dogman wrote:I didn't like much the extra length of your first try, where you connected the head tube of one frame to the seat tube of the front frame.
Love the big shock! I may have to get an air shock on mine if I really load it up. For street though, 1 inch of travel will be enough to prevent broke spokes.
I dorked around with it some more last night, and found I will need to rotate the whole rear frame down some, possibly a lot.
What I really dug about this one, was the way the bottom bracket fits right into the rear dropouts nearly perfect. With some grinding, I could even bolt on.
I am planning though, to weld it. I'll have nice fat thick steel even I should be able to weld. Should be very strong.
dogman wrote:Made some progress today. Constant changes, mostly to the forks end. Ended up with this. Which seems to ride beautifully. Excellent at low speed anyway.
Heres the bb weld, which needs grinding and more welding to finish. Man, I just weld horrible, but it's holding for now. At the other end near the seat, it's just tacked with three small welds. Once satisfied with the geometry, I'll add angle iorn and make it super solid.
I was sure I was going to have a big problem with the chain line, but as you put pedal pressure on, the chain lifts, and just clears the rear bottom bracket even when using the small front chainring. Seems to need no additional sprocket.
This one has a 1250 pound spring.
if you turned the handle bar and stem around and moved the seat back and down on top of the plywood, it might ride even better
dogman wrote:Not sure what you mean Gordo. This bike has all the joints that hold it together in compression. I could sit on it before I welded it. It could be ridable with all the welds broken. Nevertheless, I plan to do what you are saying today, Adding some steel to solidly connect the Y frame to the seatpost tube, right where the stays come together. It should transfer some load directly to the seatpost tube, avoiding all the pressure being on the stays.
In the BB to dropout connection, it's the same forces as having a wheel there. Up below the seat, it wants to rotate down. That joint would get a pull on it if I get airborne.
If I did like pedal forward, a seat right on the front of the cargo beam would be easy. I did consider a bannana seat, that woud allow moving back a bit. I'm very comfy now as is though, with a straight up riding position from the bmx bars. Not sure yet what to bolt on for panniers. I'm considering carry on bags, backpacks, Ammo cans, 5 gallon buckets with screw lids, milk crates, etc. Idealy, some real hardshell motorcycle panniers but those would be pricy.
Cost of the bike just doubled. I had to buy a tandem length brake cable and some pads. Amazingly, Bell gear shift cable was just long enough to make it work, since my shifter is mounted a few inches further in on the bars.
Up to $35 on it now. I suppose at some point I'll want to put better tires on it, and then the cost will skyrocket to $100.
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