Re: E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
Posted: Aug 01 2020 9:15am
Electric Vehicle and Technology Forums
@Selvator, this is excellent advice. Karl went into alot more detail than I did.KarlJ wrote: ↑Jul 31 2020 3:47amStart with the battery - its an expensive and time consuming exercise, build photos of some excellent options are here on this thread. Personally I think 22S13P will fit (6 cells may need to sit ontop) but many controllers are tapped out at 90V and you should limit the charge to this anyway IMHO as you can potentially increase the pack life alot.selvator wrote: ↑Jul 27 2020 8:43pmSo can I upgrade the battery and that's it? Do I need a new controller? I don't know where to start.
To summarize, I want more low end power, would be ok sacrificing top end speed, want to go farther on a charge and want it to not shit the bed. Fast, Cheap, Reliable... I know I only get two so I'll choose fast and reliable if given the choice.
If building your own (recommended) you can spot weld or use solar panel tinned copper bus tape which is ~2.5x more conductive than nickel which is more commonly used and you can use a big iron an simply solder them. (people say you shouldnt but my pack came out > than its nominal capacity anyway and ~60+deg battery temps after ride/charge/ride cycle are flogging the ^%&$ out of them anyway.
Take the max continuous ratings with a grain of salt as >70% of that rating and they get HOT FAST = cant be good so aim for this if you want to pull big grunt you need 15-20A rated continuous cells and 12P giving you a realistic 100-120A continuous discharge rate . I run mine at max 80A which is more like 65-70A at full throttle after it settles. At this I get ~30decC temp rise over the course of a discharge. If I charge at 0.5C I get a 8-9 deg temp rise from 10% to 90%.
Charge the day before you ride, allow the battery to rest 60mins at end of ride before charging it again. and dont think for a second that charge/ride/charge/ride will not cause damaging cell temps in the 60-80deg range. (at least on my pack)
TRY and not flatten the bike to BMS cutout on every ride and leave say 5kms range left when you get home. I get 60kms quite reliably when going hard and i get right out of the power when I get down to 70V (unloaded) and creep home if thats the case.
I have tried the 5580 but no the 5565, the 5580 has noticeably more thrust over the older 5403 motor, so yah the 5565 may have more yet at the price of less top speed. Here is a pic of of my buddies Bomber with the new 5580 on it.1abv wrote: ↑Aug 03 2020 11:44amRix,
Are you running the 5565 UFO motor? Im still on the OG motor on my bike. I know you have run a ton of motors and wanted to see what you think. I've read that its slower but has more torque (perfect for me), is a bit louder and has a new hall-sensor harness which means I would need to either run an adapter or rewire the controller with to the new plug since im running the CAV3.
I wanted specifically to know a couple of things..
-how does it deal with heat compared to the OG motor? I do a crap load of really long hill climbs that eventually get my motor pretty hot. even with statoraide and hubsinks.
-Can you feel a difference in suspension / handling? (reading that its quite a bit lighter)
-Where did you get yours from? Directly from stealth?
Thanks in advance! and keep the pics coming!!
No, not really, yah its 6-7 pounds less of suspended mass, but because the weight is so low, I can't tell. And because of where the weight is, to get these bikes to handle good, the rebound needs to be slowed down alot more than if it I was setting up a regular bike, or dirtbike for that matter. The 55xx accelerates better than the 54xx given same amps volts input is the noticeable difference.
Six thousand dollars for a electric motor? It better have gold windings
Ok so typing..... yeahhh...Theodore Voltaire wrote: ↑Aug 06 2020 8:32pmSix thousand dollars for a electric motor? It better have gold windings
Not anymore, Mike from Electric Rider shut down business a few years back, and now Electroride has picked up their line. I had a bad experience with Electroride many years ago, I ended up driving from Fallon to Palo Alto to recover the motors and rims I had shipped there. I had talked to the owner by phone, he was in crisis, but tried to do right by me after I had already retrieved my motors. This was back in 2012, maybe Electroride is under new management/ownership now. They don't have the HS55xx or UFO55xx in their inventory, but because of the volume they do, they could get motor in on one of their sea freight shipments, but they probably only order 2-3 times a year and in volumes of 100-200 units per order. Anyway, if you contact Electroride and come up with an arrangement, its at your own risk, I think you would be okay now as it looks like they have grown and expanded, but its not my money were talking about here. .
Yah, the 5580 will be better than the 5403, maybe a few MPH slower, but a bit more accleration/thrust. I ran my Bomber with the stock controller, it was good for about 70 amps DC, so maybe 175-180 phase. I'm not sure what the programmed ratio is from the factory. 2.5:1 is your typical Phase to DC amps ratio.
So Ive bent these a few times. I wound up buying a new set measuring them and bending the old ones back to the correct position. They work fine. I've actually had to bend the same ones more than once but if your careful about your measurements they will bend and be aligned. IF you dont want to do that and have some bent ones you want to get rid of, I know a guyzedifier wrote: ↑Aug 09 2020 10:36pmI've ruined three crank arms in three months for my Stealth Bomber. It appears SR Suntour no longer supports the vboxx, and replacement crank arms can only be sourced through Stealth. Stealth sells the arms for a reasonable price, but it's insane to pay $45 (usd) just for shipping every time I need a set. Do you know if there is any alternative? Any other place we can order from, or any other part that can be used? I'm also getting really frustrated with bending these things, and I'm about ready to have a brand new set 3d scanned, and then order up a batch of CNC'd billet cranks arms that can actually stand up to the abuse of such a heavy bike.
1abv, could you describe the method you use to straighten them? I have 2 left side arms that are slightly bent.1abv wrote: ↑Aug 10 2020 12:04am
So Ive bent these a few times. I wound up buying a new set measuring them and bending the old ones back to the correct position. They work fine. I've actually had to bend the same ones more than once but if your careful about your measurements they will bend and be aligned. IF you dont want to do that and have some bent ones you want to get rid of, I know a guy
its really easy to do this the most important measurement is the one at the end of the crank. I usually a length of pipe and slide it over the crank arm to get more purchase.1abv wrote: ↑Oct 17 2014 2:24amMade a couple of tools.. Pretty basic but useful thought I would share.
Since the v boxx cranks like to bend I made a board that has measurements on it at specific distances so when I bend the cranks back that would be in spec.
Bomber board with measurements.
I clamp a piece of square tubing and back the crank up against it, and now I can use it to measure how bent my cranks are and where they are bent.
finally I get a ruler or tape measure and line it up to the marks.
I put the cranks in a padded vice, wrap them in cloth and bend em back in shape.
This is version one of the board but its been real helpful. Hope it helps....
Bomber strut. I used this when I removed the rear shock to hold up the bike. pretty basic but here you go..