Flying Merkel inspired e-bike & sidecar build

Joined
Aug 27, 2021
Messages
153
Location
Toronto, Ontario
Having given up on the thought of owning a boardtrack racer from the early 1900's due to a lack of about 250K in the ole bank account I have concluded that the only way to capture that feel is with an electric build.

As is my mantra, build everything from scratch that your skills allow. So for me that means the frame, the oil cooled 2-4 kW motor, battery pack, fenders, rear rack, and sidecar with exchangeable cargo box or seat for two small dogs should be doable. My goal is to use this to ride many of Ontario's rural rail trails with my dogs. I hope that they like it better than the dog trailer we had.

I've selected the 1911 Flying Merkel Model W with single cylinder engine.

So tonight I knocked out a side plan view drawing to print full scale to use as a guide template to build the frame. I still need to do the front and rear plan views and the elevation views to set up a strongback jig for welding up the frame.

AM-JKLU6KNTxNiG7hUXS67D_rrQtlOm1GS8qKaq_0mRiURE_tr9kf_ZudYex1pepZ4OKdr27Vdc-K6ttqdPQilVDf5qcseEDhcTmwE6eR91ynO6hQyMR_hc0-A8eCOreJoPWRlPSTkuPEFEyLrluy4OsDUem=w1037-h531-no


AM-JKLUWIWuNJdgPJe_IsI9NO5lfby3CzuXrixZO9GvTlBQXW7leC4X_J_WZD8iiMe1xL0mQb8oYb1wSeZNg18FtJwOhVvfbKbJThaUaa2LYiQE_LwURvfoVl6Re5o8KrLkO0DxIugF-ZfEw0BjAZaAnqIkT=w1239-h659-no


AM-JKLVPQRvzyflwK4E4C3txpeZRvLEIAJ6Wo_1t7rWJKf3QYPnJox6_6nvTl8wrMnwAKwmmUrolM9dCNq0cPP4fF_GXVlmSlPELFgDeJnQg_LIeSMqbAd2qWs4S6KpPDX5aDeLnovD1-w9JiucSWRZw-I7s=w1002-h757-no


I've chosen this bike for the spring frame and forks, for the challenge of reverse engineering those elements with little information on how the parts are built and assembled.

I'm torn between maintaining exactly the same design, or modifying the design to have better geometry. I am committed to changing the seat and chain stays so that the left side is symmetrical with the right side, rather than left side stays that project outwards to accommodate the wide leather drive belt and drive gear. I'm going to use modern gates belt and timing gears for this which saves that space. I'll emulate Tom Staton's segmented gear attached to the brake disk on the rear hub.

Debating a Nuvinci CVT N171 or something else.

With a custom designed motor with a hollow spindle core like on a lathe I could place the cranks thru the spindle core along with a PAS torque sensor. If I do this I attain better symmetrical geometry and Q factor. But then it doesn't look original. I can maintain look of original and improve the symmetry and the Q factor but the pedaling geometry not so much. I'm not 100% certain of this though since I'm never designed a frame and haven't had time to model a rider in the drawing yet.

I plan to mimic a Binova Flow's external uncovered rotor design to some extent to create very narrow motor. I can even machine the radial edge of the rotor to act as a gear that interlocks with a drive gear for a very small custom machined gear oil pump to allow active motor and battery cooling like with the magnax motor. That pump will bolt to the aluminum flange of the motor stator. The stator will be about 1.25" thick and be fully potted.

I'll mount the pump where the magneto usually went on the merkel. I'll use the space of the cylinder to instead have a similarly shaped cylindrical radiator housing. A copper coil will be epoxied into the inner surface of the cylinder. I'll put the batteries in the gas tank. The inside of the gas tank shell will have copper wound cooling core.. I'll make the oil lines for this mimic the look of the fuel lines of old.

Although I realise an intermittently operated tiny electric pump controlled by Arduino reading temp sensors in both the battery and motor is likely far more efficient.

The main parts of the build I will feature here are the bike frame, the motor and drive train, the cooling system, the battery pack and the sidecar. I haven't seen anyone here with such a build. I'm debating having a hub motor and battery pack on the sidecar for extra boost.

Acknowledgments:

I was inspired by the Laprise broadtracker, juicer ebikes, and APL's cruiser build. mostly though the kick in the pants and final design inspirations were a result of my reviewing reams of research while responding to APL's build thread.

NOTE:

I dont think that I have seen active oil based cooling or a hollow motor axle or spindle used at all in a build on this forum. The Binova flow tweaked me to that idea about a year ago but it was not until looking at APLs build that I tweaked how to address Binova's horrid Q factor.

IF anyone knows of a build here that has these ideas implemented in them please let me know.
 
Working on my motor design...

I've worked out the motor shaft, cranks, stator dimensions and bearings, as well as the rotors their attachment to the shaft, the magnet array and alignment to assure 1 mm air gap.

Now just working on the stator windings and I want to do the cooling...

Here is what things look like so far.

AM-JKLWfDRf1PckWiAthfK3Xg6zOevZDJBjwrWfIBfDaU5NoyM3f5IzMPE3cEu8QH9WJ2sxnvcLpWD1sM31mz90gymLPR467NnxzoEbwBfThWMsQAaxfFAq211korGrQ6G7S9jTMvwQVBgFgYXQSH4g4zb1D=w709-h526-no


I may start this drawing again, along with the frame drawing. I started with multiple drawings, and the idea of a precisely 9" diameter motor, but now I want to add slightly to the external dimension of the motor to get more metal outside the area of the coils to be able to implement my cooling design... I could shrink my magnets and move them radially towards the core, but that sacrifices performance..

So I need to make one design in fusion to address this, and then change the frame drawing so I can extrude frame tubes and then break everything out into components to be able to do exploded views.
 
Thanks for the encouragement Bigwheel!

This is a great learning experience for me. I'm used to working on my wife and my's Cannondale H600 hybrids, my mountain bike and the local kids cheap bikes, I'd not realized how much has changed in cycling with ebikes, fat bikes, etc. So many choices.

Narrowing it down though to gate carbon drive components at least. Too bad their products are light on specifications and dimensions. I have to wait for a locking ring I ordered to arrive just to get the thread dimensions from it.

