E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Show off your E-bike creation here.
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Rix   100 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Rix » Jul 27 2020 9:38pm

Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Jul 25 2020 11:57pm
Rix wrote:
Jul 25 2020 11:48pm
Roadrunner?
I'm thinking Egret, but some people think it's a Blue Heron
Shows what I know, which aint shit about birds.

1abv   10 kW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by 1abv » Jul 28 2020 1:28pm

Battery upgrade will probably be the easiest. Like rix said that will give you range. A motor upgrade you’ll have to either relace it yourself or get it relaced. Both will require minor setting adjustments to your dc1
If you go for a bigger heavier motor it will negatively affect Suspension but get you more power.

Longshot   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 28 2020 1:50pm

Hi All, I'm searching the board on how to replace the Vboxx bearings that the swingarm bolts to. I've seen some videos and topics but I don't want to disassemble the Vboxx. I just want to do the bearings. Is it possible without removing the covers? I don't want to misalign the gears so I haven't tried.

Longshot   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 28 2020 3:17pm

Ok, it looks like I use BBT-22 to remove the bottom bracket thingies to get to the bearings...

Theodore Voltaire   10 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Jul 29 2020 1:38pm

Longshot wrote:
Jul 28 2020 1:50pm
Hi All, I'm searching the board on how to replace the Vboxx bearings that the swingarm bolts to. I've seen some videos and topics but I don't want to disassemble the Vboxx. I just want to do the bearings. Is it possible without removing the covers? I don't want to misalign the gears so I haven't tried.
I replaced my Swing arm bearings a few years ago. You can do it without removing the Vboxx. Just be careful on the right side not to disturb the output shaft. It's a pretty easy job

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 29 2020 2:22pm

May I ask what you used to pull the bearings off? Do I need a special puller or do they come off by hand? My right side bearing is totally gone. The left side is like gravel. I got some shielded and sealed bearings I thought might work better to keep water out. I think I made the chain too tight trying to get rid of it's slapping noises. I have less than 1k miles on the bike. The star shaped sprocket holder has some markings from hitting the splines on the bottom bracket screw that holds the bearing. It seems like it should be ok for a while longer, I hope...

Theodore Voltaire   10 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Jul 29 2020 2:28pm

Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Jul 29 2020 1:38pm
Longshot wrote:
Jul 28 2020 1:50pm
Hi All, I'm searching the board on how to replace the Vboxx bearings that the swingarm bolts to. I've seen some videos and topics but I don't want to disassemble the Vboxx. I just want to do the bearings. Is it possible without removing the covers? I don't want to misalign the gears so I haven't tried.
I replaced my Swing arm bearings a few years ago. You can do it without removing the Vboxx. Just be careful on the right side not to disturb the output shaft. It's a pretty easy job
I wrote about here it in Aug 2014. Here's some information from got back then.

"At the bearing houses, I just ask for 6808-2rs. They knew right away what I was talking about. The first place I called sold u.s. made SKF for $140 a piece, and they didn't have any in stock. The second place I called had 1 NSK bearing for $80 something each, but would have to order the second. The third place had nondescript Chinese bearings in stock for $16 each plus tax so that's what I ended up with. They told me these were good bearings that they haven't had much trouble with.

One thing you have to understand about bearings is no matter who makes them, they can come in different qualities. A good local bearing house will only try to sell bearings that are high quality, because if their bearings are crap they'll have to hear about it from angry customers. It's hard to say how well the Chinese ones I bought will hold up. but as easy as they are to replace I'm not that wild about paying $100 a bearing. There's a chance a $16 Chinese bearing will be better quality then a $5 Chinese bearing. There's probably more than 100 factory's in China that make bearings, and some of them will be better than others. All I can hope for is the ones I bought came from a good part of China. Now that I know how easy they are to change I'm not as concerned about them."

Park makes the bottom bracket tool you need. It's BBT-22. It fits common European style, sealed bottom bracket cartages. I think it's great that VBoxx uses the same tool for what is essentially a Bomber bottom bracket."

"The bearing is a 6808-2RS.
Tighten the swing arm pivot bolts to 10Nm with some loctite.
When you remove the part on the vboxx that holds the sprocket be very careful not to move the shaft going into the box. If you move it from side to side you may put the shifting mechanism out of alignment. The only fix for this according to Dlogic is to pull the whole box apart and realign everything. You don't want this!
Goodluck."

