Your Creation's Before & After Pics

[Marc S.]

6Wh/km @ 60 kph !! Cx is everything...

On open roads without frequent traffic lights, I think its closer to 5.8 or 5.9Wh/km and it currently got a relatively slowish tire at the rear wheel (Big Ben 50-559). I have to do some further testing, but with some light pedaling (75W), 3.3Wh/km @ 40km/h, 4.5Wh/km @ 50km/h and 6Wh/km @ 60km/h isn't far from the truth. If the road goes ever so slightly downhill, it gets even more ridiculous.

What is its weight ?

About 38.5kg without battery, but with hood. I can fit three, used, 20s battery packs behind the seat, that together have roughly 2kWh capacity left and weight 5kg each. With tool bag, big Abus U-Lock, water bottles, two Radical velomobile bags with some stuff, it should weight close to 60kg. With one battery and about 120km battery range, close to 50kg.
Its an old, glass fiber, Mk2 version that should have weighted about 32.5kg (I forgot to put it on a scale before tearing it apart). The current, carbon fiber, Mk4 version weights 25kg.

[darryl64]

first two bikes

[Jil]

Thanks Marc. Impressive bike !

[Wolfeman]

Before....

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After.....

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[Monkeypowah]

Bought the bike for £400.
Fitted the rear geared hub wheel off my broken frame bike, running back pack battery.
Its a ten year old DH bike ,Commencal Superteam.
Fitted controller and backup on frame 5ah 48v battery

[amberwolf]

The fatbike fork was badly made of soft metal.
Before riding on it

After riding on it for a couple weeks(?)

Presumably the braking forces (even though I never braked hard during any of the commuting) slowly bent it backwards...and the motor isn't hooked up to anything yet.

So I used some clamps Chalo sent and built a tripleclamp fork out of old bike frame tubing, and the lowers off a crappy "suspension" fork, minus all the internals. It works way better, though it only has a regular bike wheel in it, as the clamps are only normal fork width, and I haven't built the modules to offset the dropouts from the fork legs enough for the rear hubmotor to fit in it.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1467045

[thundercamel]

Pictures can be opened as a new tab for full resolution.
Both bikes before:


My wife's StefEbike v1:


v1.5:


v2:


My bike:


and I later tucked the motor controller in the bag as well, and got new tires:

[dequinox]

Ooh i like that, nice and simple, and clean looking!

Before....

After.....

[ProStock]

This is my commute bike that i built in 2014 still running strong today after 12.000 km
Specs:
Leaf Motor 1500W
powervelocity 4Kw Sinewave BT controller
Cycle Analyst v3
Batt 58.8V Panasonic PF18650 14/S 8/P
KHZ 5000 Carbon fiber front fork Component SRAM & RaceFace

[morganw]

2004 Santa Cruz Blur from Craigslist with Grin GMAC 10T kit w/ 52V 16.5A Hailong battery, Phaserunner & Sempu torque sensing bottom bracket.

Was going to buy a BikesDirect HAL5, one of the last full suspension bikes without thru axles in the back, but an e-s'er convinced me to keep checking Craigslist. This bike has a a non-tapered head tube, 68mm bottom bracket and quick release front & rear. 160mm rotors & 180mm is the max with I.S. tabs, but I think it needs bleeding and new pads more than bigger rotors.

Wasn't sure about chainline & BB spindle length, so bought a 115mm Shimano to try before ordering the Sempu. Didn't realize front derailleur was set up for 47.5mm chainline with original Hollowtech II/Octalink crankset. FSA Dyna Drive puts chainwheels at about 50mm, so since I can't get a torque BB in 110mm, I installed a Problem Solvers direct mount adapter made for Boost which is 3mm further outboard than their regular adapter (29mm vs 26).

Put 100 miles on it so far. If Sempu keeps giving me trouble, I'm going to try powering it directly from the battery. If that fails, I'll try a TDCM.

Suspension was set up for a 175 lb. person. I'm 230, but I set it up with 200 psi rear & 100 front so I get a little more sag & plushiness at the expense of bottoming out on big hits, but I'm riding on roads not trails, so I think I'll be OK.

[Wolfeman]

Very cool Morganw. Nice build.

[docw009]

This is a cheapo ebike converted to hopefully a nicer ebike. Started as an impulse buy of a 20" folding fatbike on amazon for $679. It was supposed to be a white one, so I got a $75 rebate rather than force the seller to ship a new one.

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It's a 500W motor with 36V battery. 810LED display with 3 level PAS. I own a 26" fatbike, and expected this to be tiny, but the wheels were almost 24" in diameter. That's too big and the bike really isn't meant for off road at 60+ pounds.

Smaller tires for $80. Paint. Swapped in an air suspension fork for $120.

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It was intended for my wife, who won't ride it. Says it looks like something the Gestapo would ride. I don't like it that much either, because it's 60+ pounds. I can feel it with pedal assist. My 26" fatbike weighs less.

Maybe I should put a POLIZEI plaque on the front fender. I do plan to change out the controller. Put in a PSWpower sinewave model to give a better feel for pedal assist.

