E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Cowardlyduck » Aug 16 2015 6:17pm

Samd wrote:Cd you've dropped 15% from your stator width and torque will be a similar drop.
Torque is proportional to stator width, assuming they are using the same parameters for copper fill and neodymium grade.
You can can feed it a bit more juice to compensate. You'll have to.
Net nett you'll be about the same kwh per km, just a less responsive motor.

Did it end up being $260? I thought that was the USD price, but thought postage was extra?
I get that.
As mentioned, I was never after better performance than the HS40, and don't mind a slight torque drop.
Sure, I'll have to feed it more power when and IF I want the same torque, but the point is I won't be doing that most of the time and therefore it WILL be more efficient overall. So no, it won't be the same kwh per km...it will be better, especially on long lower power rides.

It ended up being $260 including postage, but yeah that was US, so $352 AUS by today's rates (which are a fair bit worse than when I bought it). And yeah I'm aware that's about the same as a MXUS, however I got the custom axle shoulder width included in that price, so not a bad deal IMO.

Just because my circumstances and needs don't match the majority of others here doesn't mean I've made the wrong motor choice.

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Theodore Voltaire   1 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Aug 17 2015 9:57pm

Emmett wrote:
Theodore Voltaire wrote:Thanks efMX. That's what I do, except I always install the caliper last. Seems easier that way.
I'm not sure what you mean. Note that you don't have to remove the front brake caliper to remove and reinstall the front wheel. Loctite the caliper bolts in place when the caliper is aligned with the rotor. Then don't disturb it. Even when changing the pads, leave the caliper mount bolts alone.

With USD-8 fork:

- Get the upper fork caps level in the triples. Don't worry about the fully extended length of each fork being different. That's because the top-out stopper is in the left leg. All fine.
- When installing the front wheel, push the axle through from the brake side first, then lift the right side lug a little so the axle pops through into position. The tighten the end cap bolts lightly, then the pinch bolts. No need to go real tight on anything. The axle or caps will never come loose. It's very important that the axle is lightly lubed before installation, so it sits square/true in the fork lugs.
- Release the air pressure out of the right (damper) leg if not riding for a week or more. That greatly reduces the chance of air leaking past the piston seal into the the damper oil. I used a dremel grinder to make more clearance around the schrader valve for easy air filling.
- check that the bushing caps are tight on the bottom of each gold alum upper tube. DNM didn't do mine up very tight at the factory.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Aug 17 2015 10:00pm

Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Emmett wrote:
Theodore Voltaire wrote:Thanks efMX. That's what I do, except I always install the caliper last. Seems easier that way.
I'm not sure what you mean. Note that you don't have to remove the front brake caliper to remove and reinstall the front wheel. Loctite the caliper bolts in place when the caliper is aligned with the rotor. Then don't disturb it. Even when changing the pads, leave the caliper mount bolts alone.

With USD-8 fork:

- Get the upper fork caps level in the triples. Don't worry about the fully extended length of each fork being different. That's because the top-out stopper is in the left leg. All fine.
- When installing the front wheel, push the axle through from the brake side first, then lift the right side lug a little so the axle pops through into position. The tighten the end cap bolts lightly, then the pinch bolts. No need to go real tight on anything. The axle or caps will never come loose. It's very important that the axle is lightly lubed before installation, so it sits square/true in the fork lugs.
- Release the air pressure out of the right (damper) leg if not riding for a week or more. That greatly reduces the chance of air leaking past the piston seal into the the damper oil. I used a dremel grinder to make more clearance around the schrader valve for easy air filling.
- check that the bushing caps are tight on the bottom of each gold alum upper tube. DNM didn't do mine up very tight at the factory.
Thanks Emmett, much appreciated.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Aug 17 2015 10:16pm

I got to tell you guys about something that's bugging me now about my bike. It's not really my bikes fault, it's this other bike I bought. A cheap electric fat bike. It's not compatible to a Stealth in any way except one, but in that one tiny way it beats the crap out of my Stealth. Now every time I look at my Stealth, I'm thinking, how can I get this for my bike, except in 24" ?

In this case the rim is 26" x 3" inside width. The tire is a 26 x 2.5 Hook Worm. the actual tire width mounted is 3.3" I'd like the same thing except with a 24" rim, and tire.

It looks like a tire such as this would fit in the swing arm, but the forks would be a problem. Maybe the newer forks are wider then 3.3" ?

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Theodore Voltaire   1 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Aug 17 2015 11:20pm

Does anyone know if the new B52 Bomber's have a lighting wire like the one coming out of the CAv3 ?

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stritzky   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by stritzky » Aug 18 2015 1:10am

Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.

