E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Hyena]

Stealth planes have model names like Spirit, Nighthawk and Lightning. Also Raptor, but I'd bet a small fortune it wont be that Lightning would be especially appropriate but it feels like that should go to a faster model. Likewise nighthawk sounds particularly badass but again maybe should be a stronger model. I suspect from the frame size, less chunky tyres and previous comments about it being a daily rider it's going it's to be lower powered and possibly street focused (though still dual suspension as per that teaser) The previous teaser pic showed a roughly blanked out frame that looked like it had no rear hub prompting mid drive speculation but you could possibly tuck a geared motor in behind the blanked out area. I suspect being lighter duty we'll see a return to single crown forks too. The USD-6s I've been using on my beta builds would be perfect. So, with all of that said if it is a smaller, lower powered model and if we're sticking with the plane names I think Spirit would be the most appropriate name for it. But I could be way off, much like Jon Snow, I know nothing.

[Allex]

Yeah, I can def. spot geared Hubbie on the first picture. Probably a 1.5-2kW setup.

[Theodore Voltaire]

In honor of it being made in Australia name it a Stealth, Sabre

[The fingers]

Spitfire.

On second thought, maybe not a good choice.

[FL bomber]

Well I think it's time to start looking for replacement battery, on my commute to work I've been hitting lvc at only 12 and a half amp hours used if I hit throttle hard. It's happened to me 3 times this week. Is this normal, I have 2013 bomber.. if you hit lvc don't slow down just hit your regen button ..bike will kick back on so you can finish your ride a bit slower... better than push walking.

[Cowardlyduck]

Well I think it's time to start looking for replacement battery, on my commute to work I've been hitting lvc at only 12 and a half amp hours used if I hit throttle hard. It's happened to me 3 times this week. Is this normal, I have 2013 bomber.. if you hit lvc don't slow down just hit your regen button ..bike will kick back on so you can finish your ride a bit slower... better than push walking.

This is a familiar story unfortunately.
As for normal....well, is it what Stealth and the battery manufacturers say is normal...no.
Is it what myself and numerous other have experienced...yes.
So take away from that what you want, but it seems like when you actually use the stock batteries on a near daily basis, you can actually encounter issues a lot sooner than you would think.
My first pack was completely replaced, then my second pack was 'repaired' under warranty 3 or 4 times. Now it's sitting at around 500 cycles and hits LVC at around 13-15AH depending on how hard I ride.
Currently my stock pack is sitting on the shelf unused since about 6 months. I'm thinking of putting it to use on my electric lawn mower at some stage.

Cheers

[Theodore Voltaire]

Well I think it's time to start looking for replacement battery, on my commute to work I've been hitting lvc at only 12 and a half amp hours used if I hit throttle hard. It's happened to me 3 times this week. Is this normal, I have 2013 bomber.. if you hit lvc don't slow down just hit your regen button ..bike will kick back on so you can finish your ride a bit slower... better than push walking.

I have a 2013 Bomber with close to 10,000 miles. I'm still getting to about 16 1/2 ah with good power, and reduced power from there until it's out of gas about 17 1/2 ah. Mine has a little less power in the winter time.

[QuietRush]

https://www.facebook.com/StealthElectri ... =3&theater

For those of us that follow Stealth on FB, they have been dropping hints of a new model coming out soon. There is a guessing game about the name of the next model. Being that Stealth has a history of name their machines after aircraft such as the Bomber and Fighter, I figured the next model will also be an aircraft. I was thinking the Hornet, but I was told that wasn't it. Anybody got any ideas what the next model is called? Judging from the shadow picture, it looks very similar to a Beta size type frame, but I just don't know.

Considering the move away from Bomber, Fighter, Hurricane to B-52, H-52, F-37 due to some likely trademark overlaps I'm leaning more towards a new model designation, am equally in the dark about it..But I'll lean towards F-22 as a wild stab in the dark..

[Theodore Voltaire]

F22 makes sense to me. I still like Sabre better though, it sounds more colorful.

[Stealth_Rider]

Well I think it's time to start looking for replacement battery, on my commute to work I've been hitting lvc at only 12 and a half amp hours used if I hit throttle hard. It's happened to me 3 times this week. Is this normal, I have 2013 bomber.. if you hit lvc don't slow down just hit your regen button ..bike will kick back on so you can finish your ride a bit slower... better than push walking.

