Fat Tire Hub Motor 150 mm dropouts

hdserv said:

IMG_5642.JPGIMG_5810.JPGIMG_5973.JPGIMG_5976.JPG

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That is a sweet build, is that a frame you built yourself or a ruff cycles frame? Do you know what the rear dropout spacing is on your frame? I'm looking for a cruiser frame like this for 150mm dropout spacing for a 3000w hub motor I already own and 72v battery I built.

Looking forward to seeing the end product of your build so far its looking dope!

Thanks

Isnt the rear drop out for that ruff cycles frame only 135mm how did you get the 8000w motorcycle hub and rim on it, that hub motor has 150mm droup out width. I seen the picture of it on the amazon reviews 8000w ebike concversion kit Willyamp. Or is the rear drop out of that frame 150mm? I want to use a ruff cycles frame just like yours vut on the website it says 135mm drop out. So no way I can fit the 150mm drop out hub motor like you have on yours.

Does anyone know the rear drop out inside width on the ruff cycles porucho frame? I am wondering if it will fit a hub with a 150mm drop out spacing?

http://store.ruff-cycles.com/ruff-cycles-frame-porucho.html

Additional Information
Rims
24", 26", 28" with 65, 80, 100mm Width
Bottom bracket
US / BMX
Head Tube
1 1/8"
Seatpost
31,8 mm
Rake Angle
69°
Disc mounts
Optional
Coaster Brakes Holder
Yes
Color
Unpainted / Raw
Head Tube Length
125 mm
Seattube to Headtube
∼760 mm
Seattube to Bottom Bracket
∼665 mm
Width between Chain stays
135 mm
Chain Links
∼162
Chain Length
∼2000 mm
Material
Steel
Designer
Sebastian Anger
Warranty
Lifetime
Weight
6,7 kg

Click to expand...

http://store.ruff-cycles.com/ruff-cycles-frame-porucho.html

Additional Information
Rims
24", 26", 28" with 65, 80, 100mm Width
Bottom bracket
US / BMX
Head Tube
1 1/8"
Seatpost
31,8 mm
Rake Angle
69°
Disc mounts
Optional
Coaster Brakes Holder
Yes
Color
Unpainted / Raw
Head Tube Length
125 mm
Seattube to Headtube
∼760 mm
Seattube to Bottom Bracket
∼665 mm
Width between Chain stays
135 mm
Chain Links
∼162
Chain Length
∼2000 mm
Material
Steel
Designer
Sebastian Anger
Warranty
Lifetime
Weight
6,7 kg

Click to expand...

FarmerFpv said:

Does anyone know what the rear drop out spacing is on this ruff cycles porucho frame?

Click to expand...

http://store.ruff-cycles.com/ruff-cycles-frame-porucho.html

Additional Information
Rims
24", 26", 28" with 65, 80, 100mm Width
Bottom bracket
US / BMX
Head Tube
1 1/8"
Seatpost
31,8 mm
Rake Angle
69°
Disc mounts
Optional
Coaster Brakes Holder
Yes
Color
Unpainted / Raw
Head Tube Length
125 mm
Seattube to Headtube
∼760 mm
Seattube to Bottom Bracket
∼665 mm
Width between Chain stays
135 mm
Chain Links
∼162
Chain Length
∼2000 mm
Material
Steel
Designer
Sebastian Anger
Warranty
Lifetime
Weight
6,7 kg

Click to expand...

I'm looking for a fat tire hub motor in the 5000w range that will fit 150mm dropouts. It seems all the fat tire hub motor kits use 175mm dropouts. I can only find 26-inch mountain bike kits with that kind of power. even the 3000w kits use 175mm dropouts. Is it possible to lace a hub that has 150mm dropouts with a 26-inch 80mm rim? I have no clue about lacing hubs and wheels but i will pay someone to do it if it's possible to do.

