The new F37s are quite a bit more refined then the one in my videos. Ironically, my F37 came with a RST R-One fork. It was awesome! I know RSTs have a bad rep, as the RST on my Bomber sucked bad. But the RST on my Fighter was awesome right up until I blew a seal and couldn't get any replacement parts for it. Thats when I went to the MRP Grove 180 which was one of the best forks I have ever ran box stock. The DNM fork your Fighter will have is a really nice and plush fork. Smooth through the stroke, no stiction, and very tough. As far as your battery goes, there should be some kind of serial number on the heat shrink wrap, you can contact Luke at Stealthtech support and he will confirm the battery's status. I am certain its the proper battery as I have never heard of a case where Stealth sent out the wrong-incorrect battery for one of their bikes. When you get your bike in and the battery installed, power up the DC1 and toggle to the second screen through the menu button. Leave it there while you charge your battery. You will be able to watch your volts during charging. The high volt cutoff should trip between 58.7 to 58.8 volts. For what its worth, I never got to test ride any of my Stealth bikes, Bomber, Fighter, P7 before purchasing. No regrets. If you like Mountain biking and riding motorcycles offroad, you will love your Fighter. Make and post a vid and some pics when you get yours in. Look forward to hearing/seeing them.Mattof37 wrote: ↑Feb 01, 2018 11:40 amThanks for the reply and info rix, seen a lot of your videos on YouTube, tried to get as much info on the bikes as possible as there are no stockists of these bikes in the uk, so i've purchased the F37 without even riding one. Hope it goes as well as it seems in your vids.
I wonder if the battery labeling was for "shipping purposes"? Don't worry about power climbing hills, with pedal assist in low gear, you will run out of traction in the dirt before you stall it. Not sure if you seen this vid, but dad and I climbed about 1100 feet in about 1.5 miles.Mattof37 wrote: ↑Feb 01, 2018 1:41 pmThanks for the information, I've just tested the battery and it's showing 57.8 volts on the voltage tester so all Good, someone in Hong Kong must of labed it wrong.
Hopefully my bike will arrive on Tuesday .
The bike looks awesome bit of kit in stock form, the only thing I was concerned about was the power on acceleration and hills etc, from what I have seen on your videos it looks like it performs well just alot wetter and muddy in the uk compared to your area.
I used to ride motocross but changed to mountain bikes hopefully this is something inbetween.
I got a few on my Fighter:
Well thank you for the compliment.Mattof37 wrote: ↑Feb 02, 2018 5:31 amYes I've seen this video some great places you got over there, your videos are probably the main reason I decided to get the fighter as you show what the bike is capable of especially around salt lake I think it was it looked fast so you must of been moving some as videos always looks slower, most videos are about the bomber not many on the fighter .
So thanks for the videos
Under the DC1 adjust limits, there should be a option to select yes or no for "soft start" select no. That should wake it up a little.Mattof37 wrote: ↑Feb 07, 2018 1:18 pmHi,
My Stealth fighter arrived yesterday took it out for my first ride today felt good but seemed to be lacking power on take off almost sluggish up to around 10mph then it seems to pick up pace quickly, is this how they are or do they just take a few cycles of charges to get the best out of them?
I've got it in competition mode on fast start and maximum watts 3700w battery shows 58v.
Also running it free wheel on a the stand it will show 45mph should this be more as there is no resistance?
I have no idea.Mattof37 wrote: ↑Feb 08, 2018 7:07 amThanks for the response. Took it for a good ride today everything was great until I was on my way home approximately 30% power remaining so I used the regain button which made a loud thud in the hub now the hub won't spin , if I turn it off the on again it gets to spin thus then Nothing?? Greatful if anyone got any ideas on this ?
Are you saying your rear hub locked up completely and still is mechanically jammed? Or do you mean there is now no power/drive from it?Mattof37 wrote: ↑Feb 08, 2018 7:07 amThanks for the response. Took it for a good ride today everything was great until I was on my way home approximately 30% power remaining so I used the regain button which made a loud thud in the hub now the hub won't spin , if I turn it off the on again it gets to spin thus then Nothing?? Greatful if anyone got any ideas on this ?
Glad you like it. The SR241 is a great tire, I keep trying other tires and always go back to them. It doesn't matter what size, 17-2.75, 17-3.00, 18-2.75, 18-3.00, and the 19-2.75, they are all the best tires I have ran for combo road and dirt performance on all my ebikes, except the P7, I am staying with MTB wheels and tires on it.Rix, thanks for the advice on the Shinko SR241 19" rear trials tire. I've used it heaps over lots of sandstone and crap with 6500W peak and it's still looking good. I've killed two Razorback fronts since I put the SR241 on. It's got Tubliss in it. Never had a flat yet using around 15PSI. It also sounds awesome when it breaks traction over rocks under power. It grabs nicely in sand and if I ride gently it's super gentle on the trails. Love it!
Regen is neat for prolonging brake pad life, but thats it. I read a story about a guy that used regen from the top of pikes peak all the way to the bottom, 19 miles I think it was, and he only put 100wh back into the battery, Bottom line is, electric motors don't make good generators, and conversely, alternators don't make good electric motors.the amount of energy you can regen is not worth it.
Great you found the problem! When I first started riding my Fighter a few years back I found that the hall sensors wire plug connector under the frame was a problem point. In fact having any motor phase or halls wires running under the frame is no good because sticks and stones frequently smash into that place a lot when riding off road bush trails. So I replaced the round DIN plug with a tough waterpoof plug (thanks Allex) and I route all my wires above the bottom bracket and along the top of the swingarm. Less failures points and I've never had a problem with controller to hub wires since.
Questions are fine. Shoot away. There are so many about these bikes.
Yes I added a 1mm breather hole near the chain sprocket. Only needed if you seal the hub.Mattof37 wrote: ↑Feb 14, 2018 4:20 amI take it your hub has breath holes in with regards to you saying sealing the hub beforehand? My hub does not have any breath holes in not sure if that is a good thing or not ?
Also spinning the rear wheel unloaded it Maxs out at 74kph (44mph) to be honest on videos I've seen they max out the to the speed limit 95kph unloaded, every setting is to the max output, also riding on a flat surface it struggles to hit 30mph im approximately 13 stone so not overly heavy?
Any ideas on what this could be??
Looks like you had a great ride , got alot of snow and ice here. How about making a video of a ride around livorno?