Hub Motor Wheel Building Basics - Video

Only a single man has bike surgery going on in the kitchen :lol:
 
doc007 said:
I'm really enjoying these type of vids. Please keep them coming.
Click to expand...

Cool ! any suggestions for others ? .. I want to make a part 2 of this to show the actual spoking and trueing part ( youtube only allows 10 min per vid so cramming alot of into into 10 is not easy . )

TPA said:
Only a single man has bike surgery going on in the kitchen :lol:
Click to expand...

Right ! :wink:

I keep an eye out, but damn it's a rare thing to find a good woman who can solder, love to bike, and enjoy playing with battery powered things.. hmm.. that would make an interesting " Looking for " ad. :eek:
 
Ypedal said:
Cool ! any suggestions for others ? .. I want to make a part 2 of this to show the actual spoking and trueing part ( youtube only allows 10 min per vid so cramming alot of into into 10 is not easy . )
Click to expand...

I think you have the right idea... "Bike building basic's Ypedal/Endlessphere style"

...building a hub motor into a wheel using fat 12 gauge spokes (check)

other vids that cover:

...disc brake caliper modifications to make it work the hub motor

...modding the hub motor with lower gauge wires

...routing and hooking up wiring to 72 volts

...modding a Magura throttle

...fixing your broken half twist throttle

...making Cree headlights/brake lights

...battery building

...battery charging

...battery safety

would be very cool :D
 
Nice timing, I just bent the dog doo doo out of my dirtbike motor rim this afternoon. Time to lace up a new rim on it. And yes, the spares I bought awhile back do have eyelets.
 
Ypedal: Great video! I don't have to respoke my 9C yet, but one day I guess I probably will.

Any tips on how to correctly dish a rear wheel for something like the 9C (the old models, I guess the new models don't require dishing?). Is it as simple as just tightening up all of the spokes on one side first until the hub has been pulled to one side of the rim? (along the wheel rotation axis).

Another question, which is more important, since I am actually doing this now: Is there any proper way to tighten the spokes after the inital breakin period? I have been doing a procedure where if I find a loose spoke I tighten it a little, then tighten the two spokes behind it a little, then rotate the wheel 180 and do the same thing to the opposite spokes. My newbie theory is this would keep the motor centered and also keep the wheel from being wobbly side to side.
 
i think you're going to need lipo on that screwdriver of yours... :twisted:

Lol nice video, thanks Y
 
KTP, thanks, and regarding maintenance on a wheel if it's good and wobble free ( up, down, left, right ) i usually start at the valve hole as a point of reference and give all spokes a 1/4 to half turn, then, if the wheel is still straight, i use a guitar pick to strum each spoke and listen for seriously out of tune one's that i tighten as required.

Basically, you want the spokes as tight as you can get them without stripping the nipples or cracking the rim, and using thick spokes you can crack a rim with too much tension.. be carefull..

If you grab pairs of spokes and squeeze them, they should flex but only a little bit, another video would be helpful to explain how much flex i'm talking about ( will work on that this weekend of possible )
 
The spokes are reasonably tight now, no twanging noise when going over small bumps like it was doing.

The thing that concerns me a bit is the wheel is not centered in the rear fork. It is probably 1/4" to 3/8" off to one side (the side without the freewheel). I guess it is safe to ride like this? The 2 inch specialized armadillo tire clears the fork by about 1/8" on the left side and about 1/2" on the right side (the chain side). I don't know if I should try and change the dishing somehow or if I should just follow the "if it an't broke, don't fix it" line of thought. I *think* I could move the wheel by working my way around loosening two spokes on one side and tightening the two inbetween those...this seems to make sense to me...
 
The 9C spoke flanges are so narrow that it's nearly impossible to adjust spokes for any amount of dish ( it can be done but not much ) .. best suggestion is to add a washer or spacer inside the frame on the left side to compensate, most frames will easily strech a few mm to allow this.
 
excellent video Ypedal!
Just finished lacing a wheel with black 13G spokes.
 

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Ypedal said:
The 9C spoke flanges are so narrow that it's nearly impossible to adjust spokes for any amount of dish ( it can be done but not much ) ..
Click to expand...
I wonder if it would be possible to machine some rings that would bolt to the existing spoke flanges (via holes drilled thru both ring and flange), that would "extend" the flanges outward some distance, to give more lateral stiffness to the wheel? Or if it would even have that effect?

Additonally, the spoke holes n the adapter flanges could be made for smaller gauge spokes, to make truing and tensioning simpler.
 
I'm told you can bring all the spokes out of the same side of the flange and this can in effect will allow the rim to be offset a little. I've not personally done this but I've seen this technique used where the the caliper is liable to catch a spoke or the flange positions doesn't allow the rim to be properly centred. A washer as Ypedal suggests is definitely the simpler and quicker solution though :)
 
As someone recently pointed out in another thread about spokes, bringing them all out on the same side will probably weaken the wheel, as the tension from opposite-pulling spokes will not be passed from one to the other that way, via the bend at the cross. Not something I had ever thougth about until it was pointed out, but it makes sense.
 
That's...interesting. :) I guess it obviates the need for correct spoke lengths. :lol:

Maybe I'll use that method, too. How did you twist them up to keep them tight?
 
this bike is heavy 4X 20ah sla with a all steel frame. plus the 9c hub motor. hit potholes big enough to bend the seat post still the rims keep going :mrgreen:
plus me 210lb i get a lot of exercise carrying this beast up a flight of stairs 5 or 6 times a day :wink: heh and before anyone asks that's not in fat :)
 
So it's almost surely comparable to an unloaded DayGlo Avenger (which is maybe 80lbs unloaded). Probably not quite CrazyBike2 weight (~150lbs unloaded).

No rear suspension, right?


If I use spokes from a 700c wheel off an OTS, I could probably use this method to lace up a regular hub to a 26" rim, and see how well it works with DayGlo Avenger, which has broken spokes almost as frequently as CrazyBike2, when DGA is loaded up with cargo. I have a few OTS wheels that have rusty rims but apparently stainless spokes that should work for this.

I can try it on CB2 later, too, or the new cargo bike (nameless so far).
 
I'm not sure they are stainless, could just be zinc plated, but they have no rust on them while the hub and the rim both do. :)
 
this might also be a good idea.

draht1.jpg


i definitely gonna do this when i build my next wheel.
 
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