There are hub motors with 36 spoke holes and rims with 36 spoke holes can they be laced together? Like I said I'm clueless about all this stuff. I can't find answers from the companies that make them.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'm new to fat tire and hub motors I've only had cyclone 3000w mid-drive units, I'm looking for a hub motor around 5000w range for a 26x4 fat tire, 26inch x 80mm rims. Even if i have to lace the wheel to the hub or pay someone to do it is there any hubs in that power range with 150mm dropouts? I have only been able to find 175mm drop out fat bike hub motor kits. When I contact the companies they never give me an answer. I would rather not have to lace one up but If I have to i will learn or pay to get it done. Just not sure what hubs can go with what hoops? If a hub motor has 36 spoke holes does that mean you can use a fat rim with 36 spoke holes or does it not work that way? I'm completely lost.

My beach cruiser had 135mm dropouts but I widened it to 150mm it's as wide as i can go.

happy new years

Thanks in advance

Rob

Thank you, I was wrong it looks like all the fat tire hub motor kits are 175mm dropouts, I can't find anything over 3000w with 150mm dropouts with a fat tire 26 rims that I can use 3inch or 4inch wide tires unless I'm looking in the wrong places. It's all very confusing i guess that's why on all my fat tire builds I have used the cyclone 3000w mid-drive unit which is not that satisfying for getting anywhere quickly on our private land. mostly flat with small rolling hills. I really want to build a 5000+ watt fat tire 3, 3.5 or 4.0 inch on a ruff cycle poruchu or basman frame at 72v I'm great working with electronics fibreglass and carbon also making custom plugs but when it comes to these hub motors and rims I'm completely lost. The people that have done the builds don't respond or don't have enough information on their builds.

I would love to stay away from a mid-drive this time if anyone has any info or has built one I'd pay for the information if i have too.

Thanks again.

Wide rims do lace as narrow ones on motors. Matching hole count of course, drill nipple holes at angle to match spokes angle, use rim and flange washers ideally with powerful motors, single cross pattern. Use quality SS spokes and long nipples. Pretty straightforward to do yourself, but maybe you should ask the local bike shop to do the finish trueing if it is your first.

FarmerFpv said:

Does anyone know the rear drop out inside width on the ruff cycles porucho frame? I am wondering if it will fit a hub with a 150mm drop out spacing?

Click to expand...

frames are steel - you can just pull the dropouts apart to widen.

Willow said:

FarmerFpv said:

Does anyone know the rear drop out inside width on the ruff cycles porucho frame? I am wondering if it will fit a hub with a 150mm drop out spacing?

Click to expand...

frames are steel - you can just pull the dropouts apart to widen.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Unfortunately, I was wrong about the hub motor dropout spacing, ever hub motor I have found over 1500w has a 170/175mm drop out spacing, won't be able to spread the dropouts that wide without issues. Looks like I'm going to have to find some other brand of fat tire beach cruiser for my build. Unless it's possible to Lace a 26 x 80mm or 100mm wide wheel on a QS 205 50h hub motor? Sure wish those Ruff Cycles frames had wider dropouts. Guess they want you to buy their E-bikes.

FarmerFpv said:

Thanks, Unfortunately, I was wrong about the hub motor dropout spacing, ever hub motor I have found over 1500w has a 170/175mm drop out spacing, won't be able to spread the dropouts that wide without issues.

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What issues? How do you think frames are made? They bend the tubes in shape. So if it's a steel frame then you can bend out the dropouts a little wider then necessary with a scissor or hydraulic (car) jack. Then bend the dropout plates a little inwards to get them parallel again. Widening each side 20mm to go from the 135mm to 175mm is not a problem for a normal steel frame.

SlowCo said:

FarmerFpv said:

Thanks, Unfortunately, I was wrong about the hub motor dropout spacing, ever hub motor I have found over 1500w has a 170/175mm drop out spacing, won't be able to spread the dropouts that wide without issues.

Click to expand...

What issues? How do you think frames are made? They bend the tubes in shape. So if it's a steel frame then you can bend out the dropouts a little wider then necessary with a scissor or hydraulic (car) jack. Then bend the dropout plates a little inwards to get them parallel again. Widening each side 20mm to go from the 135mm to 175mm is not a problem for a normal steel frame.

