E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Rix
100 TW
StudRock said:
Alright! When the rain quits and you do get up an running, I would like to know what your initial impressions are.
StudRock
100 W
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Rix said:
Does it count that I went back and forth in the garage about 5 DOZEN times today like a 7 year old... :lol: - I'm cleaning it up, doing a little rewiring and just about to swap over the Left/Right Brake levers. I'm so used to the motorcycle, that's all I would need... reach down and get a full hand of front brake...
djjoonie
10 W
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- Jun 9, 2017
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having the rear brake on the left is awsome for wheelieStudRock said:Does it count that I went back and forth in the garage about 5 DOZEN times today like a 7 year old... :lol: - I'm cleaning it up, doing a little rewiring and just about to swap over the Left/Right Brake levers. I'm so used to the motorcycle, that's all I would need... reach down and get a full hand of front brake...
:lol: :lol: throttle on the right, quick fix on the left 
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Allex said:
Humm. I didn't know this. I just checked, and there's even ports on both sides of the master cylinder. That's handy isn't it?
StudRock
100 W
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1abv said:
Glad you were able to find the culprit. its a good feeling when you find the problem after its been driving you nuts for so long.
Hey... I have a real Newb question... and it may be obvious to some of you that have been working on ebikes for a while, but I can see this being viewed in many ways. On the DC1, Battery Cycles... My question is, what constitutes a 'Cycle" number...? is it the amount of times the charger has been plugged in, is it the amount of times the battery has been fully charged to 100%...or above a certain percentage...or the # of times the battery has dropped below a certain percentage and then recharged to 100%....?
I'm still getting to know some of the setting in the DC1 but I figured I'd ask one of the obvious ones...
BTW... I'm LOVIN this bike...!!
Rix
100 TW
StudRock said:Ummm... it took longer for me to write the question to ask you guys about it than it did for me to swap the levers out. Literally, unscrew to bolts (per lever) and move to the proper side and re-tighten. Done..!
Thanks Allen...!
So when you are charging the battery, once it passes 56 volts or so Fighter (or 89 volts for the Bomber) and new battery pack), the system will reset to 100% even if you don't charge it until the High Voltage cut off stops charging. That will register as one charge discharge cycle.
Allex
100 MW
But in reality 1 cycle is when you go from 100% to 0 and then back to 100
And if you go from 100 to 50 then back to 100 thats half a cycle
Or if you go from 70 to 20 and back to 70 it is half a cycle
And if you go from 100 to 50 then back to 100 thats half a cycle
Or if you go from 70 to 20 and back to 70 it is half a cycle
Rix
100 TW
Allex said:
True that,the DC1 wont see it that way though.
StudRock
100 W
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ahhh... okay, that makes sense... is there any advantage or disadvantage of running the battery close to 0%...? - I've been calling it a day when the battery gets around 20% and I'm letting it charge for 3 hours back to 100%. Conversely, is there any positive or negative affects with charging the battery if its NOT needed...? for example, if the battery is already charge at 100% and I'm not riding the bike for a few days or a week of not being used.
Thanks guys... I enjoy the weekend... 8)
Thanks guys... I enjoy the weekend... 8)
Rix
100 TW
StudRock said:
you can double your battery's life by charging up to 90% and not discharging below 15%. If you do this, charge up to 100% once every 10 cycles or so. Also don't store the bike with a fully charge battery. Don't ever go down to 0%, thats the quickest way to ruin a battery. The BMS will not let this happen, however, I would avoid doing it.
djjoonie
10 W
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- Jun 9, 2017
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StudRock said:
do not let it sit at 100% for more than a day, discharge it ie: ride it untill 80% or below and you can leave it for couple of days or week.
I also remember the manual for the bomber said that you dont need to charge when the battery is above 30% and just charge b4 ride.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Dallas cops are great about electric bicycles. I just got home from my 16 mile Kung Fu school commute. It's really only 13 miles each way, but I know 500 different ways to get there, and I like to drag it out as long as possible. On the way home I was waiting at a light as a Dallas patrol car drives by. I shadowed him for a couple of miles in traffic, but finally pulled up next to him at a light. He rolls down the passenger window, and yells over at me, " hey, how fast does that thing go?" LOL I had to bite my tongue, and think about how to answer that question. I told him it comes limited to 20 mph to make it legal, but when it's not on the limiter it's a lot faster. He said that's a really cool bike, what is it? I told him a, Stealth Electric bicycle, made in Australia, and this is the best electric bike in the world. He and his partner were shaking their heads in agreement as the light turned green, and he blasted off down the street leaving me to my typical fun ride home just like a 1000 times before.
