Parts bin build.... kind of

HrKlev

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Dec 6, 2019
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After having built a couple of ebikes that I use mostly for exercise, I think I have got a bit of the ebine bug.... First experience with ebikes was not very successful for my likings, but I have this battery that I assembled for that build laying around long enough that I figured I had to do something with it. Its a 16s6p with what appeared almost unused cells from m365 scooters.
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I also had a Phaserunner, a mxus xf40 6 turn (I think) built in a narrow 28" wheel, a bunch of misc bike parts, and found a bike in the shed that could use some tlc...
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Im planning to make a standard grocery-getter with this one. Something that can take me and a a pack of beer around without ending up all sweaty.
 
I want this to be a reliable build, so I need to have a temp sensor so I dont cook the windings. I saw the motor had the standard 9 pin plug (z910 at grin) with really tiny cables, so figured I could upgrade it while I was at it. So I irdered a L10 harness for the phaserunner, and a motor cable. Could not get the cable from the L10 connector through the axle, but at least I could run two of each phase cable from the z910 cable through. I think it should be enough for the 96 phase amps from the phaserunner. I also installed a ntc 10k resistor right at the windings.
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I ordered a 24 inch rim with a sapim spokes and a holy roller tire. I have never laced a rim before, and it seems like I get to do it all again. The nipples will not align correctly with the spokes, so I guess I have to fine tune the rim wit a drill bit. Oh well...

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Even though its not much energy to save on regen on an ebike, I like the idea of not just wasting it on burning through brake pads. I have some quite steep hills around here, so figured I would like to use it. I want this bike to be as reliable as possible, so figured I should use some clamping torque arms. Maybe they are a bit overkill for a dinky ~3kw setup, but they were free to make, so why not. There were a couple holes near the drop out that was perfect anchors. As long as the frame holds together, I dont think the axle will move now
 

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Did a quick test run with the battery in a back-pack, and I really enjoy the quiet feeling a dd hub gives. The regen was surprisingly stong, almost able to lock up the rear wheel on gravel.

Need to print a case for the battery, and tons of other bits and pieces....
 
Yes and safety cover for the motor wire exit-- nice touch. :thumb:
 
Thanks guys! I think I will have to make something like the cable protection on the right side axle as well, as they will be perfect for footpegs when I get the cargo rack mounted.

I bike was left outside for a few years before left in the shed, so most of the bearings and cables were not reusable. I found most of the stuff in my parts bin, but had to buy a couple items:
- Forks. Bought the cheapest rockshox with springs. They seem PK for this duty
- Bar. Im coming from 760mm from my other bikes, so this narrow bar felt really off. Found a cheap alu 700mm bar locally
- Huge cruiser saddle
- Removable front basket (wifey insisted)
- support, middle mount

Other than that, it has got the following items from my left overs:
- Stem
- 8spd shifter
- 8spd chain
- 9spd deore derailleur
- some kind of crank that came from my FS bike
- pedals
- 42t NW chainring
- new brake and gear cables
- Rear brake handle with brake cut
- 26x2.2 front tire

Printed a case for the battery and hooked up the phaserunner quick and dirty. Will need to redo the case and try to include a phaserunner mount to make it a little more neat. This was just to get it going. Also need to get a new front caliper and mount the rear rack and some fenders.

Bike is doing 45kmh without field weakening, which I think is OK, safety and efficiency wise. Could always add some FW if nescessary. I will have to ride it for a little while to figure out if I should get a suspension seat post or not.
 

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Turns out there are "non disc brake compatible" cargo racks. Of course that was what I got... Had to cut and re-drill the mount, and made it work. It has got a quick release system, so I have a big ass basket and a cooler bag I can click on and off, depending which is pretty sweet. Also made another "cable protector" for the other side, perfect footpeg for the kid on the rear rack!

Also needed to re-print the battery case as the first one was printed in PLA. Tvat stuff turns into wet noodle-strengt when left baking in the sun, so it was starting to get some weird shape...

I hate the front basket, but wifey insists it needs to be there. So had to get one with a quick release system as well.

Bike is getting a lot more use than I realised. Now in the summer its such a great form of transportation. Pretty much useless as a MTB, but so awesome for lazy days on smooth roads!
 

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HrKlev said:
Also needed to re-print the battery case as the first one was printed in PLA. Tvat stuff turns into wet noodle-strengt when left baking in the sun, so it was starting to get some weird shape...

ASA or PETG?
 
Im using PETG for all my battery cases. It has been working OK so far. I have not tried (or researced) ASA yet. Maybe I will have to hit google. Is it something new? Most of the stuff I read about when learning how to 3d print was either PLA, ABS or PETG.
 
HrKlev said:
Im using PETG for all my battery cases. It has been working OK so far. I have not tried (or researced) ASA yet. Maybe I will have to hit google. Is it something new? Most of the stuff I read about when learning how to 3d print was either PLA, ABS or PETG.

ASA is the modern replacement for ABS minus the odiferous fumes. Better UV resistance and high tensile strength.
However if PETG is working for you then it is less expensive and easier to print.

ASA (Acrylonitrile styrene acrylate)
The alternative to ABS for high temperature or outdoor use with improved weather resistance and better resistance to UV. Less prone to warping and other infamous ABS printing problems as well. More expensive that PLA or ABS. Also available in a number of specialty formulations.
Common nozzle temperatures: 240±10 °C
Common bed temperatures: 100±10 °C
Needs part cooling: maybe, after first layers
Needs enclosure: highly recommended (avoid warping and/or delamination)

3D printing functional car parts with ApolloX (ASA)
https://youtu.be/lCqwA1h3JV4

3d Printing ASA For Beginners (Ender 3) Most Underrated Filament?
https://youtu.be/Zqbv3xH4w6c
 
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