track/fireroad) They do reduce the heat faster for sure. I would totally recommend them but I also want to find/test alt solutions… aka oil cooled.
 
1abv said:
icherouveim said:
Good morning,

Yes there is FF inside the motor. Don't get me wrong this is was the worst case scenario, I wanted to test this cooling solution as hard as I could to find where the limits are, what it can really do.

I know hot summer weather with boost mode 9KW peak power are too much for this motor.

Normally I drive only at flat urban roads and sometimes with normal mode 5KW peak power. My next test will be with normal mode
and I think I will have "non stop cooling solution" for sure.

So congratulations to the Australian guy that had this idea to manufacture this nice kit for us.

My advice is to install two sets if you really want to see a difference except you run your motor in low power mode.

Ioannis
Click to expand...


Hey Loannis
What type of terrain are you riding in? Im mostly offroad. I have a crystalyte in my Bomber with FF and hubsinks..1 set. For me I have found that the hubsinks do work but not as well as they did for you.I do ride 95% off road and alot of uphills. They do seem to help a bit but no where near what the FF did. My experience is the Hubsinks do not help when the motor gets heat soaked (long off road up hill low speed). They do seem to cool the motor down faster approx 1/3 faster with low power inputs. I notice they work best w lower power higher speed (pavement or downhill 2 track/fireroad) They do reduce the heat faster for sure. I would totally recommend them but I also want to find/test alt solutions… aka oil cooled.
Click to expand...

Hello,

Here in Cyprus the summer season it's getting really hot that's why I went straight away for two sets.

90% of the time I ride on flat urban roads, my peak power is 9KW and my top speed is set to 75km/h.

With these settings and the really hot summer (32-35C ambient temp) the motor hits 140C in about 30 minutes or more.

When I stop the motor cools down 3-4 times faster.

I think when the weather will be cooler 15-20C then hub sinks will make a huge difference.

As I said before if someone wants to see 40-50% better cooling results needs definitely 2 sets because only one is very slim.
 
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