Andrew's LMX 161 Chain-drive massacre Build Log

*first*

you are the only guy who can compare the lmx with your nyx.
tell me in deeply details what are you thinking
weight feeling,
power feeling.
handling feeling.

150a x 58v is above 8kw of Power. does it feel like 8kw+ ?
can you easy wheelie that thing?


btw: no package from nyx. if i ever get a chance to meet him i will piss on his shoes.

Merlin said:

*first*

you are the only guy who can compare the lmx with your nyx.
tell me in deeply details what are you thinking
weight feeling,
power feeling.
handling feeling.

150a x 58v is above 8kw of Power. does it feel like 8kw+ ?
can you easy wheelie that thing?


btw: no package from nyx. if i ever get a chance to meet him i will piss on his shoes.

Click to expand...

Ok, it's actually my second off-road ride in the woods, and i am not used to pedestrains giving me the evil eye in comparison to my silent nyx/adaptto/cromotor which largely goes un-noticed.

The acceleration upto top speed feels like 8kw for sure, and that's what this bike excels at. And yes, of course its a wheelie machine. I have dampened down the initial acceleration on the throttle to make it more controllable. I have to say if there was any grumble it would be lack of top speed once reaching nominal voltage. However, i think this bike has much more relation to trials bike in its design.

Comparisons: NYX/adaptto maxe/cromotor with mx wheels n tyres VS' LMX 161
There are many technical differences and a big list could be written here as they are completely different in design.
However here is the what i think about rider use and feel.

At present i prefer the feel of my nyx bike, maybe due to being used to it , it having much more expensive plush and subtle suspension and having strong brake lever regen braking. It just feels stiffer and more sophisticated. However, the nyx swing arm and rear suspension parts wear quickly and i think they have not been designed for a 20kg rear wheel. When the nyx and adaptto are both in perfect working order i feel spoilt with luxury. Aceleration and overall control of the bike is much smoother and sophisicated, again better suspension also plays it part.
The lmx is more aggressive and raw, a definite hooligan bike. Its a motorbike. The advantages of this is down to mx style riding and utilising legs and seat position, i am currently waiting ro get on a local proper mx track to try and improve these skills. More fun can be had being able to easily jump and get air due to 15kg weight difference and no rear anchor (currently 20ah pack). The lmx will be better for trick riding and agility handling in a tight spot. Its more nimble when going through rock gardens and on rough terrain. I think the lmx(although very early days) will be reliable and pretty much bomb proof,, when the nyx bike is very temporamental due to controller and frame parts. However, all the wiring harmess on the lmx are are exposed to wet weather.
The lmx is definitely the 'Fighter' And the Nyx is the full fat 'Bomber'.

Maybe i am getting old, but the lmx is a bucking bronco for sure. Infact it struck up its first victim, today i can hardly bend my right knee. My slide off in the video clip left me with a strained groin and swollen knee. Going down A and E today as i couldnt make it to work Lol! :lol:

If you have any more questions, post them up, there are many things to compare and contrast.

The evil eye from outsiders/pedestrians/other cyclists is what has kept me from already owning a mid drive bike. I to enjoy the complete and what started out as erie silence of a MaxE/QS 205. You can only hear my Shinko tires on the pavement.....and if not peddling the ticking of the free wheel. I watch these videos of the mid drives and wonder how I could get away with that. I have at least 20 miles of paved trails and 10+ parks literally right in my backyard that are busy everyday. If I ride 6 miles I can make it to the Katy Trail which is a couple hundred miles long and always busy. I want a mid drive but think I’d end up shooting myself in the foot......or twisting a knee anyway!

It’s awesome you have both.

Tom

litespeed said:

The evil eye from outsiders/pedestrians/other cyclists is what has kept me from already owning a mid drive bike. I to enjoy the complete and what started out as erie silence of a MaxE/QS 205. You can only hear my Shinko tires on the pavement.....and if not peddling the ticking of the free wheel. I watch these videos of the mid drives and wonder how I could get away with that. I have at least 20 miles of paved trails and 10+ parks literally right in my backyard that are busy everyday. If I ride 6 miles I can make it to the Katy Trail which is a couple hundred miles long and always busy. I want a mid drive but think I’d end up shooting myself in the foot......or twisting a knee anyway!

It’s awesome you have both.

Tom

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Silence is golden on an ebike in the woods for sure. I could probably get away riding a steam roller through the woods if it was as silent as my hubbie and adaptto.
Shame that at present there is no known sinewave compatible controller for the lmx motor. Its not the chain noise, its the motor noise thats the main obnoxious issue. My plan as said above is to get some proper mx training and track use as this bike is very different to a rear hub motor ebike with pedals and bike seat.

All cool!

Tom

nice, maybe try to turn off regen if is on , that drag should be that

maitilupas said:

nice, maybe try to turn off regen if is on , that drag should be that

Click to expand...

Thanks, i will try.

As i am using the smooth settings there are also parameters/sliders to change how quickly the motor slows after throttle release, so i will try these also

Throttle Taming...Kelly KBS controller: Smooth throttle settings, and what they do.
Here is the explanation for smooth setting.
We added smooth control in the user program.
It is used to set up the throttle map by customers.
The deflection point will divide the low speed and high speed on the throttle map.
We added the smooth control parameters in the user program.
When you enable the smooth functions,you will see five more parameters.
You can adjust the low speed acceleration and deceleration rate, and high speed acceleration and deceleration rate in the user program.
The inflection point is at the joint of low speed and high speed.
But this new software version needs the new firmware and hardware to support.