Contact Allex by PM and ask him to build you a pack like I had on my #065 Bomber.
http://www.fareinc.com/Alex-Bomber-Battery/

Should fit in your 2013 with no problem.

Jim

[Emmett]

Before and after photos.

Before: Fighter controller, 19x1.6 rim, VRM-021 tyre, H4040 motor (yes it really is), stock 59V battery, 100ml castor oil in the hub, Tubliss system. My custom shock and forks. Very good, but it got a lot better ...



After: Bomber controller (no DC-1 restriction), SR241 tyre, Tubliss, short 140mm cranks, sealed CrMo freewheel sprocket, 18S2P LiPo batteries (75V charged, 150% range and lighter weight (thanks CD)). Hubsink. Axle clamp glued to the axle. All hub wires routed on the top of the swingarm. Fine strand flexible and durable 14 AWG phase wires with thick silicone insulation.



This latest rear wheel and tyre setup is so much better. Superior grip. It grabs the ground and it quite gentle to trails. Way better rim protection from direct and side impacts. Running 15 PSI now and less rim hits than with 18PSI and the older smaller tyre. It weighs a bit more. Forget how much. But the ride quality and performance is way better. Love it.

[Emmett]

Hot around here last month. A few nights never below 30C. Often over 40C at day. Made night riding essential. I really like it. Just me and the animals out there. Maybe some big cats and aliens too I guess. So figgin dark if there is no moon out. If I go too late there are lot of big orb spiders web out there. They don't normally bite, but it really tests my brakes and skills to try avoid the actual spider. Their webs are pretty strong too. Bastards get on me sometimes. I hate it. But all they want is a feed and to breed so it's hard to get angry at them. So many insects around lately. Lots of decent sizes roos too. Not those muscly ripped ones that want a fight, but big enough to get my brakes nice and hot. Those mongrels are so unpredictable. Scare the shit out of me sometimes. I often hear them before I see them.

I went over the bars on a night ride last week. Downhill speed chute trail and didn't see a kicker rock until too late. Need an extra head light. I got a bit beaten up to my shoulder and thigh, but had my motoXvest on and it saved me again since I landed on my own handlebar end to my chest at decent pace. Knee guards and gloves worked great too. Bike front end got twisted up but only significant bike damage was a swingarm dent. My plastic pedals are real tough and my cranks are way stronger than the stockers.

I think the biggest performance limiting part of my bike now is the lateral chassis flex. It's pretty easy to feel the bike getting a bit erratic when targeting narrow lines at pace. Some new fork bushings might help. The softer rear tyre setup has helped a lot. In any case the fun factor is off the charts.

[Theodore Voltaire]

Well I think it's time to start looking for replacement battery, on my commute to work I've been hitting lvc at only 12 and a half amp hours used if I hit throttle hard. It's happened to me 3 times this week. Is this normal, I have 2013 bomber.. if you hit lvc don't slow down just hit your regen button ..bike will kick back on so you can finish your ride a bit slower... better than push walking.

Contact Allex by PM and ask him to build you a pack like I had on my #065 Bomber.
http://www.fareinc.com/Alex-Bomber-Battery/

Should fit in your 2013 with no problem.

Jim

I like that a lot. Were able to use the stock controller?

[Rix]

https://www.facebook.com/StealthElectri ... =3&theater

For those of us that follow Stealth on FB, they have been dropping hints of a new model coming out soon. There is a guessing game about the name of the next model. Being that Stealth has a history of name their machines after aircraft such as the Bomber and Fighter, I figured the next model will also be an aircraft. I was thinking the Hornet, but I was told that wasn't it. Anybody got any ideas what the next model is called? Judging from the shadow picture, it looks very similar to a Beta size type frame, but I just don't know.

Considering the move away from Bomber, Fighter, Hurricane to B-52, H-52, F-37 due to some likely trademark overlaps I'm leaning more towards a new model designation, am equally in the dark about it..But I'll lean towards F-22 as a wild stab in the dark..

That does make sense, I think we are all in the dark on this one. I reached out to the US Stealth guys, even they don't know. I was told there was something literally in a room behind a door..lock and key at Stealth HQ, so it possible may be not even all the Stealth HQ employees know.