[rootshell]

Below are the B&A pics of my project.

Grabbed an old 90's Schwinn, stripped it down and built it back up.

Total project cost was a little over $800.

1000W rear hub with EM3ev 52V (14S4P) Super Shark Ebike Battery.

Progress thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100409&start=100

[Chopcat]

Very cool Morganw. Nice build.

Nice one.
I found that having access to the higher gears was not necessary on my build once you have power assisting you.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=100917.
In fact i lost the front gear selector and only use the bigger chainring. So the bottom bracket issue might not such a problem.

[morganw]

I found that having access to the higher gears was not necessary on my build once you have power assisting you.

I only need high-ish gears. With my 6'3" sitting upright in the wind, I need to add 100-200W to the motor's 750 to get from 20 & a bit MPH up above 25MPH. For helping the motor starting from a stop on a flat, the big ring with the next-to-lowest or next in the back (cross-chaining, yes) is good. I could go 1x, but I wanted to stick to the spirit of "fully operable pedals" by keeping the full 3x9 drivetrain working. I live in a flat area, but if the assist fails, it'll be nice to have the middle ring for limping home.

In your build thread, you mentioned that you needed to set your Sempu backwards from the CA default. I do get negative power readings sometimes, but also forward sometimes. I thought it might be the issue of the CA's 10V regulator hitting a current limit with high drain accessories with high battery voltage (I have 14s Li-Ion), but it sounds like that causes the CA to brown out & drop the 5V rail until the CPU crashes. If that's the case, switching the Sempu from 10V to direct from the battery wouldn't help any.

[Chopcat]

Out of interest would adding an annalogger be the way to look at all the signals to diagnose the issue. I find mine varies the output when pedalling at a constant speed and effort. You can be going along at 300W and then suddenly up to 900W and then back again and i cant quite diagnose what the cause might be.

[morganw]

Out of interest would adding an annalogger be the way to look at all the signals to diagnose the issue. I find mine varies the output when pedalling at a constant speed and effort. You can be going along at 300W and then suddenly up to 900W and then back again and i cant quite diagnose what the cause might be.

I have an Analogger & I'm not seeing anything helpful. It only logs human power and RPM, not raw voltage from the torque sensor or computed Nm torque. Here's a trip where I only pedaled for a hill & getting away from stops. The hill is from 0.711 to 1.152 km. Edit: the Analogger has two extra analog inputs that can be logged, so if we didn't already know some Sempus are faulty (see below), this would be a way to see the voltage dropping to zero or spiking high.

One thing about the Sempu is that it measures all strain on the spindle, not torque applied to the chain, so standing while pedaling or mashing jerkily can show some weird numbers. It's also quite noisy and the no-torque value seems to drift around, so sometimes it's over 1.6V after I re-set the zero at say 1.52V and just spinning with no force will give me nearly 100W.

Edit: Justin posted that there was a bad batch of Sempus & they're trying to get replacements to send out.

[SOLO 12]

Schwinn Stingray Spoiler

battery:2.88kw\h (60V, 48Ah), LG Chim.
Мotor - DD 3kw
controller: up to 8kw - http://wiki.nucular.tech/ru:start

[SOLO 12]

in General, it turned out a powerful device

[amberwolf]

Начало

What?

Sorry, but there's almost no one here that can read cyrillic. Almost everyone here can at least read English, so I would recommend translating whatever you post into English if you want them to know what you're saying.

[SOLO 12]

Начало

What?

Sorry, but there's almost no one here that can read cyrillic. Almost everyone here can at least read English, so I would recommend translating whatever you post into English if you want them to know what you're saying.

ок

[mike425]

My Bafang Ultra commuter bike, started with an old frame and modified it. The full build is really rough but the bike hasn't skipped a beat..

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[KalistoBG]

some pic of my last build
former Fatbike 26"
controller 48-72v 50amp moded to be near 28amp
batt. in backpack bag 22.5amp 54.6v 13s 3p it looks scarry but i havent been arrested..... YET
hub motor 2kw 2x the phase leads inside the motor removed sensor wires for space in the cable channel
did try cables for delta nice speed slow /weak/ start ,nice for small dia. tires ,not good for now
motor tires 16" ~130/70
50km\h on flat road

greetings from Bulgaria /EU/

[redmouse]

some pic of my last build

I like it! Regular frame and small wheels looking good!
That rear wheel is gangsta af Does it stay true? Any plans to do proper spokes? Where is a good source for custom spokes?

[KalistoBG]

i did the spokes just for test but i managed to make it kind of true sooo temporary solution is the best solution ... if works dont touch it
original spokes for hub motor are super expensive and diff to find proper lenght thats why normaly i make my own spokes
normaly i use bike spokes and cut them to size and make a knot over the spokes where the end of the spoke must be over the hub motor hole and its working fine you cant torn the spoke verry easy =]

i welded the hub motor on 2 sides with metal pieces and tight them to the frame and that is to stop the motor from spin inside the dropout of the frame the nuts are pushing inside out to the frame
the back of the frame was to wide for this hub motor