Stromer ST1 - tear out all Stromer and make the bike great again !

Hi !

My name is Stig living in Norway fixing and building some e-bike projects as a hobby.
For about a year ago i came across a TDCM motor for sale, and with this motor i got a Stromer ST1 on the deal.

And i struggled findin info and getting help anywhere as there are no Stromer dealer og worksshop in Norway.

As i have bought and sold a few bikes i used this one for some parts and did’nt know quite how i would go about rebuilding my first Stromer.

But no the time has come to do the frame right and build this bike back up not restrictet by Stromer



This one i had for a few months and the quality of the build it selfe impresses



With the TDCM P48 500w hub motor and TMM sensor it is a smooth and nice ride on a daily base.

As i now have the bike in parts, the motor has to be laced of on one side and a bit of hazzel to take apart.



And it reveals the Stromer controller inside, with the origanl conetctors





After removing the controller its time to rewireing the hall sensors, phase wires and temp



Are planing to use parts i have and not go over the top in anyway. I started with fiting a battery bag, lined with a alu list and screwd to the frame.

Then mecsure what kind of battery it will fit





As i had a nearley new ST1X battery with bms failure and a new ST1 battery i got for fixing one. They contain 78 and 50 top of the lind Sanyo 3500mah cells





With 128cells and the space i will go for a 14s9s battry, 52v31,5ah it should run for miles

The space inside the frame i will use for all other electronic, planing to use a Crystalyte controller that can give 40A



And conecting this to a Cycle Analyst v3



As there was some issues with the frame, like the key lock for the battery door was broken. Charging gate had some issues and after trying to use the options the frame has. I found after removing the push button to open battery door, that it fit the key lock for on/of that came eith the bag

.

And using a normal xlr 3 pin conector for charging

On the other side i want a sipmle on/off for the cobtroller.



Will lock the battery door with a bolt from under, make use of one thats allready there.



Now i got a frame with a tmm sensor buildt in i the backdrop of the bike

The values it should read i found online



As main light i go for this lamp, sold on Grin and can connect directly to the CA.

A new day, and i have installed a new headset and got det fork back on. The ST1 came with a carbon fork, it was a suprice to me :)

Starting to line up parts that are going on this build, and as i’m 192cm tall i need a higer seat post.
BBB skyscraper 31,6x400mm with a Fizik Tundra M3 seat



My favorit handle bar i going on this bike to, Surly Sunrise 820mm. Using a Supernova multimount stem and a B&m cyclestar mirror.



Now the part thats fun, maybe not always but setting the bike back togethar and see if the plan work

To tighten the key lock i simply drilled a hole and treaded it with M4, the charger port had to modify a bit but screwd in place.

In the place where the original key lock was placed, a whaser fit perfect, just using a file ro fit the switch inside and use glu to get it to stick in place







Yesterday and today has mostley been solidering and wirering, have used the 5 pin conector as Hallsensor signals ( to display orgianaly), the 3 pin as temp signal (TMM sensor signal originaly) and used XT150 conectors for phasewires


Finished up fiting lock, charger port and on/off swith to controller. Just took the switch on the controller replaced that with a conector and just a exstension to the frame


A bit of luck and i came across a damage bike that i could pick up for spare parts, so now i’m going for 9s Sram XO gearshifter with carbon details. And Formula R1 breaks





As i struggle a bit on how to solve the issue that CA has a 10v out to pas and torque sensors, i opened the CA and after talking to another bike builder i will pick up the 5v and skip 10v as my tmm and pas both run on 5v


As i have been waiting for the Hallsensors to arrive the motor has just been sitting in a corner halfway wired. Got a message today saying the sensors will arrive on wedensday, and thougt i would make the motor ready.

I used 10awg phase cables and orignal conectors, and it just wouldent fit out thru the axl gap. Going thru the options, i found a leftover bit of Grin L10 cable with 3x12awg and 7x24awg.

Grin cable

Looks excellent.
I also just started to disassemble an old Stromer inspired by Daxxxies build.

The original torque sensor at the rear dropout is a pain in the *ss and caused trouble all the time.
I will use a BB torque sensor like Daxxxie did.

Good luck.

Hi !

Thank you, and good luck to you as well

I havn’t tried this torque sensor on other then Stromer. But have tested it and it seems to work fine so i will give it a shot before switching to a BB one.

Stromer has made it difficult to figure out, and have some wierd solutions like the 3 pin cabel that you asume is Phase wires, but are + - and a singnal from batteri/bms and are very thin aswell

After a lot of searcing, this is all i found.



It not much, but a bit of old Stromer manual

New update on the building process.