"A good mechanic could change these bearing at a race track in 5 minutes."

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Theodore Voltaire   10 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Jul 29 2020 2:31pm

Honestly I don't remember needing the bottom bracket tool, but it's probably obvious why you need it when you get to that point.

Longshot   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 29 2020 2:58pm

Yes, I've found your thread very helpful. I've been over it several times in the last few days. I'm sure I'll figure the rest out. Thank you, sir!

Theodore Voltaire   10 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Jul 29 2020 3:03pm

For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.

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Rix   100 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Rix » Jul 29 2020 4:19pm

Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Jul 29 2020 3:03pm
For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.
Thousands of easy road miles :lol: :?

Longshot   100 W

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 29 2020 5:01pm

Its fixed. Bearings slid off by hand. Thanks y'all!

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 29 2020 5:32pm

Ok, one more question about the swingarm clamps that go around the bearings. Should I tighten one bolt on each side first so that the mating surfaces touch or tighten all bolts evenly which would give me a gap at each bolt? Usually, I clamp one side all the way down, like on a handlebar clamp, and then the other bolt so one side has no gap...

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 29 2020 6:12pm

I decided to check the motor. I had put some internet Ferrofluid in the motor before Statorfluid came out. It's dried out and clumpy. It also smells strongly of chemicals. Oddly, a triangular shaped piece broke off of one of my magnets and has been dragging on the stator. I pulled the broken trangular magnet piece out and I'm thinking about what I should do with this. I've been fixing my other while while I ride my old Bomber so I want to get it working ASAP without much hassle. Should I try to clean up the old Ferrofluid and then add Statorade? I want this to last for the rest of the summer.

1abv   10 kW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by 1abv » Jul 29 2020 10:04pm

Longshot wrote:
Jul 29 2020 5:32pm
Ok, one more question about the swingarm clamps that go around the bearings. Should I tighten one bolt on each side first so that the mating surfaces touch or tighten all bolts evenly which would give me a gap at each bolt? Usually, I clamp one side all the way down, like on a handlebar clamp, and then the other bolt so one side has no gap...
Tighten both evenly. You can squeeze one section of the bearing If you overtighten or tighten one bolt more than the other.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by 1abv » Jul 29 2020 10:07pm

Longshot wrote:
Jul 29 2020 6:12pm
I decided to check the motor. I had put some internet Ferrofluid in the motor before Statorfluid came out. It's dried out and clumpy. It also smells strongly of chemicals. Oddly, a triangular shaped piece broke off of one of my magnets and has been dragging on the stator. I pulled the broken trangular magnet piece out and I'm thinking about what I should do with this. I've been fixing my other while while I ride my old Bomber so I want to get it working ASAP without much hassle. Should I try to clean up the old Ferrofluid and then add Statorade? I want this to last for the rest of the summer.
Yes clean and then add. Sounds like the piece your missing isn’t affecting performance so I wouldn’t worry about it

Theodore Voltaire   10 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Jul 30 2020 12:31am

Rix wrote:
Jul 29 2020 4:19pm
Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Jul 29 2020 3:03pm
For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.
Thousands of easy road miles :lol: :?
The stock bearings didn't seem to think so. :(

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Rix   100 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Rix » Jul 30 2020 9:33am

Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Jul 30 2020 12:31am
Rix wrote:
Jul 29 2020 4:19pm
Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Jul 29 2020 3:03pm
For what it's worth, the $16 bearings I bought are still just fine after thousands of miles.
Thousands of easy road miles :lol: :?
The stock bearings didn't seem to think so. :(
Which is weird. I still have the stock bearing on my Bomber, 16000 miles of road and dirt road, probably 2/3 of the mileage is dirt. The bearings still look great and don't have any surface race play.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 30 2020 10:22am

I think my magnets are going to come off soon. I think I'll try to get an H55100. Am I looking for an H55 with 137mm dropouts or 162mm? My bomber dropouts are 162mm but will the 162mm fit? I need the 137, right?