Usually you can set deflection point at 10.
Low Acc rate is 100
Low Dec rate is 127
High Acc rate is 100
High Dec rate is 127

The deflection is used to define the point for low speed and high speed.We assume the max inflection point is MAX.
For example, if we set up the inflection point at 10, we think the range below 10/MAX point is low speed area, the high speed range is above 10/MAX.
When you adjust the inflection value,you can determine which point is the joint for low speed and high speed range.
Different motor or motorcycle will affect the value of MAX.I can not let you know the accurate rate.

So we can accelerate and decelerate the motor at low speed range and high speed range.

Low Acc rate is Low speed range acceleration performance rate.If the value is high,that is to say,the controller will accelerate the motor very fast at low speed range.If the value is low,the acceleration is slow or gradual.
Low Dec rate is Low speed range deceleration performance rate.If the value is high,that is to say,the controller will decelerate the motor fast,the motor will stop quickly after throttle is released.

High Acc rate is High speed range acceleration rate.
High Dec rate is High speed range deceleration rate.
The explanation is the similar as above.They only just located on high speed range.
You can assume the value is just the response time.There is no unit for the value.Sorry for that.
Different motor,cars will provide different results under the same value.
You need to tune up the parameters according to every vehicle data in real testing.

Hello to you, I wanted to follow this pattern but unfortunately the result is not conclusive.
Can you help me using my schema?
I would be very grateful to you!

Regnardin said:

Hello to you, I wanted to follow this pattern but unfortunately the result is not conclusive.
Can you help me using my schema?
I would be very grateful to you!

Click to expand...

Have you tried measuring voltage across the various parts of your circuit. For instance, at the ignition switch and across the fuse?
Also, are you getting any power at the controller? If so... have you set up your controller by doing an "Auto Identify".

is that a circuit breaker and a shunt? in my shunt i use the negative not the positive and than connect the positive iginition ( 7 in case is kelly) also to the shunt

maitilupas said:

is that a circuit breaker and a shunt? in my shunt i use the negative not the positive and than connect the positive iginition ( 7 in case is kelly) also to the shunt

Click to expand...

Maybe it is? I thought it was a circuit breaker with a pre-charge resistor built in.

Hello, I start all from the beginning and following the schema of the manufacturer and not schema found on the internet.
Here is the new diagram, now the solenoid works by turning the key. But I still have no diode that lights up.
I'm frustrated because I managed to have a color diode but the solenoid did not work.

For measurements, I can not still do them, I ordered a new Multimeter.
Question for "Auto Identify", what is it?

In my configuration, I have main contactor equipped of precharge resistor in yellow and I have a diode in black color.

than your diagram seems good and your diode is in good direction i dont know what can it be , maybe better to measure using multimeter as Andrew told before.

Regnardin said:

For measurements, I can not still do them, I ordered a new Multimeter.
Question for "Auto Identify", what is it?

Click to expand...

kely controller can automatically configure your hals and phases , you dont need to break your head around that wiring
check picture:


BECARFULL DO NOT USE THROTTLE WHLE doing auto identify , IT WILL KILL THE KELLY

Ok thank you for your help.
I wait patiently my multimeter that I control all.
According to you, can I try to connect without the diode?

Thank you for this very useful info!
"BECARFULL DO NOT USE THROTTLE WHLE doing auto identify , IT WILL KILL THE KELLY"

yes you can , the diode reason is to block voltage going back to the battery , I use a bms and they already protect to that, I also use xt90 antispark connector, with that i dont need pre charge resistor

Hello everyone, after several days not to say week.
I lost my temper and dismounted the controller.
During disassembly, I noticed a small RED wire that is connected to the postive and get out of the controller;
I am curious to know what it corresponds because it is called No. 30 but it is noted nowhere.
Really strange ...

(Sorry for my bad english!)

i also dont know . maybe you can ask Fany by email with that picture:

sales@kelly-controls.com

I have already contacted the support but no news! :?

Regnardin said:

I have already contacted the support but no news! :?

Click to expand...

It reminds me of the ignition wire you get on Lyen/infineon controllers.

I got my LMX 161 running today and have an issue with the rear tyre. I have the 19” moto rim and have fitted 2 different tyres but they both will not seat properly, they both balloon at a random point?
I tried my CST Sur-Ron tyre and Dunlop MX52 both did same thing, had anyone else had this issue?
I have a shinko 241 2.75” to try next...

If your rim is good than is an easy fix.
Check whatsthe max PSI the tire can handle its written at the sides of the tires and trow all that amount of psi . Let the tire sit good you can also use some soap around the edges of the tire where it sits in the rim. Do this afew times should fix the issue

unfortunately its not about soap or pressure.
if this is the same rim ive got with my lmx its the tube/rim combination that makes swithcing tires a annoying job.

normaly it should "balloon" at the valve.

can you make pics?

i will replace those rims anyway they are pretty weak, had one and had to trash it

Yea... Too bad. Not 10 dollar worth those rims. I'll replaced them also. Not that nice. Front wheel is nice quality. Rear rim worst China crap.