This is a build I started last year, but ended up stopping till I found a motor that would pretty much keep my bike intact. That build ended evolving into a Cyclone motor on an old solid frame bike, soon to evolve yet again into a Tidal Force frame with front suspension.viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6348
I really enjoyed riding this bike in its original form and didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t really want to modify it, unless it was an enhancement. It took me a while to pick out the motor, since I needed a motor with lots of torque for hill climbing. When I heard about the 1000watt BMC motor, I waited for it. But the reports I kept hearing didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t sit well with me. From what I could decipher, the 1000w motor only comes alive if you put more than 48 volts. If you donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t plan to run such a high voltage setup, there is very little difference between the 600watt and the 1000watt. My plan was to run it at 36volt to 40 volts. It's really due to the amount of batteries I can fit in the triangle portion of the bike. The other thing I heard was, controllers were having a hard time with the 1000watt motor. The current recommended controller is the Kelly that alone turned me off on the motor since I wanted a compact and light setup for the trails. Another thing, is the gears are the same for both motors. I was thinking the 1000watt would be more durable, but that is not the case. My over all goal is to keep the bike under 50lbs. I wanted 40, but it didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t look possible.
I finally got my BMC motor. It's the 600 watt torque version. The phase wires look too thin, so I plan to beef them up, once I check everything out. I'm disappointed with the wheel build. It was not dished properly. Actually it was not dished at all! This is a common thing that bike shops do for rear tires. I picked up the wheel from Ilia; He needs to get a better wheel builder. Looks like I will have to find a place local to redo it. I was hoping I didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t have to deal with this part of the build. Has anyone done there own dishing, how difficult is it? Here are pictures of the wheel mounted on the bike. You can see the wheel is not centered and is off to the left a noticeable amount. This is really unacceptable, the spokes also seem like they are not tensioned enough. My original wheel has a higher pitch.
Here are picture of the cycle analyst, the 35amp/72 volt crystalyte controller and my CNC battery tray. I will anodize it black once the parts are finalized. The controller will be mounted below the batteries. Trying to keep the weight close to the center of the bike. I originally was going with A123's but thanks to Doctorbass, I have 2 sets of konions for this bike. The cool, thing is the battery tray I plan to build will allow me to swap out packs. This means I can make a custom A123 pack as well. If I add a rear rack, I can set it up for long distance as well as speed. For now I'm focused on keeping it light for trail riding.