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remf   10 kW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by remf » Aug 18 2015 5:30am

stritzky wrote:Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.
A Hall sensor tester is the easiest way, not exactly sure where I got mine...it was a while ago.
Hall tester.jpg
Without one of these, you'll need a multimeter and do it like this:

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSen ... gFinal.pdf

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efMX Trials Electric Freeride   100 kW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by efMX Trials Electric Freeride » Aug 18 2015 11:37am

Emmett,

thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..
Emmett wrote: .. Note that you don't have to remove the front brake caliper to remove and reinstall the front wheel. Loctite the caliper bolts in place when the caliper is aligned with the rotor. Then don't disturb it. Even when changing the pads, leave the caliper mount bolts alone.

With USD-8 fork:

- Get the upper fork caps level in the triples. Don't worry about the fully extended length of each fork being different. That's because the top-out stopper is in the left leg. All fine.
- When installing the front wheel, push the axle through from the brake side first, then lift the right side lug a little so the axle pops through into position. The tighten the end cap bolts lightly, then the pinch bolts. No need to go real tight on anything. The axle or caps will never come loose. It's very important that the axle is lightly lubed before installation, so it sits square/true in the fork lugs.
- Release the air pressure out of the right (damper) leg if not riding for a week or more. That greatly reduces the chance of air leaking past the piston seal into the the damper oil. I used a dremel grinder to make more clearance around the schrader valve for easy air filling.

- check that the bushing caps are tight on the bottom of each gold alum upper tube. DNM didn't do mine up very tight at the factory.
some ride & sk8 videos:
metacafe.com/channels/NATAS666DAMIEN
http://www.youtube.com/natas666damien
i have nothing for sale.. :)

Emmett   1 kW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Emmett » Aug 18 2015 3:09pm

efMX Trials Electric Freeride wrote:Emmett,

thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..
No probs. Some loctite will work if the threads are oil free. But don't lock the treads too much else you might never get them undone when you need to disassemble either leg. I'm a big fan of loctite but didn't use any in this case. I just did them up real tight by hand using a grippy rubber glove.

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DunkenKBliths   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by DunkenKBliths » Aug 19 2015 2:04am

stritzky wrote:Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.
What leads you to this conclusion....

I ask as I finally got on my bike after a crazy "full throttle" stuck on incident in the wet !

I just tried the bike again tonight and works fine...but then suddenly I had a thumping effect from the rear wheel...which lead me to think perhaps I have a failing sensor as well....there are three of them righ, so if one goes there would be a thumping effect from the wheel rotating but not getting any "current" at one of the 3 cycle ?

Any Ideas ?

Dunk
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kiwiev   10 kW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by kiwiev » Aug 19 2015 2:51am

Emmett wrote:
efMX Trials Electric Freeride wrote:Emmett,

thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..
No probs. Some loctite will work if the threads are oil free. But don't lock the treads too much else you might never get them undone when you need to disassemble either leg. I'm a big fan of loctite but didn't use any in this case. I just did them up real tight by hand using a grippy rubber glove.

Emmett

Most loctite will let go with hot water poured over the part or a hot air gun.

Cheers Kiwi

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stritzky   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by stritzky » Aug 19 2015 4:05am

Thanks much appreciated.
remf wrote:
stritzky wrote:Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.
A Hall sensor tester is the easiest way, not exactly sure where I got mine...it was a while ago.
Hall tester.jpg
Without one of these, you'll need a multimeter and do it like this:

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSen ... gFinal.pdf

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stritzky   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by stritzky » Aug 19 2015 4:11am

Well this is the second time i have experienced this. In 3 years. The wheel spins freely, but it runs extremely jaggedly when you apply the throttle . Almost like you have a REALLY bad ball bearing. Only much worse. That leads me to think it's just one Hall sensor thats broken or burnt out. If 2 ore more goes as is what happed to me the last time. The wheel won't spin under throttle at all. It just makes a small jump and then stops mediately. Yes there are 3 of them type Honeywell SS411A for the Stealth Bomber.
DunkenKBliths wrote:
stritzky wrote:Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.
What leads you to this conclusion....

I ask as I finally got on my bike after a crazy "full throttle" stuck on incident in the wet !

I just tried the bike again tonight and works fine...but then suddenly I had a thumping effect from the rear wheel...which lead me to think perhaps I have a failing sensor as well....there are three of them righ, so if one goes there would be a thumping effect from the wheel rotating but not getting any "current" at one of the 3 cycle ?

Any Ideas ?

Dunk
Last edited by stritzky on Aug 19 2015 4:23am, edited 2 times in total.