Had too start wiering all over again, this time using new julet conectors,5pin for phase signal and a 2 pin for temp, and XT150 for phase wires ( it’s overkill, but thats the conectors i got





Got a respond from Grin today, telling me to not use trottle 5v for torque sensor



Found a cheap and easy workaround as the local RC shop had som simple step down to

5v

As i already have resoliderd the PAS/Torque 10V to 5v i have to switch it back to 10v. As i thinking about it, and looking at the wire harnes hanging from the CA. If the bike are as nice to ride as i hope it will be, it deserve «custom» wiring.
And the original Stromer connectors will come in handy and get to good use

Another worry is runing much more power thru the motor i need a torque arm of some kind. Do not like thw look of universal ones as they look bulky and ruin the look of a sleak bike.

Looking at the frame, and its beefy 11mm tick the frame are at the mounting of the wheel.

Have to sit down and do some drawing, but on the plus side the frame has 3 treaded holes and mounting of the breakcalipre as points of anchering a torque arm.



Maybe i’ll cut and weld a 10mm to fit the inside and bolt thru the outside. Can use 4mm steel on the outside and hold it in place by lining up holes used for the calipre.

Any challenges routing the new wires out from the motor? Not sure how fat the original battery cables and signal wires were, but since you'll now be routing 3 fat phase wires and a smaller number of signal wires, maybe it evens out. Does Stromer route the wires through the axle?

If it helps, I pulled the guts out of a Stromer Mountain33 TDCM/UltraMotor, and routed all the phase and hall signals (and a temperature sensor I glued under the windings) out to external controller using the Grin Tech sold-by-the-meter 12g phase/24g signal cable, and to get the cover on I had to trim some of the cable sheath off. (I used Kapton tape on the axle flat and the bearing ID at that spot to "replace" the insulation lost by the sheath being removed there, in case of any kind of wear/etc on the actual wire insulation in the future).

The controller it is on now is a generic, I think 15FET, 40A. This is now the rightside rear motor on the SB Cruiser trike. The leftside is an old MXUS3k with a Grinfineon 30A(?) 12FET. They're setup with the same throttle signal from the CAv3 controlled from the PAS primarily, with a throttle for times when I can't pedal or when I can't startup from a stop by pedalling. (the trike plus me is around 500lbs+, and can be around half a ton with a good load of cargo or groceries, etc).

Typical usage is my work commute for around 2.5 miles each way, with a dozen or more stops and starts. Motor temperature starts out at ambient, which right now is around 80-85F, and ends up around 120-130F by the end of a ride, on the side covers with an IR thermometer gun. (the internal sensor isn't yet calibrated with the CA, but it says it's 150-160F; I don't believe it's nearly that high because the side covers and axle don't feel more than very warm, even after several minutes sitting).

Anyway...just saying that most likely you won't run into heating issues with the motor unless your use case is harder on it than mine.

E-HP said:

Any challenges routing the new wires out from the motor? Not sure how fat the original battery cables and signal wires were, but since you'll now be routing 3 fat phase wires and a smaller number of signal wires, maybe it evens out. Does Stromer route the wires through the axle?

Click to expand...

It’s thight but i hope i will get it thru

Stromer has 3 connectors going in to the hub, 5pin conector to the display, 3 pin to the tmm sensor and battery power + 1 signal from bms

It has 5mm gap at the most



I think i will try to gently heat an try to shape the L10 a bit. Will give a update tomorrow

As i have been told it was a tight fit to route the cables back out.



But after a lot of struggle and swering the wheel and motor are joined as one

Have to do a controll of all conections, and hope for the best.



The moment of truth are here, seting up for testing.



The motor spin, but this is my first time using CA and the controller i got is for a CA V2
It’s possible to use the CA V3 i got, but with a lot less functonality.

So i desided to order a Phaserunner, so it takes a couple of weeks before i get going again.

But the battery is finished



Fits nice in the bag


As i’m waiting for the PR i got time to do all the small tasks thats waiting on the bike.

Tok out the angle grinder and did a cut out on a torque arm i got, 4 mm quality steel

.

Rough shaped and a lot of filing to do, using the calipre mount to secure it to the frame.





Waiting for parts the bike is starting to take shape, fitet som inexpencive fenders from SKS and found a alternativ mounting the CA





Today the shipment fron Grin landed on my doorstep and as the Phaserunner are the missing link, finishing this project can start



After buzy summer and a standstill in the Stromer projekt, a couple of things has changed.

The first challange came along testing the Phaserunner, the wheel was spinning and every thing seem to work perfect. But soon got a hallsensor issue indicatet from the blinking led on the PR

And the 52v was a to tight fit an got sold, then summer came along.

But a couple of weeks ago i came a cross a new Crystalyte H55100 hub motor, after sizing it up found that it would work.