Here's the "non-drive" side with the 24 tooth cog that will run to a cog attached to the brake caliper attachment point on the rear hub. The drive side crank will run back to a cog on a 5 speed internally geared hub, or a NuVinci 171

AM-JKLXREnBdgac0F77TYST38A8cS2RhI9TtenMo7yRcj7XaSO5PfT7dEdkO0GhKz2pVpyuvVS_vOuL15yzWO9psXucMKqwlmVqC1sxL3x5EKW-pSbsa8KE_NtHb0h55IHKpJBSZLlkkD4VLI26shx3hHPFP=w997-h612-no


I was able to model one cog and the splines onto the motor spindle with what info I could find.

AM-JKLXt8TY8vukUnz9B3KJC97QpzCpPDRhEEdkKEBpfzJZ7vsEN8ehaWTOvdq6xprTAMFy4y1jwMGKQUCNDH510GcnsQf-B6R_VhqGS5J6NpH1VQoqgyJtbgiU7OZGkZOQtYid2aJwyqPrhLR7ZmvP0dyvV=w806-h565-no


AM-JKLX70KZZf_2Cu5KFFilJ5E6lIDGkknupZi_hf_HU3YkFVOQ2f9wdAOUwN-pg1ctoU0RCNJLw7w93bp6wkmrLgZ3r9CYFUOhdCoHx4AdQ31gddd_o8OpjKzOtln0I6UIVsKkBeBtzDPpXpYGxCXPMFV2q=w790-h581-no


The motor will have 26 magnets and 24 coils in a wye configuration. The design will permit a very small airgap. I'll test it first at 1 mm and then try to reduce it to .5 mm if all goes well.

AM-JKLUBLDSGUIDXoCSDnExiNcc80xtUyy1f5tHfLMBrLivMp0LV8jXqbYyGzmo6GY1qeL0skF2CRnh1hjPMd7hTDErNNVPkm56Y9JuWQwaDlFaXMdMEwDWmSsx7FQBiYBkvhxDSAc3Skd2WMBsbYfxSNYoG=w676-h717-no


View without the stator and opposing rotor assembly.

AM-JKLUppXvX28kj0SatU0ZOkCiGqShrZ4GwiyzE7O1yd3LbOOXrkfcqJmhNFW-FPIDtxY7M3EJBTusFjalcUhRqYqrMDPcmUcP3KS4Up2QnR3a8ysepJnAvnlUNBdlpGA6AtY9t8xPuc7b1-e7b4owasZw0=w711-h556-no
 
I'm going to experiment with a composite rotor that uses a 3D printed PETG core that is reinforced by the back iron, magnet array and epoxy filler as well as a ring around the rim.

The rotor will mount to the motor spindle using a self centering keyless mounting hub machined from T6061 aluminum. provided that the other parts are machined true there will be minimal run out. I intend to first machine the motor spindle turning the exterior dimension on the lathe between centers for maximum accuracy. Then I will rough drill out the center of the spindle, and finish the interior dimensions using a boring bar. I have to leave a raised boss on the inside of both ends for the 1.37" x 24 thread to be able to mount a bottom bracket and cranks.

I will then use the spindle to mount and turn the rotors to be concentric and flat on the face.

To do that I will make two sets of keyless hubs and a temporary rotor disk about 4" in diameter. I'll mount that disk on the hub and test the set up for deviation. I dont expect any issues since I've used this technique to mount hollow rotors onto inner shafts with the same type of keyless hub when matching etching presses for a few artist friends.

Once I have a good foundation I can proceed building the composite rotors.

First I will try a 3D printed core of PETG printed slightly over size. I'll first mount it in the 3 jaw chuck and true the bore with light passes from boring bar. IF that does not work well I will switch to my tool post grinder with abrasive wheels. Once the bore is true I can mount the core on the spindle between centers. Then I will lightly true up the pocket for the back iron and magnets. The beauty of machining between centers is that I can remove the part and then put if back without losing concentricity.

Prior to machining the rotors I'll have first machined a back iron ring from a chunk of low carbon steel, and have glued the magnets and spacers to the back iron using a gluing jig to align and fasten the magnets and magnet spacers to the back iron.
The assembly will be pressed between ground steel plates to assure a tight and level bond with no surface variances.

I'll also have made an exterior ring to reinforce the rotor while under radial loads during motor operation. Going to look at many options here based on what we have in our shop. Likely I'll roll up a sheet of stainless steel into a ring and weld it closed slightly larger than the expected rotor diameter so it can be slipped over the rotor with epoxy on the inside face of the ring.

Once the pocket is finished I can fasten the back iron assembly with some thin slow set epoxy again pressing the rotor face into a ground level steel plate that has been treated with mould release. This will assure smooth plane on the magnet side of the rotor.

Now I will have a rotor with one good side face with more structural integrity due to the addition of the back iron. Next I will mount the ring to the rim and then machine the exterior of the rotor smooth. Finally I'll give it a high speed test at 1200 rpm on the lathe.

If it passes the test I'll coat the outside face of the rotor with self leveling epoxy to give it a smooth sheen.

If the rotor core shows any sign of failure at any point I'll next try a composite laminate material for the core.

AM-JKLV8KPonstAsRq1V4muxSL0nKE421MEkpDP7orZ8ERGMTzythzdMaiF7HfA-jYlvaQHNTSetOQh2cAbWatIv4BWZEJZv40Ue1UdwL5rxMqzn3PuX20Z9r0WTlcpFzTh3pfLMH4w9Yc7qyS1xHRx4C9Wl=w617-h621-no


AM-JKLXA95VD6aZ9WUsw1Mr3REAvxbGRVVYSmjCnxUE4_5FznovPAXcuKhnJAd1nH7eZtuFDKctO_rllZJYz2JhppIC7kenaFn9KeAWHjjZlj42SGRWMPuwNyarkRUf6z3isKth-5GzKmXETYgaS6-EGRPo3=w640-h601-no


AM-JKLXW44opuDY7q3dTTUoznK1LEVPsVQPeYu55-xfCWaeWu435XsETSZL1Ch5666vRJ8nkrYd75nwfnO7yePhVZ0L_WYbwZBnbMlPx5o1PXR3CntIAnJMBB_Kc5LVLI_-HPOGnxU5Fma_NWeN8dRl9uHbD=w651-h623-no


AM-JKLXr4na7kBHIdc2tBhZP-modMgGALG0LbLuR3VknXm__HP6ddLERxx6N2-qSrJG_rCTqn58G5mMZpuR0-Y9AC4Uokyt5jhPVhTlExD9UDlyS9nb7A2N4bgCJP5Nznq_o6YG-GTeVlwvS3UvF8i11sSYT=w571-h615-no
 
I had to reject the torque sensor idea because I am using 120 mm wide "bottom bracket" shell aka motor spindle.