StudRock
100 W
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- Jul 11, 2018
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Rix said:
Thanks Rix...Djjoonie... I was NOT aware of this. I went out tonight an got the battery down to 89%. I was aware about going down to 0%, but not about the max charging level to 90%. Ummmmm... maybe another newb question. Currently I have the bike charging on a 3 hour timer setting and I unplug the bike from the timer the following day. Is there a setting in the DC1 that only allows charging up to 90%...? Otherwise, I'm not sure how I can manage "consistent" charges to 90% with a timer, unless I dial the 3 hours back to an hour or so...?
On a side note...Do I qualify as a member of the Stealth family now that I got my first FLAT..! Yup, rear tire and a roofing nail dead in the middle of it. The tube had some Slime but not enough when I pulled the nail out. So...I put the bike up on my hydraulic motorcycle jack, strapped it down and learned on the fly how to remove the rear wheel. It was simple enough... the B@#$# was taking that freakin tire off. I didn't know if it was okay to use my motorcycle tire irons with that rim, so I stuck with the plastic MTB ones. Yeah, that was a lot of fun... :x :x Luckily for me, I noticed the nail while it was in the garage. I dont know how you guys do it out in the field with the tire on the bike. - Anyway, I expanded my vocabulary quite a bit and finally got it done and I'm back in business...!
Emmett
10 kW
If you know the cell type (max volts per cell), nbr cells in series and the charged volts for the pack, then you can calculate to check if the 100% volts on the display is really 100% for the cells.StudRock said:
I doubt the DC-1 can terminate the charging process. The charger is directly connected to the battery, so only it can decide when its output voltage is at maximum. If you open the charger there might/should be a little pot you can adjust.
Rix
100 TW
StudRock said:Stealth family now that I got my first FLAT..! Yup, rear tire and a roofing nail dead in the middle of it. The tube had some Slime but not enough when I pulled the nail out. So...I put the bike up on my hydraulic motorcycle jack, strapped it down and learned on the fly how to remove the rear wheel. It was simple enough... the B@#$# was taking that freakin tire off. I didn't know if it was okay to use my motorcycle tire irons with that rim, so I stuck with the plastic MTB ones. Yeah, that was a lot of fun... :x :x Luckily for me, I noticed the nail while it was in the garage. I dont know how you guys do it out in the field with the tire on the bike. - Anyway, I expanded my vocabulary quite a bit and finally got it done and I'm back in business...!
This is why I run a motorcycle rim tire combo on the rear. It wont stop a roofing nail but everything else short of that. I hate changing tubes and tires on the trail, I also run Mr Tuffy tire liners to help resist flats.
Rix
100 TW
It doesn't Emmett. The DC1 will count a charge cycle when ever a battery gets below the programmed volt parameter and then charged back over it. My Bomber doesn't have a DC1 but my Fighter and P7 did/do. When my P7 discharges below 51 volts, and then I charge it up past 52, the DC1 registers a cycle, its very conservative with the settings and I understand why Stealth programs it that way. Its set up for the customer that doesn't know $h!t about $h!t.
Allex
100 MW
You can open up the charger and adjust the voltage with a trimpot to what ever you like.
If you dont mess around you buy this:
http://www.ebikes.ca/cycle-satiator-72v-5a.html
To understand batteries - a must read:
https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_store_batteries
If you dont mess around you buy this:
http://www.ebikes.ca/cycle-satiator-72v-5a.html
To understand batteries - a must read:
https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_store_batteries
StudRock said:On a side note...Do I qualify as a member of the Stealth family now that I got my first FLAT..! Yup, rear tire and a roofing nail dead in the middle of it. The tube had some Slime but not enough when I pulled the nail out. So...I put the bike up on my hydraulic motorcycle jack, strapped it down and learned on the fly how to remove the rear wheel. It was simple enough... the B@#$# was taking that freakin tire off. I didn't know if it was okay to use my motorcycle tire irons with that rim, so I stuck with the plastic MTB ones. Yeah, that was a lot of fun... :x :x Luckily for me, I noticed the nail while it was in the garage. I dont know how you guys do it out in the field with the tire on the bike. - Anyway, I expanded my vocabulary quite a bit and finally got it done and I'm back in business...!