Test running the bike with a 60v pack i just love the motor and power it gives. Just tried it limeted the PR to 40A but i’m sold



Just bought 5 Bosch power packs 500wh from a dealer, they where new and was replaced on warrenty with bms issues. Evry cell in each pack are perfectly balanced and has 40pcl of LG18650mj1 cells



Building a 20s7p battery with 70A bms

amberwolf said:

If it helps, I pulled the guts out of a Stromer Mountain33 TDCM/UltraMotor, and routed all the phase and hall signals (and a temperature sensor I glued under the windings) out to external controller using the Grin Tech sold-by-the-meter 12g phase/24g signal cable, and to get the cover on I had to trim some of the cable sheath off. (I used Kapton tape on the axle flat and the bearing ID at that spot to "replace" the insulation lost by the sheath being removed there, in case of any kind of wear/etc on the actual wire insulation in the future).

The controller it is on now is a generic, I think 15FET, 40A. This is now the rightside rear motor on the SB Cruiser trike. The leftside is an old MXUS3k with a Grinfineon 30A(?) 12FET. They're setup with the same throttle signal from the CAv3 controlled from the PAS primarily, with a throttle for times when I can't pedal or when I can't startup from a stop by pedalling. (the trike plus me is around 500lbs+, and can be around half a ton with a good load of cargo or groceries, etc).

Typical usage is my work commute for around 2.5 miles each way, with a dozen or more stops and starts. Motor temperature starts out at ambient, which right now is around 80-85F, and ends up around 120-130F by the end of a ride, on the side covers with an IR thermometer gun. (the internal sensor isn't yet calibrated with the CA, but it says it's 150-160F; I don't believe it's nearly that high because the side covers and axle don't feel more than very warm, even after several minutes sitting).

Anyway...just saying that most likely you won't run into heating issues with the motor unless your use case is harder on it than mine.

Click to expand...

The Stromer setup with the controller inside the hub had to be restricted to 36v i belive, heat from the motor and controller all in the center

Planing to use 52v, and as of now that i’m going to use a Phaserunner i will set a limit to 50A.
As this are the P48 version it’s not as torque’e but a bit faster.

Any challanges i should be aware of as i’m going forward ?

Any updates?
I need to buy parts for an Stromer recycling project.
I dont know what display and controller to buy.
I want to use a BB torque sensor. And i want to keep using the battery regeneration via brake lever.
Which controllers/displays are able to handle that, exept Phaserunner.?
I want to use the original motor (rewired).

Any suggestions?

At last the Stromer is finished !!!






It’s now a bit overkill of a bike, running the Phaserunner at a 50amp max i needed to ad a heatsink. The Crystalyte H55100 motor has never been above 38c, it’s a bit on the heavy side but runs smooth as silk with lot of torque.

But it has become a beast of a bike, it’s crazy fast and as it’s winter in Norway at the moment i haven’t been able to test what it can do.

But it runs strait up to 70kmh and have more torque then i hoped for
Now i’m tweeking the setings and bit by bit getting the torque sensor, ramping up and down values etc getting the respons i want


All in the bike has evolved a bit

Frame: Stromer ST1
Breaks: Magura MT5/MT4
Drivline: Sunrace 9s 11-32 Cassette
Sram X-O derauiller & shifter
Shimano e-bike chain
52t front cog

Handlebar / Stem:
Surly sunraice handlebar
FSA carbon Stem 110mm
B&M cyclestar 80 mirror
Brakett CA
Magura/Sram shifter mix

Seat:
Fizik M3 tundra
BBS setepinne 400mm

Fender & rak:
SKS velo 80 skjermer
Rak

Wheels:
Ceystalyte H55100 motor, buildt on original rim
Shwalbe Racing Ralph 26x2.1

Battery:
72v / 24,5ah
20s7p, 80A bms, LG18650MJ1









Controller:
Phaserunner, Cycle Analyst, Aux dig, Aux man pot

Motor:
Crystalyte H55100

Light:
Linkbest SPL-01 1900 lumen 12-60v fronlys.
Supernova fork mount
Rockbro rear light w/breaklight
Stepdown dcdc 80v12v

Elektronic etc:
Pas sensor
Julet waterproof 5,3 og 2pin
DcDc 10-5v stepdown
XT150 phase kontakter
XT60 batteri kontakter
Key switch lås on/off
TMM toruque sensor
Magura break sensor
Wuxing 108x thumb trottle

tom355 said:

Any updates?
I need to buy parts for an Stromer recycling project.
I dont know what display and controller to buy.
I want to use a BB torque sensor. And i want to keep using the battery regeneration via brake lever.
Which controllers/displays are able to handle that, exept Phaserunner.?
I want to use the original motor (rewired).

Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Sorry about the late replay, the Stromer project was at a stand still untill october.

You don’t need to buy a bb torque sensor, just use the orginal Stromer TMM torque sensor it works like a charm.



If you use a CycleAnalyst v3 from Grin, you can hook up pas, torque, switches, trottle and have a lot of controllers to choose from.

But if you want to keep the orginal battery and the bike looking fairly as a Stromer you need a small but powerful controller. A Baserunner with CA would do the trick, and saves you a lot of hazzle installing after rewiring the motor.