Hyena wrote:Keep in mind that once the axle slot is damaged fitting a brand new motor won't solve the issue and if there's any play at all that allows the axle to rock on regen it will chew out even worse and/or break the stronger axle.
Theodore Voltaire wrote:I discovered what I was doing wrong was using a small allen wrench to tighten the bolt on the torque clamp. You can't get enough torque on the clamp bolt by hand with a little 6 inch allen wrench. You need at least 15 ft lbs on the bolt, but most people won't be able to get more than about 12 ft lbs by hand. The solution is to use a torque wrench, because 15ft lb is close to the maximum amount you can put on the clamp without stripping it out.
Even after tightening it all down properly the right side axle bolt will stay tight, but the left side axle bolt will loosen a little over time, but not nearly like before, and it isn't really a problem if you check it every week of so. I think the axle probably flexes slightly which allows the right axle nut to eventually loosen a little.
Striping the axle is a different story. You strip your axle when you over tighten the axle bolts trying to stop them from coming loose. Thou shalt not tighten axle bolts more than 30 ft lbs of torque, or may lightening bolts rain down from the heavens on yo head.
Hyena wrote:Regen is well documented to be hard on axles and loosen nuts if not properly checked and tensioned and you set out knowing yours was damaged and used it anyway. If it ripped off the bike like that it was either so badly damaged you shouldn't have even considered taking it out and/or you would have felt it clunking and rocking around prior to that.
1abv wrote:Anytime I take off any nylock nut I replace it with a new one.
1abv wrote: I use regen but only on paved downhills never in dirt
Rix wrote:Use a torque wrench and don't exceed 45nm on your axle nuts. Always tighten the disk brake side axle nut first. When you tighten the disk brake side first, you rock the axle in the direction that it wants to move/rotate under power thus eliminating any freeplay between the axle flat, dropout, and torque block when you get on the throttle.
Stand out advice...I mean it when I say good luck CD! Hopefully we can read about some positive stuff soon.fsmuggen wrote:Stupid to risk the hubmotor falling off at high speeds.
If it falls off..., it might be the one and only time...
The dropout was designed prior to the implementation of regen. The torque clamp/block permanently solved these regen issues for me on both the Bomber and Fighter.If the drop-out design is so splendid, why does it need the clamping block added?