Hey man,
I swapped to a moto rear as well. When I first had the bike I too got a flat out in the wild wound up walking it home, thankfully I was not that far. I use a stock moto tube and tire combo w moto rim laced to the motor (you have already prob read about many people this) Depending on your weight (I weight 165) you can get away with just this.... others have used strips, slime, and tubless. I run 14psi and have never had a puncture. you may be able to just add more pressure and be fine as well. When I first installed the moto rear I could feel the weight difference but that lasted less than a week at most... I would never go back to a MTB rear because as you have expierenced and expanded your vocab in the process... changing a hub mounted tire sux tuckass
I still run the original style MTB rear rim on my Fighter....although everything else is different. :lol:
When I first got my bike I did get a bunch of punctures and it sucked so bad. Since then I've found two main things make the MTB rim/tyre combo can actually work.
1) Increase the pressure. Yes this is a bit of a compromise, but it does help prevent pinch flats. I typically run 30-35PSI in my Duro tyres.
2) Use a tyre liner. I use an old tube with the valve stem cut out and cut all around the inside. Lay this in the inside of the tyre with plenty of talcum powder.
I also use plenty of talcum powder when installing the tube to prevent pinch flats. Since doing all this I've only got a handful of punctures in the 4+ years I've been doing it and most of those were slow leaks.
I typically carry about 4-6 Co2 canisters in my tool bag and when leaks are not catastrophic I just dump a Co2 into the tyre, ride as far/fast as I can till it gets dangerously low, then repeat until I get home. This approach has saved my having to change a tube a number of times.
The other thing I do is carry a Gaadi double ended tube.
They do sell a 24x2.25 inch version that does fit ok in the standard Bomber/Fighter wheels.
I've used these successfully at least a few times.
Alternatively, you could just go with a moto rim/tyre combo, but for me the extra weight is a big factor.
Cheers
When I first got my bike I did get a bunch of punctures and it sucked so bad. Since then I've found two main things make the MTB rim/tyre combo can actually work.
1) Increase the pressure. Yes this is a bit of a compromise, but it does help prevent pinch flats. I typically run 30-35PSI in my Duro tyres.
2) Use a tyre liner. I use an old tube with the valve stem cut out and cut all around the inside. Lay this in the inside of the tyre with plenty of talcum powder.
I also use plenty of talcum powder when installing the tube to prevent pinch flats. Since doing all this I've only got a handful of punctures in the 4+ years I've been doing it and most of those were slow leaks.
I typically carry about 4-6 Co2 canisters in my tool bag and when leaks are not catastrophic I just dump a Co2 into the tyre, ride as far/fast as I can till it gets dangerously low, then repeat until I get home. This approach has saved my having to change a tube a number of times.
The other thing I do is carry a Gaadi double ended tube.
They do sell a 24x2.25 inch version that does fit ok in the standard Bomber/Fighter wheels.
I've used these successfully at least a few times.
Alternatively, you could just go with a moto rim/tyre combo, but for me the extra weight is a big factor.
Cheers
Emmett
10 kW
As recommended by Rix, I run a Shinko SR241 at about 10 PSI on a narrow 19" moto rim. With Tubliss. It just clears the chain on my Fighter. It's awesome.
Initially I was concerned about the additional unsprung weight and negative handling. But it has a huge benefit to handling because the fat spongey tyre becomes a very active suspension component. The rear is bucked around much less with this setup.
When I do smash into hard edges at speed the Tubliss high pressure liner takes the hit easily. I ride over 6 to 12" high square edge sandstone rocks routinely at 20 to 40 km/h and it's no problem. Zero punctures so far after 100+ ride hours.
Obviously it has more than double the rear grip. The bonus function is I think money saved in the long term, because the SR241 tyre lasts perhaps 10x one Razorback tyre.
Initially I was concerned about the additional unsprung weight and negative handling. But it has a huge benefit to handling because the fat spongey tyre becomes a very active suspension component. The rear is bucked around much less with this setup.
When I do smash into hard edges at speed the Tubliss high pressure liner takes the hit easily. I ride over 6 to 12" high square edge sandstone rocks routinely at 20 to 40 km/h and it's no problem. Zero punctures so far after 100+ ride hours.
Obviously it has more than double the rear grip. The bonus function is I think money saved in the long term, because the SR241 tyre lasts perhaps 10x one Razorback tyre.
