Thanks for the kind words, guys!
wildharemtbkr, than you so much, that sounds like the insight I needed. I'll go buy one a 3/32nd.
Snow, that is right, 24s, so 88.8v off the charger, and only 76-80v under load after the fluff charge burns off. I still have a lot to do before I can do a good video - correct sprocket, change the CA plug on my methods controller so I can use the V3, tune the suspension etc - but it will come.
As for the multiplier, this approach was brought to my attention only because John in CR posted the link several times, so thanks John, and thanks keefer for developing/sharing this knowledge:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 5&#p272438
The purpose in the eyes of eBike designers is quite simple... Although some hub motors are really torquey, most just arent... to that end, you need the most torque when launching from a dead stop and so...
An engineer decides what wattage and determines the motor's torque output based on 1355 / No Load KV * Amps... Then depending on the requirements, for instance a max load weight of 300 lbs the engineer needs to find a way to get that mass (the 300lbs of you bike batteries and motor) moving along quickly... though accelleration takes more power, it only needs that power for a short time... hence Block time is supposed to be the delay in seconds before the limiting kicks in and brings you back to the programmed primary current.
Another bit you may or may not have realized is the purpose of Phase Current and why it is different than Primary or Battery Current...
At lower speeds the controller can multiply the current at the cost of voltage which is only needed (the higher voltage) once the motor is trying to gain speed.... That's why people with 9C usually recommend 2.5 X the Primary Current for this setting and it's the current your phase windings are slammed with on startup... the block time allows for a momentary surge of Primary Current to enable the output which is current amplified (the FETs do this) which in a 26" DD 9x7 Rear (Loaded kV of 10.10 @ 48v - load rating 100KG / 220lbs) - these motors don't have enough torque at 45A to get you moving and thus reduce duty cycle and power handling of the FETs, phases and every other component... then when you approach speed... you will see your current taper down because "An object in motion stays in motion unless acted upon by an outside force".
By comparison - I have found that using Phase Current of lower multipliers of Primary Current like 1.5 X will result in higher top end speeds because the voltage sag is less in the current amplification process.
If your using geared hubs... these are the most fun, here I begin at 1:1 with block time at about 5 (I do run 69A limit on a 9FET shunt soldered and reprogrammed infineon with stock fets and caps) - I can't keep the nose down and my top speed reaches 30+ mph where as when I had the Phase Current at 2.5 the max speed was 27mph... Next I increased the multiplier until my top speed on a flat without wind dropped measurably... This gives me the absolute best combo of slamming accelleration, higher top speeds and better efficiency since the motor spends less time at low inefficient speeds.
The 54xx at 100a has way more launch torque than I need, so I don't need a "block time" period that ignores the limit on current, and instead of tuning it higher I'll leave it set at "1", wishing I could choose "0".
Since phase is restricted to the same 100a as the battery, and I have abundant torque, I have no need to change it to a multiple of battery current to apply more amps to get more torque - if anything, I might reduce amps for both settings. I have not tested to verify that this gives me a few more MPH on the top end, but I respect mwkeefer and I hope it does.
Enough torque ceased to be an issue for me several kw ago, in fact it became more of a driveability issue (its not nice to lend a wheelie machine to your freinds) so if anything I wanted to reduce torque. That is why I have been so critical of the 9kv CroMotor - it supplies way more of something I already have too much of. I could go to a longer wheelbase to keep the nose down, but at a tradeoff of balance, because you are now putting a heavy hub motor at the end of a really long lever in relation to the front wheel. Top speed, then, is the only frontier left for folks like me.
Here is a pic of the slot I cut in the removable dropouts, to make a path for the wire bundle coming out of the motor.