Instead I shall opt for a CA3 Compatible Mini PAS Sensor, I just need to figure out how to clamp it given the rotation of the bottom bracket shell and the crankset both.

I am debating purchasing a fatbike crankset from First Components or making my own.

fat-bike-crankset-mo.jpg


I'd swap out the chain ring for a 4-BOLT CDX Belt sprocket... size TBD. The 4 bolt models range from 39 tooth to 55 tooth which should be ample choice.

55t-5-bolt-cdx-angle-1-centertrack-gates-carbon-drive.jpg


I've designed my motor spindle to be able to shift the spindle from side to side before locking it all down so I can adjust beltlines to be perfect... still working on what they will be.

On the motor drive side the front sprocket tooth selection is limited to 22, 24, 26 and 28. The rear sprocket selection goes up to 70 tooth given my mounting options for the rear wheel.
 
TorontoBuilder said:
Having given up on the thought of owning a boardtrack racer from the early 1900's due to a lack of about 250K in the ole bank account I have concluded that the only way to capture that feel is with an electric build.

As is my mantra, build everything from scratch that your skills allow. So for me that means the frame, the oil cooled 2-4 kW motor, battery pack, fenders, rear rack, and sidecar with exchangeable cargo box or seat for two small dogs should be doable. My goal is to use this to ride many of Ontario's rural rail trails with my dogs. I hope that they like it better than the dog trailer we had.

I've selected the 1911 Flying Merkel Model W with single cylinder engine.

So tonight I knocked out a side plan view drawing to print full scale to use as a guide template to build the frame. I still need to do the front and rear plan views and the elevation views to set up a strongback jig for welding up the frame.

AM-JKLU6KNTxNiG7hUXS67D_rrQtlOm1GS8qKaq_0mRiURE_tr9kf_ZudYex1pepZ4OKdr27Vdc-K6ttqdPQilVDf5qcseEDhcTmwE6eR91ynO6hQyMR_hc0-A8eCOreJoPWRlPSTkuPEFEyLrluy4OsDUem=w1037-h531-no


AM-JKLUWIWuNJdgPJe_IsI9NO5lfby3CzuXrixZO9GvTlBQXW7leC4X_J_WZD8iiMe1xL0mQb8oYb1wSeZNg18FtJwOhVvfbKbJThaUaa2LYiQE_LwURvfoVl6Re5o8KrLkO0DxIugF-ZfEw0BjAZaAnqIkT=w1239-h659-no


AM-JKLVPQRvzyflwK4E4C3txpeZRvLEIAJ6Wo_1t7rWJKf3QYPnJox6_6nvTl8wrMnwAKwmmUrolM9dCNq0cPP4fF_GXVlmSlPELFgDeJnQg_LIeSMqbAd2qWs4S6KpPDX5aDeLnovD1-w9JiucSWRZw-I7s=w1002-h757-no


I've chosen this bike for the spring frame and forks, for the challenge of reverse engineering those elements with little information on how the parts are built and assembled.

I'm torn between maintaining exactly the same design, or modifying the design to have better geometry. I am committed to changing the seat and chain stays so that the left side is symmetrical with the right side, rather than left side stays that project outwards to accommodate the wide leather drive belt and drive gear. I'm going to use modern gates belt and timing gears for this which saves that space. I'll emulate Tom Staton's segmented gear attached to the brake disk on the rear hub.

Debating a Nuvinci CVT N171 or something else.

With a custom designed motor with a hollow spindle core like on a lathe I could place the cranks thru the spindle core along with a PAS torque sensor. If I do this I attain better symmetrical geometry and Q factor. But then it doesn't look original. I can maintain look of original and improve the symmetry and the Q factor but the pedaling geometry not so much. I'm not 100% certain of this though since I'm never designed a frame and haven't had time to model a rider in the drawing yet.

I plan to mimic a Binova Flow's external uncovered rotor design to some extent to create very narrow motor. I can even machine the radial edge of the rotor to act as a gear that interlocks with a drive gear for a very small custom machined gear oil pump to allow active motor and battery cooling like with the magnax motor. That pump will bolt to the aluminum flange of the motor stator. The stator will be about 1.25" thick and be fully potted.

I'll mount the pump where the magneto usually went on the merkel. I'll use the space of the cylinder to instead have a similarly shaped cylindrical radiator housing. A copper coil will be epoxied into the inner surface of the cylinder. I'll put the batteries in the gas tank. The inside of the gas tank shell will have copper wound cooling core.. I'll make the oil lines for this mimic the look of the fuel lines of old.

Although I realise an intermittently operated tiny electric pump controlled by Arduino reading temp sensors in both the battery and motor is likely far more efficient.

The main parts of the build I will feature here are the bike frame, the motor and drive train, the cooling system, the battery pack and the sidecar. I haven't seen anyone here with such a build. I'm debating having a hub motor and battery pack on the sidecar for extra boost.

Acknowledgments:

I was inspired by the Laprise broadtracker, juicer ebikes, and APL's cruiser build. mostly though the kick in the pants and final design inspirations were a result of my reviewing reams of research while responding to APL's build thread.

NOTE:

I dont think that I have seen active oil based cooling or a hollow motor axle or spindle used at all in a build on this forum. The Binova flow tweaked me to that idea about a year ago but it was not until looking at APLs build that I tweaked how to address Binova's horrid Q factor.

IF anyone knows of a build here that has these ideas implemented in them please let me know.

This looks like an Ambitious Build, good luck with it.

I assume you are aware of the Canadian Vintage Motorcycle Group.. https://cvmg.ca/

A few thoughts, as an individual experienced with sidecar equipped motorcycles, in both setup and riding..