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I know how they are made, I was just afraid it will tweak the frame because one side will bend farther over than the other? I ended up buying a QS 205 50H that has 150 mm dropout and Laced it with an 80mm wide fat wheel. I was also afraid the chain line would be too far off to line it up. IDK I guess I'm just being over cautious because it's not cheap. Do you happen to know what a US/BMX bottom bracket is? When I google it all it says is USA or American bottom bracket, I'm guessing that's what ruff cycles mean with US/BMX?

I'm trying to find an inexpensive 3 piece crank and bottom bracket but "US/BMX" confuses me as I'm clueless about all this stuff.


Thanks.

I did join some ruff cycle build forums but even their information is incomplete and there haven't been responses in a long time.

you can look on sheldon brown's bicycle site fro more info, but most likely that kind of bb is a one-piece-crank style, sometiems called ashtabula. you can buy conversion kits to put a 3 piece crank in there instead.

a simple google search on the exact phrase you used in your own post finds a lot of info including sites with parts
https://www.google.com/search?q=US%2FBMX+bottom+bracket

if what you see in that search dosn't match what you have then you have to ask the frame manufacturer for exact specifications and then match those to what's available out there at bike shops.

not a drama. it can be done by hand very easy. I've spread them to 180mm without an issue.

Lay the frame on it's side on the ground. Stand on the swingarm side on the ground - near to the main frame. Pull the other side of the swingarm at the dropout end till it shifts a little., Flip it over and do the other side. Check the measurement and go again if needed. A little wider than required is fine and makes it easy to install motor. if it's not 100% equal it doesn't matter... just got to get the wheel aligned when it's in place. And they can be pushed back if needed. The steel is very forgiving.

a really fat tyre may interfere with the chain-line. I've run a 3inch motorcycle tyre on the rear without issue.

Get the bottom bracket adapter (sold by Ruff or Classic Cycles), which just pushes into the bottom bracket tube and allows you to run a modern cassette and a standard MTB crank

Willow said:

some photos of one I'm doing now. Swingarms are widened to 160mm.

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Thanks, bro, you have been a great deal of help and patient with me I really appreciate that. I purchased the Park Tool Frame and Fork End Alignment Gauge Set guess won't hurt to have it since i do plan on building many more bikes.


I'm now just waiting for my parts, meanwhile, I'm going to make a plug for my battery encloser that will go in the frame. I want my battery enclosure not to cover the nice shape of the frame but to follow the contours. Most likely will be split mould so that the tubes can recess just a tiny bit where the seam will be.

Or I might just use my tig welder I bought 3 years ago never used it and practice welding some aluminium. I did custom car stereo SQ and DB drag custom builds for years and I don't miss working with fibreglass lol

That's probably the only thing i will be good at with this build the rest will be new territory for me especially the battery I have only built smaller 18650 packs, 6s4p for my long-range FPV planes and drones. The electronics I bought was a complete kit with waterproof connectors plug and play that should not be hard.

I wonder if I should purchase my first battery and just slowly take my time building my second battery? What would be a good place to buy a 72v 25ah pack?

BTW I have seen your builds, they are very professional and inspiring hope I can get to that level one day.

Rob

toro1978 said:

Very cool, but what are the pedals for, why not eliminate them? I assume you are going "throttle only"? Because if you keep pedal-assist what would you do about the chain line? With that hub width, you might need a fat bike BB in order to have a straight chain line.
And with "throttle only" you can skip the chain and instead of pedals have pegs or floorboards This would be a sick ride.
I'd do that if the throttle was not outlawed here in Germany. I mean I don't mind pedalling, but it is limiting when it comes to design decisions.

Edit: Oh, you want to have a cassette in the rear? I get it now. Still, wouldn't be tricky with the chain line?

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I bought a wider spindle for the bottom bracket that's used for motorized bikes and an offset single speed rear sprocket, my chain line with the fat wheels will be perfectly fine. found out there are many ways to adjust the chain line. That's one thing I did my research on as they do it all the time on the IC engine motorized bike conversions.

I purchased a book on building batteries from the ebikeschool.com guy that makes lots of youtube videos. The reviews do say it's a great book for beginners, is there any e-bike books y'all would suggest? I do enjoy reading if you know of any books that would be valuable for a beginner e-bike builder leave me a link.

Thanks

Rob