[Rix]

Before and after photos.

Before: Fighter controller, VRM-021 tyre, H4040 motor (yes it really is), stock 59V battery, 100ml caster oil in the hub, Tubliss system. My custom shock and forks. Very good, but it got a lot better ...


After: Bomber controller (no DC-1 restriction), SR241 tyre, Tubliss, short 140mm cranks, sealed CrMo freewheel sprocket, 18S2P LiPo batteries (75V charged, 150% range and lighter (thanks CD)). Hubsink. Axle clamp glued to the axle. All hub wires routed on the top of the swingarm. Fine strand flexible and durable 14 AWG phase wires with thick silicone insulation.


This latest rear wheel and tyre setup is so much better. Superior grip. It grabs the ground and it quite gentle to trails. Way better rim protection from direct and side impacts. Running 15 PSI now and less rim hits than with 18PSI and the older smaller tyre. It weighs a bit more. Forget how much. But the ride quality and performance is way better. Love it.

Hell of a write up Emmett. Glad you are happy with your mods. That 4040 with the 18S will scoot right along up to about 30-33MPH I imagine. When are you going to get into making some vids?

[QuietRush]

Before and after photos.

Before: Fighter controller, VRM-021 tyre, H4040 motor (yes it really is), stock 59V battery, 100ml caster oil in the hub, Tubliss system. My custom shock and forks. Very good, but it got a lot better ...


After: Bomber controller (no DC-1 restriction), SR241 tyre, Tubliss, short 140mm cranks, sealed CrMo freewheel sprocket, 18S2P LiPo batteries (75V charged, 150% range and lighter (thanks CD)). Hubsink. Axle clamp glued to the axle. All hub wires routed on the top of the swingarm. Fine strand flexible and durable 14 AWG phase wires with thick silicone insulation.


This latest rear wheel and tyre setup is so much better. Superior grip. It grabs the ground and it quite gentle to trails. Way better rim protection from direct and side impacts. Running 15 PSI now and less rim hits than with 18PSI and the older smaller tyre. It weighs a bit more. Forget how much. But the ride quality and performance is way better. Love it.

Hell of a write up Emmett. Glad you are happy with your mods. That 4040 with the 18S will scoot right along up to about 30-33MPH I imagine. When are you going to get into making some vids?

+1 from me. Good work. Sounds like we ought to line up a ride and I'll bring some cameras..I've hit similar heat here on Central Coast, but the great thing about the eBike is that your exertion level is lower than normal pedalling, if you're prepared to use the throttle on a hot today for the sake of a little personal comfort.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPW-atPhCei ... ughingmind

[Stealth_Rider]

Well I think it's time to start looking for replacement battery, on my commute to work I've been hitting lvc at only 12 and a half amp hours used if I hit throttle hard. It's happened to me 3 times this week. Is this normal, I have 2013 bomber.. if you hit lvc don't slow down just hit your regen button ..bike will kick back on so you can finish your ride a bit slower... better than push walking.

Contact Allex by PM and ask him to build you a pack like I had on my #065 Bomber.
http://www.fareinc.com/Alex-Bomber-Battery/

Should fit in your 2013 with no problem.

Jim

I like that a lot. Were able to use the stock controller?

TV,

The stock controller worked perfectly, no changes needed. The same charger you use now will also work since the max charge voltage for the Alex pack is 88.2 V.

I switched to the Grin Technologies Satiator charger (Model 72-05) and it really makes it easy to change the %charge to the pack. No tweaking of resistance pots, all done digitally, you use the Grin Battery charge Simulator (http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/charge-simulator.html.

For example, for the pack Alex made for my Bomber, on the charge simulator page you choose, 72-05, Custom Battery, Samsung 30Q cells, 21S, 7P and pick the %charge, let's say 80%. This generates the charge profile curve which you can "Download. I'd pick a name easy to recognize like B-80%. Once you've got it downloaded the programming cable can be attached to the Satiator and the profile uploaded to your Satiator. I generated profiles for 100%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60% and 50% and then put them all in the Satiator. Easy to pick one for your riding style.

For the Bomber the on-the-bike charge ports pins are 1=DC- and 2=DC+, but out of the Satiator (XLR M) the pins are 1=DC+ and 2=DC-, so you can either make your own adapter cable XLR female into Satiator plug and XLR Male to plug into bike or see if Grin has or can make you one.