Driven wheels to both sidecar and motorcycle might pose issues in terms of steering control. There have been precious few Sidecar outfits equipped with a successful 2wd option, and those were generally Military outfits used in low speed, difficult terrain conditions - and the driveshaft was disengageable to the sidecar wheel, to prevent tendency to want to track straight into corners at higher speed, smoother surface conditions.

There was a one-off custom 'High Performance Sidecar rig' that i am aware of that utilizes a 2wd system, involving a proportional gearing/LSD setup in a PTO arrangement located under the sidecar body. I can't even fathom the amount his engineering and fabrication efforts cost him, for his project build.

Sidecar wheel, lead in. This is crucial for neutral steering characteristics - do NOT put the sidecar wheel parallel to the bicycle rear axle. The sidecar wheel needs to lead a few inches ahead of the motorcycle axle - as such, build in adjustability of position and length of your sidecar attachments, to make this doable. You'll also need that adjustability for sidecar toe-in and motorcycle lean-out setup. Otherwise, you'll be scrubbing your tires away inside of an afternoon or two due to track misalignment. I'd suggest utilizing adjustable Heim Joints with connection rods for that purpose. You'll be adjusting Frequently, at least initially, until the setup finds it's best 'track'.. sidecar/motorcycle synergistic setup tends to be equal parts Black Magic, and Science.. and no two setups are exactly alike, except from Factory.

Steering/handling - while it might not be as big an issue with your lightweight project - the best way to make a motorcycle handle like a wheelbarrow, is to leave the front end steering geometry as is while adding a sidecar to it. Rake and Trail must be looked at, to make steering responsive, and not near as heavy in terms of steering effort required.

Proportionally speaking - look at the overall rig, as three points of a Triangle - do not let the legs between corners (wheels) be too narrow/short in any dimension. Stability requires both adequate length in terms of wheel track fore and aft, as well as distance between centerline of motorcycle, and sidecar wheel.

Try to observe the general rule 3:1 - motorcycle weight generally should not be more than 3 times the weight of the sidecar. Avoid building a lighter, or physically under scale sidecar relative to motorcycle, which creates a generally unstable setup... on a serious bump with a rigid suspension chair, if two light, it could throw the pups out of the seat - or worse, turn the rig turtle. I've done that once, so please don't do that... no pups were harmed in my case. Utilize the battery pack location for weight ballast, accordingly.

Similarly, building up an overly large sidecar, relative to motorcycle, presents challenges all of it's own. See my Photo example below of this - this was a mismatch pairing, 'a challenge' in regard to overcoming that weight/scale mismatch - sidecar was originally meant for a much larger/heavier touring bike. It took Automotive tires/rims, complete suspension design replacement on front and AND for sidecar wheel, and a sway-bar linkage to keep things nice, flat and stable in terms of neutral, bump-steer free handling. It was a personal design/aesthetic exercise that came out of a cheap sidecar opportunity, that got away from me at first, then became a serious engineering challenge when Reality hit. I've done two other outfits, that were much more proportional to scale, and relatively unchallenging in setup.. scale, matters.

Treat the package as a whole - what you do with the addition of a sidecar, is going to affect the motorcycle, and vice versa. 'Suspension' as such for your project, isn't really a concern.. but it is a general factor with the more modern sidecar rigs using suspension in various forms, in respect to changes that need to be made and are often overlooked, when adding a sidecar to a motorcycle.

I would concentrate on getting that motor putting out as many Watts as possible.. with rider, and dogs on board, you will need something that will not overwork itself to death through overheating, liquid cooling, or not. Attachment of a sidecar does put a scrub and rolling load on motive power utilized, regardless of scale. Marginal power, will yield unsatisfactory results for your application.

I may be overcomplicating your project needlessly, versus your own goals and desires for it.. but please do look at the whole package - before you start laying pipe to build your frame - you might want to locate the ideal frame points for connection bosses for your sidecar linkages, as some vintage motorcycles came with, back in the day.

FWIW, and IMHO.. good luck!

62aa623adc24e6444c5027c7df1e5fa1 (1).jpg
 
HackD thank you so much for the information!

Yes this is an ambitious project, but far less so than a steam locomotive. I can ride this more places than a loco too.

You have given me more to think about in terms of the side car arrangement than I had thought of yet. I very much appreciate that feedback regarding weight balance and geometry. If I was planning on riding with side car all the time I'd build the battery pack into the underside of the sidecar... that is something to think about as an option.

As far as thoughts about powered sidecar drive, I'd only considered a small hub wheel add on if it proved necessary (which I doubt). No Years ago I'd seen a bike trailer that was had e-drive assist that gave the idea of side car with a hub motor. That trailer is the ridekick but now there are many more.

AM-JKLUQ_Xi1rff2YtnLWgPwpxLacA9ukeUS7KOQ9rGuuvGUsNZa20a7q6MJNX1mKGwDqbKEX2sKGyi35JkDwOwjsOv1ACMrGBb0ehV7ANLWZnEJkpER0_la4KKtx1hc_Bjldum5qzvZHheaNJMLkoMn30yy=w755-h406-no


I always, and I mean always, make a complete plan before I pick up a single tool... I will only build the motor first once I have a complete plan of it to test for power output.

As an example, here is a height gauge that uses a vernier scale (not shown) I designed to measure the distance setting between two rollers of the etching press I designed. My brother on the other hand is a trained machinist who likes to design on the fly. I'm not, so I like to design everything fully and carefully, during which process I plan out the order of operations for machining to make sure that I dont screw up.

AM-JKLWNc0J6fABoDaK12gvrkvCRy2e6Pk0Cx2Ynq9KXe_-EObN-FVzFV8HDCp3yNLRRH58OhMTj8wz7a_QR_Nr_Fr1sUbgGTvWn8eyirpdZbKqdv7H3z7xpC_a6EF32GjDIKxrjsFNHypV7DeS-K9mGJbqR=w545-h588-no


The merkel design has a lot of lugs and bosses that look great, so adding a few more to attach the sidecar will look natural.
 
I'd thought that I had already posted the sidecar type I was going to recreate but apparently not.