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Longshot » Jul 30 2020 10:28am

Will this missing piece affect anything until I get a new motor? The corner of the magnet was flipping up and grinding against the stator. The particles combined with the Ferrofluid and turned to clumps. Its probably the reason the magnets are still attached
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Theodore Voltaire   10 MW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Theodore Voltaire » Jul 30 2020 1:39pm

Rix wrote:
Jul 30 2020 9:33am

Which is weird. I still have the stock bearing on my Bomber, 16000 miles of road and dirt road, probably 2/3 of the mileage is dirt. The bearings still look great and don't have any surface race play.
Yeah, I think we can assume it was just a defective bearing since it happened early on, and especially considering swing arm bearing failure doesn't seem to be a thing with Bombers ridden under a lot more demanding conditions than my bike sees.

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Rix   100 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Rix » Jul 30 2020 5:02pm

Longshot wrote:
Jul 30 2020 10:28am
Will this missing piece affect anything until I get a new motor? The corner of the magnet was flipping up and grinding against the stator. The particles combined with the Ferrofluid and turned to clumps. Its probably the reason the magnets are still attached
You may want to number the magnets and carefully remove them and consider re-gluing with something strong like JB weld or a high strength epoxy. The damaged magnet isn't a problem, but it will be a pain to reinstall because of the apposing polarity.

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Rix   100 GW

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by Rix » Jul 30 2020 5:03pm

Theodore Voltaire wrote:
Jul 30 2020 1:39pm
Rix wrote:
Jul 30 2020 9:33am

Which is weird. I still have the stock bearing on my Bomber, 16000 miles of road and dirt road, probably 2/3 of the mileage is dirt. The bearings still look great and don't have any surface race play.
Yeah, I think we can assume it was just a defective bearing since it happened early on, and especially considering swing arm bearing failure doesn't seem to be a thing with Bombers ridden under a lot more demanding conditions than my bike sees.
Yah, must have been a fluke thing with yours.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by KarlJ » Jul 31 2020 3:33am

Longshot wrote:
Jul 30 2020 10:22am
I think my magnets are going to come off soon. I think I'll try to get an H55100. Am I looking for an H55 with 137mm dropouts or 162mm? My bomber dropouts are 162mm but will the 162mm fit? I need the 137, right?
The current spec bomber is a UFO 5565 and good for about 85km/hr on the flat with 22S, The 5404 it came with good for an extra 10km/hr. On 20S probably 10km/hr slower, on the stock lifepo4 battery only see 5000W and more often than not 4200W.
With the 22S setup i did see a peak of 6200W but now my battery has 100cycles or so its around 6000W. I went for the LGMJ1 3500mAH cells in 22S10P and I should have gone 12P. I think i can make 22S13P fit, but the BMS would be a plug in item mounted with double sided tape or similar elsewhere in the frame space.

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Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Post by KarlJ » Jul 31 2020 3:47am

selvator wrote:
Jul 27 2020 8:43pm
So can I upgrade the battery and that's it? Do I need a new controller? I don't know where to start.

To summarize, I want more low end power, would be ok sacrificing top end speed, want to go farther on a charge and want it to not shit the bed. Fast, Cheap, Reliable... I know I only get two so I'll choose fast and reliable if given the choice.

Thank you!
Start with the battery - its an expensive and time consuming exercise, build photos of some excellent options are here on this thread. Personally I think 22S13P will fit (6 cells may need to sit ontop) but many controllers are tapped out at 90V and you should limit the charge to this anyway IMHO as you can potentially increase the pack life alot.

If building your own (recommended) you can spot weld or use solar panel tinned copper bus tape which is ~2.5x more conductive than nickel which is more commonly used and you can use a big iron an simply solder them. (people say you shouldnt but my pack came out > than its nominal capacity anyway and ~60+deg battery temps after ride/charge/ride cycle are flogging the ^%&$ out of them anyway.

Take the max continuous ratings with a grain of salt as >70% of that rating and they get HOT FAST = cant be good so aim for this if you want to pull big grunt you need 15-20A rated continuous cells and 12P giving you a realistic 100-120A continuous discharge rate . I run mine at max 80A which is more like 65-70A at full throttle after it settles. At this I get ~30decC temp rise over the course of a discharge. If I charge at 0.5C I get a 8-9 deg temp rise from 10% to 90%.

Charge the day before you ride, allow the battery to rest 60mins at end of ride before charging it again. and dont think for a second that charge/ride/charge/ride will not cause damaging cell temps in the 60-80deg range. (at least on my pack)

TRY and not flatten the bike to BMS cutout on every ride and leave say 5kms range left when you get home. I get 60kms quite reliably when going hard and i get right out of the power when I get down to 70V (unloaded) and creep home if thats the case.

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