If you ever wondered what happens if you put a Bomber charger into the Fighter charge port accidentally and turn it on (BOOOM ). The answer is nothing since the on-the-bike charge port pins for the Fighter are 1=DC- and 3=DC+. A different adapter cable is needed for Satiator charging of the Fighter (for the Fighter the 48-08 Satiator is the best choice to purchase)

Jim

[Cowardlyduck]

Awesome stuff Emmett. Glad your liking those batteries. I am too...managed to hit 88kph on my HS4080 now....insanely fast!

I would suggest upgrading those 14awg wires outside the axle. Through the axle, yeah you need to size down, but for the run from the axle to the controller, the bigger the better for those wires. Fat wires for that section performs a dual function of reducing electrical resistance and also more importantly it helps wick away the heat build up from inside the motor.
IMO 14awg is undersized for our motors anyway. It's a bit tricky to size wire for our 3 phase PWM motors as the flow is not continuous and we roll on/off the throttle, but as a rough guide read this:
http://rookiercflyer.com/understanding- ... ent-rating
For all my motors I now use 8awg from just outside the axle, and 14awg through the axle.

Cheers

[Rix]

"Emmett"]Before and after photos.

Before: Fighter controller, VRM-021 tyre, H4040 motor (yes it really is), stock 59V battery, 100ml caster oil in the hub, Tubliss system. My custom shock and forks. Very good, but it got a lot better ...


After: Bomber controller (no DC-1 restriction), SR241 tyre, Tubliss, short 140mm cranks, sealed CrMo freewheel sprocket, 18S2P LiPo batteries (75V charged, 150% range and lighter (thanks CD)). Hubsink. Axle clamp glued to the axle. All hub wires routed on the top of the swingarm. Fine strand flexible and durable 14 AWG phase wires with thick silicone insulation.


This latest rear wheel and tyre setup is so much better. Superior grip. It grabs the ground and it quite gentle to trails. Way better rim protection from direct and side impacts. Running 15 PSI now and less rim hits than with 18PSI and the older smaller tyre. It weighs a bit more. Forget how much. But the ride quality and performance is way better. Love it.[/q

Hell of a write up Emmett. Glad you are happy with your mods. That 4040 with the 18S will scoot right along up to about 30-33MPH I imagine. When are you going to get into making some vids?[/q]

+1 from me. Good work. Sounds like we ought to line up a ride and I'll bring some cameras..I've hit similar heat here on Central Coast, but the great thing about the eBike is that your exertion level is lower than normal pedalling, if you're prepared to use the throttle on a hot today for the sake of a little personal comfort.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPW-atPhCei ... ughingmind

I am liking where this is going, it keeps getting better and better.

[Rix]

BTW, I am wondering if the moderators would be upset if I bump this thread over the next 4 pages so I can be the first on page 600

[Rix]

bump......see, starting already

[st35326]

Hey guys waned to post about a fix I had for stripped axle threads. Contacted Stealth to try and get a new axle or a recommendation for how to service the bike. Stealth instructed I contact the local authorized Stealth dealer (Bike Craze, Anaheim CA). Upon calling them I got nothing, they gave me phone numbers for a "technician" who never seemed to answer. So..

I decided to fix it myself. I fired up the TIG welder and proceeded to lay new beads of metal into all the stripped out threads being careful to control my heating (especially on the harness side).

[st35326]

Then I built a base from wood to hold the wheel in place with a wrench on the bottom to keep the axle from spinning

[st35326]

Then the task of cutting new threads was undertaken on both ends of the axle. I figured I may as well do both. It turned out great and I am bale to torque down on the axle nuts again.

It took a day of welding and a day of cutting. I went really slow and proceeded with caution during the cutting phase using Harbour Freight Titanium Nitride tap and die set.

In the end this fix didn't really cost me anything other than my time. Axles with huge amounts of copper around them make great heat sinks for welding

[Cowardlyduck]

Great stuff st35326!
The other way to tackle this is to downsize the threads. I did that on my 1/2" HS4080 axle taking it down to M12 and so far it's been fine.

The other part to this is to get some of my replacement torque blocks to prevent it happening again.
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=86054#p1258704

Cheers