I am going with the Hugo Young designed Flxible sidecar since it is both period appropriate and by 1919 was the world's largest exclusive manufacturer of motorcycle sidecar as per https://www.rideapart.com/.

the-flxible-side-car-a-different-angle-on-sidecar-design.jpg



the-flxible-side-car-a-different-angle-on-sidecar-design.jpg



the-flxible-side-car-a-different-angle-on-sidecar-design.jpg



the-flxible-side-car-a-different-angle-on-sidecar-design.jpg



Henderson-1921-FLXI-3.jpg



Henderson-1921-FLXI-1.jpg



Henderson-1921-FLXI-5.jpg



Henderson-1921-FLXI-6.jpg
 
Seems like the variable camber feature would help cornering immensely. Wonder if modern sidecars still incorporate this feature?
 
99t4 said:
Seems like the variable camber feature would help cornering immensely. Wonder if modern sidecars still incorporate this feature?

I'm not sure if there are any modern Sidecar manufacturers making the leaning type, still in existance - in North America, anyway.

There was the Equalean Sidecar, circa mid-late 1970's.. these are fairly rare to find today.

equaln2.jpg
equaln3 (2).jpg

Flexit Sidecars are more recent vintage, from late 1970's through the 1980's.

unnamed.jpg

There is one or two other Euro based Flexible sidecar makes, but low production run, big ticket costs.

Armec Sidewinder

download (60).jpg

..and some people are rolling their own projects.

82534cb13de55503f1b0e24eb717fefb--php-motorcycles.jpg
47561b6353adc89a539155be4cd1b8fa.jpg

Excellent resource for the Leaners:

https://thekneeslider.com/flexible-tilting-sidecars/
 
I know of a few Indian and Asian sidecar manufacturers but they're of a scale for motorcycles rather than light motorcycles and bikes.

I do have Mitchell's 19080s leaner sidecar patent drawings if I wanted to go with a leaner. I am just not sure that my dogs will do with a leaner.

Interestingly Hyundai recently (2019) patented a sidecar system clearly designed for mid-drive e-bikes... it does not appear robust enough for their iteration (not shown) that has the side car towing an additional trailer.

AM-JKLVVmmj64vKzZHk74Kxw0Mr0IYbGRBg1xzcPpkE4hp8OVU3lUmsG9-kC_hj8ONAcABJ-Vh0SvqOURSjGc3oqfeBVbJ2EKUTYegXM6Y_F7KB97ohs2zTyHmcjqRpM8MGUyLM3Z3Ba0BhaSMMNIicRlmb7=w868-h625-no


AM-JKLXkvMI2069jty12XsrxhxF_RrT0Hob_33idV0cYBiQMMHj8X_r27wkTQI5V-DCHWtp1l0WrMOaBvoDYNCGAbjsvFj1O6wDi0SOlZWyUUbhlzN3JM755Lt03FygggeisOm8VqgxWF7zzm-9iUeXh8aVk=w974-h661-no


AM-JKLVcTw4E6_5wJuix1-iUZn-isKNF_1Ey3ROVhj2KR2D23SFYp8BYGRSENw1FvMQW9D7q01FBqEYlTg5KOdhDnhTQjAszo_nfXGWlp6QQ_VRCtxsoq3Y9xhFXw6l75z0MtUgyI-8dz09sa7mDHIClFZ0G=w855-h514-no


AM-JKLXAvQH_kf-f1dmdKeBV2avZI_ibmTdQqf3aO3PaPweSBd4BQrSsnUZMcUXYzwr7RVLUQBQYv9k16GVjrACdVI3SuCOa-EMFEWK70grlCB2ENahGUebpPhjtrSbzNGatrWkZw37JpybPn2k9tNvajyNN=w1016-h665-no
 
I'm working through a few issues which are preventing me from continuing on my design until resolved.

Firstly I cannot find any data on the tube sizes used to build the Merkel Model W lugged frame.

When I scale off of an image based on the known 53" wheelbase I can get a close approximation but not enough to distinguish between 1" and 1 1/8" tubes, or between 1' and 3/4" tubes. I've settled on 1.25" tubes for the main frame for now, but still trying to work out what to use for the forks and the stays. The forks have multiple nested tubes, springs and fittings while the seat stays have nested springs and fittings... oh and that headtube looks like a special cast and machined piece versus being lugged.

It appears that the front forks are vertical to the center plane and close to 100 mm wide at the drop outs. Close enough that I want to try to stick with that if I can make the geometry work with a thru axle with disc hubs and a good rim, disc and tire combination.

That also needs to work with the rear combination. I've settled pretty much on the enviolo sportive in 148mm thru axle with gates carbon drive. BUT I may make two different rear ends so I could use either the sportive or the N171, or any standard IGH. I have a sliding motor spindle design that allows me to alter the beltline a bit, and I have decided to just make my own bottom bracket and crank spindle rather than use an off the shelf fat bike model, again to be able to match beltlines precisely.

So many tires and rims out there it's crazy... but I can't find anything like the Merkel original equipment of 28" single clinch auto style steel rims and choice of 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" tires. Technically, the single engine came with the 2.25 while the twin came with the 2.5s.

I'm soliciting opinions on what options may best mimic the silhouette and that won't break the bank.

I'm leaning towards a 700C 35mm inner diameter e-bike rim

W020-0604_20201014_HTZ_i3529W_77c5ecac-d6b1-4287-9831-1089faacb357_1024x1024.jpg


with a 700-50c Venture dual DNA (tan sidewall) adventure/gravel tire

71SEAx8bOQL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


or a Continental Contact Plus 700-47c (I have the narrower version on my hybrid and like them)

continental-contact-plus-tire.jpg


But maybe a 650b 27.5" with a 2.5 or 2.75 tire?

Or should I say screw it and go really out there with a 29+ size 29" 50 mm wide rim with 3" tire like on the surly krampus? I may be influenced by their ads that say "do it all with a shit eating grin"...

Surly-Krampus-side-Taeblog-600x448.jpg



The frame does not use a standard lug set, and the has more than the standard number of lugs, in addition to a unique crank housing and pivot combined castings that become the chain stays as well as a unique spring fork casting, and fender and fork spreader castings so I will be going with purchased 3D binder jetting printed and sintered castings in a steel alloy.
 
TorontoBuilder said:
I'm going to experiment with a composite rotor that uses a 3D printed PETG core that is reinforced by the back iron, magnet array and epoxy filler as well as a ring around the rim.