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Allex   1 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Allex » Aug 19 2015 4:16am

Very common tester:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... duct_id=87

TV, running that fat tire at 80km/h will ruin your efficiency and oh, if you run into a pothole at same speed with that rim, you are probably toast

Theodore Voltaire   1 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Aug 19 2015 8:53am

Allex wrote:Very common tester:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... duct_id=87

TV, running that fat tire at 80km/h will ruin your efficiency and oh, if you run into a pothole at same speed with that rim, you are probably toast
Alex, that tire is a Hook Worm. At 35 psi the rolling resistance is less than a stock Bomber tire, and only about as wide. I found a 24 x 3 double wall rim, but they're out of stock right now. I'm waiting for them to contact me when they get more.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by stritzky » Aug 19 2015 4:21pm

I have tried searching but no luck. What is the new functioning address for Stealth Technical Support ?

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by DunkenKBliths » Aug 19 2015 5:13pm

I am going to take the wheel off at the weekend and see if I can get the cover off on the Brake side..(as I don't think) there's any special tools required to get that off...hopefully they are visible from that side !!!

I'm hoping its just a loose one...as its intermittent !!! - not sure this gives the "FULL ON THROTTLE" issue I experienced though !
stritzky wrote:I have tried searching but no luck. What is the new functioning address for Stealth Technical Support ?
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Rix   100 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Rix » Aug 19 2015 7:25pm

stritzky wrote:I have tried searching but no luck. What is the new functioning address for Stealth Technical Support ?
+

tech@stealthelectricbikes.com

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QMS   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by QMS » Aug 19 2015 7:26pm

Quigley Motorsport would like to extend its gratitude to everybody that has past on their concerns regarding our stolen demo B52 (vin #658). Our demo ride was extensively customized and hopefully this will make it obvious to all our clients and friends in the Stealth world. This theft has managed to make the local paper along with an active police investigation and we are a little bit hopeful of its recovery in some shape or form. At the risk of saturating, here is another photo if anyone missed our previous post. Again thanks to everyone.
Image
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ImageImage

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Ottodog » Aug 20 2015 1:26am

I'm curious about the gearbox on the B52's. How fast can you get up to before you run out of Pedal power? Can you still pedal at fairly high speeds, or do they spin out pretty quickly?

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Jimboyr6 » Aug 20 2015 1:51am

I find that pedaling doesn't add nothing really unless u have maybe road tyres with high pressure,
Theres to much drag and weight
I find around 40mph is a good pedaling speed but u can go all out at 50 but u wont last long
Looks good to the coppers round my way so i just pedal
Stealth bomber owner 138 livin the dream

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Rix   100 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Rix » Aug 20 2015 2:41am

QMS wrote:Quigley Motorsport would like to extend its gratitude to everybody that has past on their concerns regarding our stolen demo B52 (vin #658). Our demo ride was extensively customized and hopefully this will make it obvious to all our clients and friends in the Stealth world. This theft has managed to make the local paper along with an active police investigation and we are a little bit hopeful of its recovery in some shape or form. At the risk of saturating, here is another photo if anyone missed our previous post. Again thanks to everyone.
.jpg[/img]
I sure hope it turns up. Whats the scene like for prosecuting suspects for high dollar property crimes in Australia? Are the prosecutors aggressive down there?

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remf   10 kW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by remf » Aug 20 2015 3:11am

Ottodog wrote:I'm curious about the gearbox on the B52's. How fast can you get up to before you run out of Pedal power? Can you still pedal at fairly high speeds, or do they spin out pretty quickly?
Can't speak about B52 - mine is more like a B17 in terms of age - but with the 5404 motor WOT in 9th gear, I can still input power through the cranks if I limit current. Or at full power, as Jimboyr6 says, up to around 40 mph. Above 40 mph, the pedals become adjustable foot pegs. That said, it may be that pedal input above 40 mph is possible with steeper gearing via a lower tooth count freewheel.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Aug 20 2015 8:59am

Ottodog wrote:I'm curious about the gearbox on the B52's. How fast can you get up to before you run out of Pedal power? Can you still pedal at fairly high speeds, or do they spin out pretty quickly?
At 50 mph the cadence is very high, but you can still keep up, and it does make a difference. You can always add about 3 mph to your top speed by pedaling, and at all speeds acceleration is faster.

Riding with my son with his Bomber next to mine, I can easily see the difference between pedaling, and not pedaling.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by fsmuggen » Aug 20 2015 10:18am

I have used the maxxis hookworm for 3500km on my fighter and it's great for street use. I will not go back to the crazybob again, they where to soft.
Think the spokes and rim is to weak for a high speed/power setup TV.
Into details: Still can't understand how I'm suppose to fit all theese cells in my fighter, feel I've done some wrong mesurements or wrong calculations..:P
samsung cellspack.jpg
samsung cellspack.jpg (84.08 KiB) Viewed 2285 times

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