...Prior to machining the rotors I'll have first machined a back iron ring from a chunk of low carbon steel, and have glued the magnets and spacers to the back iron using a gluing jig to align and fasten the magnets and magnet spacers to the back iron.
The assembly will be pressed between ground steel plates to assure a tight and level bond with no surface variances.

Once the pocket is finished I can fasten the back iron assembly with some thin slow set epoxy again pressing the rotor face into a ground level steel plate that has been treated with mould release. This will assure smooth plane on the magnet side of the rotor.

AM-JKLV8KPonstAsRq1V4muxSL0nKE421MEkpDP7orZ8ERGMTzythzdMaiF7HfA-jYlvaQHNTSetOQh2cAbWatIv4BWZEJZv40Ue1UdwL5rxMqzn3PuX20Z9r0WTlcpFzTh3pfLMH4w9Yc7qyS1xHRx4C9Wl=w617-h621-no


AM-JKLXA95VD6aZ9WUsw1Mr3REAvxbGRVVYSmjCnxUE4_5FznovPAXcuKhnJAd1nH7eZtuFDKctO_rllZJYz2JhppIC7kenaFn9KeAWHjjZlj42SGRWMPuwNyarkRUf6z3isKth-5GzKmXETYgaS6-EGRPo3=w640-h601-no


AM-JKLXW44opuDY7q3dTTUoznK1LEVPsVQPeYu55-xfCWaeWu435XsETSZL1Ch5666vRJ8nkrYd75nwfnO7yePhVZ0L_WYbwZBnbMlPx5o1PXR3CntIAnJMBB_Kc5LVLI_-HPOGnxU5Fma_NWeN8dRl9uHbD=w651-h623-no


AM-JKLXr4na7kBHIdc2tBhZP-modMgGALG0LbLuR3VknXm__HP6ddLERxx6N2-qSrJG_rCTqn58G5mMZpuR0-Y9AC4Uokyt5jhPVhTlExD9UDlyS9nb7A2N4bgCJP5Nznq_o6YG-GTeVlwvS3UvF8i11sSYT=w571-h615-no

I am going to be experimenting a lot on this motor build to minimize weight, make use of modular design and increase construction simplicity.

Therefore one idea I shall try is to 3D print a two component rotor core complete with integrated back iron and magnet spacer assembly.

The part will be printed in a single pass as a single component, with a brief pause to switch filament types . The back iron will be printed with Stainless Steel 17-4 Filamet™ that contains around 85% metal by mass. To finish this part I merely need to epoxy in the magnets and an aluminum reinforcing ring around the perimeter of the rotor.

17-4 is a magnetic stainless steel and the only low carbon, high percentage metallic filament that I could find presently. I think it will be better than high carbon iron filament. Let me know if you think otherwise please.

AM-JKLWk_ah6rgxRmg4xsE8KQAfKITUZjKYKaqTelieRWLiL6ZKrTVO6TvcNn1yMdNHHhXT4YKrn-l320VuRUgcPcAUF6zeAoBy8HcarHFrlOINVE_uQDfaDiqoqywkLGyvXasl8RyvZWSF_C9mmFsz4w5we=w681-h535-no


I'll also design in detents for aluminum inserts to bolt chainrings or belt cogs to the exterior of the rotor.

I realize that I may have to make an interior hub a middle section with the back iron and then an exterior ring that get bonded together... only know if how to pause a print at a height to swap filament so far. I am trying to see if you can infill voids with clearances when 3D printing with a single nozzle printer.
 
TorontoBuilder said:
I'm working through a few issues which are preventing me from continuing on my design until resolved.

Firstly I cannot find any data on the tube sizes used to build the Merkel Model W lugged frame.

When I scale off of an image based on the known 53" wheelbase I can get a close approximation but not enough to distinguish between 1" and 1 1/8" tubes, or between 1' and 3/4" tubes. I've settled on 1.25" tubes for the main frame for now, but still trying to work out what to use for the forks and the stays. The forks have multiple nested tubes, springs and fittings while the seat stays have nested springs and fittings... oh and that headtube looks like a special cast and machined piece versus being lugged.

It appears that the front forks are vertical to the center plane and close to 100 mm wide at the drop outs. Close enough that I want to try to stick with that if I can make the geometry work with a thru axle with disc hubs and a good rim, disc and tire combination.

That also needs to work with the rear combination. I've settled pretty much on the enviolo sportive in 148mm thru axle with gates carbon drive. BUT I may make two different rear ends so I could use either the sportive or the N171, or any standard IGH. I have a sliding motor spindle design that allows me to alter the beltline a bit, and I have decided to just make my own bottom bracket and crank spindle rather than use an off the shelf fat bike model, again to be able to match beltlines precisely.

So many tires and rims out there it's crazy... but I can't find anything like the Merkel original equipment of 28" single clinch auto style steel rims and choice of 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" tires. Technically, the single engine came with the 2.25 while the twin came with the 2.5s.

I'm soliciting opinions on what options may best mimic the silhouette and that won't break the bank.

I'm leaning towards a 700C 35mm inner diameter e-bike rim

W020-0604_20201014_HTZ_i3529W_77c5ecac-d6b1-4287-9831-1089faacb357_1024x1024.jpg


with a 700-50c Venture dual DNA (tan sidewall) adventure/gravel tire

71SEAx8bOQL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


or a Continental Contact Plus 700-47c (I have the narrower version on my hybrid and like them)

continental-contact-plus-tire.jpg


But maybe a 650b 27.5" with a 2.5 or 2.75 tire?

Or should I say screw it and go really out there with a 29+ size 29" 50 mm wide rim with 3" tire like on the surly krampus? I may be influenced by their ads that say "do it all with a shit eating grin"...

Surly-Krampus-side-Taeblog-600x448.jpg



The frame does not use a standard lug set, and the has more than the standard number of lugs, in addition to a unique crank housing and pivot combined castings that become the chain stays as well as a unique spring fork casting, and fender and fork spreader castings so I will be going with purchased 3D binder jetting printed and sintered castings in a steel alloy.

It's your Build, and Purely my own opinion/perspective.

For what it is worth my eyeball says the frame is 1.25" tubing, with 1.5" connector bosses at pipe joins.

At this stage of the game, they were still oversized, overbuilt bicycles in terms of Specialization.

Transition into Motorcycles as designs in their own right, would not occur for another 10-15 years, to what we more commonly recognize as our motorcycles now. These are the Whizzer's ancestors of the 1950's. Still Motor Bicycles.

I wouldn't get so stuck on Replication. There were a large number of designs existent then, in the first exploratory boom of the motorcycle. HD only came to be, 8 years prior. Up until the 1920's, the 'motor bicycles' were of the same basic design, just variation on construction, engine utilized. They were more Utilitarian, than Style.

I'd recommend getting this book - if you want to explore the influences of function, form over style, and commonality in terms of purpose of design.

https://www.amazon.com/Illustrated-Directory-Classic-American-Motorcycles/dp/0760310505

To minimize your frustration, might i recommend building out in part, using design influences from this era, rather than trying to build a near replica?

They were working with relatively primitive materials, tooling, mechanical processes, compared to us. We aren't limited in technological constraints or parts selections, that they were.

The average Joe isn't going to know one board-track racer, from another. They'll note the vintage appearance in terms of visual Presentation, ascetics. Keep to the Spirit of the design, rather than the Law of Authenticity, might make for a more enjoyable experience. Borrow design elements from other board-track/motor bicycle types of that era. Use modern materials and components, to make it safe. I'd rather default to superior engineering and safety, than just authenticity.

It's funny - i had the desire to do one that was 'retro' influenced - in the gas bike world, originally. It became a gas/ebike retro-hybrid.

20210321_163149.jpg

Go wherever your Creative Flow goes!
 
Thanks again for the feedback. I'm going with main 1.25 tubes and I'll consider more with the influence and less of the exact replica. Maybe I can find a usable rear chainstay pivot and stays that will accommodate a 3" tire to go with 29+

Thanks for the book recommendation, I can get it at my local library.

Thats a cool bike
 
MOTOR DESIGN

I've sort of based this motor design on the 26 pole rotors that APL used on his build, but I've increased the size of the magnets, and the exterior rotor and coil diameter for increased torque. I've diverged from his stator design to instead go with a torus type coil arrangement based on the Lynch and Binova motor designs.

I've chosen a 26 pole 78 slot design. The windings use an integer scheme AA|bb|CC|aa|BB|cc|AA| that repeats itself. The individual coil elements will be die cut from C110 copper sheet 0.08" thick, or 3D printed copper and be ~2 mm thick, by 11 mm wide at the narrowest point, so that each coil element can handle ~27 amps of power. If I understand things right that means each coil winding will be ~27 amps for total of 81 amps current rating. The coil elements without the connection legs will be 17.5 mm wide x 40 mm tall.

So I'm hoping that this means I can push 75 amps at 48 volts thru this motor and develop 3.5 kW of power, or 72 volts and get 5.4 kW.

AM-JKLVlolPakBUrZx4jaYqs9C7ZGbnYUpFuxJRjyBnT5uBVKHaUSrTjRv9c1KmZfXcn12t2Mp8Z4xQY5-EP9Lq-NjdsDvAKvVHmweeYY3fEeOFlBPlQptXcnfsjZnISw-4CHSCg1WgiNjNHqQL_iKhRfI2p=w1085-h474-no


The coil legs are bent to jump forward and backwards so that each alternating coil of the winding is connected... In the example below the dark red coils are connected for clockwise flow of electrons, while the alternating pale red coils flow counter clockwise. However, current first flows thru all the CW coils and then thru the CCW coils.

AM-JKLUImtb0k0uO2oK0YO_g6dBlk0upa1-ECGlpMopA81mwUmKNx78RGy3SkN2eN00-A-I8R7F15vAdcgzw7MTp9LeBOn74_lvbg5jYKpdLFwRp1qUBDRBBuI9-7F9i65PuxVQfaHcJonwWXpt0balpyEpW=w996-h627-no


The B coil windings are shifted one coil to the right of the A coils and are connected in the same manner except the winding starts at a CCW coil and first flows thru all the CCW coils before flowing thru the CW coils.

The C coil windings are shifted two coils to the right of A coils and are connected in the same manner as the A windings.

AM-JKLXjWW7IMnWQKFbmwdT433txsilWPbMYtXx5GsryrGZR0IIm-P_GgUyaKGAulDFMaN_2ZsbIfK-2bhe6yZIryN7-UiUH9v8Wp-1NJyd3ML8vA3pFlb_W4gi-ZcGvKWOzifgdHqERHSAjLMYh3QiDwnsZ=w900-h611-no



AM-JKLXwcPbSsf0-rE3JGUWCnf7TM2lM4_yy5vC0R78ssTXkq8mmcb4R-Zffe6BKhHonvjGQGwRh6fvlxTP1swIE5043rPz3RM_MwQ0NFZo7-xk5mmgtUufFu8FGJq5jyjX5YpelyYQ2rGYEpOLfFg1msB46=w977-h577-no


I have no idea yet of the motor's performance specifications. I'll work on that later.
 
I've settled on gear ratios that seem to work well and will allow me to use identical belt lengths for both the crank and the motor..

On the crank side I'll run a 55 cog front sprocket and a 22 cog rear sprocket. This will allow me to cruise at ~ 25 kph with an okay for me 75 rpm cadence. This combination should also work well with any 3 or 5 speed IGH or a enviolo.

The motor will have a 22 cog sprocket going to a 55 cog sprocket I'll attach to the rear brake caliper mount. At a motor rpm of 1000 I'll have a rear wheel rpm of ~400 and be able to boogie at a decent ~55 kph, not street legal, but then street legal in the Toronto suburbs will get you dead when traffic flows at 70 kph. Not that I intend to ride this on the roads.
 
Mcmaster Carr is so tempting even for those in Canada who need to use a transshipment company, because MC have hard to find items... BUT christ on a cracker, no way am I paying $675.00 USD before shipping for about 30' x 17"x 0.005" of electrical steel required to make laminated stator cores. That amount would not even include enough material to span the coil cores either.

At that cost I can probably order prototype parts from Hoganas' digital metal for less.

I need 40 mm x 36 mm lamination blanks for the outer laminations and 10 mm x 20 mm to punch out laminations for the cores.

I guess I need to look at used transformers or something... it is so hard to get e-waste here though.

The cost to make the blank cutting dies is similar to the cost to make dies to press SMC material for the same purpose.... I can order 50 kg of smc material for $500 bucks plus shipping from Asia. I have a line on another supplier but no idea if they will sell to individuals or in what quantity. I have everything to sinter smc material so there is no cost there.
 
and here is another iteration of the phase coils, I had to make some modifications when I realized that the coil connection I had planned may not work (connecting all the CW coils then all the CCW coils) so now the connections will be wired CW, CCW, CW, CCW.

I also designed the coils to be 3D printed nested together requiring only that the wire connections be made and the coils coated with insulation, OR the coils can to be assembled from individual coil elements stamped from copper sheet and then bent to shape. The stamped version will use 3 different styles of stamped and bent low profile connectors in order to keep everything within a 36 mm wide envelop.

A phase coils

AM-JKLXXS7Rz0upKJmIcTeHA2ihaeu77N9DA-Sk9ENgmrWaP91XG89AomUUxj6CGn2cQZ4w6ui6MTnZv_3atbHyduzMPLcVycxYmujGCFPMIWHhnirim3hvz9gzmXo9d7h_aJBfu9LTeEXL2fElbiIE6NJBH=w1104-h595-no


B phase coils

AM-JKLWTDlH3PldGGExklHF3yvWHHdYbTdEwvk1ezi2bSyqEGdnGySATXBW3UhltVlvJcWCwVhz209s2jc4LVvPnxT3afe7wzMsr4koS5g4N4MShrLK5v1ueyEtYIinpQochJRE-ARWG_EVl6Uh4OhsgwvPx=w1132-h627-no


C phase coils

AM-JKLUuit5uu-jp-_InVUJEkjtngDoGaQCzo5yO5dspoamcbsf79sdgpSjzQIv_kCOFBav5owJRIfdLiWY3XfIKJz0XoxNJEZ4iQncmvEzo9KbmyQMBER2-WlT1Audhd3TW5LqXUS9zW2EcWFgSryR60RbB=w1144-h629-no


All 3 phase coils

AM-JKLWE1fvd068fZKfWMOQQVRjtB2XWIpYtmw4UsecU_SS-_xrGHiA0WqpBBBK38xOizX9BlGHbUHVxDZaXvMalIiVUCvq7pgvTEQ2mYgdEZssdWinOVgXh_xdCbXfLWogfmnibW5DxBc2yzm7a8O1mWR9B=w1028-h604-no


Connector example

AM-JKLUR880INeuomcpCT3ODEGKpffkbyy4DmzEp0U-2kPhoKRg0Q8k4MVFemZTsadYckBWtMAyJNlYibaL-I6nutZYQlEa8doL2Kfbl6MylePT7hiY5H_DTgCeni8f7DOCHzctjiiMNWNyqgRu79f0EHolp=w850-h554-no


I've sent a 3D file to a service bureau to see how much Binder jetting would cost... meanwhile I am going to start designing the dies to stamp these parts.

Yeah, this wont be a fast build.

I want to get the motor built before working on a frame.

I have a lot of projects ahead of this build too. My brother and I just ordered a 3 phase motor and VFD to convert our lathe from single phase single speed. That will overcome so limits we had with our gearbox.

I've also ordered 3D printer that I need to start pushing filament thru and learning. The good thing is I will have a few jigs to build the motor to practice printing on.

Then I have to start practicing tig welding in case I want to do that versus brazing and silver soldering I am very practiced with.
 
Wow TorontoBuilder, super ambitious build! :thumb:

A lot of good thinking going on here, and the best of luck. You might have a better time building the frame first though,
side car next, and adapt a temporary off the shelf motor to be replaced with your own latter on.
That way you can get some wind in your hair faster. :)

Frames are cut and dry, but motors, well, they have a way of messing with you... :lol:
(Also I would maybe move the motor build into the Motor technology section where there's more help.)

As far as the electrical steel goes, I've been looking for two years now, and have had little success for the small amounts
that builders want. It really hinges on the terminology used in asking,.. silicon steel, transformer steel, electrical, GOND,
bla, bla,.. will make all the difference sometimes.

There is a great source on E bay though, some giant E-I transformer segments for cheap. This guy has 30 -40 lb lots for
$50 - $100. It's not all that thin, I think .030" but I'm not sure, but there it is either way. Good to have around for back
too maybe.

Again, you can look all day on the bay and not find it unless you ask just right.

Ebay steel:https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TRANSFORMER-LAMINATION-EI-2625FR-29-GA-M6/224229761933?hash=item343522a38d:g:S-EAAOSwmyNfqxzN
 
APL said:
You might have a better time building the frame first though,
side car next, and adapt a temporary off the shelf motor to be replaced with your own latter on.
That way you can get some wind in your hair faster. :)

There is a great source on E bay though, some giant E-I transformer segments for cheap. This guy has 30 -40 lb lots for
$50 - $100. It's not all that thin, I think .030" but I'm not sure, but there it is either way. Good to have around for back
too maybe.

Ebay steel:https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TRANSFORMER-LAMINATION-EI-2625FR-29-GA-M6/224229761933?hash=item343522a38d:g:S-EAAOSwmyNfqxzN

You make a compelling argument... bike first, with an off the shelf outrunner from alien power connected to the rear drive I plan to use for the final motor, that way it wont eff with the belt lines. Who needs pedals or cranks, just a throttle and a motor.

This is what I normally see when I search US fleabay:

AM-JKLWw5wklzd-nChACpapY2D93MKiugEieCg4XLBqhmDHSIw_dwssAbzJOT1XUNzvS8I-0CzEleccg1Tj6aMA2exU3b_XV-t4cUebXvUx6ZB5btSUQPBpKjQhC1a116iC83QuvdfmO-uEgj1ZsSR4NUCCj=w1157-h559-no


I'll have to ask him how many laminations this is made up of, and how many pieces approximately to see if it is worth buying and transshipping via a third party
 
The original wheels as you mention were 28" wheels which were the most popular adult size wheel diameter of the era. So my vote would be to use an i45 WTB 700c rim with a 2.5/6 tire to re-create the original look. The wider rim would square off the profile of the tire as it looks like to me in the picture? Set up tubeless you could also run pretty low psi to help enhance the ride quality and traction.

You might comb through Paragon Machine Works website to see what they have on offer that you could use for frame parts?
 
Back
Top